YICS Tool Rental?

Does anyone have a YICS tool (Yam or Repro) they would be willing to rent out?
I am about to do my carbs and I need the tool for the synch.
The repros will probably not be available in time, so I thought I'd ask.
I will pay shipping both ways, plus whatever rental fee is appropriate.

Please let me know.

Thanks 8)

 

This guy is getting ready to take orders and ship the yics tool in about 2 weeks. He just posted this on another list. He is making the parts now.
$36.00 plus shipping.
http://xjbikes.com/Web_Links/l_op=visit/lid=20.html
Get your order in early

 

I've already sent in my order, but may not be able to wait that long.
Always been an impatient......

Thanks for the link.

 

It will probably be hard to get someone to turn loose of there tool. Even to rent it. Unless you have someone close by that will help you out.

 

Uhh...sorry sno, it says the search string is empty?

 

Here's the one I made. a little different in materials than the one Robert posted but made from the same specs.
I used some old push rods I had laying around for the spacers, but fuel line is a good idea Robert, I didn't think of that.

These are the specs. that Robert submitted
http://xjbikes.com/coppermine/displayim ... ize=1.html

 

Excellent!

I feel a home made tool adventure coming on!

I love making tools, you should see the pilot adjusting tool I made for my VF 750c.

Why Honda had to use pilot screws with a "D" drive I'll never know.

Thanks for the diagram, I think I even have most of the materials already.

I wonder if coarse thread rod would work as well, or is there need for fine adjustment?

 

Thread pitch is not an issue.

 

I like yours better than mine Rich, neater in appearance and a cushy handle to boot! Well done! I also like the tubing you used, neat finish. What did you use? I would have put a wing nut on the front of your washer stack so you don't have to monkey with a wrench to put the bugger in. Just a thought for next time.

 

I used some old push rods I had laying around out of a cat motor.
I didn't have a wing nut on hand when I slapped this together, I'll add one later.

 

I'm sorry, I was asking about the red squishy stuff. Silicone? Push rods are medium grade steel aren't they? I used steel fuel line to make it easier to cut. I am now thinking I should have used brass to prevent any nicking by inserting steel into the aluminum head. Haven't had any problems but you can't be too careful. The original diagram (it's in the archives, way in the back) that I used suggested copper but it was too blooming soft. I'm happy any way you look at it, I didn't have to shell out $100+ for the ruddy thing on e-bay. Local bike shops here don't even have the tool, and only one fellow had even heard of it. Yikes! Glad I wrench, I know I can count on myself to do the best job possible.

 

Yes it's silicone hose, I tried fuel hose the first time and it didn't hold up to the heat to good. I haven't tried this hose yet. Might have to get a better grade silicone. I'll let you know soon.

 

I'm still gathering the materials to build mine (having trouble finding the tubing!), but I've got to add that handle, Rich!!

 

Like Robert suggested , get some steel fuel line.

 

Just looking over the diagram again, the 3/8 fuel line is 3/8 OD correct?
Just wanted to clear this up as fuel line is sold as ID.

 

Yes OD you don't want to use fuel line though, it did not hold up to the heat when I tried it. Better off to find a heat resistant silicone hose.
You want it to be snug, but still be able to push the tool in all the way.

 

Seca 400 YICS Tool?

Hello all:

Does anyone know if the YICS system on a Seca 400 is similar to taht on the fours?

I just bought an '82 model and am currently getting her ready to go. Was planning on checking the valves and synching the carbs, but hadn't thought about YICS being an issue!

Thanks-
HH

 

Welcome HH:
I really can't help much with your question, sorry.
I'm not familar with the 400 seca, and I don't see anything about it on the xjcd either.
Do you know for sure that it is a yics motor. And did you say a 2 cyl.?
I've never heard anyone speak of a yics tool for a 2 cyl. but that doesn't mean that one isn't needed.
I'll try and see if I can find something.
Post some pics in the gallery.
Someone will probably be here shortly with just the right info you need .
Good luck

 

Re: SECA 400 YICS

Richard:

Thanks for your reply, and your research.

The Seca 400 is a twin, and yes, it's a YICS engine. But it doesn't have the passage on the back of the heads like your fours appear to.

I just bought the bike, returning to riding after a 20-year absence, and it's my first street bike. I'm still familiarizing myself with the Seca, trying to get everything cleaned, lubed, and adjusted before putting it on the road.

I assume that leaving the YICS passages open throws off the carb synchronization procedures?

Thanks again for any advice you can offer.

HH

 

HH;
Just a stab in the dark, but are the heads interconnected some how, or have some sort of tube between them? If not you may not need the tool. As long as the two are not connected I see no need for a tool. But it kinda doesn't make sense if there not connected why the YICS. I still haven't found anything, I'll keep trying.

 

Richard:

I think I found the answer, in a review of the Seca 400 in Cycle magazine back in 1982...

"Yamaha features its YICS...on both the Maxim and Seca 400s. However, unlike the four-cylinder Yamahas equipped with YICS, which use a bolt-on tube to house the waiting charge, the 400 YICS engine has its chamber cast and drilled directly in the cylinder head."

So my YICS passageway is cast into the head, and not accessible from outside.

In other reading about the YICS, I remember something about YICS not really functioning at high RPM, because there wasn't time for the charge to transfer between cylinders.

I've never synched carbs before, but would it be possible to do it a relatively high RPM, thus overcoming the YICS connection?

Just wondering...

Thanks again for your help-
HH

 

The whole point of the YICS is to improve the low speed operation.
They still use this today on the Banshee ATV.
What happens is at low speeds the air coming in is stopped by the closing of the intake valve. It then reverts back through the carb picking up a second fuel charge. Then, when the valve reopens, the air goes through the carb again picking up a third fuel charge.
Now admittedly the amount of air that reverts is smaller than the entire fuel/air charge, so you do not get a 3 times rich mixture, but you may pick up a 1.5 times rich mix.
The resulting ricness creates a pretty pronounced dead spot in the 2 stroke twins.
The YICS passage connects this sudden pressure to the vaccum being created in another cylinder, thereby preventing the reversion, or at least making it manageable.
I think you will still need to try and synch as close as possible at idle, but rechecking and synching at say 2-3000 rpm will put you right on the mark.

Hope this helps.

 

Nachoman:

Thanks for the info and advice.

I'm getting my Seca ready to put on the road, and want everything to be right. This will be my first time synching carbs, so I wish I didn't have the YICS to deal with, but I'll work through it as best I can.

Thanks again!

Regards,
HH

 

I have thought about setting up a pool of spare YICS/R tools that could be rented. Pay a deposit and a rental fee. Get your deposit back when the tool is returned.

I ave used tool pools form other forums where special tools are required (like timing belts on 944's). It works out pretty well if you can plan the work.

I have tried to put the price point low enough that most folks can buy a YICS/R outright.

If there is any interest I might be able to add a few tools to the next batch and keep them arounds as loaner/rentals.

 

The problem with this design of tool is that it does not seal the #1 port from atmosphere. It does isolate #2,#3 and #4.

It needs a seal at the washer/flange on the handle end. Otherwise your #1 carb will have a vacuum leak while syncing.

 

It also improves charge agitation in the intake tract because the YICS port is tangental to the intake tract.

 

It is not a big issue.

The tool has four seals. Assuming it is inserted from the left side of the engine; When clamped the 3 inner seals expand to seperate the carbs from each other and blocks the YICS passage. The 4th seal on the handle end is a press fit against the engine head and seals the YICS passage from the #1 carb to the bolt you removed.

Once in place sync, mixture and idle are just like any other bike.

 

Here is an OEM tool:

http://plan9.dnsalias.org:88/xj/photos/ ... C02077.JPG

Here is the one I make:

http://plan9.dnsalias.org:88/xj/product ... C02453.JPG

It is intended to be functional copy of the OEM tool. But the dimensions would still apply. I'll need to get the dimensions from a drawing since I haven't memorized them :wink:

 

Hi all, first time here, and currently restoring an 82 XJ750RJ. Can anyone recomment the best/easiest/cheapest sync guages for a first-time user? After having idle up & down issues, I cleaned the carbs and noticed the mixture screws were all set at around 4.75 turns out rather than 2.5. Is that crazy? I reset them to 2.5 and eyeballed the fuel screws to make the butterflies even. This has created more of an up/down idle problem, thus the need for the YICS tool & guages now.. But I did write down the original position of the fuel screws, so I may go back to those settings with the new 2.5 mixture settings and see how that works while waiting for the YICS tool in the mail.. (Got lucky on eBay; $58.) When I'm done, I'll offer it to whoever needs it. Maybe someone can send me pressure guages and I'll send them back with the YICS tool when I'm done? Let me know.. - mcane7@yahoo.com - Mike

 

I just made a yics tool tonight... should work ok I think, I need a larger washer for the handle end; I couldn't find one around tonight. And I still need to bend the handle.

I have everything here to make another one.
It cost me 11$ for everything but I ended up with enough stuff to make two. Not that I need to, but at least when it comes to lending it out I wont have to part with my only one.
Its not pretty but it should be functional.


here is a pic

 

Nice job Aschulhoff, good going. I've made my own, but I sure like Injuhneer's unit, pretty. I might even buy one if I get serious 'bout fixing bikes on more than an occasional basis.

 

Yours appears to be missing a seal on the adjuster end. If you look at the factory tool you can see it has 3 internal seals and one external seal.

If they aren't spaced correctly and have the seal on the outside the sync won't work.

 

And if the seals aren't a hi-temp material they will melt and get stuck in your motor.

 

Okay, so I've gone and bought all the little do-dads to make my own tool. The only thing that I'm having difficulty obtaining is the high-temp silicone hose (3/8" OD). I found some at McMaster-Carr but they have three different types: Firm, Soft, and NSF51 Soft (whatever that means). Can anyone recommend which type I should acquire?

Also, once I get it all assembled, how do you actually use it? Just back off on the wing nut until things are just snug but not tight (so that the tubing is not swollen), insert into the YICS chamber fully, and then tighten down the wingnut until the tool won't move?

For the end seal...facing the motor side, next to the big flat washer....I'm just using a rather large flat rubber washer that I got in the plumbing dept. at Ace Hardware. Hope it won't melt!

 

Thanks for the tool design, getting all the stuff together to put one together. I am really glad that I came across this site, alot of outstanding and useful information. I appreciate the posting, again thanks....

 

Has anybody found a source for high-temp silicone hose for this tool yet? If not, let me know. I might have a source for Mil-spec silicone aircraft-grade hose.

 

I made the tool for my XJ1100 to the exact measurements, I was not long enough to seal the # 3 and 4 cylinders. I had to make it longer. Anyone working on a XJ1100 keep this in mind.

 

Will this YICS tool pictured work on my 82 XJ1100?
TECHLINETOM

 

Silicone tubing is available at Summit Racing ( www.summitracing.com ) through Mr.Gasket. It is listed as vacuum hose. The O.D. of the tubing isn't listed but I will try to find out.
TECHLINETOM

 

Does anyone know if the YICS tool sketched by Snosherrif will work on an 86 XJ700S?

 

There is only One YICS Tool.
The Yanaha Special Tool.

I had always thought there was something funny about the Web / DYI version ... so I visited my Local Dealership and measured the Real McCoy.

The Rubber Hose sections on the Web DYI are off by a few mm's.

I measurued the real tool and put the exact measurements in a thread I can't find. Maybe because I came-up with the Brain-fart that eliminated the Tool if you stuff the YICS Passage.

 

Will this tool work on an 86XJ700S?

 

I'd bag the Tool.
Get a wooden dowel long enough to go ALL the way through the YICS Passage.
Undo the Plugs on BOTH Ends.
Cut "Patches" of old athletic sox and soak them in Carb Cleaner.
Shove them in one side and out the other until the Passage is CLEANED-OUT!
Put the Right Side Plug back in very LOOSE>
STUFF the Passage.
Using long strips of Cotton Tee-Shirt saturated with Marvel Mystery Oil ... stuff the Passage so tight that NO Air movement is possible.
Tighten the two Plugs.

Do the Sync and Tuning.
Open the Plugs and remove the Stufffing.

Done!

 

Yes, the YICS tool will work correctly in ALL xj-era bikes that have the YICS system in it! It is copied from an original factory tool that Yamaha specifies using in order to properly synchronize the carbs. It absolutely prevents any vacuum signal migration from one cylinder to another, thus allowing a synch to be true and not "contaminated" by a vacuum draw from another cylinder (besides the one being "synched") via leakage thru that YICS passage.

As Rick points out, there are other ways to accomplish the passage block-off! The YICS tool is what the factory recommends.

 

I have the tool.

It's not as messy as stuffing oil soaked tee-shirt in there.

 

yeah i'm trying to synch these carbs. you say to sneak it up to 1400 to 1600rpm, do you keep the revs up at that rpm to synch them? i set the idle @ 1500 and started there, i did 1&2 the bike started running better the rpm jumped to 2500 so i dropped the idle back to 1500 rechecked 3 the vacuum had increased bout a 1/8" passed where i checked marked so i rechecked it and set 4 to what 3 was reading. while doing that the rpms just took off was headed to 4000 when i cut the switch off. i reset the idle down to 1000rpm. it sounds fairly good. is there a rpm i can set it at to tweak the carbs at? and any idea why the rpms want to jump to 4000?