Now, that we all are approaching our bike's Silver Anniversary; those near 25-years of enjoyment might suddenly become just a bit frustrating. Even for those of you who are the original owner's of your bike; an electrical time-bomb hiding beneath the seat might be close to going off!

You've replaced tires, batteries, brake pads, light bulbs, handlebar grips, clutches and other parts that aged ... wore-out or got used-up. Those things you -- expect -- to wear-out and replace. But, there's another component that ages and wears-out you might not have paid any attention too ... because it's not the type of component that attracts attention.

Your fuse block.

You really should take-off the seat and give your fuse block a very close inspection. There seems to be a spike on the graph of fuse box failures; and you don't want yours being the next to go.

The fuse box wears out. Not the life-time plastic case; but those little, metal, fuse holders have had a nice career and many are retiring without giving notice. They lose their grip and cause resistance issues; or just break apart and cause you the headache of trying to figure what to do about it.

You can buy the new clips and struggle putting them on, with the limited amount of wire available to work with, after struggling to get the broken one off. It's tricky and right-up-there close to the top of the "Pain in the ass" scale. I've seen pro's struggle to do it for purists who absolutely insist on keeping their bike's the way it left Japan! Understandable IF the bike's a "Trailer Queen" that only goes-out to show's.

Other buy the clips ... stick 'em in the tiny plastic wings that hold them in the box ... then, mess-up the whole deal trying to get a ... not quite long enough wire ... soldered to a ... not quite heat-resistant ... fuse box! The result is a situation made worse, money wasted and a melted fuse box causing the attempting installer to do the bad-word's yelling and screaming routine. It's crazy!

Those little clips were soldered-on the ends of accurately-measured, precisely-fitting wires ... before they were clipped-in to the fuse box during assembly. If you trim-off an eyelash to strip and solder-on a new clip ... it doesn't fit right anymore ... causing bad-word's to happen!

So, since the frustration-causing, ill-fitting, finger-burning, fuse-box-melting, bad-word's yelling, new, little OEM, replacement clips cost far MORE than a COMPLETELY Brand New,
6-terminal, heavy duty, easy-to-install, weather-resistant fuse box -- the choice is yours!

I'm recommending that you consider replacing your fuse block if there is any evidence that yours is soon to cause you some trouble.

This one, from -- Wirewerks Performance -- is an ideal replacement fuse box.

Your absolutely right. About a week ago im riding along to work and i loose everything. No power at all. I pull over and check the fuse box and found that the main clip had broken off and i guess tapped the headlamp clip. I threw an inline on as a temporary fix. Needless to say, all the clips were very brittle and a few broke to the touch. I replaced it (or at least attempted too) this past weekend. I purchased a four terminal block from radio shack. I had to butt splice the original wires since there was no play in them at all. i used female adaptors w/ heat shrink. It's ugly as hell but it works. Now my problem is the cluster of wires. with the splices, extra wire and adaptors it's quite larger than the stock setup. I have no cover on the block. i just wrapped it in electrical tape and mounted it to the bottom of the existing box. (lol i know this can't be good). I want to do it right where it will fit properly under the seat w/ cover for protection. But i dont see how it would all piece together when you have to extend the original wires. Thanks. P.s - i have an 82 maxim 550.

Im guessing your solder the wires to the posts on the wirewerks box? But how do you cover the posts? Is there clips to connect to the box. How do you cover all this spare wire and buttsplices etc. up? Thanks.

The way I go about installing a new fuse box allows me to place it just about anywhere beneath the seat.

From a salvaged wiring harness; I cut some lengths of matching color-coded wire.

I prepare the new fuse box by soldering and heat shrinking -- 8-inch lengths of matching color-coded wire to the blade terminals on the box.

Then, after cutting-out the old fuse box from the bikes wiring harness; I solder-on some long extensions to the short ends and shrink wrap the splices.

Next, I place the new fuse box under the seat and attach it, finger tight with some new fasteners.

With the new box sitting where it will be permanently installed; I next run the wires their matching wires on the wiring harness. Using needle-nosed pliers to hold the wires; I create new 90-degree corners and bends to fit the wires together nicely ... for soldered-up splicing and heat shrink.

Once all the wires are custom bent and the splices soldered-up and finished. I remove the fastener securing the new box to the airbox and tape the wiring for an OEM looking finishing-up.

I have pics on my digital but have to get them onto my computer. Usb ports not working....couldn't get sp2 wink wink....anyway ill be posting pics of my before and after shots. I was wondering if it would pe possible to see pics of your fuse box. I get the basic idea but pics would be greatly appreciated. Im not that good at soldering...i.e. never did it before. I hope this box will fit under my seat because i am getting nervous about a fire or a short of some sort. Thanks again for your help.

I'll have to send a picture to Snowsheriff ... and have him resize it to fit in the Gallery!

For some reason ... (my computer skills) ... I can't seem to resize a picture that had a size that will load.

Maybe somebody could do me "The NEW School Method" and tutor me to be able to put some of these photos up for all to see,

I sent the shot to "Snow" ... maybe he'll put it in My Gallery soon and everyone will get an idea of how it fits.

Excellent thanks again. Im gonn apost my before and after (last project) and my before and after on this one as well. Probably wont get to it till the weekend. Thanks.

Photograph of -- WireWerks 6-Terminal Replacement Fuse Panel is now available to be viewed in My Gallery ...

I hope it shows you how nice it can be mounted and fit in the XJ750 Max.

Hey Rick, did you get my pm concerning the carbs? Mine are 33 mm's.

I just had the same problem with my bike, and i replaced the bad fuse with a blade fuse and holder. I will take pics and post.

Here's one

Save this pic.

Next time somebody needs to know where the Safety Relay is ... Bingo!

That's it ... just to the left of where the Fuel Tank bolts down.

Nice job on the fuse panel. Did you have to splice-in some wire or did it fit on the ends of the stock wiring?

No splices. Had to unwrap some of the tape to reroute the wires to make it look right but that was it. Here is the link for the fuse block. Got it from the XS11 site. www.delcity.net/delcit...em=1&new=y

Dave

this is how mine looks with one new blade fuse