Noisy Cam chain and loss of power after about 3 miles

Well the title pretty much explains it all. I've read alot of the forums dealing with the cam chain tensioner. and it has still not sunk in yet. can any1 give me the EXTREAM laymens step by step procedure? As for the power loss, I was riding and was approx. 3 miles from my house and the bike seemed to really loose power. It almost sounded like it was "bogging out" Thank god I was near my destionation. I parked my bike. got back on like 30 mins. later and got about 3 miles from where I just left and it happened again. limped it the rest of the way home. Im at a loss ! oh, and I checked the plugs and they are as clean as when i I put them in.

 

An engine can only lose power if it loses compression, fuel or spark. We can rule our compression cause that generally doesn't fade over time. Pretty much the same with spark. Therefore I would suggest that there is some sort of fuel problem. Carbs (jets) maybe clogged up, float valves or floats not working or set properly.

It is also possible that the petcock valve is not fully opening (with vacuum) and so after a while the bike runs out of fuel. One thing to try is to turn the petcock to prime and try driving it and see if you lose power after a few minutes.

 

ok ill take it for a test ride and try it tomorrow and let you know

 

One thing I can think of that would loose compression as it heats up is valve clearances too tight. If fuel isn't your problem have a look at the valve shims.

Unless you know they have been checked recently probably not a bad idea to have a look at the shims even if your problem is fuel.

 

Is there ONE person with a power failure issue that will check the Alternator Brushes.

30,000 on that bike.
Those little carbon sticks do not last forever.

That is the FIRST PLACE you look after lifting the seat and replacing the Fuse panel.

 

Couldn't the plugs be shiny white due to a LEAN issue?

 

Yes ...
Severely Lean

He's losing Performance ... not power?

If the bike was that LEAN ... It would be so hot:

You'd feel it
Smell it
Hear it

If what he's hearing isn't a Cam Chain noise ... but, piston skirts traveling up and down on cylinder walls with NO lube because its so lean that its burning-off the oil sheen ...

Screeching ...

That is the worst case scenario ...
I have a situation like that I'm working on, right now.
I can't imagine the Carbs being set-up to run that lean.
I think I'm going to find a hodge-podge off Jets in the set coming to me that were stuck in-there ... just to make the engine run so the PO could unload the bike.

 

ok, checking valve clearance. Take off the tank, remove the valve cover and.......... can I get a step by step.

 

I'd like for this to not be an overheat related issue. If you running Lean enough to keep the plugs clean ... that's lean enough to be a problem.

Pull the plugs and inspect them very closely. Check-out the ceramic surrounding the electrode. I know they are clean. But, are they starting to crack? Is there the beginning of tiny hairline cracks on any of the plugs?

Here's the breakdown.
Running that Lean can burn you up.
Air cooled engines are dependent on running a little bit Rich. Because Rich is a cooler burn.
Lean burns all the fuel.
Severely lean burns all the fuel - present - including the protective sheen of oil wiped-on the Cylinder wall by the Oil rings.

If you are burning-up cylinder lube sheen; the engine overheats from the lean-burn condition and the friction made by piston skirts traveling on the insufficiently lubed cylinder walls.
Nothing good ever results from running that lean.

Why are you running lean?
What was done to cause the engine to be either:
1. Not getting enough gas to run right .... or,
2. Getting way too much air to run right.

Not enough gas.
Way too much air.

What changed and who changed it?

While you are busy investigating your valve clearances ... would you please do a "Reset" on all four of your Pilot Mixture Screws.

Turn them in, all the way down, until they softly bottom-out ... counting the revolutions and fractions thereof as you do.
Return them to the position you found them at ~~> Unless ...

they are adjusted 2-1/2 Turns OR Less.

If they are 2-1/2 Turns Out (or LESS) ... report those finding to us, here, right away.

 

I did the reset on the carbs. the screws were turned out only 2 turns on all 4 of the carbs. I returned all the screws out to 2 1/2 turns. seems to idle a little better.

 

Alternator brushes checked? Output voltage? Petcock? Valve clearances? Fuse box? Even if not causing the problem worth a look at all the obvious culprits covered in other posts. It is almost like you should start at A and finish at Z as a general check of everything on the bike THEN trouble shoot the specific problem. These bikes are not getting any younger eh?

Read your plugs. This site Sparkplug reading guide is very good. What number do the plugs look like?

 

im would say their between a 22 or 23

 

I just bought a new fuse box ! YEAH ! should be here in like 4-5 days !

 

Valve check guide

Hot or lean but OK. Got the air filter installed and sealing OK? The air filter can be tricky to fit right as the lid holds it in place. Mainfold leak (cracks in carb boots)? Pod filters? 4 into 1 exhaust fitted? Oil level OK? Try looking at the other suggestions given? Results?

 

Here are a couple pics of the actual measurement: