I was cleaning my carbs...

Horror story...true

I started cleaning my carbs with the Official Rick guide. Carbs 1 and 2 no problem, and I thought 3 would be the same.

When I was getting ready to put everything together...I noticed that I was missing something.

The weird thing is that it was fine, and I didn't even touch it. I took the needle no problem, and when I was about to call it clean I saw it. I didn't even hear it fall apart.

I know that the bike was let down twice but I wasn't expecting this.

Do you guys think it can be fixed? Loctite? I can't afford a new set of carbs.

Also, the main jet needle in carb 2 looks bent, the spring wont be able to lift it all the way up. What can I do about that?

After it being my winter project, it wouldn't start. I tried some starting fluid in the air box and started right up, so I started with the carbs.
Please guys help me finish my 2 months of work!!!

 

Try using some of this. Put a little between the broken parts and squeeze them together so that the putty extrudes out from between the parts, then align them with the float pin. Let it harden (10-15 minutes). Then build up a good solid bead of the stuff around the broken column to give it strength, This stuff is amazingly strong and impervious to gasoline. JB Weld might also work, but I don't have any experience using it, nor do I know if it will resist gasoline. I sealed a gas tank with this stuff, and Permatex makes a similar product especially for sealing gas tanks. it's easy to use, and a lot less messy than two part epoxy in a syringe.

 

jb weld!

 

I'm sure there must be a way of fixing this; maybe drilling some small small holes and inserting some steel pins to join the 2 parts - but that would have to be like dentist precision thing - like getting a cap.

Must be a specialist aluminium solution to this - just trying to think what I would do - QICKSTEEL? Haven't heard of it but it may work.

No need for a new set of carbs - best to try if all else fails to see if you can match that one carb. Hitachi or Mikuni?

 

That looks like bad news...sorry to hear. Here's a link to a demo video of a company's welding rod and procedure for welding cast alluminum. (Don't worry, I have no connection to this company.) Perhaps you can find the filler metal or something similar at your local supplier.

I was also thinking about silver solder. I haven't used it much, but I've hear good things about it...that is, it'll join a lot of metals that are hard to weld.

Good luck.

 

PS: I used Permatex radiator and gas tank repair compound on sealing a small hole on the outside of the gas tank. Pretty much rolled up a small ball of it and spread it evenly around a half an inch around the hole. Set like concrete and haven't had a problem in 3 months or so. Obviously handles the petrol and being exposed to the elements so I guess it may work on the aluminium post in the carb. worth a shot. Apply a small amount on the interface surface and when in place and set, apply a small amount to the outside of the join seam. Being at the tip of the carb it may not get that much immersion in petrol...?

Karl

 

Oh ya, the link:

http://www.muggyweld.com/5clip7.html

 

Gene.
I got your back.
PM sent.

No Disney needed.
Good luck,

Rick

 

Thank you all for your fast and great responses.

Guess it would be safer to try and find another set of carbs than to be worried about those falling apart...

I am sure I will fix it, it just takes some time and some bucks, and I have a little of both

Good riding to all of you!

 

Gene, I'd suggest applying an adequate layer of epoxy on the carb assembly & the broken part, join them together still until epoxy dry's, it should take care of it cause it certainly did on mine. good luck to u

 

I put some JB weld on it, they claim it resists gas.

It was holding on pretty well with the super glue I applied last night, but I didn't think that would resist the gas.

The carbs were cleaner than I thought, but the butterfly was keeping them closed. I can't wait to put them on and start riding after 6 months!

Thank you guys!

 

I am thinking a good dose of carb cleaner. Make sure it is good and vapor free and then take to someone who can tig weld the sucker back together. Shouldn't take long to tig. My two cents

 

i'll second that , clean off all that goo and find a pro to tig it

 

I am not sure of the exact metal composition so MIG may not be an option. Only your professional welder will be able to give you the straight scoop. If you do have the welding done, and I'm thinking you should, be prepared for it to not work. Additionally, do not go to the cheapest welder you can find. Lots of fellows think because they can strike an arc, they are welders. Find a certified welder with references. He/she will cost more but you will bet the benefit of a professional job. JB will probably not hang in there very long immersed in fuel.

 

The correct answer to the problem of what to do ... to repair the Float Hinge Pillar is:

None of the above!

Replace the Carb Body with the broken Float Hinge Pillar.

It's like a Thoroughbred Race Horse ... when the poor thing breaks its leg ... the kindest thing to do is put a bullet in its head and put an end to the suffering.

 

Rick is right about the best way to fix the pillar....but....welding it is the second best option. But it may also be the least practical.

Problems with welding it:
1) It's aluminum--i.e., it's not mild steel, so it requires a "specality" procedure. (Mig won't do. I'm not sure how well tig works with cast)
2) It's cast--this coupled with it being aluminum is even more difficult. Cast metals are notoriously hard to weld.
3) It's so bloody small--it's not easy to work with (even for the experienced welder) and will almost never be straight. That said, it doesn't need to be exactly straight, as long as the floats move freely.(You or the weld will have to brace it some how--perhaps drill into the top and screw a brace across the pillars to hold the broken one in place and to stop distortion.)
4) You have to watch out for melting plastic/rubber parts. It may end up being a whole lot of work trying to stip all the flammable parts.

 

After one day, the JB weld looked strong so I put the carbs back on the bike. It starts with the choke and idles, but it sounds funny.

I think cylinder number 3 (carb 3 was the issue) is not firing.

So I guess I need a new set of carbs...

 

At the college I go to, they have a welding class, I will take them there and see if they can fix them for cheap.

I was thinking..maybe finish the bridge on top with something might help?

It is crazy, asking 70 plus shipping for some carbs that look like crap and rusted to heck on eBay...

Good riding! I will have to wait a little bit more...