HOW TO: Install an aftermarket fuse box

This is a How-To on replacing the oe fuse box with a more reliable aftermarket ATO-style fuse box. Before we get started, we'll need to collect a few pieces. We'll need a fuse box. I picked mine up from the CARQUEST store where I work. It's a reboxed Littelfuse brand going by the part number 350417BP (.pdf).



In addition, you'll need a couple of mounting screws (8x1"), electrical tape, a couple zip-ties, a box of female insulated spade terminals, and fuses (ATO10 amp x 3 & ATO20 amp x 1). Tools? Phillips Screwdriver and Wire Cutters/Crimpers/Strippers.

Okay... Ready? Here we go. Let's meet the patient:



My wife's '82 XJ650J Maxim.

Here are the steps...
1. Remove Seat.
2. Remove Right-Hand Access Cover exposing battery.
3. Disconnect battery.
4. Unscrew old fuse block.



5. Note fuse sizes and wire colors.



6. Pry open metal wire retainer ring at the base of oe fuse box.



7. Place zip-ties around left- and right-hand wire bundles and unwrap tape.
8. Cut wires at crimp joints.
9. Take new fuse box and position it for mounting, making sure all the wires will reach their respective terminals.
10. Strip wires and install female insulated spade terminals.



11. Tape wires bundles and attach terminals to fuse box.
12. Using the two #8x1" screws, mount the fuse box.



13. Install fuses and dust cap.



14. Reconnect the battery.
15. Install side cover and seat.

That's it. You're done!

Ed. Note: It occurs to me that if you have a tool caddy you'll want to make sure you allow room for it.



Notice how I've bent the spades a little to make the connections a little more convenient. I still need to label the fuses. From left to right, they're 10A IGNITION, 10A SIGNAL, 10A HEAD L., and 20A MAIN.

 

very clean install!

i like it. mine isnt as nice looking but its functional...

d

 

Thanks! I'm off to do my bike now (practiced on the wife's :wink: ).

 

Depending on the Model and year of Manufacturer (1983 ~ 1984) 650/750K,MK you might find the Fuse Panel wiring from the Wiring Harness Side has very little wire to try and crimp-on the terminal ends.

If this is the case ... you will have to solder on some extensions before there is enough wire to reach the new Fuse Panel.

Be sure to use the same gauge wire if it is necessary to solder on extensions.

 

very nice job, this is actually the first thing i did to my bike and its the only thing on it that looks good. You may want to mention its not a bad idea to get a box with some extra panels in it so in the very least you can store some spare fuses in case of an emergency.

 

I like it! now i have something more to do to my bike.

new to this, I like the pic's

 

I've just completed the tutorial on how to install a fuel filter... if anyone's interested.

 

Props times two.
You just keep working away and I will keep on learnin.
A child could follow these directions they are so well written.
I now have two weekend project to complete due to your direction
Keep up the good work, I will be watching

*EDIT*
Speeding up, Made to 2nd gear

 

It looks tremendous! One question though. That fuse box is max rated at 15 amps. One of those fuses is a 20 amp fuse. Can that box handle the 20 amp usage?

 

Good question! If you ask Littelfuse, the answer is no. But, from personal experience, it can. There is no difference between the terminal sizes on a 20 amp fuse holder and a 15 amp fuse holder. I looked at Bussman and Cole Hersee and a few at Radio Shack... They all appear to be the same. I really can't figure our why Littelfuse gave it a 15 amp rating. So, I guess "use at your own risk."

EDIT: I was think more on this and thought I would add that I wouldn't recommend filling the fusebox full of 20 amp fuses. The heat from five 20 amp fuses would be a bit much. However, in our situation, we're only using one 20 amp fuse followed by three 10 amp fuses. I think we're well within the heat tolerances for this fusebox.

 

im just wondering how you find these blade style fusbox's anywhere let alone radio shack! i spent all day today maybe 4 hours of searching looking for ANY fuse box. no one had them. guess im gonna have to order it online. im getting one for my 750 seca. any thoughts on the proper one to get for that?

 

Hey IkeO, I sell these over at:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... rt=45.html

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM PARTS:

Fuseboxes:


q) Wirewerks 6-position Enclosed ATC Fusebox (mini push-in blade style)....the one that everyone recommends using. Includes 6 ATC fuses, 2 x 20A and 4 x 10A.

Size: 4" long x 1-1/8" wide (not including spade terminals) x 1-1/2" tall (including cover). Note that this is a "side-terminal" design...the male spades point outwards away from the sides of the fusebox.

HCP378BC Wirewerks 6-position ATC style Fusebox:
$ 13.00 plus shipping


nnn) Circuit ID Decal for the above wirewerks 6-circuit HCP378BC fusebox. Printed on a clear adhesive backed long-life decal material, this decal specifies (in white print) the circuit "name" (MAIN, HEAD, TURN, IGN.), the fuse amp rating (20A, 10A), and the wire lead color code (RED, R/Y, BRN, R/W) so you can have the same circuit ID info on your replacement fusebox as on your original! Applies to the outside of the HCP378BC clear fusebox cover. The two empty circuit positions are titled "SPARE".

HCP393 Wirewerks 6-position fusebox ID Decal:
$ 4.00 plus shipping


u7) Bottom Gasket for the above wirewerks 6-circuit HCP378BC fusebox. The fusebox has an "open" bottom, which would allow moisture and, eventually, corrosion to get into this otherwise sealed fuseblock. This die cut 1/16" rubber gasket has pre-punched mounting holes.

HCP382 wirewerks 6-position fusebox Bottom Gasket:
$ 3.50

 

Has anyone else tried to install the blade style fuse box on an 82 or 83 XJ750 Maxim?
There is not enough room for it under the seat. The seat rests on it and sits up noticeably to high. I will have to look for something else to do for it. On my previous XJ I just replaced the fuse box with some waterproof inline fuse holders. I will probably do that unless I can find something better.

I am guessing maybe it could be the corbin seat that causes this on my XJ.
Does anyone think putting the fusebox on the underside of the airbox cover would cause a problem?

I have decided to solder some wire on to make them all longer and running the wires to the tool caddy under the back of the seat. Seems like a good place for the fusebox.

 

it may not be the same on my 81 seca but it may help. i actually had to remvoe the plastic (registration paper?) holder underneath the seat which gave me just enough room for clearance to close the seat. if you have one try removing it and see if it closes. with that piece in i coulnt close m seat.

 

It doesn't have that. It is a corbin and doesn't have the original pan on the seat.

 

You don't necessarily HAVE to mount the New Fuse Panel on top of the Airbox.
If you cleverly fabricate a Hard Plastic "Plate" ... there's enough room to have the Battery Rubber Hold-down hold the fabricated "Plate" to the outside of the Battery.

All you need to do is splice-in some long extensions to the Wiring Harness and bring them down in front of the side of that Battery.

With the new Fuse Panel mounted to the Hard Plastic Plate ... you just need to make your Pigtails long enough to swing the Plate with the Fuse Panel mounted on it ... out of the way ... when you want to take the Battery out of the Bike.

I had to do this Mod on a Honda with a Corbin Seat. We "Notched" a tight
letter "H" Cut into the Plastic Panel and threaded the Battery Tie-down through the H.

Once you get the Battery Tie-down through the open slit pf the H-cut it stays put ... nice and tight to the Battery and won't move until you release the Tie-down allowing the Plate to be moved out of the way for Battery removal.

 

that's a really slick idea rick, thats definitely how i'll be doing mine!

 

I don't know if there are any pictures yet of the inline fuse holder option, but I put a couple pics in my gallery of my fuse replacement operation results. It probably would have looked a little nicer if I had some red heatshrink tubing, but I was out, so it had to be green.

 

blackflagmn: what fuse block did you use, and where'd ya get it?

 

I picked up 4 of the Mini Inline fuse holders at Checker Auto parts. I cut out the old fuse block and wired the inline fuses in one at a time. When I was done wiring I just zip tied all four inline fuse holders together and then used the holes in the air cleaner cover to zip tie the whole thing onto the cover.

Just an fyi for anyone doing this project, you need something bigger than a 25w soldering iron to solder wires of this gauge. I struggled for quite a while trying to get the wires to heat up with a 25 watt before I finally borrowed a 40 watt iron, that did the trick just fine.

 

I work at a parts store and all I was able to find was the glass style. After alot of digging I found one that has a covered top that screws down with either 4 or 6 fuses. My supplier was out of the 6 fuse style so I just got the 4. I have a 82 Maxim and it fits great under the seat. It also has spade terminals for easy upgrades or replacement.





Minneapolis guys can PM me and I can set you up. Retail price was about $14-$15.

 

I have the replacement fusebox from Chacal and a 750 Maxim. I made a cardboard model of the new fusebox, and the amount of space available seems really tight according to my measurements. I have searched and found pictures of 650 and 550 fusebox replacements, but I have not run across many Maxim 750 pictures. Can anyone offer a link or give some hints about whether or not this is going to fit, and if you had to move the location a bit, how you did it?

I guess this is another option:

and that sounds like a great idea. My only concern is that the side of the battery behind the side cover might get more road spray than under the seat. Am I off base on this? The spade terminals on my replacement box are pretty exposed.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and/or links to pictures.

 

The Terminal Ends of the Wiring to the Fuse Box were not exposed.

Solder and two Heat Shrink tubes prevent moisture from entering at all.

 

Thanks, Rick! I also looked at that alternative location you showed under the seat on top of the battery box, but have to see if the terminals from the fusebox would fit under the main wiring harness. Soldering the wires to the terminals and using heat shrink would save some room.

More head scratching ahead of me. I'll keep you posted.

 

Great How-to! Thanks Gamaru! Went with the 6 post model so I can wire in a receptacle for charging the ipod and blackberry easily!

 

Just an Editors Note to Fuse Box Replacement Wiring.

The Fuse Box is "A Critical Junction"

If you have the ability, ... Solder the Wires to the Fuse Box.
Avoid using Crimp Connections and Terminal Ends.

Where possible: Use Color Coded Wire matching the scheme.

Soldering and Heat Shrinking ... Splices and Connections will reduce the possibility of a Bad Crimp getting loose.
The Soldered Connection is permanent and can't come loose.

Use Nail Polish to Color-code similar colored Crimed-on Terminals.
RED = Hot = +12Volts - ON

(Use the RED Nail Polish to Color around the HOT Terminal of your Battery, ... too!)

 

A bit excessive and pricey but good sounding...
Would this fit in the same general area as the original fuse panel on an 82 750 Maxim?

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... kitoptions

Size (not including mounting ears): 81mm x 58 mm x 30mm (3 1/4" x 2 1/4" x 1 1/8") - (l/w/h)



Any general comments on his relay kits? I found his site while researching replacement horns. He appears to make good quality kits, but I'm not sure if they are over kill and way overpriced.

 

What's wrong with it?

Violates K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple, stupid!)

You don't want a Buss.
You want individual Circuits,
To properly install that device ... each Circuit Wire needs to have the stripped end "Tinned" with solder.

If you have to solder a connection ... the connection should be Rattle Proof.
The Screws to connect the Circuit Wires to the Buss could vibrate loose.

That's very handsome.
Belongs protecting something stationary and not subject to the elements.

 

I agree. Very cute; but a big bundle of potential failures waiting to happen once subjected to our environment.

Anything we use on a bike has to be Heavy Duty Automotive grade, and then some. The original fuse box was primitive but rugged; only age and a poor choice of materials (the metal used for the clips) made it obsolete.

The modern blade-type fusebox is even more rugged, having eliminated the glass fuses.

 

Okey dokey. But at least it's pretty. LOL

 

Metal_Bob – Good link !
Although the PC-8 is wrong design (bus).

At same website I found:
Metri-Pack 280 3 Fuse Fuseholder for ATM Type Mini Blade Fuses
(3-circuit-mount.jpeg)

I have already replaced my fuses using 4 in-line fuse holders like this:
Cooper-Bussman 30A Fuseholder for ATM Type Mini Blade Fuses
(c-bfuseholderlong.jpeg)

The Metri-Pack 280 is so compact, it makes me think about redoing using two of them.

 

Im going to be doing this to my 81 XJ650 Maxim, a little touch of modern lol

 

This is how mine turned out. I DID need to relocate its' position due to seat clearance issues. This holds both size blades without any issues. I plan I n redo it sometime. I ran out of time to make it neater.

 

I've got 6 terminal fuse box that I think I'll have to relocate on my Seca . Could someone tell the AWG for the wiring into the fuse box and where can I splice into to add another circuit to the fuse box that would be keyed the ignition switch so it only works with the key on? Thanks Jaimie

 

Okay why are pictures missing from some of these DIY write-ups?

 

Some of the photos were hosted by another website. When this site transitioned from the old software those links could have become broken. Some of the members have also moved on and may have deleted their pictures from the hosting site that they used. If you do a google search they may still come up for you to view and save.

 

ah roger

 

Does anyone know how you would wire up a box just like this?

 

You would not without needing to make an entire new wiring harness for the bike. That is a common bus fuse block and the XJ series does not have a common bus electrical system. You can use it to add accessory circuits though.

 

I thought I'd share some bits of my installation on the '81 XJ550 Seca. I'm a fan of the shrinkable butt splices shown in the first picture. The results were immediate in that all lights were nice and bright after the change over!

 

Nice work. The next owner will thank you for not using the same color wire for all of the splices.

 

This is the Chacal kit, but I upgraded the butt splices.

 

I was going to ask if that was from Len. Looks great. Do you have plans for the two spares, such as a USB charger?

 

oh, not yet. I'm getting this bike back on the road after a little much neglect and since it's my 1st ride, going to focus on being a good rider/owner to start with.

 

I do like the look of these replacement fuse boxes. Years ago I replaced all 4 of my fuses with inline ATC fuse holders, soldered connections and heat shrinked. Durable, but sure likes like a birds nest under the seat.

Someday I may clean it up with these nice little fuse holders.

 

Ok I have a Yamaha project and the entire fuse box is gone what should I do ?

 

You up for building a new wiring harness? There are only so many things to connect.

 

Yes I would wire it
. Where would I get the fuse box

 

Post up a pic of what you have. A missing fusebox is not of itself a reason to build an entire wiring harness.