Barzu, check your fuse inside the headlight bucket, light blue wire goes to it I believe. That should be it. Did you replace any turn signals lights lately?

Xulf, dookie!

No, did not replace turn signals. Changed that fuse because it was indeed shot, and I got a new bulb just in case. Still nothing.

I really did not want to delve into this crap until winter...jeez.

To clarify, I have no running lights. Turn signals work great and the brake light does come on when the foot pedal or hand lever is depressed. Why me? Whhhhyyyyy meeeeeeeee?

Not sure if you have a wiring diagram but I found this one. It's for a UK model but most of it should be the same. Hope it helps.
XJ750 wiring diagram

Thanks Earz,

Here's my gifts. Scroll down to the bottom after clicking the link to download it. Enjoy!

Filename: YamXJ650750HayMan.pdf (174MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...HayMan_pdf

Filename: Honda_CB750SC.Nighthawk_84.pdf (13.99MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...awk_84_pdf

Filename: CarbElecMan.pdf (61.93MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...lecMan_pdf

Filename: MotoMechMan.pdf (45.06MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...echMan_pdf

Filename: CarbMan.pdf (20.34MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...arbMan_pdf

Filename: Motorcycle Mechanics General Manual.pdf.pdf (45.06MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...al_pdf_pdf

Filename: YamXJ650750ManPt1.pdf (76.53MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...ManPt1_pdf

Filename: YamXJ650750ManPt2.pdf (38.45MB)
Download Link: www.filefactory.com/fi...ManPt2_pdf

Went riding yesterday with four other dudes. Ended up putting 400 miles on the bike. Wow, I was NOT ready for that, and my body is very clearly telling me that this morning.

The header pipes will not do at all. My ears are still ringing. Fortunately, one of the dudes I met yesterday is a pro welder and has a shop, so I'm going out there and we're going to lengthen these pipes to the back tire.

Originally, the header pipes were not that high on the priority list, but after yesterday, they just jumped up to number one.

barzu wrote:

Went riding yesterday with four other dudes. Ended up putting 400 miles on the bike. Wow, I was NOT ready for that, and my body is very clearly telling me that this morning. The header pipes will not do at all. My ears are still ringing. Fortunately, one of the dudes I met yesterday is a pro welder and has a shop, so I'm going out there and we're going to lengthen these pipes to the back tire. Originally, the header pipes were not that high on the priority list, but after yesterday, they just jumped up to number one.

Get them lengthened just a bit and aimed to the ground. Should help quite a lot. We did a similar thing with a '32 ford, and ended up turning the chevy 350 we put in's pipes straight to the ground. off the head and down to the ground, aimed away from the cabin (just forward and to the side, funnily enough. You hear it coming for sure!)

Surprisingly enough, after we did that, the car was pretty quiet (for a 350 with straight pipes)

Poprider,

I saw a dude in the city the other day with an XJ650. He was too fast for me to catch up to him, but I did notice that he had a 4 into 2 setup. He rolled two of each header pipes into a single, fat, 3" exhaust. Then he ran it along the bottom of the bike and once past the center stand, kicked them upward at 45 degrees so both pipes on either side stuck out a few inches past the tire. It looked amazing.

I will say that since that last post I've raised the needle by one clip and the bike sounds much more throaty and the sound from the pipes is much more tolerable.

I will however try and get the same look that I saw dude with this winter when it's choppy choppy time.

In the mean time, I'm still crying over my electrical problems and am getting a voltmeter today.

[quote="earz_cd"]Barzu, when you get those jets installed, here's how to adjust the pilot screws (copied from another post, written by rickomatic)

Quote::

This is “Real Old School Tuning” By “Ear” Start 2.5 ~ 3 Turns OUT from bottom on all 4 Carbs For 750 Bikes I’d set them at just between 2-3/4 & 3 … closer to 3 Put two drops of light Oil in each Pilot Mixture Hole' Important: Make yourself a screwdriver that fits the slot on the Pilot Mixture Screw with Precision. Even if yours are loose and won’t bind … you want to be able to “Feel” the Screw moving. If they aren’t loose an ill-fitting screwdriver will destroy the slot, causing a big problem! Above the Starter Motor ... Under Carbs 2 & 3 is the Idle Adjustment Rod. It has a Thumb Wheel on the end. You can add a thin washer to the Rod to make it easy to turn. You’ll need to be able to make highly precise adjustments without difficulty! Turn it Clockwise a tiny bit at a time until the engine is running steadily. Don't exceed 1,200 rpm’s (1,050 if you can get it. 950 if the Tuning permits) While the Engine’s running. Begin some Tweaking. Turn the Pilot Mixture Screw for #-1 OUT ... real SLOWLY. Listen for the RPM's to INCREASE. The revs should rise as you give it more Fuel and Air at the Pilot Screw. This is Pilot Mixture for Idling. When the revs rise here’s what to do... Keep the RPM's at 1,100 by reaching under the Carbs and lowering the Idle Adjustment Knob. Stay close to 1,000 rpm’s at all times. "Tweak" OUT ... the #-1 Pilot Mixture Screw listening to the Engine and Exhaust note VERY Carefully. Keep turning the SCREW ~> OUT if the RPM's continue to rise. At some point ... The RPM's ~~> will NOT continue to rise. Remember this Point. You have to come back to it. At THIS point ... MICROSCOPICALLY continue the Turning OUT... UNTIL <~~ The Mixture gets TOO RICH and the Bike: Coughs Misfires Burps Runs rough Etc. >> STOP << THEN <~~ Get ready to make a CRITICAL Adjustment. Pretend you are about to move THE SECOND HAND on a STOPWATCH! One FULL Turn would be 60 Seconds ... right? OK. Turn that Pilot Screw ~~> IN <~~ Two (2) Seconds ... maybe Three (3) (Degrees, small, a (my-nute amount) Don't go four. Run fans to keep the bike cool. Throttle it up and let it idle. Adjust the IDLE rpm's with the Idle Adjustment ROD. 1,100 Max Tweak #-2 Just exactly like #-1 (If the rev's exceed 2,000 ... back-off the IDLE SPEED ROD More) Then finish-up doing #-3 -&- #-4. When you are done ... TWEAKING ... you will need to Road Test for THROTTLE RESPONSE. IF... You are Idling, say, at a Red Light and when the light turns green and you take-off ... (Getting “Out-of-the-hole”) … and, … The Bike ~> BACKFIRES a little bit before the Power comes on: Your LEAN The Pilot Screws need to be: Tweaked OUT Two (2) Degrees. Chart where you are at from this moment on … +2 Degrees IF... You are at the light and take-off... The Bike ~> HESITATES for the slightest bit before the Power comes on: Your RICH The Pilot Screws need to be: Tweaked IN Two (2) Degrees. (Almost not turning the screw at all. A nudge!) Fine-tuning will be complete when you have Tweaked-Out the Backfire or the Hesitation during Further Load Testing. All further Tweaking is to be done in increments of: Two Degrees at a time. Go find a closed Industrial Park and do it all in one sitting. Have somebody put the tools you need in a sack and follow you over there in the car. Don’t forget a Flashlight. Backfire = Lean = OUT Hesitation = Rich = IN Go for it! Get Tweaked Watch your Plugs and treat each Cylinder individually. Read the Color of the Plug on the Center Electrode’s Ceramic Collar. Too Dark (Beyond chocolate brown) Tweak IN: 2-Degrees Too Clean: (Clean or no coloration) Tweak OUT: 2-Degrees As you Tweak individual Carbs for the right Mixture … Watch the Plugs coloration at the Center Electrode Ceramic Collar. Clean: Bad. Lean. Tweak Screw OUT for MORE Fuel. Although the Bike will run superbly Lean like that … it’s a dangerous condition that can HARM the Bike permanently. Light Tan: Lean but OK. This is a Power setting. The Mixture is burning Fast making big power. You’ll have fast acceleration with the Plugs a light tan. You must monitor the situation and keep an eye on the Oil Level. If your Oil starts disappearing and you don’t have a leak … you are still too Lean. Light Brown: Normal Dark Brown: Rich. Most people like to have them at the Dark Brown Mixture setting. The Engine makes good smooth power and cruises really nicely, staying cooler than the Lean settings. If I am tuning someone’s bike for them … I set them at Dark Brown so they are insured against Ring and Valve damage.

earz_cd Can I ask you why you need to put light oil in the pilot mixture screw?

Carvall

I didn't, but I assume it is to lubricate the threads of the screw so you can make fine adjustments

That is what I was thinking but I thought I better ask. With bikes procuderes you miss a little detail and nothing works! LOL

Thanks for your answer!

Carvall

Quote::

The header pipes will not do at all. My ears are still ringing.

HAHAHAHA! i knew it would get old.....my muffler is in need of another baffle. no ride is worth a 2 day headache! straight pipes are cool for about 5 minutes.

Hey dudes. Still here...and now that winter is passing on, it's gonna be time to start working on the bike again to get it ready to ride. Looking forward to discussions with you all.

whoa
you're back.

cool

Winter's a bitch. I sold my 650. Still got my 700 though. I'm in the early stages of a XS650 build. Still lots of work to do and not enough time.

Wondered what happened to ya'! Glad you're back...

skillet