More stuff on carb to intake boots....

Getting ready to re-install the carb rack so turned my attention to the boots...I had read a thread on using RTV for cracks as well as a thread on using bike tire inner tubes......

Looks o.k. right?


or not...


used RTV in the cracks..


and spread around the boot...


cut bike tube to fit....


use two fingers/both hands to open up the tube and slip on..
and adjust with needle nose..be patient..


here's the result...


Still enough room for the circlip and added protection at the weak point...

 

Nice work. What size tubes? Would you come back and post a photo of them on the bike when it's done?

 

here's the tubes:


Anything smaller would be difficult to pry over the boot. I'll post a pick on this thread when carbs on on the bike...hopefully later this week..

Dave

 

now why didnt i think of that?
awesome!!!!

 

So here's how they look....as the rebuild continues...



Dave

 

I have to admit, I've looked at these pictures a few times, and I don't understand that final picture in the original post. Can you show a picture of the end result of the boot that also shows the vacuum port? I can't imagine how you pulled it that far over without running into the vacuum stem there... Also, HOW did you stretch it so much to fit it over the boot?

 

fintip: It runs up to the vacuum port. If you need xtra coverage, make a REALLY small u-shaped cut in the tube to fit around the port. The vacuum port is on the stiffer, thicker rubber and less prone to complete or partial tear. You use index and second fingers of both hands inside the tube to "open it up" [which will stretch surprisingly well] with the boot on a flat surface. I tried to "roll up" the inner tube and then stretch it....couldn't do it....

 

RE: the above pic. Unless your "choke" is partway on, you need to have a go at adjusting the linkage. That enrichment plunger is being lifted... there should be a small gap between the lever and the button on the top of the plunger.

 

maybe we should be using clamps more like the one on the left

 

Polock: They would be easier to tighten for sure. The stock clamps are sprung and hold in place. Would prefer an allen head to the crosshead.

Fitz: Only you [maybe 1 or 2 others] would see that!! I am impressed! I had the (L) clutch/switch assembly off to adjust and secure....I now have 1/16th clearance from the button top to the lever. Great spot!!.......

Dave

 

not so much to tighten them but the rolled edge of the clamp might not dig into the rubber as much

 

Those clamps certainly couldn't hurt.

I just did this, and had great success. On the two outside boots, I went as far as to put two layers of the tube--though if you go that route, don't just double up one long piece of tube, use two separate pieces, or it's prone to have enough strength to pull itself off the boot in an attempt to go back down in size.

My stems do have cracks around them, however. I don't have the carbs back on yet, since I'm restoring them right now, so I can't tell you if my problems are completely fixed or not--but I'm thinking I'll get even more rubber and cut a tiny hole and stretch it over the vacuum ports on all four, once the current layers are finished.

Does anyone have anything to weigh in on including heat in this process, melting some rubber onto the boots? Would this be unwise for any reason?

Does RTV hold up well under sunlight? I know it can handle high heat (I used black, as recommended).