Wolf Bobber Build (pics)

Fist of all Wolf is my last name i just thought it would be good to differentiate from a generic title...

I suppose this is a weak attempt at starting a build thread for my xj650 maxim bobber. The bike is a 1982 Yamaha XJ650 Maxim with 35,000 miles.

A quick briefing: I have done all the typical stuff such as strip all the old gaudy 80's flair from the bike. I have fully restored the gas tank, front brake caliper, master cylinder, tc bros drag bars, tx bros grips and throttle, la rosa seat 12" springer seat, awaiting hard tail chop this weekend.

Here is where it all goes down hill, i chopped out the stock airbox and installed pods but i left on the stock exhaust for the time being.

I took her out for the first time today. The initial run was glorious. We rode for about 45 minutes and she pulled hard the whole way. I was getting minor pops when i released the throttle which i was expecting anyway due to the leanness caused by the pods. After stopping for a burger she didnt want to start again, we jumped it and it fired up for about 2 miles until during cruising speed (55mph) she started slowing down and eventually stalled. I towed her home. Man was it cold today.

I am planning on rebuilding the carbs but will determine their condition after i rejet. The carb rebuild will take place this winter. I am reading through all these threads of pods and rejetting and finding soo much good information.

In the mean time is there a pods sticky or faq that centralizes all these pod threads? I think it would really help everyone in finding information. I feel like every time i use the search i am bombarded with a new volley of loosely connected threads. In the meantime here are some pics...








This one is a pic from today...yeah thats my plate in my bag what of it???

 

wow, hahah. the plate in the bag is classic. I'd love to see you explain that to a cop here in PA. it would be funny. Nice looking chop so far.

 

There's not because every bike is different. Some put pods on and do nothing to the carbs and report a fine runnning machine. Others struggle to find the right tuning.

Nice looking build. Take a look at your plugs. Any Silver specs?

Before you get to tuning with jets make sure your carbs are clean, all the way clean, and your valves are in spec. Otherwise you'll be wasting your time changing jets.

Also get your exhaust sorted prior to beginning your tuning as this will also have and effect.

 

Sound advice about the exhaust. Ill take care if that next week. I was gonna go with 4 to 2's with baffels and tapered ends.

Does anyone have any advice as to why she stalled while cruising? Also during the jump the battery started boiling, i could see bubbles rising within the plastic. After i disconnected and reconnected it stopped.

Thanks,
Travis

 

You're probably over charging the battery if it was boiling.

What did you jump it with? If you provide it too many amps you can fry it too.

 

It was wih my buddy's cbr 600.

As for the stalling, it seemed like it wasnt getting fuel but it rode fine for an hour prior to stopping. I did just rebuild the petcock but died on the on position as well as the prime position.

 

What do the spark plugs look like?

 

They were brand new before the first ride yesterday. Ill takr them out and post pics when i get home around 1pm today. Thanks for the help

 

Test the flow of the petcock into a container. That also tests the vent in the cap. A Russian Race Horse should come to mind.

Put some shotgun shells in the frame ends !!

If your bike ran fine then ran bad, the problem could even be electrical components getting hot, but most likely, something's up in the carbs.
How does it run when cold??

 

If his battery is boiling he maybe fried something else as well. That just came to mind.

 

I boiled for 10 seconds and stopped as soon as i disconnected jumpers then reconnected and it stopped. I will also test petcock when i get home. How do i test on position if the bikes not on? Gas cap vents are good, it leaked gas whenbi flipped the tank upside down when removing

 

Turn it to PRI and fuel should run out. If you have a vacuum pump you can draw a vacuum on the vacuum line and test it in the on/res positions. Alternately grab the vacumm line from teh valve and use it like a straw. If you taste gas your petcock is leaking into the vacuum line.

 

yep, check valve clearances and have your exhaust already on that you want, so you have a as close to new engine as possible as well as the exhaust you will be running so you can tune them to it

 

Capn my my kinda guy. Bikes in the HOUSE !!!! Bikes looking good

 

Ok guys, i checked the petcock. Prime flows freely. Reserve flows when i suck on the vacuum tube. On does not flow when i suck on the vacuum tube. Does it require more suction than i can provide with my mouth? I just rebuilt the petcock the other day using the aftermarket kit supplied by chacal. Doesnt reserve and on operate using the same vacuum system? Also i did not taste gas while sucking on the vacuum line.

Also I checked all four plugs. please see pics and tell me what they tell you. thanks.

Plug # 1


Plug # 2


Plug # 3


Plug # 4

 

Your fuel valve should use the same ammount of vacuum both on and res. So you've got a problem there.

Plug #2 looks pretty good. 1,3 and 4 are either rich or you're burning oil. Have you done a compression check on that motor?

at the last carb clinic I did with a couple guys from here we had 1 plug look like 1,3 and 4 and the cylinder only had 100 psi compression while the other 3 where in the 140's. You may have 3 weak ones and one strong one.

 

i will run a compression test asap. I will also remove the petcock and inspect the problem with the on valve. Any idea what that could be? clogged? the tank has gone through the three step POR 15 process and it is fresh gas so i dont see how it could be clogged.

 

How's the filter screen on it look? The white or yellow/orange tower depending on it's age. Maybe the ON section is plugged. I've yet to take my petcock apart so I don't really know on that.

 

Filter is brand new

 

looks like 1, 3, and 4 are pig rich. 2 is borderline lean (although it may just be the coloring on my computer screen.)

 

How can it e running rich with pod filters and stock exhaust? I think its oil but power is good so maybe not a leaky head gasket

 

All bikes are differnt. No two are alike as for tuning them it seems. My bike is very happy with open pods, and LONG straight pipes. It loves the stock jets.

 

Couple things come to mind. 1. As Cmccully said all bikes are different. 2. Are you sure they're stock jets to start with? Could have been drilled out even if the numbers match. 3. you alititude and weather conditions have an effect on your mix as well.

Either way I'd get a compression reading and verify a healthy motor before I go chasing my tail on tuning it up.

 

i just ran a compression test but im not sure about the accuracy of the autozone kit i rented. here are the numbers... 1-4 respectively 100 95 60 and 96.

I just took the bike out for a ride again and she was running pretty good. although a bit up a drop off at about 50mph no stalling tho.

also, what does it mean when the bike runs fine and all electrical works but when i shut her off it wont crank? all lights on but nothing starter wise. when i connect my jumper box the lights get brighter and it starts right up.

thanks. hardtail coming this friday, stay tuned for pics.

 

I would be looking for a motor before I hardtail it.

Those numbers are all low (if the gauge was good) and not very close to each other, even if the gauge was bad. That 60 is very concerning. It will never tune right and is certainly running at less than optimum perfromance. The 60 cylinder may even drop out from time to time.

These motors are supposed to be around or above 140 psi (IIRC) depending on altilitude and temp.

Mine did 145+/- across all 4 on an autozone gauge.

 

ok i have some updates, first of all what is the proper way to perform a compression test? i read on a thread here that you have to open the throttle all the way while the psi reader is attached. It was my understanding that you simply attach the gauge, crank it for at least 3 cycles and repeat at least 3 times and take the highest reading, no throttle involved.

now after a few rides all four plugs are white indicating a lean ratio (expected with pods installed and stock exhaust).

One more clue, when i pull the boot off from the top of the plug there is black soot on the white insulator on the plug. where is this black soot coming from and why?

Also, when i screw in the threaded part of the compression reader into the plug threads it is loose, it threads on fine but even when its all the way tight i can still wiggle the connection. this leads me to believe that this is the wrong adapter for my bike, the autozone compression tester only came with this one fitting. I believe this is why my readings are so low. if its the wrong connector and not forming a tight seal i can be losing pressure through this location.

iwingameover thank you for your support.

 

i am still planning on going ahead with the hardtail tomorrow. my guy is only charging 40 bucks an hour and wants me to be there to help and get welding lessons while im there. its too sweet of a deal to pass up. I figure i can find a parts engine if the engine truly is bad (which i do not believe it is).

Also, i gave her a badly needed oil change today with new filter. The old oil was so dark and thick. I will give her another one after a few hundred miles.

 

proper compression test:

Get a gauge that fits. I bought mine from Advance, came with 3 fittings, hose and gauge.

Remove all plugs to save some effort on the starter. UNPLUG TCI. Don't want to fry it by having ungrounded leads. (leave it unplugged/removed while you're welding)

Put tester on 1 cylinder, hold throttle wide open, crank until the needle stops going up. Maybe 8 revs. Record number then repeat for each cylinder.

Numbers should be close across all cylinders and the higher the better.

For you plugs are your wires making a good contact onto the top of the plug? Could be arcing and burning part of the boot. Or maybe the boot is crumbling. Maybe new boots are in order.

 

I believe they are making good contact, they seem pretty tight on there. it is soot, when i wipe it away it smears. must be arcing. I will buy new ones.

Ill have to locate a better fitting compression tester and retest following your guide. thanks man

one more thing. Its always rough to switch into first from neutral on first start. I have to stomp pretty hard and then i can feel it pop into gear. while standing still the bike shutters when the shifter lever is stomped into first. during riding its not noticeable. do i have to adjust my clutch cable? thanks

 

Id go with the easiest fix first. Turn the mix screws in a little on the black plugs... out on the white plug.
That looks like black soot not oil.

 

Check you local Advance Auto for the gauge. They don't rent them but I'm sure mine was only about $25-$30. Or sears, or even Harbor Freight if you have one.


Probably a clutch cable adjustment. I won't hurt to start there either way.

 

by the looks of the plugs if the compression is better i would say bad plug caps wires ect check them all with an ohm meter . # 1 is probably showing so rich because it doent have a hot spark. replace that plug also and make sure they are all gapped to specs. swap plug wires if you can with the other coming out of that coil see if it clears up. you could just have a bad plug. they dont have the hottest ignition coils in the world thats why the hot ticket is to put dynas on it you know chacal can fix you up with any parts you need.
the rough going into gear you might need to ajust the clutch but its more likely just because the oil is cold and the clutches are stuck together. if the bike is running lean its really hard on the oil since its trying to dissapate heat changing oil might help. if you have ever had a heavy duty barnett clutch they are a real bugger when they are cold putting in gear soon as they warm up they work great

 

Have you run into any issues with running pod filters instead of the air box? I am putting pods on during my rebuild and could really use some first hand advise. Your bike looks great, hope my build goes that well

 

scizor,

yeah it doesnt run the greatest but it is still ridable while you work on it. She wont want to idle without the choke on to enrich the fuel. Also its a good idea to keep the stock exhaust on while you have the pods. the back pressure will aid in keeping the bike running just ok. Also wrap the pods with blue painters tape to cover about 90% of them. This will aid in restricting the air flow while you ride until you can clean and rejet your carbs.

I ride it alot in this set up right now and she starts right up every time and idles around 700-1000rpms with a little choke. I still get alot of pops in the exhaust while reving down or letting off the throttle but this is to be expected while running these pods.

hope that helps.

 

UPDATES

For all of those out there who have been following or care about the bobber community here at xj bikes i have some great updates.

I had the hardest time in october finding a welder that was reliable and reasonable. After much effort i found a guy but he kept blowing me off so i let it go. Then one day in class i was bitching to a friend about how i couldnt find a welder and another student approached me and said he had a welder and converted his katana into a street fighter.

Needless to say we became friends and before long i had my bike at his house and we both were working on it. Here are the pics of the process:








this is not how i am going to mount the starter relay. it was just a mock up. I have a project box from radio shack that the relay and the fuse box will be mounted inside of.

 

ok here are some pics that bring the bike to its current state. I still have to work on the wiring for the blinkers and get the electronics inside the project box and mounted next to the battery. i also have to finish the body work on the rear fender and paint it but for all intents and purposes its done.

enjoy:










also i have to fab up an aftermarket exhaust and wrap that with header wrap too. i am also considering selling my spedo and tach assembly so if anyone is interested shoot me a pm with a price including shipping. i have bar end mirrors in the mail and still have to paint the front forks and rear fender. its too cold out not to get anything done. Ill have to bring it back in the dining room to work on the electrical after this semester is over.

thats all the updates i have for now. feel free to give me any suggestions.
thanks guys. this forum is awesome!

 

IMHO...LOOKIN' GOOD!!!

skillet

 

thanks, my buddy brian did an amazing job. exactly what i was looking for. hes got a great creative ability. we need to find him an old xj to bob now.

 

Look's great, I like how you mounted the seat and I have to say one of the best hardtail mods I've seen. :twisted:

 

good deal man

 

Was it a big deal for the placement of the rear tank mount? Really like your seat (and placement). Did you fab the seat?

skillet

 

wow

 

hey guys, sorry i have been away. The winter has taken me away from my bike but i have brought it back out and have been riding it for the past two weeks.

Skillet, no the seat is a don la rosa original. cost me a pretty penny on ebay but got a great deal on it. Its my favorite part of the bike.

The rear tank mount was easily fabbed as we used most of the original parts. My buddy is a fabrication master.

I have since had the rear fender painted and will be installing a custom exhaust in the next few weeks.

I crashed my car last week so this bike has already paid for istelf in emergency rides while i wait for car parts in the mail.

 

That seat is NICE. Glad you got a welder you could work with and a new friend. Everything is lookin' good. Was wondering about placement of the rear fender. It looks good sittin' there but have you had problems with water from the road being thrown up on your electrics???

skillet

 

The fender is the only thing im thinking about changing. Im considering moving it back to cove more tire, what do you guys think?

As of right now it does sling water and mud but im working on modifying the original plastic portion of the stock fender into a mud guard and attach it somehow.

Ill try to get some updated pics. Im also going to remove the guages

 

Looks good so far. One thing about these bikes is your never really done when it comes to making changes/mods!!

 

I could use a little advice. i have been riding the bike daily and learning more about it. Currently i am running 70% taped off pods with stock exhaust. I am getting very few to no back fires but havent checked plug colors yet. The only indication of something wrong with fuel/air mixture is that it wants to stall and sometimes does on deceleration when nearing a stop. I usually have to tinker with the choke to keep it from staling during idle and when i find that sweet spot its fine. THe hardtail is a blast to ride and she is pretty peppy. I think i may be a little big for it 6ft at 180lbs but its somewhat of a rat looking thing anyway and leaning into corners while accelerating out is fun. I have noticed that in 2nd gear it feels like something is rubbing in the differential and feels a little bogged down. i also get a vibration that feels like the same area. Does anyone know what this might be? Needs new gear oil?

I am waiting to install a custom exhaust 2 or 2.5 inch pipes 4 to 2s running in same format as factory pipes. I realize i have to rejet and tune which my buddy will help me with.

What i would like to know is if there is anyone with experience with a similar setup and what they did to get it to run nicely.

Also i have rebuilt the master cylinder and caliper with new seals and pads but front brake is still soft. Rear foot brake must travel a few inches before it engages.

Any advice anyone can offer is much appreciated.

 

The front brakes on these bikes are supposedly pretty spongy. Try stainless braided lines and go back and re-bleed the system. You can also adjust the rear brakes. I don't have my manual in front of me but I'm pretty sure you just adjust the nut on the brake "rod" until the pedal travel before engagement is appropriate. I think about .75-1" is about right.

 

To adjust the rear brake, just turn in the nut on the back of the brake rod while spinning the rear wheel. When the wheel stops spinning, turn the nut back out 1 turn or so until the wheel spins free. As long as the brake shoes aren't dragging you should be good to go.

 

went for my first 4 hour ride on tuesday. it was a beautiful sunny spring day at 80 degrees. i snapped a few pics. we went up 7 into washington ct. around Mohawk mountain and down past kent falls.












i still have to rejet, replace gauges with single mini speedo, upgrade to stainless front line, replace clutch and brake levers, strip and rewire some electrics, and paint front forks. but she is getting close to where i want her.

what do you guys think?