Coil. Wires Removed. Illusrated.

To remove and replace the Spark Plug Wires you have to do a bit of surgery.
I used a Dremel and a High-speed cutter.
On a line with the Spark Plug Wire, grind out the case and expose the wire.

After the wire is exposed; cut relief to expose the sides of the wire, too.
Following the wire back, cut until you find the end of the wire where it is pushed-on to the electrode tip you see exposed in these photographs whic look like the top of a nail.

Once the wire is exposed and relief cut around it ... twist the wire until it breaks loose and can be pulled out the front of the Coil.

There are two options for replacing the new wire in the Coil.
1. Just push the wire in the front and along the cut until you push the wire on to the protruding electrode tip.

2. Strip the end of the new wire and solder the new wire to the Coil's electrode.

After installing the new wire:
Place masking tape around the cut-out with the edge raised to allow you to flood the space with a hard setting epoxy resin.

(I used 5-Minute Epoxy. The kind that comes in a twin syringe applicator.
The epoxy is available in black)

After the epoxy cures:
Sand the filled-in space to be like the Case was before the Coil surgery.
You need the same contour on the case in order to get the mounting holes to line-up.

Both wires removed showing the cavity remaining after removal of the wires.

Single cavity showing the "Nail-end" electrode in close-up:

 

what is to stop me pulling the wire off the nail and out of the whole without all the cutting? Is it pinched or glued? I think you said 'molded'.


Great pics

Marshall

 

The Outside Diameter of the Plug Wire extending into the Coil Casing is held firmly in place by the Casing surrounding it as if the Casing was molded right around the wire.

You need to open the Casing in orger to get the new wire pulled in to the Casing.
The new wire needs to be pulled-in because the casing surrounding the wire is such a close tolerance that the new wire "Bunches-up" without be pulled in.

 

so what kind of wire are we looking at to replace the old ones with? specifically what type of core and where have you found it the local napa only has solid core wire

 

I didn't go to an Auto Parts Store.
I went to a Junk Yard!

I pulled the four longest wires I could rip-out from under the hood of a wrecked Audi.
They turned-out to be Bosch double-insulated with wound stainless steel core.
$4.00 Cash

The guy put the money right in his pocket.

 

gotcha

 

I've got a chunk of solid core wire sitting here. Standard Motor Products part number CC7N. 7mm solid core ignition wire. Available at CARQUEST.

 

Any issues with splicing the wires close to the coil instead of doing all the cutting?

 

I use the 7mm copper line supplied from Napa off of a spool. Cheap and works fine.
Splicing works but there is a consideration of how many connections there are in the system. Each connection has a slight loss across it so the best way to get full power is to eliminate the number of connections. However, don't take this as the only solution. Splices work, just don't use them for racing.

 

X750 , its not too bad as far as the work goes... i did mine in just under an hour to the point where i could ride.

i tested the thought od gread the wire and slide it in ... when i cut into the coil to see how close i got i was off center by .5mm meaning that there would be arc over to the post from the wire.... that is no good

take your time go slow and you'll be suprised how well you do

 

Resurrecting this thread is timely indeed. Was looking at a similar article on the XJCD -- I'm half tempted to pull my one wonky coil off and open it up to see whether it's the coil itself, the plug wire(s), or a bad connection.

 

Well, I pulled the offending coil, grabbed the dremel, and went to town. Thing is, though, instead of two long projections on the bottom, on my coil, there's one long and one short.

The long one has the nail, and the wire came out as advertised. The other side doesn't appear to have the nail that the wire slides onto, and looked to be hard wired...?

In any event, the coil still ohmed out at just over 80K, even with the wires removed, so that pretty much takes care of that.

 

schmuck... My coils were like yours too, unlike the pictures... I soldered my spark plug wires on and i haven't had any problems. It has improved things quite a bit!

Rick, this saved me, thanks for posting this up, pictures make all the difference!!

 

Is it possible to get the original wire out without all the cutting?

I understand the potential difficulty getting a new wire back in, but first things first... Can you get the old one out?

Burnarr

 

Rice,

i had one heck of a time getting the new ones back over the electrode with the coil cut open. i don't know that you could be certain you have good contact if you just trying to cram them in with no visual. The wire is just too flexible i even used some dielectric grease to try and help out it took a bit of work to get them all seated properly but i can now ride in the rain with no missing!! I alos dipped my coils in plasti dip 3-4 times each to seal up any tiny cracks in the housing.

 

85MaximXX,

Yeah, it sounds like a real pain to get the new wires in even with the coil excavation, but what about getting the old ones out?

Did you pull your old wires out before your cut into the coil or did you do the cutting first?

 

Thanx RickCoMatic, for the illustrations and info, I'm about to do the surgery on my coils. I had no idea that you had to cut back that far, this will save me a lot of time and frustration. I'm installing Red wires to accent the red trim I plan for the bike. . but only for aesthetic reasons. I got em from Chacal for about 8 bucks, 8mm wires solid core.

 

I am cleaning my carbs for the first time on my 1985 yamaha xj700 and think they are hitachis, how do I I.D. them, and are parts avalable for both and were? thanks

 

Anyway we can refresh the pictures on this thread?

Or is there another thread that has a similar procedure?