The Koolaid Project

Alright... some of you may have seen the bike already from my thread in the general section. Well, I got the bike home now, so I guess I'll start a build thread of sorts. There won't be too much building going on right away, but I'll keep this updated and use the thread to ask questions and get some ideas from you guys since you all have much more experience than I do with these bikes.

Here are a few pics when I got home with it yesterday....

 

I lined the tank today while I was rebuilding my deck, so I should have it back on and ready to see if I can get this thing started up on Thursday. Unless I get impatient and end up hooking up the aux tank I have to it tomorrow

Let me know what you guys think of the bike and what direction you think I should go in with it. I originally was thinking hardtail or lowering struts until I could get it hard tailed, bobber seat, z-bars, different exhaust or just the stock exhaust cut a bit, different tank or just adjust this one a bit. Round headlight in the front, smaller turn signals, and forward controls.

I'm used to sportbikes and the seat on this thing is COMFY! It made me reconsider chopping and bobbing it eh..... I don't know what I want to do now. I was also thinking of being able to carry a passanger, so I can give my kids rides now and then. They love it...

 

cool bike
start it, ride it, it will come to you
best of luck, will keep watching

 

looks great good luck

 

Yeah man that looks awesome. Love those 750s. Not so much the lights and bars and instrument cluster on em, but the body is sleeeek Those headers look in great condition. Chrome looks good on er.
Good luck man! She'll be a fun project

 

That Bike will run a whole lot better just leaving it Stock and Cleaning and preparing the Carbs to be as Tuned-up and set-up for Maximum Performance.

With you knowing how to Tweak it to keep it on the hairy-edge of giddy-yap-'n-go!

 

nice find, look in my gallery
you think that seat is comfy ? my butt must be getting soft

 

Great score! There is something to be said for keeping it original but I never cared much for the crotch rocket look, (I'm 56) I do like the bobber look but to me function comes first. I think that if you can afford to have the rear shocks repositioned you'd get a lower bike and more travel too. The side covers are a real sore spot with me, they do look better with them I think but they're poorly designed. (mine blew off in a 50 mph cross wind). Its your bike what turns you on?, That's what to do.

 

May be do what vegabob says, get it on the road and ride it for a while. Let the bike tell you wat mods to do.

But if she's not talking to ya here are some suggestions

Strech the bike 4 or 5 inches (that would involve lenghtening the drive shaft.)

Maybe rake the front some(don't know what would be best there) I know its been over done.

Remove the air box and make a PVC 'airbox' with two pod filters going back where the old airbox was.

Handle bars - almost anything except those stock adjustables (there on my 82 and I am not a big fan of them) personally not a fan of ape hangers either.

Tank - well I doin't know. I realy don't like the penut tanks but I don't like the look of most seca tanks either. That your on your own.

Ultimatly you have to decide what you like. Your the one who is going to ride it.

Good luck with it.

Edited:
**********************Disclaimer ***************************
This post is not indorsed by this forum.
DO NOT ATTEMPT to re-engineer the bike with out knowing what you are getting your self into. Removing the airbox WILL cause baldness (from pulling your hair out because the bike will not run correctly). Stretching or raking the bike will change how it handles (it will be more like a Harley at best at worst un rideable 8O ). This is BAD advice.
PLEASE DO NOT ATTEMT ANY MODIFICATIONS THAT ARE BEYOND YOUR SKILL LEVEL. (I always thought that was a given)

 

Superbike Bars...sporty but still comfortable. Good lookin bike.

 

Stretching the Bike 4 or 5 Inches would involve considerably MORE than lengthening the Drive Shaft, now ... wouldn't it?

Suggesting a New Member do anything to the Geometry of the Bike is the SECOND worst piece of advice to suggest.

Removing the Airbox and altering the Intake Air Design to someone who has just acquired an XJ Bike is the #-1 WORST suggestion to make.

You got NO BUSINESS making a "Remove Airbox" suggestion without some warning or discussion on Tuning, something like the ... One Minute and 47 Seconds of Mandatory Legal Disclaimer ... that is required by Law, after they tell you that taking CHANTIX will help you quit smoking.

You may experience decreased performance.
Some airbox removers have needed to rejet.
A loss of Mid-range pick-up might occur.
Some studies showed a Lean Condition unable to correct.
Some hesitation and the inability to achieve full power has been reported.
Many who remove airbox become depressed over their Bikes lack of performance and the inability to restore fine tuning.

 

Sorry Rick, I did forget to add the disclaimer.

KoolAid5 seemed intelligent enough to do his research before attempting any mods. I was jus giving Ideas. I know other Newbes may read the post and not be so diligent then blame the site for suggesting it. Thanks for covering me.

 

dump the goofy a$$ lights and atari looking gauges and it'll look more respectable to start with. otherwise just enjoy riding it this season and mod the pi$$ out of it during the winter months.

 

Ya that last pic really makes it look like it has a big plastic tumor on its forehead. Other than that it looks like a great bike to start with.

 

Yea, even I kept the stock airbox, which is pretty amazing considering how much I modified everything else, lol. It works really well and if it ain't broke.........

My XJ 650 will do 72 mph in 2nd gear still pulling strong. Haven't seen one with pod filters that could do that without nosing over.

 

Ha! Comfy my axe. My last bike was a Townie 21/Electra beach cruiser hybrid. (That's a bicycle) and I installed a narrow mountain bike seat. I don't like squishy seats and I'm 56 years old. A firm seat provides more feedback.
I narrowed and sectioned the seat on my XJ. I eliminated the passenger section and took a serrated carving knife and scalloped the part where my butt sits down lower but reinforced it with some high quality carpet padding and recovered it. It appears lower now but the handling remains the same (exc. 11 1/2" eye to eye Showa shocks).
The biggest problem with the stock air box system is the inlet is too small and the stock filter is restrictive. A box knife and a better filter can correct those things. If you plan on getting a lot of miles out of the engine, the stock breather hose going to the air box is a good system because it only allows well filtered air into the crankcase and blow by is recaptured and goes back through the intake to be consumed rather than spit out on the road. Its proven to add 10\s of thousands of miles to the bottom end of the engine. I added a trap to mine so at high rpm/s the excessive oil doesn't spit out of the factory drain tube(which is also located attached to the stock air box and onto the pipes and tire. I have stock exhaust up to the dual outlets under the bike then step up to 1 5/8-1 3/4 open pipes then at the tips I have cones necked back down to 1 5/8 ID. Like 650 rigid, mine pulls strong in 1, 2 &3 up to till rev limiter cuts in around 9500 rpm's.
The rake is still adjustable about 2" by use of the stock air forks but I just leave them at 0 because I ride inner city and busy freeways 90% of the time so handling is more important to me than ride.
Drag Racing taught me that the length of the footprint is quite important just like width, and since our "shafties" are limited due to the drive shaft and its cover, I passed on the idea of installing a 16" rear wheel and kept the 18" Handling is now better part in part to reduced ride height without altering the suspension geometry much. I use a 110/90x19 front and a 130/80x18 on back. I measured the clearance and realize that a 140 will probably fit on my 750 but it would be very close.
I can't and won't tell what to do with yours but I only know what I've done with mine. It's loud, its fast, it handles well, and it's paid for 8) .

 

Project bikes tend to change directions as you go. So do what makes you happy cause in the end you will be the one riding it.

Great looking bike to start with. Look forward to seeing the transformation.

 

Woa, I like that 1100. I logged back on because I remembered if you should decide to chopperize it, AME advertises that they have a triple tree pre-raked at 7* over stock as a bolt on, with stock forks it lowers the bike 60mm (2 3/8") in front and its approved by the German auto club up to top speed of the bike but you won't be able to carve any canyons with it.

 

WOW! It's like the vision in my head jumped onto the screen. I looked at your gallery and your bike is VERY close to what I was thinking of when I picked this bike up. Do you have a build thread? I love the seat, tank, and rear fender. Did you get those struts made or what? What are you using for gauges? The only thing I'm not sure of are the handlebars... I'm not sure if I want to go the drag bars route or go with some z-bars. I'm not going to decide that until I get the seat and rear suspension sorted out. Then I'll decide where I want my hands while riding.

Thanks to all of you for the feedback, advice, and encouragement. I am planning on fixing up the tank today and hopefully getting it installed tomorrow and attempting to fire the bike up. This project is going to be very slow going, but I'm in no hurry. I also have to get the oil leaks on my '90 gsxr 1100 cleared up, so I can have that as my daily rider.

Thanks again....keep the advice and suggestions coming.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SLVR-YEL ... ccessories

This is my exact shock from the same seller I bought mine from. They are a good deal. I was leary at first but after recieving and installing I definately recommend. Cheapest way to lower and save your back.

 

Thanks a lot brawler. I'm buying them now. I figure for $15 even if they suck it's not that much of a gamble.

I guess if I install these I won't need those struts, huh? I just need to get that seat done. Maybe I can attempt to do one myself .....hhhhmmmm

 

The auction is only for one shock make sure to get 2

 

Yeah, I realized that after I posted that it only cost $15. I sent the guy a message letting him know I want two and asked him if he could cut me a deal on the shipping. I also asked him if he has any with different color springs. I'd rather have black. I'm not digging the yellow. Red or Blue might not be too bad if they were darker colors and not so bright.

 

Brawler... if you were going to make me that seat how long until you could get around to it?

 

Ok, I finally got the tank all prepped for paint and if the wind dies down I'll be spraying it here shortly.

The tank isn't in bad shape at all. If it weren't for 3 small dents that I touched up with some spot putty I probably just would have left it bare metal and shined it up a bit.

 

xj's are known to crack in the frame area near the swingarm, below the air box when when the shocks are replaced with rigid struts, I like those shocks too! I think he relocated the mounts but I'll have to look again.
I think moving the filter out of the airbox but keeping a functional air box causes it to act like a plenum full of pre filtered air available for better off idle response. I got the chopper pull backs cheap after my bike was rear ended and sideswiped by a hit & run driver. I planned to use TT bars but I got the bars at a swap meet with a windshield and H.D. turn indicators for $13.

 

right on.... I'm going with the shorter shocks like brawler did. I ordered them today. I eventually would like to hardtail it and stretch it, but this will work for now. I'm out painting the tank now. Just waiting for the 2nd coat of primer to dry. One more light coat of primer and then it's bedliner time

 

Hell yeah! My Jeep is done in bedliner.

 

sweet.... I only did my jeep up to the pin stripe under the door handles. The pics are on the first page of this thread. Are you a member on jeepforum.com ? I have the same name over there.

 

Kool beans, I'd be very leery of the front wheel swap you mentioned. My bike definitely handles better since I installed lower shocks and lowered the seat. In fact besides pushing the front a bit it's almost perfect as is. IF I stretched it it would only be for better passenger comfort, I can come out of the hole and burn rubber in a straight line all the way through first gear and it won't fish tail, the rear end hasn't gone sideways yet even on wet Vegas streets (it seldom rains so the streets get soaked in oil). Traction is a problem, I'd like to move my rear wheel forward about 1 or 2" and stretch the neck and tank about the same.
I have a 110/90x19 front tire and stock wheel, it fills the fender nicely. My fender is bobbed too. My inspiration are the Australian and New Zealand xj750 Police bikes. I'll have a build thread soon myself when it 'looks' right to me, and show and explain the mods I've done and what the results are.
If you happen to run across a fat tire installation kit let me know. Good luck on your bike.
P.S. If you do a tank lift to go with a bobber style seat It'll hold more gas, besides looking cool.

 

Thanks padre...

I just went out and hooked up an aux tank to the bike while waiting for paint to dry on the tank (in between coats). Well.... it fired up after a bit of trying and the motor sounds good. Nothing knocking or anything... the stock exhaust isn't even that bad of a sound for now Well, I couldn't get it to idle at all. I was able to rev it and it sounded strong and no hanging or bogging when I did. I tried adjusting the idle screw both ways with no real change at all. The only way I could keep it running was by keeping the choke on a bit. Now I'm letting it rest for a bit.

Suggestions....advice???

 

Ok....after finding this quote on another thread...

I'm thinking maybe I just didn't give it long enough to warm up and now I probably have my idle screw ALL out of whack Any advice on how to set this for a starting point?

 

Yea, yours looks really good too. I am a member of jeepforum.com although I haven't been there in quite a while.

 

Thanks... I've been neglecting JF since I'm back on a motorcycle kick.

 

I got you two beat. My jeep's front end is walmart rattle can white. It may sctracth but it's $2 to repaint the whole thing.

I've got it on 5.5" lift with 33x12.50's.

 

didn't happen unless there are pics post 'em up.

Speaking of front ends. I replaced my tie rod with one out of a ZJ and that f'er is rusted to shit already. I need to hit it up with a wire wheel and rattle can IT. Maybe I'll do everything under there in red or something.

 

just went out and replaced the throttle cable, but the battery doesn't have enough juice anymore after all the attempted starts. I need to pick up a new charger or trickle charger since mine took a crap on me. Maybe I'll swing by somewhere on the way home from work tomorrow and pick one up. Then I'll be able to install the tank and take her for a spin.

 

My 750 had been abandoned for at least a year when I got it last August, the idle ports were clogged bad enough it wouldn't idle below 3000 or so but ran like a rabid rabbit when the throttle was opened. I took out all four mixture screws and got a can of gummout and stuck the straw into the passages and blew them clear. I rubbed clear silicone around the boots and replaced the old vacum plugs. It idled much better after and I turned it down to about 1300. I added gas treatment 1/3 bottle per tank full a few times and after I I left Long Beach and reached Vegas (by way of route 66 to Laughlin) in October I had to turn it down again. It idles smoothly at 1150 now, not lumpy like a v-twin. If it sounds like a Harley at low RPMs something's wrong.

 

good deal...thanks for the tips padre

 

Uh oh, mine kind of sounds like it has a lumpy idle. Might have to do some more cleaning it sounds like.

 

Come do mine while you're at it. I'm attempting to avoid it at all costs right now

 

Ok, instead of just getting home from work, finishing up with the tank, installing it, and starting this bad boy up for a ride.....what do I do.....??

I pulled the carbs and I'm going to sit in the LR tonight, watch some UFC, and clean the carbs EXACTLY what I was trying to avoid, but the right thing to do. Actually the RIGHT thing would be to tear this whole thing down to the frame and do ALL of the painting right now. Since the plan is to hardtail it in the near/distant future I'll hold off on that urge though.

Ok... SO, taking the carbs off was a BITCH! I need some tips on the best way to get them back in there. I beat up the boots a bit in the process.... oops. I have a question about the doohickeys that connect the carbs to the engine (can't remember what they are called). One of the paper gaskets that was on them tore off. Can I just substitute with some silicone instead? Do normal auto parts stores (O'riley) carry them or am I f'd and have to order some. I REALLY wanted to get this thing together and running tomorrow morning before it has to hide in the shed until I confess to the wife that I bought it Her and the kids get home tomorrow around dinner time.

That's another reason I should just tear it down to the frame. Then she wouldn't be able to tell the difference between IT and the project I already had parts for

 

getting the carbs out is easy... for me taking them out takes like 4 minutes... its taking the clamps off that wastes time...

but getting them in... hoo boy!

something that helps, is if you take the air box boots and push them into the box, a lip holds them in place... you'll see what i mean when you do it.

and you're going to want to fix those intake boot leaks... or else you'lll never get it to ru right and it may blow up

 

but I should be able to just slap some silicone on it to seal it up, right?

Yeah, I was reading a lot about reinstalling carbs last night. I read that if you do it your way it's a BITCH to get the boots back out of the air box. The way I was GOING to try is to flip the end of the boots back on itself (inside out ) to make room for the carbs. Then after I get them in just flip the end right onto the carbs SOUNDS easy....right? hahahahaha

I'll be attempting the reinstall within the next hour. I need to just go with individual pods, new exhaust, and a stage 3 jet kit. I'll have to start saving up. I looked last night and the cheapest dynojet kit I could find was freakin $110. That's crazy talk

 

Ok, I got the carbs put back on. I don't know what some of you are complaining about. It really wasn't that hard. Just flip the lip of the boots that attaches to the carbs back over itself (inside out). Then slide the carbs in and to help get them seated in the intake boots spray some silicone on it (aka pledge ). They pop right in and then you just have to flip the air box boots back. They flip right around the carbs and poof.... you're done. EXCEPT for the part that takes the longest.... screwing in the little clamp doohickeys. Really relatively painless though.

Now I just got done touching up the paint on the gas tank and installing the pet cock and float. I'm going to give that about another hour to dry before installing it. I WOULD be able to fire up the bike, but it seems that the battery charger/tender I picked up the other day is SHITE! It doesn't do squat. I need to take it back. I'll do that tomorrow.

 

!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

why havent i heard/thought of that method.

 

I don't know. I read it on here somewhere. I was going to do it the pushing back into the airbox method, but I pushed them in and saw how shitty it was trying to work them out WITHOUT the carbs in place, so I figured it would be a COMPLETE bitch with them in there.

With the boots nice and warm from washing them in hot water they flipped inside out a lot easier. I also read on here that some put them in boiling water to make them more plyable, but hot water was good enough for me.

 

alright... I pulled the battery from my 4-wheeler and hooked the auxilary tank back up to see how this thing is running now that I cleaned the carbs and checked everything out.... WELL.... at first I got it to idle GREAT! but with it like that if I just barely gave it any gas it would surge up to 5-6k, hang, and then come back down. POOP! I started messing around with stuff (not really familiar with any carbs other than the ones on my gsxr) and NOW I can't get it to idle, but it's not surging like it was. I need some help here.

Oh, and I seafoamed the gas and oil. I probably should have waiting, but I got excited

 

Oh...and here is the finished tank. I want to get the bike running right befor the tank goes back on though, so I need to get this crap figured out ASAP!

 

and here is a vid from when it was surging, but still idling fine. It looks like I'm twisting the throttle a lot in the vid, but I'm really just barely blipping it. It's just surging like a bastard. Hurry up and give me some advice here. The wife is on the way home from PA as I type. I only have about another hour or two before the Seca gets covered up in the shed

http://s79.photobucket.com/albums/j147/ ... urging.flv