Bolt to remove oil filter case is stripped (almost)

Hey guys. I was in the process of an oil change. i took the bottom oil drain plug out fine. Anyways, the bolt above, where there is that metal case where the oil filter goes, the nut wasn't looseining at all. I tried alot and the nut just kept getting in worse and worse shape. Now there is still some nut left, but it's in pretty bad shape, with no signs of loosening. Is there some trick to this that I am unaware of? what size nut is this just so i can be sure i'm using the right size. I wanted to get a fresh oil change done so I could soon try the startup, but it looks like i may be out of luck and have to use the slimey filter that is stuck in it. «I dunno :?:

 

FWIW, I had this problem with my XJ650, the PO had rounded the bolt head pretty badly. I did everything I could do to get the bolt out but the PO had really gone way overboard in tightening it down.

In the end I was able to get it off using a very small and snug seating pipe wrench & a small breaker bar (pipe over the wrench handle).

By the time I did that I had rounded the head even more so I bought a large SS nut and ground the head small enough to get the nut screwed on. I then filled the air gaps between the nut & rounded head with JB weld & when all was cured I ran a small hole through the nut & ran a clevis pin into it to hold it in place & made everything flush so a wrench would fit on it perfectly.

Maybe a bit of overkill but it works.

 

Have you tried vice grips?

Dont give up, it sucks when it happens but it certainly is not the end of the world. Everyone it seems has the same problem happen to them. There are a lot of options to get it out.

First off, order yourself a new bolt so you can replace it as soon as you have it out.

Worst situation- you may have to have a welder weld a nut on it in order to get it off, should be about 20 dollars or so.

 

Many ways to remove, a six point socket is the tool you should be using on all the fasteners but if its to late for that there is a tool called a bolt extractor http://amzn.to/fNXFlP
the small pipe wrench with cheater bar sounds good they make some real small ones total length is 6" on this one http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/PROTO- ... Pid=search
I have used a 12 point socket that is just barely is too small and tapped it on with a hammer

 

Too late now unless you can force a 12 point socket into the hex but this is the essential tool for every bike mechanic. This is a canadian supplier but I am sure most tool suppliers have it. If not google "impact driver" you should be able to locate a local supplier. The screw driver bits can be replaced by a socket.


http://www.princessauto.com/view-all-pr ... ct++driver

 

Maybe your PO thought the manual said 115 ft-lbs instead of 11.5 ft-lbs. LOL

If you're asking the question then it's probably too late to tap a smaller SAE socket onto it.

If you try the vise grips remember to get them REALLY tight....then tighten them down even more.

They do make pipe wrenches as small as 4" that I have used on rounded motor bolts before with success. They're just not easy to find.

If you use the bolt extractor waldo suggested let us know how it works...might be worth buying to have around.

The welded nut trick works too, just use a good size automotive nut.

And Raven is right, no matter what you do to get the bolt out DON'T re-use it. Check XJ4ever, I think Len has them for 7 or 8 bucks.

Oh, btw, I believe the original filter bolt has a 19mm head, drain plug is 17mm.

 

I've used bolt extractors on them. Pretty good tool for this job.

The stock filter bolt is 12mm. Chacal sells a replacement bolt with a larger head. Of course if they aren't over torqued to begin with a 12mm head is plenty........

 

I successfully used a hammer and large chisel. Gave it an impact effect. I got it to move about an 1/8 in, then used small vise grips. But +1 on the impact driver. Someday I will get one and stop using hammers and chisels.

 

be careful with the impact driver as what you are hitting into (the engine) is 20 some year old aluminum and the possibility (altho probably scarce) exists that you could crack the aluminum the bolt threads into, then, well, you have more work to say the least.

I don't know if chacal has them for your bike, but I have the filter conversion for my x on my bike...it utilizes an external oil filter with no bolt...pretty neat stuff.

 

If it gets too rounded off, go somewhere and have a nut tack-welded on so you can get it loose, then replace it.
(Be sure to unplug your TCI unit if you have this done.)

The thing you're trying to loosen is a special hollow bolt; you can also cut/grind the head away enough to free the filter housing then the remains of the bolt will just unscrew.

 

Rather than pay someone to weld a nut on it go ahead and get a set of bolt extractors. You'll have them to use next time.....

AutoZone sells this set for $25 in my local store:


I'm not sure if the link will work without the right cookies (you need to select a store for pricing) but HERE it is.

 

thanks guys...I will try to get this on the roll

 

OOHHH. Old guy want. (I love tools.)

Thanks, Carl. That's one I wasn't aware of. Good stuff.

I'm changing my response. Get a set of those. And I would get one good and wedged on, and hit it with an air wrench.

 

I've cut a slot on the head (or what is left of it) with a hacksaw blade and used an impact wrench on it successfully twice now. I LOVE your solution MiCarl, much easier and cleaner. Great suggestion.

 

My in-laws gave me a similar set for Christmas a few years back. Until I opened them I had no idea there was any such thing.

 

even after seeing the pictures i have no idea what they are or how they work. I'm sure they must be handy though

 

Yeah, picture isn't very obvious.

They're like an inside out screw extractor. The opening is cone shaped with aggressive left hand flutes. As you turn it to remove a bolt or stud it just keeps biting harder and harder until the thing breaks free.

 

So how's it got it over these, they get tighter the more pressure you use.

 

Here's a link to a pic of the "business end." http://www.acetoolonline.com/product-p/irw-53906.htm

Apparently they're available individually. I would really only need a 12mm, 14mm and 19mm.

The big advantage over the pipe wrench, Wiz, is access.

 

I think all the suggestions are spot on..

I have a LAST RESORT method...


Had the same thing, nothing would make that damn bolt turn. Pipe wrench, channel locks, vices, notta. I was about ready to take the torche to it when I saw my oil fiter wrench nearby. Got an idea.... The oil sump had some fins broke off, so I was going to replace it anyway. I took a small chisel to the notch at the top and broke it off. Wrapped my oil filter wrench around the sump, gave it a crank, and it turned! Bolt and all.

Found a new sump on ebay, new bolt, all is well in XJ world... i.e. don't try this one first! Try the bolt remover and all the other suggestions! This is rather extreme!

 

The big advantage over the pipe wrench, Wiz, is access. <quote>

No problem on the oil filter bolt.

 

The problem I usually have with pipe wrenches is "Murphy's Pipe Wrench Law" which reads:

"At the instant the jaws of the pipe wrench begin to really bite into the object to be turned the end of the handle will collide with an immovable obstruction." :wink:

 

I have had success with each of the following suggestions at various times. I have also listed these in the order that I usually follow until one works.

Use a dremel and grind new lands onto the bolt head, and try again with a different socket.

If new lands can't be made well, take a smaller impact socket and seat it on the head with hammer and try again.

If that doesnt work, try welding either an extra socket or a nut onto the head and try again.

If that doesnt work, use a cutting burr and grind the head completely off of the bolt and the housing will pop free. Grab the remaining bolt assembly with a good wrench to remove. The threads are all in the oil and will come out easily. New oil bolts are available.

If that doesnt work, break the oil filter housing apart with a hammer and chisel, and grab the remaining bolt assembly with a good wrench to remove. The threads are all in the oil and will come out easily. New oil bolts are available.

Good luck, let us know how things go................

dave

 

Which is a sub-law of "Murphy's Wrench law": "When loosening anything with a wrench the wrench will invariably slip when you are 1.2 ft-lbs from breaking the object loose, thus smashing your knuckles INTO the object that the fastener is stuck in, which is ALWAYS harder and sharper than the skin on your knuckles."

LMAO, maybe that should be an FAQ thread, Murphy's XJ Laws!

 

with risk of making myself look incompetent, I tried the pipe wrench and I have no idea what's wrong, but there is no way to get grip with a pipe wrench. Sockets,regular wrenches, etc get some good grip and slip, but how do i tighten a pipe wrench to get it to tighten the harder I pull. I think i have it tight and it just spins.

 

Maybe this will help, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9F9RarSncQ

 

Make sure you're holding the wrentch the correct way. The opening shoulc be down so you're pushing from the back of the handle. That way, the harder you push (or pull, depending on where' you are standing in relation to the nut) the harder the jaws wil close and grip. Also, make sure the wrench is as snug as you can get, by using the adjusting collar behind the jaws while wiggling and setting the wrench's grip.

Hope that helps.

Dave Fox

 

You've got to pull backward a bit on the handle while you tighten the wrench. Otherwise the head starts out in its tightest position and won't clamp down.

 

Good grief! Pipe wrench on washing machine hoses. I guess it beats just replacing the o-ring.........

 

Does the term "ham fisted monkey" spring to mind?

You position the pipe wrench so that the handle is pulling "toward" the jaws, so it tightens up as it grips.

 

I liked her hat

 

I like the way she caresses the hose with her hand to see if it was wet or not

 

When you get that Oil Filter Bolt out, ... replace it with a New one.

Dress the New one Threads with Anti-Seize Compound.
The threads extend 2.4 cm into the Block.

Grease the O-Ring and Shouldered area with Synthetic Grease.
Torque it to 11 Foot Pounds.

Removal, next time, ... should be quite easily accomplished.

 

Ya i see there are some easily found on the internet for about $15 shipped (to Canada) the only problem is getting it off, hahah. even after watching that hot youtube video I still cant get a pipe wrench to work. Hahah, ah well I have weeks to fight with it until it's good driving weather anyways. The nut keeps getting smaller and smaller and more circle as we go

 

Darth, see what looks like a washer under the bolt head ? well it's part of the bolt, take a cold chisel & a lump hammer, form a detent in that 'washer' & knock it counter clockwise, never fails.

 

It can fail if I am involved.

Thanks I will try that. It is cold out so it's likely not the best situation to be doing this. Is it also good to heat it up?

 

Heat it up, dont go overboard of course. Bang the hell out of it and make the metal vibrate, it sometimes helps to loosen it up.

 

I don't think Hammers and Chisels are the proper course of action.

"Don't do anything that will make a BAD Situation, ... Worse."

You must remove the Header Pipes to be able to get a Pipe Wrench on the Oil Filter Bolt Shoulder.

If you start Chiseling on the thing, ... your likely to put a Crack or a Hole in the Oil Filter Dome.

With the Header Pipes out-of-the-way, ... you can get s Solid Grip on the Shoulder of that Bolt.

Use a length of Pipe on the Wrench Handle to increase leverage.
Apply STRONG Undo Torque to the Pipe Wrench.
Strike the Handle of the Wrench or the Pipe with a Heavy Impact Blow.

Last resorts:

Grind the Shoulder down with an Angle Grinder
Drill the Center of the Bolt until the Shoulder falls off.
Remove the Dome.
Apply the Wrench to the Bolt without the Dome.