Recommissioning my 1982 XJ550 Maxim

Hi, all. I started my questions here, http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=3 ... tml#329729 ...but for clarity, I'll start a new thread of my own here.

Years ago, before spending countless hours perusing this forum, I had no idea that being able to ride an old motorcycle required the following steps:

1. Buy an old motorcyle in good running condition for under $1000.
2. Learn to become my own motorcycle mechanic, because nobody else locally will do it for me.
3. Spend at least that much money on parts to address "safety" issues (like replacing braking systems, tires, carb-parts, etc.).

Steps 2 & 3 suck, but I guess it's what is required to run an "antique" bike.

My bike has sat in my unheated garage for most of the past ten years - unwinterized - in Saskatchewan. Me = newbie owner! Amazingly, with a new battery, a charge, and a can of Sea-Foam, it starts right up. I would like to eventually do a few mods to it, but from what I've learned here, the best approach is to get it running WELL "stock" first:

The clutch cable has been replaced.
The tires are being replaced with Dunlops.
The seat has been replaced.
I'm switching the buckhorn bars to European handle bars.


My plans...


REAR BRAKING SYSTEM:
I checked the rear brake drum for delamination and will replace the shoes (though the old ones worked fine) as per:
Delaminating Rear Brake Shoes!!!
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html
Steps for Reinstalling Rear Wheel:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... stall.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... plate.html


FRONT BRAKING SYSTEM:
I plan to rebuild the Front Brake System (though it worked fine last summer) as per:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... rt=75.html
http://www.xj4ever.com/choosing%20a%20sight%20glass.pdf

...And rebuilding the Master Cylinder:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... +boot.html

I "may" have to check/change my front fork seals, as per:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=8355/

DRIVE SYSTEM:
The chain and sprockets look alright, and I never noticed any issues last summer. I'll check them to see if there's enough wear to warrant replacement as per this thread:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... chain.html


FUEL SYSTEM:

Change the fuel-contaminated oil & filter. (This means that I cannot run the engine again until I have cleaned the carbs, otherwise I'll contaminate the fuel again, which means ...a whole lot of other prerequisite steps):

The petcock leaks, and will be rebuilt according to:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... art=0.html
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=309545.html

Install an inline fuel filter, as per:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=6352/

CARBURATORS:
The throttle hesitates at driving speeds ~40-60 km/hr. When the engine gets warm, at ~100 km/hr, the engine may lose power, and eventual stall.

I've been told that first I should do a compression test on the engine to see if it's even worth working on. Can I do a compression test --even with fuel-contaminated oil? My oil is already contaminated with fuel - probably caused by a stuck carb needle and/or leaking petcock. Does a compression test need to be done when the engine is quite warm? The bike doesn't have ride-able tires yet.

Then the valve clearances need to be checked as per:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... ances.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29209.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... t=180.html

Then remove the carb rack from the bike as per:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=29695.html

Then the carbs need to be rebuilt from scratch as per:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... +tool.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95nlrP-yn2I
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=31061.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2 ... +pics.html
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3633.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=3 ... tml#329308
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14692.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... +pics.html
...including the Enrichment Well:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=8918/

Then I need to make sure they go "clunk":
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=1 ... clunk.html

Then bench-syncing:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... ching.html

Then "Wet-set" the floats:
http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf

Then "maybe" I'll need to address some cracking issues on my Carb Intake Boots using RTV & a rubber innertube:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=37200.html
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/p=3 ... tml#329428

Then block the YICS port using the YICS tool, as per:
http://home.westman.wave.ca/~jbe/YICS.htm
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=14757.html

Then vacuum-syncing while running, or using a water-manometer:
http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcy ... meter.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0qf11BOx6o
Vacuum-guage Carb Sync method:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=2132.html

Then Colortune to adjust mixture:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=8 ... +plug.html
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PPpdINqDGdg


ENGINE OIL LEAKS:
There are a couple minor ones, including around the tach gear housing oil seal:
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=19538.html

So...

What am I missing?

I'm a newb with engines, so all these steps are quite overwhelming to me - not to mention the price-tag. I'm working on building an order with Len, and he's been very helpful of course - as have the rest of you. There is absolutely NO WAY I would have the slightest clue what to do without the people on this forum.

Thank you!

-Allan in Saskatoon, SK, Canada

 

This is awesome..

 

Looks like you've pretty much got it.

To answer a couple of your questions: A compression test is best done with the motor just slightly warm; but cold (as in, the carbs are off) is fine too.

That being said, I wouldn't run the motor at all with contaminated oil. Further, I'd at least check the valve clearances before doing your compression test; if you have any that are way too tight it will throw off the results.

Wet-setting floats: http://www.xj4ever.com/setting%20fuel%20levels.pdf

Change the contaminated oil first; then get after the carbs so it doesn't keep happening.

 

I think this thread should qualify as the new FAQ!

 

Thanks, guys! BigFitz, I added your recommendations (about "wet-setting", compression test, valve clearances, and changing the oil) to the post. I'll be returning to this page and editing my first post as time goes on - treating it like my "To-Do" list, or a Table of Contents.

As far as this thread as "the" new FAQ ...umm, I'm sure there's a better solution. ;p You got me thinking, though, and I started a new thread on the topic, here:
http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=43472.html

 

What you're missing is the little bits + pieces that you find as you work on other things... like "let me re-attach the throttle cab..." *SNAP* or "why wont this bolt move? *SNAP*

 

Yes, but those are on the secondary "Oh SNAP" list. That list keeps growing, much like the "*sob" list, and might be too great for the character limit on this board!

 

It has taken a while, but here's what I've done:

1. I finally got the handlebars installed;
2. I bought a new rear tire, and cleaned the wheel/sprocket up with WD-40 --probably the first time that had ever been done. What a difference!

?? Will WD-40 harm the tire rubber? I've read conflicting reports.

Also, Bigfitz, you posted this in the "brake shoe delamination" thread:

3. I re-checked the pads on the "old" shoes, trying to pry them off. Nope. There is NO way I could get them to come off, so I'm confident that glue is still holding. (I already paid for the new shoes, so I'll check these again next year, and install if needed.)

4. I cleaned everything you mentioned with brake cleaner /scotchbrite. (Also used RickCoMatic's insteuctions in this thread: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=3 ... stall.html ) I think my Clymer manual requests moly grease to lube the cam/lever & shaft, & shoe pivot, but I searched the local stores for Red Line CV-2, or any other red moly grease with a high temperature rating. None was available locally. I couldn't find any "brake lube" either. The closest I found was this copper anti-seize lubricant by permatex - rated up to 1800*F. It "seems" like it "plates" the same way as molybdenum disulfide:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4 ... ?locale=en
(I noticed the bottle does not mention "water-proof-ness" or "wash-out resistance".)

I bought it, and smeared it "lightly" on the cam/lever shaft, and the brake pivot, and also lightly in the groove around the rim of the backing plate (not sure if this last bit was necessary).

Should I also use this anti-seize compound on the axle itself when I re-install the wheel? Or just use grease?

BTW, "Kroil" has been mentioned as a favourite on this forum, but it's also hard to find in my area. However, "Liquid Wrench" has been shown by this study to have similar effects for 1/5th the price:
http://forum.ssccracing.org/viewtopic.p ... 9a89d9ba2e