Broken clutch cable leaves me stranded

So I go out for a ride this lovely Sunday afternoon with my uncle and my brother. My uncle rides a '97 Harley Davidson Sportster 1200, and my brother a '84 Yamaha XV500 Virago. We're just leaving Stratford Ontario and returning home from our trip. As I'm leaving town I go to shift from 4th to 5th. As I pull in the clutch... it goes limp. It was pretty immediately obvious to me what had happened and I pulled over in gear and just slowed on the shoulder and held the brakes until the engine was forced to stall. With no tools on hand between any of us to make shift a reattachment I was screwed. My uncle rode on home and well over an hour later he came back with his pickup truck to give me (and my bike) a lift home. Ok, maybe I could have got it home without a clutch but that just didn't seem like a very good idea.

In hind sight I'm thinking I could have exposed the cable and maybe fed it through so I could yank on it with my left hand when I needed to shift. This could have maybe been good enough to get me home. However my uncle was already well on his way to get his truck by the time I thought of that.

The breakage was caused by the end piece being bound inside the handle so every time I pulled the clutch it would cause the cable to bend. In the future I will have to make sure thats well lubed.

Its an easy fix and I'm just posting this as an interesting story.

That and I find it quite ironic that a Harley had to ride on to save a metric bike. Wonders never cease.

 

Hi Supernaut,

The Harley made it home?!

Shame your ride was cut short though. Seems a few people have had problems with clutch cables breaking. Making sure that the end of the cable where it is attached to the clutch leaver is lubed and can move freely is a easy way to make sure the XJ makes it home!

You use your clutch to upshift?

Try this; use the clutch to upshift 1 - 2 then just blip the throttle closed and tap the gearleaver up to up from 3 - 4 - 5. With a wee bit of practice you can't feel the gearchange, the throttle is off for just a split second the time it takes to tap the gearleaver up.

Important to avoid rear wheel lock up - Clutch used going down!

Soooo much smoother, soooo much quicker, less wear on the clutch cable and plates too (you're not using them!).

 

Clutch Adjustment & Clutch Cable Replacement made simple.
Special to: XJBikes.com
Copyright: November 23, 2006
All Rights Reserved.

By: Rick Massey

Here's my submission to our up-coming Tech Section. There's nothing worse than grinding a pound of gears trying to get the bike into first gear, fighting with the gear change pedal to get into Neutral, having the bike do the "Red Light Creep" and missing a shift. This article will cure those symptoms for you.

Eventually, you'll need to replace the Clutch Cable; too. I have done my best to provide a step-by-step procedure that even the most inexperienced Member should be able to understand and follow when the time comes to swap-out a Clutch Cable.

Following Repair Manual format; here's everything you need to know ... to replace the whole Clutch Cable or simply Adjust your bike's Clutch for smooth riding or Track Day!

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Cable Replacement:
Note the way that the old cable is routed, from the Clutch Lever Perch, around the front, along the frame, through guides, over or under parts, down along the frame, to the mounting point on the Engine Case, below the Carb's, at the rear of the Clutch Case.

(Make notes, a drawing, or stick tape with arrows pointing the way, if you can't remember how it needs to go.)

Down at the Engine Case:
Bend the tab on the Clutch Throw-Out Lever Mount to allow the Lead "Bullet" Cable End, to be removed and release the cable from the Throw-Out Lever's attachment point.

I use a big Crescent Wrench. Push DOWN on the wrench lifting the Throw-Out Lever and maneuver the Cable End Bullet out of its holding bracket. Pad the jaws of the wrench (or any tool you use) with paper towels.

After detaching the Bullet, relax the wrench pressure allowing the Throw-Out Lever to retract. Clean and lube the pivot point of the cable attachment bracket.

At the Cable's End:
Remove the hard rubber Dust Seal. Un-screw it and slide it to the end of the cable along with the nuts and washers collected as the Cable is removed.

With fresh brake fluid or Armoral, lube the Dust Seal for withdrawing the rubber dust seal off the end of the cable, over the Bullet.

Loosen and remove the Lower Hex Locking Nut and Washer (if present).

Push the threaded Adjusting Barrel through the top of the Mount if the Adjusting Barrel does not come loose from the bracket. The barrel might slide right out from the Mount. Other's may need to be withdrawn. Either way; undo the Adjusting Barrel from the Mounting Bracket.

At the Clutch Lever Perch:
Remove the Hex nut on the end of the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin.
Remove the Pivot Pin bolt.
Slide-out the Clutch Lever from the Perch.

Remove the Cable End and Bullet > (or any remains of a broken cable) < from the Clutch Lever.
Line-up the Cable with Slot on the Lever allowing for the removal of the Cable End from the Clutch Lever. Slide the Bullet UP and out of the "Bullet Hole" on the Lever.

Clean-out the channeling and the Pivot Port for the lead Bullet. Put a dab of Waterproof Grease in the "Bullet Hole" and set the Lever aside.

Clean the Knurl Cable End Adjuster and its Locking Ring.
Add NeverSeize to the Knurl's threads.
Place a dab of NeverSeize in the threaded hole for the Knurl on the Perch.
Place the Knurl, with its Locking Ring all the way on, into the Perch's threaded opening.

Spread the NeverSeize along the Perch's inside threads by running The Knurl > IN, to the end and back OUT; several times. Add additional NeverSeize, if needed, to insure the Knurl Adjuster moves freely, without binding. "Exercise" this vital Clutch adjustment mechanism until it is able to move with precision. The Smooth and precise adjustment of this feature is absolutely necessary to properly and precisely adjust the Clutch.

Make sure the Locking Ring is on tight, at the end.
Bottom the Knurl into the Perch, against the Lock Ring.
Turn Knurl OUT 3-1/2 Turns. (Exercise the Knurl IN and OUT, in this particular area, until it adjusts velvety smooth, with no binding or resistance.)

The Cable:
Out with old and in with the new. Follow your notes or taped-on arrows.
Thread the end which attaches to the Clutch Perch > up through the bike < Starting at the Case Mount and ending at the Clutch Lever Perch.

At the Clutch Perch:
Thread the Cable through the > lined-up slots < of the Perch, Knurl and Locking Collar.
Put the lead barrel "Bullet" into the Clutch Lever "Bullet Hole" and mount the Clutch Lever, the Clutch Lever Pivot Pin and tighten Hex nut.

Make a "Final adjustment check" on the Knurl and Locking Collar. Run the Knurl OUT 3-1/2 turns -- positioning the slot > Inboard < to prevent the Cable from escaping during the remainder of the replacement and adjusting.

Critical Proceedure:
Use the Knurl's "Thumb Wheel" Locking Collar and LOCK the KNURL tightly in place, 3-1/2 Turns OUT. Place the Cable Sheath's End-Fitting FIRMLY into it's seat at the open end on the Knurl.
SECURE the sheath against escaping from the Knurl's seat with a strip of Vinyl electrical tape until all Cable and Clutch adjusting is complete.

Down at the Case:
(Mod's for Performance and Precision Adjustment of Clutch include some additional hardware items.)
Place a Hex nut, a Stainless Steel washer and a Nylon washer on to the Threaded Clutch Cable Adjustment end. (Nut, Stainless washer, Nylon washer.)
Slide ... or slip-in from the top ... the Threaded Adjustment End into the Clutch Cable Holding and adjustment mounting bracket. Secure the bottom of the Threaded Adjuster with additional hardware items:
Place a Nylon washer on first.
Place a Stainless Steel washer on next.
Place the Hex nut on the Adjuster; third. (Substitute NyLoc Hex nut for stock nut.)
Rubber Dust Shield; last.

Critical Procedure:
While holding the Threaded Adjustment End tight into the mounting bracket; tighten the Lower Hex nut, with sufficient force, until BOTH Nylon washers "Crush" and mould themselves to, and around, the top and bottom edges of the holding bracket.

[Use standard, thin, stainless washers. Use Nylon washers that are "Soft", about as thick as a Nickel or slightly thicker. The Nylon washers are > supposed to < get Crushed and become non-slip fasteners ... holding the Threaded Barrel of the Clutch Cable, firmly, in the same place, while final installation and adjustments are carried out. Also, to allow fast and accurate adjustments of the upper and lower hex nuts should future cable adjustments be necessary.]

With the Threaded Adjuster tightened in place; place the Lead Bullet End of the Cable into the Cable Attachment Pivot at the end of the Throw-out arm. Push the arm UP, as before, using a proper tool, and capture the Bullet in the pivot attachment devise. Don't fold-over the tab until ALL the Clutch Adjusting is complete.

Release tension on the Throw-out Lever.
Inspect and insure that the Bullet end is firmly seated in its holding slot.
Now, check the Throw-out lever for Cable Slack and Throw-out Lever End Play.
Remove all Slack and End Play.

If the Cable is slack and the Throw-out lever has loose End Play ... LOOSEN the LOWER Hex nut on the Threaded Cable End Adjuster and TIGHTEN the UPPER Hex nut > Holding the Barrel from rotating by holding the Fixed Hex Flats atop the barrel, just above the locking Hex nut on the Threaded Adjuster ... until ALL the SLACK in the CABLE is REMOVED and Throw-out Lever End Play is reduced to Zero Lash.

ADJUSTING THE CLUTCH:
Continue adjusting the Threaded Adjustment End of the Clutch Cable until you remove ALL the Slack in the Cable and the Throw-out Lever is > "On the edge" of ZERO LASH. NO End Play." Use finger pressure on the exposed cable to "Feel" the adjusting process.
You need to adjust the Throw-out arm to ZERO Lash. Such that adjusting the Hex nuts on the Cable's Threaded Adjustment by only one or two flats will provide just a hint of LASH. Adjust the Cable at the Lower Cable Mounting Bracket for ZERO Lash at the Throw-out Lever.
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

** [ You need the whole throw-out on these XJ Clutches. It is not unusual for the adjustment to be complicated by the improper replacement of the Clutch Throw-out Arm, after any work, which might have made removing it convenient or necessary. If you are not getting enough Clutch throw-out; it might be necessary to reposition the Throw-out LEVER a notch or two Counterclockwise on the splines of the Clutch Throw-out ROD.

Remove the Throw-out Lever from the splined end of the Throw-out ROD. Turn the ROD Clockwise until its motion stops upon contact at the clutch.
Maintain contact at the Clutch by holding the ROD fully Clockwise and reposition the Throw-out LEVER back on the spines to where it's new position removes cable slack.

Make the necessary adjustments to all the lower components and adjustment features until you get ZERO Lash at rest ... and complete movement of the ROD Clockwise when the Clutch Lever is pulled.] **

The Clutch is preliminarily adjusted. Although, it very well might be Precisely adjusted.

Test ride and observe for the ease of shifting, finding Neutral, and NOT bucking or jumping into gear.

Further fine-tuning of the Clutch Adjustment is done by adjusting the Knurl, on the Clutch Perch, IN or OUT as needed.

The ability to tweak the adjustment of your Clutch using the Knurl ... allows you maintain Perfect Adjustment at all times.
This feature also allows you to make immediate adjustments if heat becomes a factor in the Adjustment.

When the fine-tuning and adjusting is done ... LOCK the adjustment with the Knurl Locking Ring. Lock it up TIGHT. Most clutch problems are a result of the Knurl vibrating and loosing it's position.

Good job adjusting that Clutch.
Like a new bike ... ain't it???

I don't recommend doing gear changes without releasing the clutch. All too easy to ding-up surfaces and start having transmission trouble.

 

Thanks RickCoMatic, but I think you're going to need to include photographs to get the most n00bish members to understand that.

I had my old man take the cable to work silver solder a custom stainless "bullet" back on to the end. This will prevent the binding like the stupid soft original lead one did. Attaching it all at the lever end was simple enough but the challenge all comes along at the clutch end. After I took awhile to figure how it hooks in the next challenge was to secure the insulated part to the frame. From the lower brass casing I managed to squeeze it into the clip provided. Now the trouble is that there does not seem to be enough spring pressure to pull the cable back so the clutch can engage. This even after I thoroughly lubed the cable all the way along. I don't know if the spring cracked and was weakened during the process somewhere or if it just became unhooked and is clipped onto the wrong part of the arm now. Although I can't seem to find another way it could clip on. Never the less being able to effortlessly push that clutch arm across its full range using one finger just doesn't seem right to me. Especially since there was plenty of clutch pressure on the handle before this all happened.

And if this all hasn't been irritating enough as it is, I have yet to figure out how those nuts at the bottom end are used to adjust the clutch. Hell, I haven't figured out how they have any influence on the clutch at all. Maybe the insulation itself is supposed to be in the nearest clip and not the brass covering part. This would bring those nuts right down to where the arm is.

As I was screwing around with this after a very late start I eventually ran out of day light and with no garage to work in it was time to put her away. Tomorrow is another day, maybe. It is supposed to rain all day tomorrow and I'll be damned if I'm going to work on it out in the rain. This might have to wait till next weekend.

I must say it is rather hard on the ego though. Something that on the surface seems so simple suddenly becomes a mountain of a challenge once I get my hands on it. Makes me feel like a god damn tool. :evil:

Although, to my credit it was my uncle that took it all apart. This means I never seen how it properly fits together so I'm sort of working blind folded trying to rely on common sense.


Clutchless up shifting, just like the truckers do? Interesting concept. Thats something I could try but I wouldn't want to mash up the gears while learning how. Besides as it is I allow the engine to slow to where it will be in the next higher gear. So for the fraction of a second I have the clutch in there is almost no slipping going on at all as I let the RPM slow. I do the same in my car. That to I hear some people can upshift in a car smoothly without using the clutch. I'm not going to mash up my transmission learning how to do it. I must say compared to how I see most people drive a manual car and make a clutch last over 100000km, mine should last the life of my car by comparison. It seems the vast majority of people have no clue, downshifting without hitting the gas and a variety of other whiplash inducing bad habits and they still make a clutch last that long. And that seems to be 90% of drivers of every standard car I ever rode in, young or old driver, male or female, doesn't seem to matter. Unbelievable.

Do most people upshift bikes without using the clutch? Its really not something I ever hear talked about.

 

It's raining here too. If no one else posts photos for you I will try and get some done tomorrow to illistrate Rick's guide. Gonna check my clutch lever pivot is well lubed, so will start at scratch and do the whole adjust thing!

There is no real learning involved, you should be able to get it sorted the first ride. Just a momentary blip on the throttle as you shift. Letting the revs fall between gears kind of defeats the purpose and is not needed.

Up shifting with no clutch does not hurt the clutch. By letting the throttle off you are unloading the engine and transmission. Modern bikes with push button shifters don't use the clutch. They momentarily cut power to the engine thus unloading the engine and transmission. Alot of guys I know do the no clutch shift.
Autos are becoming so common here that the art of driving "stick" is getting lost. All my cars bar one have been manual, would never have a auto don't like 'em!

Modern sports bikes as above do this.
I've done it for 25 years!

Note this is all IMHO, others might disagree.

 

Thanks, that would be great if someone could get some photos up.

And in regards to shifting, I think I'd almost be afraid to buy a used manual transmission car these days. From experience I would imagine there is about a 90% chance that the previous owner was a clutch burning, gear crunching monkey.

One more thing about bike clutches. As to my understanding they are all of the wet clutch variety. I remember in motorcycle training we would slip the clutches all day long going around the cones at 2km/h. The instructors told us that because they are wet clutch they would not be hurt by excessive slipping like that. Also that they run them all summer long like that without a problem.

In training we rode Yamaha XT 225's. Damn was I ever glad to get off at the end of the day. By the second day of training I was so damn sore it caused me to walk around like a cowboy. That and the tiny little foot control's were often missed by my size 13 work boots I had on. I didn't have any motorcycle boots at the time. Also it seemed to take a magical warlock's touch to get the damn things into neutral.

 

Wow! Thanks for the post, Rick! I wish all instructions were just as complete.

 

I was told exactly the same thing by both my father who's been riding for years and by the intructors in the Basic Rider Course I took to get my license.

On the subject of upshifting without using the clutch I do that too but I'm leery about doing it too often. I can't help but think that it's rounding a gear edge here and there if you do it wrong.

I have done the same with manual transmission vehicles before so I know it can be done cleanly. It just takes time and effort to learn. Though for some reason my mind says it's much easier to learn to do on a bike than a car.

Something about being much more involved in the heart of the machine so to speak. ;-)