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Is there a trick to getting the carbs back on the bike?

Discussion in 'Hangout Lounge' started by Gearhead61, Feb 5, 2011.

  1. Gearhead61

    Gearhead61 Member

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    I've got an 82 XJ 650 and I'm trying to get the carbs installed back on the bike. I got the carbs into the engine-side rubber hoses without too much difficulty, but getting the airbox-side hoses onto the carbs has proved to be a much more daunting task. I've got the airbox unbolted, but it still doesn't move very much. It barely reaches the carbs. The hoses also don't seem to want to fit around the carb body very well. I've actually managed to crack the damn airbox trying to push these hoses onto the carb body. Does anyone have some advice or a trick to get this thing back together? Thanks!
     
  2. benchpress

    benchpress New Member

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    Maybe loosen the engine mounts on the frame to give yourself some play. Not sure itf its possible but might be worth a try.
     
  3. Gearhead61

    Gearhead61 Member

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    It seems kind of silly that it would be this much work to put the airbox back on. Thank you for the idea though, I may go tinker with that for a bit. I'd really like to just put pod filters on there and call it done, but from what I've read they seem to be more trouble than they are worth.
     
  4. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Don't loosen the motor mounts.
    Don't have the airbox loose, that makes it harder.
    It is a frustrating job, softening the boots in warm water helps & you have to get your hand in the airbox (take your watch off, don't do what Rick did, he might still be there)
     
  5. Gearhead61

    Gearhead61 Member

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    Thanks Wizard. I actually tried both bolting back the airbox and boiling the hoses. I got about halfway and realized i lost some hose clamps, so I'm going to get some more of those and get back on it tomorrow.

    On a bit lower note, I managed to completely break out the part where the left-side carb's hose enters the airbox. Anyone know how much trouble this could cause? It's maybe 1/8" gap on one side of the hose where it enters the airbox.
     
  6. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Once you have it all back together & solid, you could fill the crack / gap with RTV or silcone, but getting air in that side of the carbs, while not desirable is not critical.
     
  7. bobberaha

    bobberaha Member

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    God I love my pod filters carbs on and off in 10 minutes.
     
  8. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    You don't get a lot of cleaning done in ten minutes.
     
  9. bobberaha

    bobberaha Member

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    Sorry 5 minutes to take them off and 4 hours cleaning and then 5 minutes to put them back on.
     
  10. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    Well, for what it's worth.........putting them back in IS a challenge especially for the first time doing that. I spent several hours over the course of a couple days to put the rack back in the first time. Now, I can put them back in relatively easily but its only due to lots of practice. (My claim to fame is going from having the rack in my hands away from the bike to having the bike fired up in under 8 minutes. It happened at a carb clinic, witnesses present, and will probably never happen again. It just went incredibly smooth and with a lot of dumb luck).

    Anyway, I'd recommend a couple things:

    A length of good hardwood to act as a lever/pry/stabilizer
    A hot air gun to soften the boots a bit more

    run a couple drops of oil around the lip/bump of the carb to head boots to help carbs slide in and seat easier. Make sure the ring clamps are plenty loose. Once they are in, do the carb to airbox boots this way: do the inside two first. Use a radiator hose tool, or a right-angle pick to carefully ease the boots onto the carbs. Make sure that the boots are seated properly in the airbox hole...the box should sit in the grooves around the boots.Tighten the clamps and make sure that the airbox is forward and that the clamps are all the way onto the landing of the carb intake, otherwise, it's gonna squeeze and slide right back off. also, make sure the little tab on the boot is between the two tabs above the airbox hole. As said in a previous post, keep one hand inside the airbox to help push/guide. DON'T LET YOURSELF GET FRUSTRATED!!!!!! Keep a cool head and be methodical.
    We've all been there, we know how you feel. After you get it back on, you'll know how WE feel. :) A couple more times, and you'll be writing this post tosomeone else who comes along with the same question. It's ok, we're here to help, and this is one of the issues that is daunting the first few times. Then you get used to it.

    Welcome aboard!
     
  11. Gearhead61

    Gearhead61 Member

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    The RTV is a good idea. Thanks for the advice everyone! I'm going to go at it again tomorrow once the sun comes out and it gets warmer again. Hopefully I'll have some good news for y'all tomorrow!
     
  12. MiCarl

    MiCarl Active Member

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    They're a lot easier to do if the rubbers are new. Those old ones aren't as flexible as they should be.
     
  13. Gearhead61

    Gearhead61 Member

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    Boy isn't that the truth. I managed to get them all to fit... well close enough for government work anyways. At this point I'd be perfectly willing to take a loss in power and go with pod filters just so I wouldn't ever have to deal with that damned airbox again. I'm worried about getting it running properly though. I'm going to get it running first and worry about that later. I'll just cross my fingers that the carbs don't need any more work.
     
  14. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    With a Hardwood Hammer Handle to use as a Lever and Pry Bar, ...
    and this Kit:

    http://www.electricaladvantage.net/pick ... cekit.aspx

    to Help with the Rubber Boots ... you're way better-of taking an extra hour fooling-around with the carbs than saying you "Take a loss of power"

    You don't "Lose power"

    You lose "Fine Tuning"!!
     
  15. jmemmer

    jmemmer Member

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    Sorry I missed this. I just put mine back together and had some issues too. Through some trial and error This is what I figured out.

    1. clamp the boots to the carbs on the intake side.
    2. make sure the throttle cable is out of the way.
    3. slide the carbs in from the right side with the intake side pointed down at a about a 45 degree angle.
    4. shove the carbs in to the boots that are already on the motor.
    5. with the intake boots lined up close to the holes in the air box take a hair dryer and heat up all the boots so they're soft.
    6. squeeze the boots in place in the holes in the air box.
     
  16. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    If you pull the airbox boots, clean them thoroughly with Berryman's or something similar and then boil them, yes BOIL them, they'll stay flexible for a week afterwards. (3-5 minutes will do it.)

    Unfortunately, they tend to shrink after 25+ years; the easiest way to deal with them is to replace them with new ones.
     
  17. Gearhead61

    Gearhead61 Member

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    This is all great advice. I did find that boiling them helped a lot. I'll have to look around and see if they can be replaced for cheap. Unfortunately I managed to crack the airbox a little bit also pushing and tugging on the damned things... Maybe I can find a new one of those too... Though I've read you have to remove the engine to get the airbox in!?

    BTW that amount of information on here is incredible! I appreciate everyone's help so much! Thanks!
     
  18. Malkav

    Malkav New Member

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    I just rolled the airbox boots back on themselves, squeezed them in and pushed them on the carb. As you unroll it just push it in the airbox.
     
  19. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    If its just craked, ... the airbox can be repaired with a Plastic Welding Stick and a Propane Torch or an Industrial Heat Gun.

    Visit an AutoBody Supply Company.

    They might have a KIT you can RENT to use with Plastic Repair Sticks you BUY.
     

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