Hello agin all i havent posted on the board in a long time. how ever i said i was going to turbocharged a maxim and now i think i have the mijority of the parts i need and ideas in note books laying around to get the job done i just want to check with every one els to see if so far im on the right track

so here's a list of parts ill need and some i have let me know if u think im for getting somting or somting that might help.

Pressurized carbs
fule pump
fule presure regulator
upgraded generator stator
spare exaust manifold and pipeing
pluming to get the boosted air to a pressurized air box
new air intake tube for turbo and non pressurized air box
heat treated crankshaft
stronger pistion's
stronger connecting rods

outher things i have put into the equasion is the added heat im not looking at runn much more than 6lbs of boost on only at motor speeds over 2,800rpm's so i dont think that it will effect the cooling at idel that much or at slow speeds.

how ever i had also been advised to port out the exaust on the head and get a cam with more exaust lift or more duration to get the exaust out quicker and to run a more free flowing exaust.


Agin this is just the engine aspect of it brakes will be up graded as will rear syspension and rear axle gear and transmission parts and clutch.

just want to know if any budy els thinks im missing somting becides the cost aspect because i have done the math for it and it shouldent cost me more than $1,500.

why do it to this bike you might respond over buying somting faster i want somthing i built and can take to bike show's

so im open for more imput and critisum if that what u want to give me.

any one who wan's to see finished photos get back to me in 3 or 4 months as i'm picking up the bike and parts in the next 2 weekends

I'd love to see some pics, Even a 'play by play' of picsas your going would be great if your up to it

Good Luck

cool idea, I thought of it but that's as far as I got , love to see the step by step process, post lots of pics if you can.
A few questions though, (1)are you going to have an intercooler?, (2)do you know if you will have to lower your compression?, (3)what kind of turbo?,and (4) will you need to upgrade other ignition components (ie. coils, wires, plugs)

Hopes it works out and Good Luck!

to answer the first question low-1-5-0 if you ran an un intercooled turbo the air intake temp would be around 160-290F tempature or so i am told and have red to under stand so i think on an air cooled motor and for mpg rating i might want to run an intercooler so that is the rought i plan on going.

to answer the seckond one i wouldent haf to lower the compression if i wasent going to run much boost but then i still run the risk of breaking the crank so im going to heat treat the crankshaft and connecting rods and leave the compression the same and run lo-boost to start off with. all though i could lower the compression but i would loose power to so ill run the same compression and less boost.

for the third question i,m going to a junk yard finding any turbo off a motor and rebuilding it since i dont need to run much boost for the risk of it cracking the crankshaft

for the fourth question i wont need to upgrade any ignition components but i will be putting a m.s.d box on it (m.s.d=mutiple spark dristuribtor) if i can get it to work there not a easy thing to try to hook up for somting it's not ment for.

as for the photos yes i do plan on taking pictures of every part i add to make the turbo modifaction. my biggiest thing is i wont post any thing till i have finished so that i know it works (as in i know it will work but i dono if the cran and parts will stand up to it) then if it stands up to a around town ride and a 1,000 mile ride i will tare it apart and check the crank for stress ware marks and fractures.

then i would love if it holds up to post every thing with pics and how and why i did the steps i did.

i will get back when i start the project in the shop how ever i wont be starting the tare down and rebuild till the end of march i reading up on every thing i can before i start this so i can know if i should do somting and make sure im not missing any thing

sweet!!, thanks for the answers, seems you have a great plan in place!

You'll also need a way to retard the spark while under boost, or be using some really good fuel. W/o retarding the ignition timing, even 93 octane pump gas will be sketchy. Shorter valve timing will also help to get thing going before the turbo spools up.

Blown engines need less cam timing, not more. Adding duration will increase overlap, and all that pressurized fuel mixture will just go out the still-open exhaust as soon as the intake valve cracks open.

Your budget of $1500.00 is very optimistic.

bosozoku i am glad to have the input thanks could you give me some more knolage on the subject why would i need to retard the spark? for the shorter falve timing im kinda lost two. i do plan on porting the exaust and intake and running bigger valves but wont know how big till i tare the head off.

and a race engine builder that i know said to grind down the intake side of the cam to equal limits so that it dident over lap the exaust closing to much as to not throw out to much of the pressurized air fule mixture.

i think that's a cure for the same thing your talking about the cam timing he said i would loose power out of doing it but since it's being boosted all it would make me do is run more boost but it would be more efficent (i dono if i spelt that right)

he said that if it was a dual over head cam i could just retard the intake opening but then i run the risk of the intake not being closed when it ignites. he said i could retard the ignition to to fix that but then im not building the the compression that i could be to. so he said to get the mic out and grind away at the intake valve at the right spot.

so i think that is kinda the the same thing your talking about if not let me know. i would like as much input as i can get

also for the cam grinding will be done with sand paper and a mic i could do it on a lath but he said not much would need to be taken off and i would have to change the angle on the valve as well for the curve differance.

please do give me more info any thing will help

iwasatoad wrote:

also for the cam grinding will be done with sand paper and a mic i could do it on a lath but he said not much would need to be taken off and i would have to change the angle on the valve as well for the curve differance. please do give me more info any thing will help

After reading your ideas, I strongly suggest you not try this. Many of the things you have stated are very, very unwise, and will simply not work.

I'm not trying to rain on your parade, but you need to have a much better grasp of how an otto-cycle gasoline engine operates. Find someone with the knowledge and the patience it will take to show you the path to understanding.

Kevin Cameron has a book that will explain a lot of things far better than I can.

Just adding boost and hogging things out will only waste time and money, and you will ruin a lot of parts in the process.

To reiterate: what you say you are trying to do will not work in the manner you think.



The reason you need to retard the spark when under boost boost is that the denser charge in the combustion pocket will burn much more quickly than the unboosted conditions. The air and fuel molecules are packed more densely, so the combustion event propagates much more rapidly after ignition. Spark timing for amospheric induction pressures will promptly destroy parts when the turbo spools up and the boost arrives.

BTW- Yamaha upped the ante with their 650 turbo with many subtle upgrades to the lubrication system and the drivetrain, so it would survive under boost. Are you prepared to beef up your clutch, apply better heat-treatment to the gearbox parts, and find a way to cool the piston crowns?.

yes i do plan on heat treating all the transmission parts and motorparts. how ever i have not been warned about the fact of it burning faster i never relly thought of it thanks for the info that is why im delaying on doing this for more info. So in the matter of retarding the spark do u think that i should get a seca 650 spark disturbuting system would be sucfficent or would their be an easyer rought as the motor head that iv talked to talked about putting a MSD type box for the ignition

maby that's why he dident mention it because he would change it with that perhaps. he had also said a stronger spark would be needed to get a good arc on the spark plugs.

for heat treating he siad he would show me how to do it and let me do it to as menny parts as i wanted.

for the mechanical knolage iv got plenty of that but but this will be the first turbo modification or i guess blowen mod iv done

Use two SUM-850604 ignition boxes as they have the spark power you need as well as an adjustable boost retard. They are also HALF the price of an MSD box with a boost retard. With the retard you can run boost with no problems as far as octane requirements and your stock compression.
An Excellent book to explain supercharging is " Street Supercharging" part number SAD-SA17 for $20.00. Both the book and the box are available @ Summit Racing Equipment. The tech line is 330-630-0240. Ask for Tom ( that's me). I work weekdays 11a to 9p eastern time but I am off Wednesdays.

increase the fuel by 25%, drop the spark plugs 2 degrees, and run E-85

Better yet just dump a can of corn in the tank, your in for way more work than it's worth. Like bosozoku said 1500 is otpmistic. Gringing down on your cam's is going to be a disaster if you dont know what your doing. Get all of the documentation you can and figure out how to design and build an EFFICIENT system, other wise your gains will be slim to none.

I have thought of- but have not built- a home brew cam grinding rig.
It would have to consist of an all welded rig similar to a key copying machine where an angle grinder blade follows an accurate template along with degree wheels and the newly shaped lobe has to have the "lead-in" and "trailing" ramps properly done, have the proper surface finish, then be nitrided. Then I woke up.

just FYI. More power in an 82 1100 is probably not a good idea. The transmission has problems taking the punishment from the stock setup, let alone extra power. If you do this, and horse on it, chances are you will end up like LOTS of other 1100 owners...with a bad second gear.

www.xs11.com/forum/
Read this site. Its a bit of a different beast than xj bikes, and will have more info on the 1100.

Ive been following your thread here for awhile since I have an 1100 and love it. Just for the sake of those of us that are interested, please spell check.