VALVE COVER REFURB: Step-by-step with pics

OK, for everybody who's asked, and those who haven't yet: here's how I took an old ratty valve cover and refurbished it for my Seca 550.

A lot of the steps and processes apply to other parts on the bike too; at least to a point.

Because the original black valve cover on my '83 had the lettering overly factory-ground, I wanted to start with an early (unground) cover since I planned to polish the raised ribs and "YICS."

My raw material:




First step was to degrease it using a citris-based engine degreaser from the Auto Parts store:




Then it's time to get rid of that old original clear lacquer coating. For that we use "Aircraft" Paint Remover (also available in the paint section of most auto parts stores) and Gasket remover for the really tough remnants.

WEAR GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION. Even a microdrop of either of these products burns like heck, you don't want to even imagine getting it in your eye.
Bubbling away:




Gasket Remover on the inside to remove all the baked-on residue:




De-Lacquered:




I add a step that you may or may not want to; I find it helps to get rid of any little clinging remnants of dead lacquer that may still be in the nooks and crannies.
I give it a good scrub down with a gritty househhold cleanser. I use VIM (a Canadian product) which is similar to Comet or Ajax and a stiff brush:




Rinse thoroughly, then it's INTO THE BOILING LEMON JUICE! (I add a cup or so of CLR to the lemon juice to increase the effect of the solution.)

DO NOT BREATHE THE STEAM FROM THIS!!! You'll need to check on it after about 20 minutes, and keep checking every 10 minutes or so after that. Take it out, rinse it, and if necessary, return to the boil.

If you boil it for too long it will darken, so keep an eye on it.




Fresh out of the boil:



I used lime juice when I did my other cover and it worked well too.


Then a quick spray down with WD40 to remove all traces of moisture, followed by a good scrub with lacquer thinner on a clean cotton rag, and it's CLEAN clean.




You could stop there and polish up the ribs (the stock treatment) or take it to the next level.

Masked for painting (Gloss Black) between the ribs:




I found it easier to just paint over the to-be-polished ribs than to try to mask the lettering and all; a little careful use of a chisel-blade X-Acto knife helps to remove the paint prior to sanding.




Then the ribs and lettering were block-sanded progressively, starting with 800 wet followed by 1200 wet and then 1500 wet:




At this point, you could stop and polish the ribs. Gives it kind of a 60s hot-rod look, I did this on my '81 but used red instead of black. If you stop here, use a wad of Nevr-Dull to get the rest of the cover shiny but not too shiny.




But for this one I took it the rest of the way, and painted the rest of the cover with Low-Gloss Black.



Like I said, a lot of this process can be applied to other parts prior to polishing, etc.

Have Fun!--- Fitz

 

I have a 82 750 seca cover for sale! Nice writeup Fitz!

 

I am sorely impressed. I would love to do stuff like that to mine but that would mean taking it apart and then I couldn't ride it. Gotta get me another bike.

 

That was a $10 cover off eBay, the original has the pre-ground off lettering TOO ground down.

Truth be told, that was the valve cover off my spare head that I got off eBay for $10.

 

wow! Score!

 

Good post. I like the detailed instructions and the step-by-step pictures. Beautiful job!

 

very noice! I can provide a detailed testimonial for how much aircraft remover hurts, after working on my cb750 paint... it hurt, then when I was at school my hands were red as all get out and they hurt like no other.

but very nice

 

Fitz - What kind of paint do you use?

 

Also, thanks for all of your beautiful step-by-steps. The pictures are extremely helpful and you know your SH#!.

 

Duplicolor "high temp" engine enamel; the 500* stuff, not the VHT header paint.

Once it's fully cured (about 7-10 days) it's hard as nails.

 

Wow...

 

great job.
thanks for the pics.

 

*facepalm*

 

Fitz,

Excellent write up and great pictures. But I do have a question. Why did you mask most of the cover before painting between the ridges? Did you use a glossier paint between them?

thanks,
mikeg

 

Thank you all.

Schooter, I'm not dignifying that with a response.

Mike; sure did. Gloss black in between, and low-gloss (nearly flat) black for the rest of the cover.

Look closely at the finished pic. I think it makes the ribs stand out.

It's cool because the area between the ribs is raised slightly from the rest of the cover so it gives you a clean line of demarcation. Yamaha gave us a lot to play with.

I used gloss red between the ribs on the otherwise "naked" valve cover on my '81; I think it makes the bike look finished.

I've got a few "extras" I was thinking about maroon between the ribs of a flat black cover with brushed highlights for my black bike... hmmm

 

WOW and Impressive!

What is the purpose of the boiling lemon juice (VERY LOW WIFE APPROVAL FACTOR THERE)? And what if you were to skip it?

edit:
i saw various covers on ebay tonight before looking at this post.
Are the 750J maxim cover the same as the secas for 82? What about 81 covers maxim or seca? (Raised rib versions)

 

With everything you have to offer a Cycle World or Classic Motorcycle magazine's feature's writer; I'm shocked and dismayed that they have ignored the suggestions I have sent them to look at what you have contributed, ... and they do nothing.

I'm beginning to think it has more to do with them ignoring Yamaha as opposed to not being able to find someone to go and knock on your door.

Find a Honda 305 Dream that has flat tires and needs to be washed before you buff-it-up and snap a picture and they pee their pants with excitement.

Build an old Yamaha all-over, again ... and they don't give you the time of day!

 

The boiling lemon (or lime) juice gets the grey staining out of the cover (or greatly reduces it) since it's not getting highly polished. If you're going to polish a part, it's not necessary. It really wasn't necessary for the painted cover, but I was undecided about painting it and might have left it "nekkid."

Unfortunately, the only bikes a 550 valve cover fits are other 550s. The '82 Seca 650 was a non-YICS motor, so that cover is different too; I'm pretty sure the YICS 650 and 750 are interchangeable but I have no idea about their raised highlights from year to year.

 

The pictures make it nice lol, I wonder what it will look like with the ribs shaved off and just leaving the letters.

 

I did a search for "valve cover" and "paint" and got this thread. Great write up.

Fitz: what did you do to the bolt heads that typically look all corroded and discolored? I'm guessing you refurbished them to?

 

Or just buy new from Chacal ;-)

 

I hit my heads of these bolts up with the bench top wire weel to get em smooth, and then hit them up with chrome spray paint, its a real nice bright silver.

though, this baked on engine paint that yamaha used does NOT want to come off, 3 times with aircraft remove, and still lots on it

 

nice right up and nicely finished product.

but i would spend 10 min with a sand (if painting)/soda( if polishing) blaster and skip all the scrubbing and boiling.

 

Yeah, schooter, I'm having the same problem. I'm dumping a LOT of time into making this valve cover look pretty and it probably still won't look as nice as Fitz's.

 

Great great article. Even after 4 or 5 years it's still relevant.

 

I just took my cover off, so this is just the inspiration I need while I wait for valve clearance parts from Chacal! Considering the red treatment to better match my bike's scheme. Red between the ribs, flat black and polished ribs and YICS? I think yes!

 

I just finished mine and thought I'd share. Mine started out painted black, but in need of attention. I forgot to take a picture of the original state. I used some aircraft paint stripper, which was really nasty stuff. That's the worst part of the job, IMHO. Then, I cleaned it in mineral oil, followed by a cleanser and brush.
Next, I wiped it down with acetone and shot it with flat-black engine paint. I painted the whole thing instead of masking off the ribs. It looked pretty good and considered stopping there, but decided to polish the ribs. I used 220, then 400, then 1500 grit to wet sand the ribs. I spent the most time with the 220 to get the right amount of reveal on the ribs and letters. The rest was just smoothing and I found the sheen after 1500 was perfectly fine for me. I had purchased some buffing wheels and grit, but decided not to risk taking off more paint with that. I masked off the ribs and shot some clear engine paint over that. I think the results aren't much different than what Fitz did.

 

Nice job!

 

I am unable to pull up the pics listed throughout your DIY process any ideas?
They just cam e up my bad slow confuzzier

 

it is a nice touch I did it on a cover

 

Might just be a temporary server issue. The pics are loading for me.

 

Very nice job Sir, when I am done with mine I will upload so you can see that your information on How to's is being utilized.
The best sort of Flattery

 

Great work Fritz I am going to do the same to my XJ 900f parts.

 

Did you use a clear coat? I have a can of 2k I haven't punctured yet. I'm about to make a small paint repair after a roommate knocked my fender off a shelf...

 

Fitz hasn't been around as an active member for years.
What I can tell you is that if he used clear coat he would have mentioned that in the writeup. He's very thorough that way.

FWIW a good enamel does not benefit from having clear applied over it.

 

True, but the 2K is some really good stuff, it won't hurt at all to use it...………..

 

Breathing apparatus required though, unless its ISO-Free.

I only stress that becuse of how many people think that all paint is safe to spray while just wearing a simple filter mask.

Lungs, human: issued 1 pair. To be used for the duration.

 

True, but the same applies to many spray paints. I always spray with a box fan blowing away from me, and the product to be coated is between me and the fan, so as I'm spraying towards the object (and the fan), most of the overspray is pulled away from my area.

 

I use a breathing apparatus every time! I'll definitely be using a fan as well.
Good to know how thorough he is, but if it isn't needed and the paint will stay strong for years to come since it's a different type, then I'm ok with it! I would have to check to temp rating on the 2k as well, engine may be too hot.
Mine is looking very ugly and I just happen to have some valve shim maintenance coming up