Seca 550 Instrument Cluster Teardown with Pics

OK, I split the speedo upgrade into two parts. This is the INSTRUMENT CLUSTER TEARDOWN portion, it will be useful for anyone with a 550 Seca that needs to replace a bulb or CLEAN the inside of their gauge faces.

To begin: Remove the headlight, unplug and set it somewhere safe. Unplug the three connectors indicated (these are the three that come from the cluster.)




Unbolt the cluster. I long ago replaced the nut/washer (on the bottom) with a flanged nut to make refitting them easier.




Remove the cluster, and place it face down on a non-marring surface. Remove the 4 cover screws indicated. Remove the cover.




Remove the 4 nuts and washers retaining the mounting bracket and remove the bracket.




YOU NEED GO NO FURTHER IF YOU'RE ONLY REPLACING BULBS.
Simply pull the rubber bulb/socket assemblies out as needed.

If you want to remove the faceplate you will need to remove the 7 screws indicated in green. You do not need to remove the eighth screw indicated in red, it holds the light box to the cover and does not need to come out now, honest.




Pop the face off It has a white rubber gasket all the way around that is glued to the inner case. It will STICK to the cover and make you think you don't have all the screws out. As long as you took out the seven indicated above in green you got them all, it will come off.




FURTHER TEARDOWN: Instrument Removal

The instruments are held in with:
Fuel Gauge: 3 wire posts, washer/nut/washer/nut GREEN
Volt Meter: 3 posts, only 2 have wires, rubber isolator/washer/lockwasher/nut RED
Tach/Speedo: 2 screws each BLUE
Tripmeter reset knob: The knob is reverse-threaded, it "unscrews" but in the wrong direction; you may need to slip a pair of thin needle-nose or hemos in to grab the shaft if it's too tight.
In the background you can see the 2 light box screws, indicated in PINK including the one you didn't need to remove above.
If you remove the light box, it has a rubber gasket that will probably stick to it.




REASSEMBLY IS THE REVERSE OF DISASSEMBLY with the following notes:


VOLTMETER CAUTION: DO NOT LOSE THE SPACER on the shaft indicated by the small arrow. The two outer mounting studs have collars cast into the plastic they are imbedded in, the center post needs the spacer to prevent damage to the voltmeter when it is tightened down. The big squooshy rubber gasket goes into the case behind the meter; the mounting rubbers and spacers are installed from the outside.




RE ATTACHING THE WIRES Yamaha thoughtfully cast the wire color codes into the inner casing. I highlighted them with a Sharpie for this photo. Big rings on the voltmeter small rings on the fuel gauge. Remember the center voltmeter post doesn't have a wire.




TIP IN REGARD TO SELF-TAPPING SCREWS INTO PLASTIC: To prevent stripping the holes out: Put the screw into position, and applying gentle pressure, turn it BACKWARDS until you feel it "pop" into engagement with the existing threads, then tighten.

RECOMMENDATION: The first time you tear into the cluster, change ALL your bulbs, unless you LIKE taking the cluster off and on (experience speaking...)

This concludes THIS PORTION of the speedometer retrofit project. This should be all you need to tear down, disassemble and refit your existing instrument cluster.

I am putting together an "add-on" to this thread, which will document the techniques, issues and particulars of retrofitting a REAL (not 85mph) speedo into the stock cluster and making it look like it belongs.

As always, if there is anything you need clarified, additional photos, or any questions, please feel free to ask. None of this is in any of the manuals I've seen.

 

Fitz the pics and write up are excellent. That new camera takes great pictures

 

Where'd the pics go?

 

They're right where they always were, in the article.

You can't see them because you don't have a 550.

 

hahahaahahahaha

what is up this?

"......I am putting together an "add-on" to this thread, which will document the techniques, issues and particulars of retrofitting a REAL (not 85mph) speedo into the stock cluster and making it look like it belongs......."

 

Thanks for this, I have been putting off changing the tachometer bulb for a while.. but doesn't look so bad!

PS, the exposure of your gauges to oxygen has faded the red parts from the second picture.......... :lol:

 

It's right here: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/22823

 

What kind of light bulbs does the instrument cluster and all take and where can i find them?

 

They are wedge-base bulbs, we have them in stock and LED configurations.

incan1) These tiny wedge-based METER BULBS are the correct style and intensity for all XJ-bikes except the 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and Midnight Maxim models.

HCP3619 OEM meter illumination and warning BULB. Fits the following models and in the following quantity to do the entire cluster (illumination and warning lights).

1981-83 XJ550 Seca (uses 7)



led1) Well, ain't technology great? They look brighter, are more efficient, and thus use alot less wattage to produce the same amount of light output, and thus these LED DASH GAUGE BULBS save you a bit of horsepower (less alternator output needed), and of course they'll basically outlive you and your bike!

These direct replacement bulbs install just like the original wedge-base bulbs (all models other than 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim/Midnight Maxim models), and have been evaluated and tested to provide the proper level of illumination without creating a night-time glare condition. NOTE: bulbs listed as being "much brighter than stock" means just that......and something to keep in mind when ordering. Typically, bulbs that are typically "always on" during night-time riding (such as the speedo and tacho faceplate illumination, and the blue high-beam warning indicator light) can be very distracting if you choose the "much brighter than stock" option, so choose wisely --- bigger isn't always better! On the other hand, must-get-your-attention lights (neutral, oil, warning, turn signals) can use the "much brighter than stock" bulbs if you are so inclined (but, be aware, when we say "much brighter than stock", we aren't kidding!).

Although there are a great variety of bulbs that are available for each bike/light position, you should choose the ones that match your level of illumination needs, and mix-or-match as needed. Pricing for each bulb is listed at the end of this section. And yes, you can use our white LED's even under the colored warning light plastic filters and still end up with the proper warning color (i.e. blue for high beam, yellow for turns, green for neutral, red for oil or warning).

NOTE: when used for speedometer and tachometer face illumination, all LED bulbs listed as "slightly brighter than stock incandescent bulbs" will create a small "visual hot spot" on the speedo and tach faceplate directly above the bulb location.


XJ550 Seca models:

Speedometer and tachometer illumination:

HCP356A is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb and provides a yellowish glow.
HCP356G is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb and provides a greenish glow.
HCP359G is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb and provides a greenish glow.
HCP356R is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb and provides a reddish glow.
HCP359R is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb and provides a reddish glow.

HCP356NW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb and provides a white glow.
HCP356WW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb and provides a white glow.
HCP359NW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb and provides a white glow
HCP359A is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb and provides a yellowish glow.


Turn signal indicator light:

HCP358A is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797A is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797CW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.

HCP355A is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP356NW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP356WW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357A is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP359A is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP359NW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.


Oil light:

HCP359NW is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797CW is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb.

HCP356R is slighter brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357R is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357CW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357NW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357WW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP358R is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP359R is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797R is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.

HCP355R is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.



Neutral light:

HCP354G is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP354CW is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb.

HCP355G is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP356G is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP358G is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP359G is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797G is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797CW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.

HCP356NW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP356WW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357G is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357CW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357NW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357WW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb
HCP359NW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.


High-beam indicator:

HCP354B is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP354CW is the same brightness as a stock incandescent bulb.

HCP356B is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357B is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357CW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357NW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP357WW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP358B is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP359B is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP359NW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797B is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP14797CW is slightly brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.

HCP355B is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP356NW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.
HCP356WW is much brighter than a stock incandescent bulb.