Using the Zip Tie Tool w Pics

Hey Guys,

WesleyJN and I just pulled the shims out of my XJ650 to check for their pad #'s. BigFitz's Airhead Valve Adjustment write-up was a great help to us since we are first-timers on the subject, however we didn't have the tool he used to hold the buckets down. We spent 30 minutes bending different zip ties, twisting them in the spark plug hole while advancing the cam shaft lobes with high hopes that something would catch. Finally we found the right combination which I will outline below. Also we had almost given up after trying to get the shims out of the buckets, a technique also not fully described when using a zip tie. Forgive me folks if there is a step by step zip tie method post which covers how hard it is to pry those shims out requiring two screwdrivers.

 

Rotate the cam forward. Once the cam lobe is depressing the shim to it's maximum amount....

 

...you can clearly see the Valve in the spark plug hole!

 

Place your Zip Tie Tool in at this angle.

 

Once in, rotate the motor forward advancing the cam lobe off the shim. The valve is now resting on your Zip Tie Tool. Check to see if it's caught by gently wiggling it. Yes...Good, No...try again.

 

Now that the Zip Tie is held in by the valve, get to work on prying those shims out. Advance the cam to this position and grab your screwdrivers.

 

You have to apply some downward pressure to the rim of the bucket with your large screwdriver in order to pry out the shim...That is where I amost gave up! Every time I tried to pry up, the bucket would come up with the shim and close off any room to pry.

Use your small screwdriver, placed into the slot, to pry the shim out! You might have to give it a good amount of pressure to dislodge it. I did!

 

Did you get the shim out with your hemostats purchased from the local hardware store $4.99- (compliments BigFitz) ... Then way to go! Record the number, put it back and advance the cam until the lobe is centered on the shim again and now you can pop out your zip tie tool. It should come out easy if your lobe is dead-centered on the shim, pressing the bucket back down. Let me know if you think I should add/change anything. Thanks XJers!

 

Because the zip tie is holding the valve open by holding the valve itself rather than pressing the bucket down, you have to press down on the bucket (compressing the valve spring slightly) to get the shim out.

It's easier with the $15 tool. It holds the bucket down all the way. Then the only prying necessary is to break the hold the oil has on the shim.

 

I had good luck with 12 gauge - - 12/2 - - household electrical wire with the 80* bend for the last half inch.

 

I use one of the small telescoping magnets (normally used to retrieve lost screws, etc.) to lift the shim out of the bucket.

I never could get the MotionPro tool to hold down the bucket without rotating out of the way or slipping off at an inopportune time!

Herb

 

Mhhpartner, I hope your kidding. Definitely not a good place for magnetism! I probably should have mentioned that.

Quote by BigFitz: *Non magnetic tools are important as the shim and bucket are made of an easily magnetized alloy. If they become even weakly magnetized they will attract microscopic particles of metal and accelerate the wear on the cam and shims.

 

Palmer650,Great job on the write up!!!!
Some of my shims were difficult to remove! Keep prying and they will pop.
I also used the zip tie, i used a 1/4" wide, bent and taped to hold it.

 

Palmer: CORRECT! Magnetism BAD, for the reason mentioned.

The "trick" to the blasted tool is to have the cam lobe sticking STRAIGHT DOWN at 90 degrees to the surface of the shim, not at 90 deg to the head. (The cam lobe will be EXACTLY centered on the shim.) That allows the tool to properly seat against the 'heel' of the lobe, and once you learn the technique, "the tool" works first time, every time. Believe me I swore at that thing a few times before I figured out the trick.

 

awesome palmer, thanks a bundle.

im too cheap for the $15 bucks if i can do it my self. $15 - that's two shims right there!

 

also note that I'd rather fight fishing a zip tie out of my cylinder than worry about mechanical advantage breaking my head with the now 17 dollar tool. much rather spend 3 hours fishing for a piece of zip tie than 10 seconds with a cracked head.

 

Not to contradict anyone, but the service manual says to use a magnetic tool to get the shim out, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. Plus, I doubt you're going to significantly magnetize the cam or the buckets or anything with a tiny little magnet tool that you put in there once or twice.

 

On that note, I just read in another post that a clymer manual says to torque the swingarm nut to 47ft/lbs but its really supposed to be 47in/lbs.

Just a note to not trust manuals to the T.

I trust users who actually do the work, but that's just me.

On the note of the zip tie tool - I found my zip tie too thin to hold the bucket down far enough. So I flipped it around and used the head of the tie. Much thicker, and in my opinion more sturdy and I think it's a lot stronger.
Worked like a charm. Since my shim was such a pain to take out, (really tight in bucket) I left it out, the zip tie is still in there. Anyone think that will damage the spring at all? Should I drop it back in?

 

I used weedwacker string in place of zip tie. Way stronger and thicker. Use some pliers to give it a good bend.
I prefer more then 90 degree angle kinda like a hook on both ends. slide it in and set the hook. cakewalk.
I made three of these so I wouldn't miss a chance to slip one into a valve that was down. Just stay focused make sure u put a bend on both ends of the string so it won't drop in.
Never thought valves would be so easy. although the xs650 is pretty simple too.

 

forgive me if i'm missing something here, but once you place the zip tie in the plug hole can you only remove the shim from that valve or all of them ? TIA

 

blame_the_po:: one zip tie per valve!!