BB Sync Tool - -New idea here

This solves a problem that some have had.
A home-made Manometer will lose all it's fluid into the motor (quickly) if the bench sync isn't spot-on. Then you have to re-fill the Manometer and try again. And again.

Even the best bench sync will leave the 4 carbs out of sync for the engine.

This easy to make tool will let you quickly sync the carbs on a running bike close enough that you can then use a water sync tool (Manometer)without the risk of sucking water into the motor.

(Marvel Mystery Oil, or ATF can also be used, for those who never want water in their motor)

All you need is a BB from a BB gun, a foot of the 1/4 inch clear hose that is used in other Manometers, clear tape and cardboard (or wood).
(buy 20 feet of clear tubing for $5.00 at the hardware store.)

A bit of twisted wire keeps the BB from coming out of the clear tube.
You would still need the "restrictors" or "Baffles" used in other sync tools.
The second tube with a BB just determines "level" - not really needed.

Bench sync link:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=6366/
(I don't use paper clips, I use 2 strips of printer paper)

Running sync link:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... +sync.html

**NEW INFO**
Instead of making the restrictors (baffles) described in the link below,
You can carefully cram paper towel directly into the tubing of your devise, just tightly enough to provide restriction equal to the WD-40 tube.
This will save messing with epoxy and buying unions or filters, also reducing the number of connections, and possible leaks in your devise.

Restrictor AND the "one gauge" sync method:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... vious.html

 

A big two thumbs up


this works for major noobs, me.


ok delivers instant results, no waiting for water to flow, nada, i build a very cruse rig.. ill snap osme pics, try and get them up here tonite, you're going to laugh, Time

 

Here's my tool, and thats my dog, who wanted to congratulate me on an awesome device

 

So the goal is what? To get the BB dead center on the bottom of the tube?

 

Beautiful dog!

 

That dog is way out of sync'.

 

Schooter, I can't believe you are having so much trouble using one of the simplest tools imaginable 8O

Here's my manometer:



It has about 15' of clear hose which is looped and ziptied to a 4' length of alloy flyscreen frame. It uses fork oil (probably 15W, I can't remember).





Things to note:
* Keep both tubes the same length (loop it, ziptie it, then cut the ends the same length).
* You don't need a ruler to see graduations (as long as the tubes are next to each other you can easily see if there are differences in oil height).
* Make sure you have enough empty tube so you can stop the engine before it sucks the oil in (but if you have bench synched the carbs, they should be close enough not to do this)

Really, it is dead simple and it .......works......







And yes, my cat needs a feed :lol:

 

Very cool looking Schooter.
But i must also ask........why?
The bottles work great, (or gauge manometer etc.).
Besides,in order for the BB the travel freely in the tube,
espescialy through a bend without binding, a certain amount of
space must be left between the BB and the tubing.
That would also allow a fairly unpridictable amount of diff in air/vacuum
pressure albeit very small, where as with a fliud, all the avalible space
has been removed and all vacuum pressure is directly in contact
with said fluid.

 

The goal is to center the BB at the bottom, or match the other BB if the board is not on a level surface.
In use, the BB is constantly being batted a little by the pulses so it never "sticks" in one spot. The baffling of WD-40 "RickCOMatic" restrictors works just fine. Too much damping and the BB would not move.

This tool does NOT produce the FINAL sync.
The BB section is then replaced by 10 feet of tube, as Hillsy shows. (Nice pics !)
My goal is to keep people from building the "baby bottle" devise and to solve the "water in engine" paranoia.

 

Hillsy, I think its more or less a lack of patience causing this trustration... aparently you're just supposed to adjust just the slightest turn at a time, well using my baby bottles (and using water) I would see it move to one side of the bottle, i'd move the screw 1/2 a turn or more, getting really mixed up, So i tuned it down a bit... and got frustrated, say the screw is at point A, and its going to the left bottle, ok, so I turned it 1/4 turn( too much I know) but it goes into the right bottle, too much, Ok so now I've got my window i adjusted it slowly, kept going to right bottle, and eventually I got back to point A, it was still going into the right bottle. That would happen alot.. and I just got angry

now i bb synched it, its close enough for this winnter break, hopefully i'll fine tune wint your synch tool in spring break and I can take it up north to college

 

Most of the posts i see about synching, never mention the fact that you really need cooling fans blowing on your bike for cooling, an you need it completely warmed up. This may seem like a simple thing, but i have seen a lot of people overlook this. WARM IT UP, THE FANS TO KEEP THE ENGINE COOL WHILE SYNCHING.

 

Another thing with the BB sync and the bottle ones is that you have multiple joins in the tubing - increasing your chances of having leaks that will render the tool useless.

With the single tube the only joins are at the manifold. K.I.S.S. method works best here.

 

Schooter, once they get close you only turn the screws a
tiny bit at a time, just like pilot screws.
maybe 1/8 or 1/4 turn one way or the other to fine tune it in.
And you need to blip the throttle as you set them, sometimes
they set quick,sometimes it takes a while.
Good luck!

 

Single stretch of tubing, stick, ATF and some tie-wraps eh? Works for me! Thanks again xjbikes.com.

Oh yeah, what size tubing should we get again?

 

Use 2 pieces of tubing, a couple "T"s to connect them at the bottom and you can do all four at once.

 

I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to address this issue.

back in the days of carbureted automobiles. when I was studying automotive tech a local technical skills center for teens. the teacher demonstrated the proper way to decarbon the cylinders of a running engine by pouring a glass (about 8 or 10 ounces) of water down the throat of the carb. this was done gradually and with the engine revving. this is important so as to not hydraulic lock the engine.

what I am trying to say is, that it won't hurt to get a little water in the engine, so long as you don't hydraulic lock it.

in the future I may do this to my bikes to decarbon the upper cylinders. if and when I do, i will shoot a video and post it up.

CN

 

I'd like to see how you will do that! You will probably have to remove the air boots and spray the water through the carb intakes...

 

I did this. Removed the air filter and misted water out of a spray bottle.

Be very careful. Small pistons may hydro lock much more easily.

The trick is to aerate the water as much as possible.

 

I am thinking a syringe of water hooked up the the vacuum sync ports one at a time.

CN

 

i talked to a old timer once ( to me a old timer is OLD ) , he said back in the flat head days they would throw uncooked rice in the carb to de-carbon the heads. he didn't call it de-carbon, he said "de-coke".
if you suck water with a two bottle setup, you have too much water in the bottles