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Front Wheel Spacer? (now with image!)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by luvmy40, Jun 28, 2008.

  1. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    OK, I want to run this by some of you experts.
    When I put the new rubber on my Seca I changed the front wheel bearings. When I dis-assembled the wheel bearing/spacer group there was a spacer that appears in the Haynes manual that was not present (part #8 in the attached image).
    Upon inspecting the wheel assembly and comparing what I had in front of me to the diagram, I determined that the spacer in question is superfluous to the wheel position or operation. As the wheel had been exhibiting no symptoms ( the bearings were 28 years old and could see no reason not to replace them since the wheel was off) of malfunction, I reassembled as it had come apart. Everything seemed to be fine except that the castellated nut torques in rather low on the cotter pin holes.

    [​IMG]

    Does anyone know the purpose of this spacer?
    The bearings and seals all seated properly and everything lined up correctly.
    The only reason that I am bringing this up is that yesterday, for a brief period, the front brakes seemed to be hanging up a bit. It didn't last long and seems to be fine now.
     
  2. Broke_Dirty_Maxim

    Broke_Dirty_Maxim Member

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    From what I could tell, the spacer is there for a reason. It is there to maintain the proper relationship of the wheel between the forks. Without it, that is being done by the brake calipers/pads/rotors. So it appears there is no mechanical deficieny but you are actually putting more stress on the brakes than there needs to be.
     
  3. Hillsy

    Hillsy Member

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    It appears to be a spacer for between the bearings - which would be essential in keeping the bearings spaced properly and the wheel positioned correctly between the forks. Although there should also be a longer spacer between the bearings as they are about 3 inches apart.
     
  4. Nick

    Nick Member

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    Your picture is only showing one half of the parts inside the front wheel.
    The part you are refering to is a flange spacer item #2 on Yamaha's parts drawing.
    It is pushed over the actual spacer item #1 on Yamaha's parts drawing (not shown on yours, possibly also #1) and it's purpose is to center the long bearing spacer so you can easily insert your axel thru the hub once assembled.
     
  5. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    looks like the small diameter of that flange should rest on the inner race of the bearing, locating the bearing on the wheel
    unless in the center of the hub there is a shoulder cut that the spacer fits completely into, then it might only center the long spacer
    you want the axle nut to tighten on the inner race of the bearings
    i think you should get one
     
  6. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    Thanks for the replies.
    The brake problem seems to have gone away. I do about 100 miles a day and it has not reoccurred in the last 200 miles or so.
    I will PM chacal to see if he has this available. I may not tear the wheel apart unless the brake issue comes back.at this spacer is not

    I will also add that in the UK manual the axle orientation is reversed in relation to the speedo drive. so the possibility does exist that this spacer is not used universally.

    I really need to get an OEM service manual!
     
  7. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Also another Chacal item.
     
  8. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    Polock is correct. The spacers between the bearings carry the tension from torquing the axle. If the spacer isn't there the axle tension is carried as a side load in the bearing. They don't like that.

    The equivalent spacer was missing from the rear wheel on my Venture, which I believe contributed to a bearing failure.
     
  9. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    i just took off the front axle nut on mine for a shine (rusty nut, but thats another story) and the fork leg never moved, i would think without the right spacer it would have sprung out, and the castle nut would thread on too far
     
  10. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    I'm not arguing with this. Just pointing out what I observed when assembling the wheel/bearings/spacers.

    The bearings are fully seated and the long "axle spacer" is seated to the inner race on both sides. The seals both seated properly as did the speedo drive and keeper.

    After torquing the axle nut and tightening the pinch bolt, the wheel spins freely.

    Chacal is checking to see if he has any or can get me one. (or maybe just researching the spacer) I still may not do anything as the brake problem seems to be gone.

    Has anyone actually put eyes on the spacer in question? how thick is it? does it seat between the bearing and wheel hub or between the axle spacer and bearing race???
     
  11. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Okay, I took apart a wheel and found the elusive #8 spacer........

    First of all, it's no where as big and pronounced in appearance as the diagram would make it appear.

    Second, it slides over the left end of the long spacer tube and sits, just barely, on the left end of it.

    Third, it's an incredibly thin shim washer with an inward flange on the ID that allows it to center onto the long spacer tube.

    Fourth, I can easily understand why people may not replace them when they do the wheel bearings. It's so thin and small it seems insignificant, and you'll beat the heck out of it with your drift/punch while trying to drive the bearings out. And it's easy to lose. Or bend into a pretzel shape while trying to remove it from the spacer tube.

    Good thing I have them available:

    HCP1794 OEM front axle left wheel bearing SPACER FLANGE, fits all XJ550, XJ650, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900RK models. Use 1 per bike. Each:
    $ 2.50


    By the way, there is a similar style shim washer used on the rear wheel axle, too.

    Should you install it? I would say yes, for some of the reasons outlined above. Yamaha wouldn't have speified it if they didn't feel it was necessary. Will you permanently and irrevocably damage your wheel, bearings, or forks if you operate the bike for a few hundred miles without out? Probably not.

    Just be aware that you'll have to drive out the left side wheel bearing in order to install it............

    By the way, my definition of "thin" is this: .0260"
     
  12. luvmy40

    luvmy40 Member

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    Thanks Len!
    Does it actually shim the left side bearing out? It seems to me that this would cause the seal to be proud of the hub face and interfere with the speedo drive assy.
    Just trying to get claification. I have put 4500 mi on this bike since I got it and who knows when the spacer went AWOL? I really don't think my bearings were bad to begin with I just wanted to add a little PM to the picture when I changed the tire.
     
  13. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Mmmmmm....I guess it does. Like I said, it's REALLY thin. I don't believe it would cause problems with the speedo drive because, well, it's supposed to be in there!
     
  14. 3MAXIMS

    3MAXIMS Member

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    image.jpeg I am replacing the bearings in my xj550 when I took it apart it has the long spacer with the thin spacer and an additional spacer shown in photo any ideas on what is going on here?
     
  15. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  16. 3MAXIMS

    3MAXIMS Member

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    I went to the link you provided and read it. I guess my problem is why was there the extra washer(the one at the bottom of the picture) in it . I have looked at the Yamaha parts breakdown it does not show the extra washer.
     
  17. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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  18. 3MAXIMS

    3MAXIMS Member

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    image.jpeg Here is the picture of the washers for the speedo drive. So the washer in my picture seems to be an extra.
     
  19. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Well, it looks like you have all the parts plus an extra. You never really know what a PO might do. Add to that the extra part has seen better days, as it is cracked and deformed.

    My thought would be to just build it per print while paying close attention to how the wheel rotates and how the disc is centered within the caliper. I don't own a 550, but maybe some other members will have some other thoughts.
     

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