to spray... or not to spray....paint?

Hey everyone! I've got a minor dilema. Not to long ago I purchased a 1986 maxim X. I've had lots of bikes,(all Yamahas) all were in great condition when I purchased them. This maxim x , being the first project bike of mine is now finally in good working order and goes great. Now though, I'm wanting to get rid of the old beat up, original paint job and would like to paint it. 1st problem is the cost of a new paint job. I never imagined that prepping and painting a bike would cost me $250.00 to $400.00!! I just wont have that kind of cash laying around anytime soon.The bikes paint is really faded and stone chipped. The guys who had it before me must not of ever done anything to the paint. My question finally is regarding spray paint. is it possible to achieve a really good quality rattle can paint job. Any opinions, tips or instuctions on how to achieve a great looking paint job for very little money would be greatly appreciated and welcome.

 

Sorry - I can't help you on your question, but I am curious:

Are you going to be painting only the glossy stuff - fenders and tank?
Or are you painting everything that was originally painted - including the block? Why or why not?

I am curious because I am considering the same thing. But I don't want to paint the glossy stuff because the original paint is in great shape - and looks awesome! It is the black with a very light blue flake.

 

Robista361;
I bought my bike in October and it sounds like your tank was in the same shape as mine.
I followed instructions on the xjcd, and painted my tank with spray cans.
Well judge for yourself, you can see some pics here at this link and in my photo gallery. I think it came out fantastic. Paint, sandpaper and swirl remover cost around $50.00.
I"m in the process of painting another tank right now. Silver metalflake.
I hope it comes out as well. I'll be priming it tomorrow.
PM me if you have any questions.

Richard03; My tank was black with the blue specs also, and would have loved to have kept the same color. but I couldn't get paint that color in a spray can. So I went with the gloss black.
I put 4 coats of primer, 5 coats of black, and 5 coats of clear coat.
I bought my paint at advance auto parts. Dupli-Color Brand.
You can see there paints here.

www.duplicolor.com

http://www.slygrin.net/xjpics/html/rblankenship_2.html

 

Wow. It's one thing to read the XJ cd and think it can be done; it's quite another to see actual results. Beautiful, Rich!!

 

Thanks Mark, It was alot of work but well worth it in the end.

 

Wow Rich, beautifully done! I have never seen spray can turn out that well! Robista, PJ1 makes an excellent paint line. I've used their Case Black on engines (stuff is harder than nails, I couldn't clean a whoops out with any type of solvent I tried, MEK, acetone, laqour thinner, paint thinner, mineral spirits, you get the picture). I have used their Satin and Gloss Black for touch up on frames and parts. Beautiful stuff but it runs about $8 USD a can. If I were to do my frame on the cheap, that is what I would use. I however have chosen the powder coat system because of it's durability. You can have your own powder coating system for about $80 from Harbor Freight. Eastwood sells one too at twice the price. But that route would require you to blast, clean and shoot your own frame as well a get the powder baked on. It can be done at home but to get the InfraRed lamps is an expense of it's own. $400 is not bad when you consider what all goes into it. Check out this thread Sand blasting and Powder coating How much should it cost on the XJ Chat forum. It goes into detail on the in's and out's of do it yourself powder coating and painting. Good luck!

 

Check this out. You can watch a video on how it works too.
Couple problem's, 1) your Limited to size unless you build your own oven large enough for a frame.
2) Who has a spare oven laying around?
I guess you could buy a used one cheap.
I just thought it was kinda neat.
Safe for the enviroment, sweep up the mess and thro it in the trash.

 

The oven is nice but InfraRed lamps can be used, just bake one section at a time. This is how you do automobile frames at home. It is expensive in terms of initial cost and then the amount of electricity used. It will be noticable. I was able to source a used electric oven (220 VAC is a lot cheaper than 110 in terms of electricity useage) for free when someone remodeled their house. One of the benifits of living in suburbia. If I were in B.F. Egypt, I suppose that would be a bit more challenging. Do NOT use the oven in the house or a gas unit (the curing gasses could cause health issues and your wife would never forgive you for ruining her oven). I've yet to break out my powder coating system and use it, I've just been to occupied with other issues in life. I will get to it this summer (at least if I've got anything to say 'bout it). Rich, I think your link didn't get through, could you please repost it? Thanks again.

 

http://www.eastwoodco.com/coupon.jsp?co ... flash.html



Try this Robert, You've probably already seen this. You mentioned Eastwood.

 

Yup. Link worked nicely. Thanks. I've got the whole ball of wax, just need to get off my butt and use it.

 

thanks, jdrich48 and everyone else ! how and where did you get your xjcd explaining the process. Ive talked to a lot of bodyshops around here getting estimates for a new paint job and every one of them recomend not to do it with a spray can.They say " it wont last" and "it will curdle up when to hot, or if you spill a little gas on it", that "it will rust through in a year", and last but not least, "a professional paint job will never stick to a rattle can job". All so negative. looking at you paint job is definatley inspiring.A very nice job indeed! Is there any way you can walk me through the steps? Any one else out there with pics and experiences with a rattle can paint job? How long should they last?

 

Here's a few pics of the work I done this morning, on the tank I'm painting now.
I'm using a self etching primer, for bare metal. It has maximum adhesion & corrosion resistance. Also made by Duplicolor.
The paint will be Silver specks acrylic lacquer.

When I'm finished this tank will be for sale.
If anyone might be interested, and would like it painted another color. Let me know in the next week, or it will be silver speck.
I also have both petcocks, cap & key, fuel sending unit, and the emblems.
Once painted I cannot ship for at least 3 weeks, due to letting the paint cure. OR... you could buy it know and have it painted yourself. Save me alot of work

This tank fits an 82 XJ1100J Markings on the emblem mounts are 10M, which designates the model

 

Robista361;
The new xjcd ver.4 can be ordered probably next week. It's the newest version.
Don't leave home without it.
It's an excellent piece of equipment to own.
Well worth the $10.00
http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... .html#5114

I'm not a real paint person, but if it's preped right any good paint should work. I wouldn't put to much into what that guy told you. But then again my paint has only been on a few months, time will tell. It might fall slam off next week, but I will have learnt something, and had a nice looking tank for a few months anyway
But if you can't afford a professional job, and this only last 2 years for $50.00 you really haven't lost anything, and in 2 years you might be able to afford a prof. job.

PM me with your email addy and I'll send you a copy of the article.

I did get some gas on my tank about 5 weeks after I painted it. and it did leave a spot. But some wax took it right out. Keep in mind the paint was still pretty fresh, given time to cure the clear coat should hold up fairly well.
Acrylic lacquer was used on automobiles for years and held up quite well.
I really wouldn't be afraid of trying it( apparently).
Just keep to the instructions and you won't have a problem.
Keep in mind that it's alot of work, but all the prep work is what makes it turn out so well.
Good luck whatever you choose.
Happy trails

Or you could choose to run around with a tank that looks like this.

 

auchely i watched a guy paint a 67 mustang GTA fast back with a paint roller and small foam brush and he has one 4 trophies for the paint job and i helped a friend paint his S-10 5 years ago with a rattel can and some enamel or gloss coat stuff in a can and his truck still shines and he goes mudding with it so i think a rattel can on a bike that hopfely is cleaned every time it gets dirty should out last the 5 years

 

i have painted my trucks with a paint brush!

it dont come out as nice as w/a paint gun

but i did it to protect it and not for aesthetical reasons!

ai have thought about using a roller, does it really work?

how do u get a roller paint all shiney n'stuff?

 

well he just mixed the paint till he liked it put some metal flakes from a grinder in with it and roled it on then let it dry and did it over and over like 10 times and then he got that gloss coat stuff and sprayed it on the car and panels and left it it looked nice (the paint colors he mix i think were black,maroon,red,blue,ornge and just put the dust stuff from the grinder in with it and roled it on

 

nò polishing and rubbing?

did he use primer first?

i wanna try that on my jeep!

if u have more info i would appreciate it.

thx

 

i dont know what type of paint it was he said he bought it at the hardware store but he wouldent tell his secret. and the gloss coat stuff i guess you can buy in a rattel can dont know how much he used or where he got it or how much it cost but it looks nice he said he spent less than $300 to paint the car. afraid i dont know rember any thing els he said but he said you haf to use the right kind of paint but he wouldent tell me what kind.

i know it came in paint can's like what you would get house paint or paint thiner and stuff in but i guess that dosent narrow it down sorry

 

I just started "Spray" painting my XJ 600 after my crash. After I get it finished (Clear coat) it will look really good. So far it is only semi glossy because of the lack of clear coat.

 

cool secaii ! post some pics when your finished, so we can see how it came out. What color are you going with?

 

I'm new, so I don't know about your crash (glad you're here to write about it), but I'm curious if you dented the tank at all. If you did, did you fix it somehow before painting? I've lived w/ a dent in my tank since I've had it (it fell over once in the prev. owner's garage). Just wodnering if there's a way to fix it - not too drift too far off-topic (after all, if I fix the dent, I'll obviously need the painting tips herein ).

 

hi and welcome! Im not much newer than you are and it seems like there are a lot of helpful people in this forum.I hope any of us can help out.
To answer your question... if you have a dent or ding(depending on severity) the easiest way to hide it is with spot/glazing puddy which you can buy by the tube or can at your local auto store.First you clean the area your working on and make sure its clean! Then with some 300-400 grit sand paper, sand in and around dented area.It doesnt hve to be down to bare metal,but make sure its scuffed down real good. Clean area again making sure you have all the dust you made off. you will need a plastic spreader(also found at auto supply store). Put some of that glazing puddy on the spreader and apply to dented area working from one side of the dent to the other, overlapping each pass.Once youve made it across the dent let it dry for a few hours and sand smooth with 400-600 grit paper and repeat the process until the dent is filled smoothly.If your dent is deep or you have creeses you may want to use bondo first to build it up,then use the glazing puddy.Just remember not to rush and not to apply thick layers at one time.Hope this helps a bit

 

It is going to be black. The tank will stay the same. All of the plastics will be black. After I save up some money, I am going to take me wheels in to have them powder coated red, so that the tank isn't the only thing with red on it lol. I will post some before the accident pics, and then I will post some of it now, and more as I get the paint closer to finished.

My accident wasn't that bad. It was caused by a severe head shake while I was coming to a stop at a stop sign. I had never experianced a head shake before and I tensed up, which in turn caused me to lock up the front brake. You can see the trend lol... My tank was not damaged (thank goodness). And as far as the post regarding how to fix a dent or ding, that is exactly what I would have suggested.

 

What is a headshake?

 

That is what it was called in the accident report. It was my front end, shaking back and forth violently.


P.S. I uploaded some pics of the bike, before the repair work started. You can see what the paint looked like before the crash, and still looks like on the tank. The rest is now Black. I will take some pictures and uplaod them (if my wife will ever get her pictures off the dang camera lol)

 

that last picture posted looks just like my tank except my emblem is broken, just sent it to the body shop for somr custom paint and have the broken stuff taken off and filled in. the spray can tank looks awsome.. that came out great.

 

Hey guys you have to check this out this web page. What this guy does to his bike with spray paint is sick

http://kzbobber.grumpersgarage.com/

 

awesome link sommers, very inspiring.Wish I had time, for an in depth project like that! Hopefully someday.....

 

The way I read it, he scrapped spray paint for powdercoating: "The new method is powder coating the tank to provide a solid base coat."

A cool project at any rate.

 

Nice work, I never thought of powder coat as a base for spray paint though. Outside the box on that one. With the strength powder coating offers, why not just get the frame done the color you ultimately wanted in the first place??? Good job to him all the same, he worked hard to make what he wanted. Can't argue about his devotion. Good link CT.

 

i wonder if he did the real "Powder Coating" using an oven or used the spray cans thet simulate powder coating?

 

How could you simulate powder coating? The finish looks exactly the same as paint. Not too challenging I would think. Durability is another matter, no simulating that.

 

powder coating in a can. Have you ever seen it at the automotive store?

 

You pulling my leg? No, can't say that I have. Have you? I'd be very interested to see it.

 

yeah, I ive seen it at advance auto part stores, and at VIP. It is basicly a powder coat simulation that comes out of a can. Unlike real powder coating, it doesnt need to be electrostaticly, or heat induced. I'm just wondering which route he took?

 

You might ask CT where he stumbled across his link. I didn't see any link info other than the guys site but I'm sure with his talent, he has something out there as well as his pictures. Powder coat in a can, sounds fishy. You first, I'm not convinced.

 

Oh I found the link at http://www.armbell.com/forum/viewtopic. ... orum=kz400 I was all set on buying a 1982 Kawasaki 305LTD for $100 a few days ago and was reading up on it but I think the guy who’s bike that is Member name arai59 at the Kawasaki twin forum.
Hope this helps.

 

woops! Im sorry for that miss information I gave. I was getting powder coating confused with anodizing. Those cans of paint I mentioned above were to simulate the anodized look.I know, I know... BIG difference.Sorry Bout that folks

 

Ah, yes there is a very large difference between the two. I have seen the "anodized" appearance kits from Eastwood. They look good but for all the work, you may as well get it anodized to begin with. About 4 or 5 years back, Hot Rod, CarCraft and a few other of the car rags ran articles (near simultainiously) on anodizing at home. Good deal, just takes a little sulfuric acid, a 2 amp battery charger, copper wire, aluminum wire, a large bucket, food coloring, and a big pot of boiling water. I'll try to find the articles, I bought all of them and have them somewhere. Gotta try it some day soon, I'll keep you posted.

 

I finally sold the xj1100 fuel tank. It's on it's way north of the border, and I didn't have to paint it. Glad of that.

 

AS I just spent some money on automotive paint and have done a lot of re-search on the subject. You can get a nice paint job from rattle can paint. The issues with rattlecan are durability. Since the rattlecan paint does not have any hardening agent in them, they will only last a short time. I would not try to clearcoat over the top unless you use rattlecan clear. The reason for this is real clearcoat will lift the paint.

However, no matter how you want to do it, prep is the key. Don't skip or try to cut corners on prepping or it will show up in the finished results.

 

I painted mine with spray cans, you can see it here.

http://www.slygrin.net/xjpics/html/rblankenship_2.html

 

Man...does anyone here have a bike that looks worse than mine???

 

Yup, she's on the back porch minus her powerplant and covered in a blue tarp. Sad scene, but I'll get to her.

 

hey jdrich. Did you use professional clearcoat on that, or just glossy black?

 

5 coats of gloss black and 5 coats of clear coat in a can made by the same people.

 

Nice. Looks good! Have you spilled gas on it yet to see how the paint holds up? I don't mean intentionally of course.

 

Yes about a month after I painted it I got some on it and thought I'd ruined it. But a little wax brought it right back.
I hope it was just because the paint was still fairly fresh. Haven't spilled anymore since then, knock on wood.

 

Kewl, just curious. Again, nice paint job!

 

Thanks, and your right about the prep work. Without that a good job is not possible.