Power then nothing..

OK here is a wierd one. I put a new battery into the bike tonight and turned the key (silently praying too) and the neutral light popped to life!! Next tried the horn and turn signals, nothing. Got out the volt meter and while testing it the signals started working and the horn too. Thoroughly confused I checked out the fuses, some looked bad so I replaced the two that I had spares for. At this point, it would start to turn over (no gas tank so couldnt completely start it) and all the signals worked except the headlight which I think is burnt out. Now it gets wierd. Half an hour later I tried it again and intermittently things would just not work. I bought a fuse tester and they all check out ok. As I move the fuses things start to work and then fail. I have read about the problems with these fuse blocks but after inspection it seems that the metal clamps are in great shape and not brittle at all. The battery tests out perfectly too btw. Any thoughts on this? I did see something interesting in Walmart tonight. basically 2 bare wires with a blade fuse block in the middle and a max rating of 30W. Wonder if it would be worth it to get 4 of them and rewire the block? Would rather not but Im kinda stumped.

 

The headlamp will not come on until the headlight relay senses output from the alternator. No running = no headlamp.

Sounds like your fuse panel is loose, corroded or just plain shot. Replacing the OEM panel is a good first step when dealing with electrical issues.

Get one of the slick panels others have used, or shoot up to your neighborhood RadioShack and get some inline fuse holders (I like the weatherproof mini blade type).

 

Your life is going to be much less complicated when you excise that Fuse Panel and do something about new, reliable, power distribution.

Carve-out that stock Fuse Panel and drive a wooden stake through it!

Get a new fuse panel, in there, and un-complicate that bike!

 

Thanks guys! Any suggestions on where I can get a new panel and which one is a really good option?

 

I have heard people suggest going to Radio Shack for a fuse panel (which is where I will be going once I have the funds to replace mine). BTW: Mine looks fine as well, but I do not wish to take any chances. It is far easier to replace a fuse panel when it still looks good than to wait until it falls apart on you.

 

The RadioShack panel is very similar to the stock one. If you use it plan on replacing it in 25 years or so.

 

My Seca has the inline fuse system. It must have been put on there by the previous owner but he did it so well at first i thought it was stock. To bad he did'nt take care of the rest of the bike like that!

 

Found this online, what do you think of this one?

http://www.streetwires.com/products/fus ... eBlock.cfm

 

Nay that's a fused distribution block. WHat you want a is a fuse block designed for 4 input lines and 4 output lines with a fuse inbetween the input and output.
Like this one similar to the one from radio shack.

 

OK I see, but isnt putting something like that just replacing what is there? Thought it would be nice to go to the new kind of fuses with the tabs if possible. Would something like this be easier in the long run:

http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/fb4.shtml

Thanks again for all the replies, this site just rocks!

 

The 6-Place, Covered, Water resistant, new-style fuse panel from Wireworks.com has become a favorite.

I notices Chacal had some in his inventory.

You get get the 4 Regular spots and 2 to carry spares.

 

Just found this while tryin to find Fuse block/panels. Its from another forum but I thought it was worth posting here for others new to this like me.

http://www.xs11.com/tips/modifications/mods2.shtml

 

Make putting-in the New Fuse Panel easy.

Solder some new wires to the Fuse Panel and make two Pigtails that you splice into the wiring harness.

With the New Panel getting wired before going into the bike, you won't have to fight holding the New Panel in an awkwardly fashion to make your connections.

You just have to splice the pigtails on to the wires of the harness and you're done with it.

 

OK so here is an idea.
*Get the new fuse block shown below
* Cut out the old fuse block marking all the wires
* attach the insulated female connectors to all 8 wires
* attach to fuse box using female connectors, avoiding having to solder in place.

Sound good?

 

That works.

But, soldering is a nice way to go. One less place to develop a resistance.

 

Good point! Thanks. I was thinking the removable because I bought two (ebay auction $12) and thought carrying a spare I could just 'plug and play' on the road if need be.