HOW TO: replace flasher relay & keep auto cancel feature

Thanks to some other members' help, i was able to replace my busted and rusted original flasher relay with a new one.

Sounds simple enough, but our bikes have a unique flasher relay (not available today... yet) that takes a signal from the canceling unit to determine weather or not to flash. A modern 3 wire flasher will not work, and using a 2 wire flasher will loose your auto canceling feature (after 10 seconds AND 150 meters, the indicators stop flashing). I've drawn up a little schematic with (I think) all the information you'll need to replace your original flasher relay with a modern one, AND keep the auto canceling feature.

I welcome all questions, comments, and concerns.

Thanks for checking it out!



(link to full sized image)

 

Good work.

That's a SPDT relay. You need to indicate if you use the NO or NC connections for the flasher side of the circuit.

Ideally, you'll relabel your diagram with the numbers on the contacts.

Then, post it in the XJ FAQ section.

 

You are correct, I edited it to say normally open. I'll add the contact numbers eventually but that sucker is buried so far in my bike that it would be an hour long process to pull it to read it. Next time i'm at radio shack i'll get the contact numbers.

 

There's another way to build this. Chacal and I were talking about making them, but I just don't think there's enough demand for 'em. I've been contemplating turning over the information to the forum for those that want to build it.

It all fits inside a standard electronic Grote 44540 three-prong flasher. It requires a bit of de-soldering and rearranging, but it's not too difficult.





What you're doing is basically shorting out the capacitor by energizing the transistor with the signal from the canceler circuit. By shorting the capacitor, the circuit is prevented from oscillating until the voltage is removed from the base of the transitor. This happens when you turn on the turn signal switch which resets the canceler.

You start by de-soldier the capacitor and the jumper wire that's hooked to the third leg of the flasher. Then you soldier a jumper wire (red wire in the above picture) from there around to the base of the capacitor. Then you hook the Emitter and Collector in parallel to the capacitor. A little double-stick tape, a paper clip used for jumpers, a bit of 18 awg wire, and Bob's your uncle! Slide the cover back on and plug her in. You're good to go!

 

Wow! I wish I had that info about a month or two ago. Fantastic work! I'll be making one of these for sure.

 

Thanks for letting me thread-jack and not getting mad about it. If you need help when you're ready to build, let me know. It's actually pretty easy to put together.

 

No problem at all, my intention was simply so share my findings with other members and hopefully provide a solution to a common problem. You've found a better way and i'm excited to try it. It all seems easy enough, reomve a jumper, reposition a capacitor, and add a transistor. If i end up needing help, i certainly won't be afraid to ask. Thanks!

 

Simple and unique idea. Curious though wouldn't you wire to the NC relay connectors?

The canceler provides 12v when not allowing flashing right? So when not flashing the new relay will be picked. When you want to allow flashing the canceler is reset (so no voltage and relay opens) this would close the NC connections and allow flashing.

Do I have it backwards?

 

Yep, Bill, you've got it right. It's marked backwards on the diagram. I just looked at the rat-shack relay I've got and the wires are soldiered to the two for normally closed.

As a side note, there's no numbers on the relay. You need the diagram on the package to know which is what.

 

Thanks Don I have been looking at a canceler issue myself so I wanted to be sure I had it right.

The really cool thing is with this set up we can switch to LEDs and an electronic flasher while keeping the canceler.

 

What electronic LED flasher are you using?

 

Not using one yet but this would allow the canceler too. Just in the thought stage...

 

My mistake on labeling the diagram, I wired it correctly at least. I'll fix it when i have time. thanks for pointing it out.

 

So Don (Gamuru), I never got the chance to make one of your nice little flashers up. In speaking with Len (Chacal) it sounds like it didn't end up working out. Is this true? Where were the problems?

 

The flasher works fine with non-LED light bulbs.

 

gotcha. thanks. why no LED? a load issue?

 

Exactly.

 

Or... you could also do mine for auto-cancel with or without LED's... basically the same thing that bluepotpie came up with.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14068.html

Funny, though, that I didn't find this thread back when I was doing my original work.

One note if converting to LED's, though: if you have a single turn signal indicator (rather than Left and Right) in your instrument cluster, this lamp runs from the difference between the left and right turn signals, so you'll need to rewire that indicator with some diodes to prevent it shorting your left and right turn signals together (unintentional 4-way flashers).

Cheers,
Paul

 

Hmm, all very cool stuff.

Think the original post is my favorite way to go though, for ease of setup.

SQL - I never thought about that indicator being an issue. Will have to have Andy (bluepotpie) help me with that... not nearly as good with the electrical as him.

 

Actually, Andy's setup and mine are exactly the same, except for whether the relay's before or after the flasher (which is electrically equivalent anyway).