Second gear is tricky to shift into

Ever since I bought the bike second gear has been tricky to shift into. Tricky as in it wants to kick the shift pedal away. I went through this cable adjustment but it doesn't seem to be any better. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... art=0.html

What's next to get rid of this problem?

Also I can't seem to get full throw on the rod lever but when I move it to the full throw position I hear a clicking noise coming from the clutch internals.

 

this is one for the duck

 

So this is the XJ750? What kind of oil are you running in it? Does it ever complain going into any other gears at all? Cold or Hot?

2nd gear is arguably the one that will show issues more than any other. Although 1st will indicate out of adjustment (by dragging) & can/often will 'clunk' when your bike is cold-you are almost always shifting into 1st at a virtual stop and with no load on the motor. 2nd is the 'first' (and highest ratio gear) that you try to grab while in motion and needing to have it synchronized. 3rd on up you can often shift to w/o the clutch at all (not recommended). All that being said either you don't have it adjusted right, or something is bent/awry in your clutch itself.

Any clutch savants out there? Rick? BF? Wiz? Jump in.

 

Yes this is for my Canadian 1985 maxim x 750. It acts the same hot or cold. I am unsure of what oil was used by the previous owner but will be changing it this spring before I ride with good old yamaha lube (sp). Could wrong oil really cause this? I do notice on a cold start up the valve train is a little noisy for the first 30 seconds or so.

 

All of the Yamaha clutches of that era are similar; and the oil you use certainly can effect them.

A dragging clutch makes dropping into first/shifting into second not fun.

Yamalube is not made by Yamaha. Yamaha makes labels to stick on bottles of someone else's oil. It's only a way to take a whole lot of your money; avoid.

Castrol 4T is widely available; I believe even Canadian Tire carries it. You can run 10W40 when it's still chilly out, and 20W50 in warmer weather. But whatever you run, be sure it's MOTORCYCLE oil.

The clicking sound when the lever is pulled in fully could be the symptom of a failing pull-rod wafer bearing. If it fails, you'll be searching for two dozen tiny metal rollers in your sump.

I wouldn't chance it. I'd pull it apart and look; the alternative (wafer bearing failure) isn't worth it. It's not an unhead of failure.

One more thing to consider: Your clutch is approaching 30 years old. You might want to consider a new set of springs and friction plates; the original friction pads are now little squares of linoleum even if they're not worn out.

You'll need a new gasket.

 

Thanks for the advice. I will change the oil when I get home next week and see if the symptoms change. If not it is time to get oily. Where would you suggest to get clutch parts and the gasket?

 

xj 4 ever for parts. click the banner in the upper right hand corner. trust me, you wont regret it. len has everything youll ever need and he is very reasonable in all aspects, including his pricing. top notch service and quick shipping. good luck and ride safe

 

It's worth having a look to head off a disaster.

 

I will definitely have a look. Am I looking for just a worn bearing? Does anyone have any pictures to help me out? I don't have a manual yet but will be ordering one from Len soon.

 

Oh, sorry. http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29541.html Clutch how-to; your bike won't have tabbed plates or a "clutch boss spring" inside a special friction plate; but otherwise it's the same basic principle.

The piece I was referring to is labeled "bearing" and it's between the pull rod and its plate washer. It's a thin ("wafer") bearing with lots of tiny rollers, and it's on the backside of the pressure plate ON the pull-rod. You want to be sure it's not "breaking up" and beginning to shed rollers; and that the plate washer to protect the aluminum pressure plate from said rollers is intact:

 

how'd you hold that camera?

 

Awesome. Thank you greatly.

 

In my beak.

 

:lol:

 

Not suprised.

 

Not suprised.

 

I quickly went thought the post bigfitz did up on a 550 clutch, very nice by the way. What is the differences with my canadian 1985 maxim x 750?

 

Pretty much that. Your clutch won't have tabbed plain plates nor a "clutch boss spring" inside a special friction plate; and the throwout shaft itself is made up of more pieces; but it operates and goes together the same.

Your clutch is simpler than the 550, less to worry about when assembling.

 

I have done some talking with a mechanic friend and he is thinking the second gear synchro is shot. Any ideas with this. To replace this does it require motor removal and case splitting?

 

"and he is thinking the second gear synchro is shot"

???? What the? I would describe the "mechanic" title you have bestowed upon him is generous!

Is this bike difficult to shift in all gears or is it only from 3rd to 2nd and 1st to 2nd?

 

It is only difficult to shift from first to second and third to second.

 

First off, the backhanded reference to your "mechanic friend" was because this type of transmission is "constant mesh" there are no syncros.

Any serious transmission repairs, like replacing shift forks, gearsets or undercutting engagement dogs does require splitting the engine cases, yes.

That's why I'd be darn sure my clutch wasn't the cause BEFORE diving into a major repair like that.

 

He is an aircraft mechanic and tinkers on his 84 klr so I can't rag on him too much. Haha. Thank you for clearing it up. I'm still learning.

 

+1 on ensuring clutch is functioning correctly and cable adjustment is spot on. There is enough expertise on this board to guide you through it all to avoid taking to a shop. Bring on the questions!

 

I did a well diserved oil change and the problem has seem to have disappeared. Odd?

 

NO! Glad you got it sorted though!

 

From my understanding, the wrong oil can cause shifting problems, starter problems and premature wear of critical engine components.

 

Not the least bit odd; it was one of the first things a whole bunch of us suggested.

If you're getting (or were getting) a "clicking" sound with the lever pulled in fully, I strongly suggest you pop the cover and invesitgate. If the wafer bearing breaks up, all those little rollers will head for your sump.

Don't wait for it to fail.

 

Hey guys, I'm ordering my parts now from Len, along with a service manual, and am confused what bearing to order. This was taken from his catalog. Do I need:

Clutch Pressure Plate Push Rod:

The central "stud" that comes through the pressure plate is the poorly-named pushrod (since it actually pulls the pressure plate, rather than pushes it!). Time can take its toll, so inspect it carefully, and if shows sign of wear or gouges, it should be replaced, along with it's bearing and shim washer.

HCP3199 OEM clutch pressure plate push rod BEARING. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. Each:
$ 18.95

HCP3200 OEM clutch pressure plate push rod SHIM WASHER. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK, RL, and N/FN models. Each:
$ 1.95

OR

Clutch Pressure Plate Pivot Axle Shaft and Parts:

The pivot axle shaft is what emerges from the clutch cover and to which the clutch cable is attached to and acts upon. Although the axle rarely wears out, it's upper and lower bearing do, and should be renewed during a major clutch overhaul, as well as the oil seal where the shaft emerges from the clutch cover.

HCP3206 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft SPRING SEAT WASHER, fits directly above the oil seal. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. Each:
$ 1.75

HCP3207 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft OIL SEAL. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. Each: $ 6.50


HCP3231 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft UPPER SHAFT BEARING. Fits all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. Each:
$ 14.95

HCP3230 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft LOWER SHAFT BEARING. Fits all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. Each:
$ 13.95


HCP2537 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft lower FLAT WASHER, fits directly below the lower shaft bearing. Fits all XJ650, XJ700, and XJ750, XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models, and all XJ1100 models. Each:
$ 1.00

HCP3227 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft ACTUATING PINION GEAR. Attached to the very bottom of the pivot axle shaft, this gear is what actuates the clutch pressure plate "pushrod" and causes it to release the pressure plate when the clutch hand lever is engaged. Fits all XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. Each:
$ 10.95

HCP3229 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft lower CIRCLIP, retains all the bearings, oil seals, and the actuating gear to the pivot axle shaft. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models. Each:
$ 1.00

Thanks

 

The "push rod" is the "pull rod" I was referring to; its bearing and washer are the first two parts you listed.

The second section is dedicated to the "Clutch Pressure Plate Pivot Axle Shaft and Parts" which is the vertical shaft that the clutch lever rotates to act upon said pull-rod.

Quoting Len's catalog: "Although the axle rarely wears out, it's upper and lower bearing do, and should be renewed during a major clutch overhaul, as well as the oil seal where the shaft emerges from the clutch cover."

So if you wanted to be safe, you'd want the bearings and the other parts listed in the lower section as well.

Have you taken it apart yet to determine what you do and don't need to replace? It's very possible that you don't need any of the stuff for the actual shaft; but it's also possible the pinion gear is cracked or the bearings worn, you can't tell unless you look.

I usually replace the throwout shaft seal though; HCP3207 OEM clutch pressure plate pivot axle shaft OIL SEAL. Fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 models.

 

I know this is long overdue but I am finally getting my hands dirty, or trying to. I can't seem to be able to get the clutch cover off. I removed one of the hard metal coolant lines, as it used one of the same bolts as the cover for security. The cover is loose as I can wiggle it but it seems like it is still attached near the top right corner where there are a couple gears. Help please.

 

After reading throw Len's catalog again it looks like I have the original as it mentions a screw and washer.