1981 650H "Restoration"

Just a rambling post -- and lots of eye candy -- to share my fun (and appreciation for the knowledge on this site) with a mild restoration of a 1981 650H -- has 11k miles before tear down… Some of this stuff is finished, some in-process -- I'll share images as I start to reassemble the bike... Here's what's going on

Stop
New SS front line; New MC; Caliper rebuild and new pads
New front disc rotor
New shoes rear

Go
Pre-tear-down compression - 140 135 135 141
Heads/jugs pulled - Bores and pistons checked - measured (story here -- need to watch your interests) head straightness checked
All new rings and all New valve seals
Lapped valves
Upgrade to Megacycle cams -- part number: 256-00 specs are (I) .354" 254° 108° (E) .354" 254° 108° (stock pistons and springs; mid-range boost; some top-end; best in stock motor - per their site)

Bounce
- Front forks rebuild - progressive springs and all new seals/oil
- Rear - progressive 430 black/chrome... 12.5" shocks as specified and those are 430s but they are not the HDs they are the 4007s (430-4007B) with 70-120lb (the HD's are a heavier spring -- they are 90-130lb)... They are a great feel but how to "lower" I dunno... BTW, if you look around you can find great deals on these
- New Seat

Left-Right:
New Head Bearing (taper bearing set)
New grips -- chrome trimmed

Input:
Carb rebuild: all thoroughly cleaned - 4 new main emulsion jets - all new o-rings and new jets (114 main 42 pilot) --- scratch -- had to move up to 116 Mains -- was still too lean -- removed needle shims
and New Diaphrams from JBM Industries
new emulsion tubes - pistons polished
All new lines; In line fuel filter added
Had a few issues with the carbs:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=34945.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=35068.html
Petcock rebuild
K&N air and oil filter

Output:
Not sure about exhaust changes -- its all in good condition -- I'll probably just polish and put back on....

Spark
Dynacoils and red-wires -- scratch yellow wires

Lighting/Elec:
Lipo battery
LED tail and brake; LED instrument; LED license
New aftermarket turn signals

Cosmetic
Paint tank and Paint side covers (all Corvette yellow) (thanks to the talents of an XJer here)
Badges -- silver leaf to change lettering to chrome (from gold)
Black Paint head/jugs - file fins/polish fin-ends - clear coat (the filing and polishing was harder than I expected)
New seat
Strip all aluminium and polish it - i.e. forks, engine covers, under-seat; pegs, etc. (jeez this is tedious hard work by the way)

Here is a before and I'll post pictures as I progress, the only one to show now is the engine repaint-fin work…

Thanks

Before manslaughter:

This is the bike "Before" - one of the last rides (breakfast stop) late fall this year before tear down -- My friend was (rightly so) showing off his Harley for me...


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Tear down heads -- on what part of the stroke did I mistakenly start journal/sprocket/cam removal?
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Without Mother Jugs there'll be no Speed
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Prep for Forks rebuild and installing new head bearing -- and bye-bye MC

The most difficult part of the jugs/head (JH) was the process to "square off" the fins --- here is what I went through:
I started by chem stripping the JH multiple times with pressure wash between each strip ... I probably stripped/pressure washed them 3 times -- the OEM aluminum paint is REAL tough -- I finally used 3M parts cleaner (spray cans) to ensure it was totally degreased (with paper towel and screw driver to work in all crevases and to get any left over stripper out)...
Next, painted JH black with VHT High-Temp from cans... Let well dry! Then - My first try at squaring off the fins -- didn't go well -- I was too timid with the file and I chipped the paint at the "square" edges I was trying to achieve -- and it was taking Forever to get the fins filed -- I decided to not be so timid and "go after" the fins with a pretty rough rasp/file (to remove enough material to get a decent square edge) which of course chipped the new paint in several spots -- I decided to deal with that later -- I went from a rasp, to a mild file to 100 grit to 220 grit to 600 grit to 1500 grit... At this point I had the polish I wanted on the ends of the well-squared off fins... but how to deal with the chips?
Well, I repainted the JH by completing a "light-spray-over" pointing the can down at, and then "up" at the fin-edges (not straight on) to recover the chips I introduced... Let it Dry well (several days) -- Then I hit the fin ends again with 1500 polishing carefully (the spray-over coat comes right off, but any chips are covered over).... Polish as best as possible -- Then 2 coats of VHT clear and I baked it in a kitchen oven per VHT instructions at 200degrees for one hour.



Rebuilt "After" shot of right fork - springs in all sealed up!

After shot -- all reassembled, new jets, o-rings, etc., before putting the bowls back on

 

Can't wait to see this one finished

 

Looks very nice. I've got some TLC in-process on my XJ650G. Will be ready for spring!

 

Just out of curiousity; if the motor only had 11K on it and was making those kind of compression numbers pre-teardown, why the heck did you mess with it? As in rings, etc. it appears to have been in great shape to begin with, mechanically.

And if you're going through all of this, are you going to split the cases and "pre-emptively" replace the primary chain guide?

 

Hey Fitz, thanks for the reply...

--> Low miles (check), running well (check), owner who can't just "sit on his hands" (no check) AND, at 30 years, I just needed to see what was going on inside the carbs -- and discovered issues (as documented above) -- then took caliper off and couldn't bear the line -- then discovered just how bad the MC was -- Oh, I also had a small leak at #4 front corner at case/jug seam (discovered pinched o-ring there since manufactured).

In short, it's like starting remodeling on an old house -- you just "pull on a wire in an upstairs room" and suddenly discover "foundational issues".

Moreover, oppty. w/Megacycle cams (good deal and didn't have to turn in my original cams, etc.)

Piston rings were at the outside of their gap spec. too... However, I do not plan to split the case.

At what mileage would one expect an issue?

Thanks again

p.s. It'll be stronger? (assuming I don't trash something).

 

Now stop that................you're gonna embarrass a lot of people who have been on here for a long time.

That's some real nice work you're doing there.

Can't wait to see it done.

Was wondering the same thing as Fitzy..............

Dave Fox

PS: btw, you missed the edges of all the fins inside the sparkplug well. lol

 

Argh... I am not sure I want to mess in that tight space... we'll see ---

It was NOT easy to get those results (so far).

Thanks however

 

well.........with all the work you've done, didn't want you to miss a little detail like that. LOL

You DO realize now, that if you don't do that you will forever look at those area and say "I really SHOULD have...........", right?

Dave

 

delete duplicated post

 

You are soooo right ... Ok I'm on it

 

Visually, that engine is looking really, really nice - good work.

 

OK folks, I am glad for the artistry of our friend here on the forum -- Mr. Ravenz07 - who has just sent to me pictures of the just-painted tank and covers.

Ravenz07 has not polished these, they are still drying. Also -- it's a little hard to see, but there is a metal-flek in the clear coat that tempers the yellow a bit and gives it depth in the sun light -- Nice job Ravenz07 and thank you!!

(by the way, keep in mind the badge letters will be silver to make the letters chrome instead of gold -- so the badges will have a black background with silver letters to pick up on the yellow-black-chrome theme I am trying to achieve -- further, the OEM under-tank trim piece has been ordered in blacktoo)

 

I definitely cannot wait to see these installed

 

Two bits of progress this week end -- new spark installed -- and painted and rebuilt caliper (yup, baked it in my wife's oven - do this when no one is home!!)...

I'll work on the heads next week end -- I've already lapped them but I need to install new valve seals, re-spring and insert valves and buckets, etc. -- I also need to get the last of the engine covers off (clutch, main) for polishing before I put the jugs/head back on... Then, the forks, wheel, new brake system (want to leave the front open while reinstalling jugs/head/exchust)... (wish I could send out these remaining parts to be polished -- it's darned time consuming)

YES ... I AM goint to clean that lower case!!!

 

My god is that one sexy paint job, particularly on the engine head and brake caliper! How hard was the paint work? Did you do it yourself or did you get someone else to do the work? Have you had a chance to get the engine up to operating temp yet to check paint durability?

I would also be interested in knowing what paint you went with.. my engine is in need of a fresh coat too

 

Thank you -- The most difficult part of the jugs/head (JH) was the process to "square off" the fins --- here is what I went through:

I started by chem stripping the JH multiple times with pressure wash between each strip ... I probably stripped/pressure washed them 3 times -- the OEM aluminum paint is REAL tough -- I finally used 3M parts cleaner (spray cans) to ensure it was totally degreased (with paper towel and screw driver to work in all crevases and to get any left over stripper out)...

Next, painted JH black with VHT High-Temp from cans... Let well dry! Then - My first try at squaring off the fins -- didn't go well -- I was too timid with the file and I chipped the paint at the "square" edges I was trying to achieve -- and it was taking Forever to get the fins filed -- I decided to not be so timid and "go after" the fins with a pretty rough rasp/file (to remove enough material to get a decent square edge) which of course chipped the new paint in several spots -- I decided to deal with that later -- I went from a rasp, to a mild file to 100 grit to 220 grit to 600 grit to 1500 grit... At this point I had the polish I wanted on the ends of the well-squared off fins... but how to deal with the chips?

Well, I repainted the JH by completing a "light-spray-over" pointing the can down at, and then "up" at the fin-edges (not straight on) to recover the chips I introduced... Let it Dry well (several days) -- Then I hit the fin ends again with 1500 polishing carefully (the spray-over coat comes right off, but any chips are covered over).... Polish as best as possible -- Then 2 coats of VHT clear and I baked it in a kitchen oven per VHT instructions at 200degrees for one hour.

Calipers? Same routine... Important to bake the calipers or new brake fluid will strip your hard work (having spilled any or leaked any on the painted surfaces)

Thanks

 

Oh hey John -- Just saw your location -- I have an office in Philly (not often in town however) -- let's connect on a ride in the spring?

 

Absolutely interested in some riding! It will be a fee months before I am back together and running. Thanks for posting your paint process. I want to redo the engine paint on mine (all black engine on the Midnight) but am nervous about tackling an expensive and time consuming project with little time and funding before riding season.

 

You have some tins needing paint?

 

Only a few parts remain. The fuel tank, turn signal housings, tail light housing, control levers, mirrors, caliper and all the gold accents. Trying to avoid having to repaint the engine - that will depend on how a polished and thoroughly cleaned engine looks in a freshly painted bike.

 

You could always send your tank to me for a good price!

 

Not to hijack this thread, but I think I will be doing the work myself. This project for me is as much about having an awesome old school bike as it is about being able to say I did the work - ALL the work myself. I may contact you for pointers and tips if that is alright. PM me!

 

As soon as I can get these parts finished, I can begin to reassemble... The aluminum stripping/polishing is labor intensive... I am not even sure these are in final shape... More elbow grease!

Also, Zach shipped the tank/covers... So, if I finish the aluminum, I can reassemble and snap a few pics. (May not occur until first week of Feb., I am out of town next week).

Before

After

 

Reassembling... Pistons back on - all new rings, but original pistons --- then jugs, heads dropped on (this was a heck of a work out -- I did it alone -- suggest a friend to guide parts -- probably took me an hour of wiggling and sliding around on my butt -- having a bike bench or elevated rack would help a lot) -- then all torqued down -- new shims are "in the mail" - cams next, front end etc.

Oh, and Raven sent the tank back -- looks GREAT! Thanks Zach

 

Test fit of the newly painted tank and side covers --


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No progress on my bike this week -- BUT -- we are having a great week

Next week end I should start front end reassembly and get engine covers back on...

OFF Topic: We spent the week at Squaw valley -- arrived Saturday night Jan 21 and drove up here from Sacramento airport IN THE SEASON's FIRST SNOW STORM -- drove all the way up RT50 then RT89 along the remote side of the lake ---- HECK of a drive in the blowing snow -- Glad I rented a Ford Expedition -- Had 4 kids and the wife, skis and 11 pieces of luggage -- white knuckle grip all the way...

Shot Sunday night -- night after the storm -- moon, and a few planets over the Tram


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This is my daughter and she is letting me know how uncool I am...
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This is a shot of Emerald Bay on the way back down RT 89 -- we went back to Sacramento via RT 50 -- Beautiful drive when NOT SNOWING -- Heavenly Valley off to the right
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Finished a few items this week end:

1. New shims and new Megacycle cams in, and TDC set, and double checked new shim clearances
2. Valve cover on and sealed up
3. Forks installed and centered - and front wheel installed
4. Handlebars reinstalled and new MC installed
5. New front brake rotor-disk installed by the way - the new rotor is 2LBS!! LIGHTER than the stock rotor -- this plus the new progressive shocks should brighten up the feel)
6. new SS lines and refurbished caliper installed (no fill and bleed yet)
7. Headlamp bucket and bracket and ignition and gauges installed and all electrical connected (except front turn signals - tbd) - all electrical tested OK
8. Engine covers installed - clutch, shifter, generator, and side covers, etc.
9. Polished foot peg bars but not yet installed

Next week end:
1. Install petcock (original is rebuilt)
2. New Fuse box install
3. Install carbs (rebuilt bench synched and floats set)
4. Install foot pegs
5. start on rear end - brakes - polish grab bar
6. new rear shock
7. Pipes back on

Then -- FIRE HER UP!!!

Here's a bunch of eye candy... (these are cel phone pics -- I need to get a better camera sorry)




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HAVEN'T final buffed yet
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Shims are in ... I installed the following:
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A few more... I removed the rust in the bucket and painted it inside black...

p.s. By the way - Tip -- That can of 3M Parts Cleaner and Gasket Prep (lower left can tipped over)-- is the bomb when it comes to degreasing/cleaning -- I used like 12 cans of that stuff -- carb cleaning, degreasing, paint removal, etc. NASTY contents however (like most of this stuff including carb cleaner) -- IMHO, always! use a gask mask !! -- AND safety glasses --

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Next week end:
1. Install petcock (original is rebuilt)
2. New Fuse box install
3. Install carbs (rebuilt bench synched and floats set)
4. Install foot pegs
5. start on rear end - brakes - polish grab bar
6. new rear shock
7. Pipes back on

Then -- FIRE HER UP!!!

 

nice work!! cant wait to see the finished product!

 

Hey man, you are ending up with one of the finest finished jobs I have seen in a long time. Nice work to say the least. Hope it runs as fine as it looks-much to be proud of for sure! grunt007, 81 XJ Seca 750 ))))) Love it!

 

Lookin' juicy!

 

Thanks Chacal, you're awesome service has been key for this project!

 

It's probably too late to mention that you could have painted the hub on the EBC rotor, isn't it? I painted mine with black caliper paint.

 

Thanks Big -- I've seen your bike -- that is a real nice job...

you know I "stared at it" for a while and thought about it -- and grabbed the masking tape -- and started -- then decided I might not do a good job at taping the various and intricate curves -- then pictured overspray -- and then thought about more cleaning... And yesterday was one of those "GET "ER DONE!" days (on top of working till 3:00am Sunday morning on the bike)... so maybe I'll regret it, but I stood back and decided I like (on this bike) the unfinished look.

Thank you

 

Cripes, if it looks that good with "just" cell phone photos, I think photos from a camera are going to blow us away! Nice work! I'll admit, I'm pretty jealous!

 

I'll admit, masking was the "tricky" part but I also build model airplanes so I just broke out the 3MM "Tamiya tape" and had at it.

But it does look very good in natural as well; your bike is coming along quite nicely. Good work.

 

Thank you my friend -- very kind... I am digging both the process and the outcome.

Oh, and you all will get a kick out of this story:

It is late Saturday night (tok the family out, kids, all had dinner at Grumpy's BBQ - best smoked pork in the valley) -- anyway, get home about 10.30 and told the wife I was going to work on the bike -- she gives me that look like "you're a mad man, have fun..."

So it is about midnight and I am putting the shoulder bolts into the sprocket for the cams and I make the dumb mistake of holding one bolt in my palm (sort of cupping it) while I finger tighten the other (with the same hand) -

Of course - click!! the shoulder bolt drops into the timing chain cavity and I have sudden screaming thoughts of it not dropping to the pan -- What if it is jamed? What if it won't drop all the way -- I won't be able to turn the crank even by hand I could JAM it up -- Then OMG -- head and jugs have to come BACK OFF!!!

Don't panic - DONT'T panic I tell myself --

I decide to try a magnet and grab my telescoping magnet - I have to bend the crap out of it to get it to go 'round the frame-bar and down the tunnel - it now no longer "telescopes" -- I try 5 ot 6 times each time it "finds" the chain - click! and it is stuck -- retrieve - repeat - finally I get it real deep into the tunnel - I can't see down there (tried a dentist mirror) and am picturing it in my mind approaching the cam-chain-gear -- suddenly there is a different sounding "click" -- slowly now, careful, slow, straight - I raise it out -- AND THERE ON THE END IS THE SHOULDER BOLT!!!!!!


Phew!! That was my one and only MULLIGAN on this bike

- now back to work and try to remain smart and METHODICAL (I tell myself)

LOL

 

More Porn

Got the foot pegs and front fender on...

this is it, for a while, I promise... More progress next week end


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BIG -- Is that the tape you might use for aileron or elevator hinges on the foamy's? It's the mylar stuff with paper-covered adhesive on one side?

If so, I think I know what you mean - and that is INGENIOUS -- you are a wizzard -- I gotta remember that next time -- masking tape was 'al over the place" for a job like that.

Thanks!

 

Actually, I was referring to the extremely flexible, super-thin yellow masking tape that comes in a 3mm width. Works GREAT for the raised part of wheel spokes too.

(Most of my airplanes are 1/72 scale, not big flyers. Space considerations.)

 

AHHHH - Ok, I know what you mean...

Cool, well turns out we have a second mutual interest --

Thanks

 

damn, scary story of the shoulder bolt!! Im glad to hear that you got it out without 'tooooo' much fuss though!

 

Wow this is looking incredible!!!

 

Dude - that's your paint on the tank and covers - nice work - and thanks

 

One well know issue with the dynacoils is their size -- they are bigger than stock OEM... as a result you can buy a turn-signal relay relocator-tab (because in order to fit in the larger coils you must grind the tab off the frame where the relay "hangs" on a large rubber gromit...

I bought the optional relocator tab and re-hung the turn relay unit off the right side front coil mounting nut...

It leaves you with the option to swing the relay in about a 90-degree arc under there under the right-side coil. Here is what it looks like from the left side of the bike looking up under the frame at the relay (under the coils) -- the not-in-focus bolt left foreground is for the horn.
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...
While using as many position options as possible for the relay, I still couldn't get my OEM horn under there without jamming into the relay...

ONE Solution (among other options)? -- The new horn below -- Cost $9.99, is dramatically smaller and much lighter, draws 1.5 vs. 2.5 amps, and fits nicely into the smaller space without hitting the relay --

However, the new smaller unit is rated at 100db, while OEM is rated at 105db -- It is higher pitched. To my ear, it sounds just as loud and maybe more "piercing". I don't know the law, and I hope do not have an issue with inspection...
...

 

dmccoach..it's looking great, hope you have even more fun riding it

 

A few more Tips and Tricks...

I am prepping the carbs to go back on the bike later today and have already reattached the intake boots to the motor with new gaskets... I turned my attention to the "boot retainer hoops" and found that I had buggared up the soft-metal phillips-head screws used to tighten the hoops... I wanted to share that these SS 4mm hex-heads fit perfectly and frankly will be a whole lot easier to manage for reaching, tightening and loosening them -- The phillips-head screws were "soft", easily ruined, and it was frustrating getting them off...

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12:10am eastern time -- time for bed, but a good afternoon and evening --- OEM, refurbished carbs and pipes installed today -- Maybe I'll fire it up tomorrow (Saturday) or Sunday... Still to do: install new fuse box, bleed front brakes, replace rear shocks, and install rear brakes

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look's awesome! Museum quality.

 

Ok, it's been a good week end:
Front brakes are bled and the line is tight as a drum...
It's a great feeling of confidence having the handle feel crisp...
The petcock is reinstalled and the tank was readied... Carbs have been well synched...
Also Color tuned across all four... I am real pleased with how it is running on the stand --
I can't take it out (25 degrees F here) -- it has no tick tick tick on idle (as it did with the old cams/shims),
and the throttle response is snappy... I need to get in some plug chops...
Next week: Rear shocks, rear brakes, rubber boots on handles, install trim and badges -- tank on and hope for warm(er) weather!... Got to do some plug chopping... I will post final assembly shots from multiple angles...

Then on its first ride, I'll give you my impression of the feel of the Megacycle cams....
See you next week end.

p.s. these phone videos get "real large" (file size) real fast, and I've discovered I can only get about 16 or 17 seconeds for 8Meg which is the largest file size I can mail from the phone without hooking it up and down-loading files, etc. Sorry for the short video.

ALSO - The sound is not synchronized -- the sound is about a 1/2 second behind the video - I was real pleased with the quick throttle response - but it doesn't look responsive on the video
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1981 XJ650H Start after Rebuild

jeez, I an't seem to get videos to embedd... I followed the instructions here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=7 ... video.html
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[video=425,355]http://youtu.be/Qd0IZ9PdSho.swf[/video]