Carbs off 6 times

Well 6 times they have come off so far. Getting real good at pulling and installing. My throttle is hanging when I blip it. This is what i did so far
Complete cleaning
Replaced rear boots
Replaced needle seats
Replaced main and pilot jets same size
replaced 2 each jet needles
bench synced with 3/8 inch pice 3x5 just snug
replaced plugs
tore down clean petcock
replaced throttle shaft seals and fuel tube seals
Synched carbs with Carbtune II, within 1/8 inch maybe a bit more.
Used propane to check for leaks none
Checked throttle cable binding, lubed and repositioned no change
It has been most likely 10-12000 miles since valve adjustment.

Engine gets real hot with the high idle. Most likley around 3000-4000k hang idle
Adjusted floats to 17mm, float fuel level approx 3-4 below lip

Any sugestions would be apprecieated.
Keith

 

Can you or did you push down on the throttle linkage to get the idle back down or how did you get the bike to idle after it reved up like that?

 

do a "clunk" test on the slides just tobe sure

 

I noticed on mine if the idle screw is up just a bit too high it will hang like that and not idle back down. I would turn the idle down a bit and it took car of the problem.

 

Yeah, Idle adjustment screw in the middle of the carbs. Take a 10 min ride and then turn that large screw ccw till it pops down to 1000-1100

 

Did you check and/or adjust your valves before all that work?
How did you set your pilots? what color are your plugs?

 

Check for vacuum leaks, that also could make the idle act weird.

MN

 

Answers"
I checked for leaks with propane no increase in idle, when idle is normal
I did not mess with mixture screws yet
As for idle screw I will check where it is sitting, I didnt think you could adjust where it sits on the flange. The screw is hard mounted to the bar
Did a clunk test and they drop down with no hang
How do I get idle down. I either blip the throttle or when riding up and down the street leave off throtle and it slowly went back down.
Not sure what is meant by setting my pilots?

Thanks for the responses the only thing from your responses I need to check is the idle screw and the color of my plugs. with the idle hanging I am afraid to take it to far. Plus law wont like it without tags. I need to take it to DMV for inspection since it is a out of state vehicle to get my tags here in ohio.

 

MIxture screws.

 

Idle adjustment will be between no's 2 and 3 carb. Looks like a, well, adjustment knob. Clockwise will bring the idle up, counterclockwise, down. I'd try that first. If it doesn't work, I'd look into pulling the plugs to see what color they are. I had an issue with my maxim x, where I was running waaaay lean even though the bike sat at 2.5 on the mixture screws (which are little brass straight slot screws immediately behind the intake boots ON the carbs). After I pulled the plugs (oh yeah, good and white) I adjusted the mixture screws several times, and had none of the issues you are describing again.

 

You did a "complete cleaning" without removing the Pilot needles?
Assuming you haven't touched them, you screw them IN first, counting the turns, and fraction of a turn, before removing them. There's "O" rings, springs and tiny washers in there. Then blast carb cleaner thru.

Did you read "the church of the clean" or "whole nine yards" ??

You removed your butterflies from the shafts to do the seals.
If the butterflies are not re-installed and seated exactly right this could cause a hanging idle, an air leak you can't find with propane.

Compare the color of your plugs to those in some "plug read" threads.

 

Timeto Ride,
I am not sure what you are talking about when you say Pilot needles. Are you meaning mixture screws? If so I did not touch the mixture screws. They have not been moved. I did go out this afternoon and check one and it is 2 1/2 turns out from bottom.

Let me ask you this, you mentioned about putting the butterflies back in correct. Yes I marked them and put them in the way they came out. doing my bench sync I verified that they closed all the way that is after I flipped one upside down when it would not close before I instaled 3x5 card piece to open them evenly.

Other then that I am still at idle sticking. To all who responded thanks..

 

You should verify all the things you have already done, but I will list below a "general rule of thumb" to help you in the right direction. Assuming the carburetors are stock (no jet kit), then it has to be something with the rebuild.

Typical Lean Conditions:

- Poor acceleration; the engine feels flat.

- The engine won't respond when the throttle is snapped open, but it picks up speed as the throttle is closed. (A too-large main jet also mimics this symptom.)

- The engine runs hot, knocks, pings and overheats.

- The engine surges or hunts when cruising at part-throttle.

- Popping or spitting through the carb occurs when the throttle is opened. Or popping and spitting occurs through the pipe on deceleration with a closed throttle.

- The engine runs better in warm weather, worse in cool.

- Performance gets worse when the air filter is removed.


Typical Rich Conditions

- Engine acceleration is flat and uneven and loses that "crisp" feel.

- The engine "eight-strokes" as it loads up and skips combustion cycles.

- The engine's idle is rough or lumpy, and the engine won't return to idle without "blipping" the throttle.

- The throttle needs to be open continuously to maintain acceleration.

- Black, sooty plugs, a sooty exhaust pipe and black smoke from the tailpipe that stinks of unburned fuel.

- Poor fuel economy.

- The engine works better when cold. Performance falls off as it warms up or the ambient temperature rises.

- Engine performance improves when the air cleaner is removed.

The list above is a list from Mark Zimmerman

 

Whaler, Thanks for response. Sitting here thinking I replaced the shaft seals all except? On the #1 and 4 carbs outside with C clips there are plastic washers with a lip which goes into the carbs. There was no oring on either 1 or 4 under the plastic washer and c clip. I tried to put oring in there but it would not fit. Should there be orings under this plastic washer fit into the carbs?

 

OK Nighthawk, you will get accurate info from the guys here once you:
1-- Post up your compression test results.
2-- Post up your valve clearances.
3-- Post up your plug pics, or describe them.
4-- List every non-stock modificaion.
5-- list everything you tweaked.

And yes, I have a V-Star 1100, aren't they cool? absolutely no problems !!
Bear with us, as we suffer from ADD !!

 

Time to Ride, I will get the info you posted. Never did a valve adjustment or check. I can tear down a jet engine and put it back togeather but can't figure out how a little motorcycle engine is kicking my butt.

As for the Vstar I love the thing, did about everything I can without tearing into the engine. If it wasnt for this seca being my first ever bike it would have been gone a long time ago. Plus the wife is going nuts with what I spent to put it bac on the road.

 

Well you got me beat Nighthawk, I only had mine off 4 times

 

Just a thought...

Have you verified all of your choke plungers are fully seated when the choke is off?

 

is there a spring for every butterfly? I am thinking one has slipped out of position and not providing the required tension letting air by causing the idle up

 

Hey Whaler that list is awesome. You should have your own post that we can add to favorites that have that Lean/Rich Post along with way to resolve those issues. That'd be a sweet handy referance and all that info would be in one place
-SLkid