Advice please!

Hi gang! Let me start by introducing myself. I live in Dallas, TX and over the last year year or so got a hankering for a new project as I was getting bored building guns and doing some of the other things that have interested me for the last little while....

I initially was looking for an XS but came upon my XJ650 and decided to go for it...here she is after getting her home



My helper was a motorcycle mechanic and was excited to help me get her running/driving great again...(for about a day and then he bailed out and lost interest, go figure!) now I am on my own. I have past experience as a rider but it's been awhile. I have very little experience as a mechanic so things like the front brake took me a awhile to get through. Thanks to this forum I figured out my bleeding problem and now have a nice front brake (going to look at the rear brake here shortly)

Now on to my current problem....

I was taking it up to get inspected this morning and damn is it hot!

Anywho, once there I realized I had forgotten my proof of insurance so rode home to get it (about 4 miles away)...well, that "ride" took almost 40 minutes! It had been riding great until I turned into the place when it stalled out.

The bike kept stalling/bogging out and was really erratic with shifting on the "ride" home.

I called my Father in law and he said to check the clutch oil bath....hmmmm? I looked in my service manual and from what I am seeing it appears as though engine oil/clutch oil are the same....correct?

Next I checked oil level (which was already done) and it looks fine but the bike is WAY hot even after sitting for quite some time. From reading another thread here I decided to check the oil scent and voila! It reeks like gas.

Right now I am waiting for it to cool down enough so I can bleed a little oil out(without starting a fire) and look at it ...

I am guessing it may be a petcock issue combined with low oil?

TIA for any and all help!

 

Correct. That being the case, something to make note of: if you don't plan on using a dedicated motorcycle oil (with a JASO MA rating on the bottle) then make sure you get one that does NOT have "energy conserving" additives.

One time I looked at the sight window for the oil on my 750 when it was having some trouble. Couldn't see any, thought it was low. Turned out the crankcase was filled with gas.

Petcock and/or carbs -- one or more of the needle valves aren't closing, and allowing the crankcase to flood. If you haven't gone through your carbs, this might be a good time to do just that. This file on setting your fuel levels might provide some insight.

That said, how difficult is it to build a Vulcan Cannon? :mrgreen:

 

To try to give you as succinct an answer as possible:

-You are correct, the engine/clutch/transmission share the sump, which is why using the proper oil is so important. By "proper" I mean motorcycle-specific oil, NOT "car" oil. Castrol 4T is widely available, and 20W50 is OK especially in the heat.

-The "gas in the oil" syndrome requires a petcock that's not stopping fuel flow when it should AND one or more carb floats also not shutting off flow when they should. It's a 2-sided sword.

You're probably going to need to go through the carbs; it's rare to find an old XJ that doesn't need carb work unless it was just done.

Before doing that, get the valve clearances in spec, or you won't be able to get the carbs in sync once you do get them serviced.

Before ALL else, CHECK THOSE REAR BRAKE SHOES!!!

 

You pretty much can't any more. Automotive oil spec is now up to somethng like API Service SL or SM; JASO MA (the "motorcycle" spec) rated oil only meets API Service SG.

Virtually ALL automotive oil is no longer compatible with our bikes; even good old Castrol GTX. They ALL have such additives, the new specs require them.

 

Hrm. I'll have to swing by Wally-Mart to see what they have in name brand stuff, but I seem to recall their store brand stuff has the additives in 10w30, but not in 10w40. (shrug)

 

They quit "trumpeting" about additives so much now that everything has them.

Just check the API Service rating. Like I said, JASO-MA only meets API Service SG. Anything with an API Service above SG is something you need to avoid.

 

Thanks so much for the leads guys!

Looks like I have quite a bit of reading and work that lie ahead of me...dang, I was really wanting to get to riding but 'cest le vie! ;-)

 

Honestly? Any time you take over a bike this old, no matter what it looks like, you'll have some work ahead of you.

Unless you've bought it from an enthusast who already did everything necessary for a proper "recommissioning" then plan on spending some time and money to put it into safe, reliable rideable condition. I've done a couple of XJs so far; one took 8~9 months; the other one right at a year.

Here's a basic list to get you started:

- check tires, condition, and date codes.

- inspect wheel rims for damage or excessive runout.

- check front brake pads.

- inspect disc brake calipers for damage, wear (thickness), or excessive warpage/runout.

- VISUALLY check rear brake shoes for wear/delamination; adjust rear brake pedal linkage. This is very important. Delamination is common, the only way to detect it is to SEE it. xjbikes.com/Forums/vie...15874.html

- check and adjust if needed operation of front and rear brake light switches.

- replace rubber brake hoses (check the mfg date stamped in them).

- unless known to be otherwise, plan on rebuilding the brake master cylinder and caliper(s).

- check and clean/replace the air filter element.

- change all fluids: fork oil, engine oil, final drive oil, and brake fluid.

- check and repair any engine or drivetrain/suspension fluid leaks.

NOTE: almost any original oil seal or engine case gasket will need to be replaced when its cover is removed for the first time.

- check and adjust/lubricate/replace steering head bearings.

- check and adjust/lubricate/control cables and speedometer and tachometer (if applicable) drive cables..

- check and adjust/replace rear shock absorbers.

- electrical system inspection, replace fusebox and most probably alternator brushes.

- check battery condition; replenish fluid (distilled water only!).

- clean the battery terminals.

- check all lights for proper operation and brightness (headlight, tail/brake light, turn signals, dash illumination).

- check horns for proper operation and loudness.

- check stator resistance.

- check rotor resistance.

- check battery.

- check coil primary, secondary, plug caps resistance.

- check engine cylinder compression; record your findings.

- check and adjust camchain tensioner. (If manual type.)

- check and adjust valve clearances; record your findings.

- drain carbs, check for foreign matter in bowls, install in-line fuel filter.

- check function/operation of fuel petcock; correct any leaks and/or rebuild the petcock if indicated.

Best practice is to get a service manual, and go through the "maintenance" section leaving nothing out.

Hope this helps.

 

If you're going to Wally World, mine has Rotella oil. It's GOOD for these bikes...

skillet
BTW and it's cheap!!!

 

Definitely a help bigfitz52!

The whole front brake system has been rebuilt as well as replacing the brake line, flashers are fixed and functional...still have a long way to go but hey, I wanted a project right ? ;-)

 

Okay so one thing I am not clear on..

If the carbs are leaking into the crankcase, does that mean my rings are bad also?

 

Check those rear brake shoes first thing! Gotta pull it apart to inspect them; read this whole thread and see just how common a failure it is: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=15874.html

Yep, it's a lot of work if you want to do it right. But it's worth it, trust me.

 

Yeah it's gonna sit until I get new shoes in.

Gotta start of list of what I am going to need so I can do one order from Chacal.

 

your rings are prob fine unless you notice a bit of smoke blowing out the exhaust. its it most likely your carbs. just read the how to on here and go thru them fully! split the rack clean every passage you can find and if you dont want to be back in there any time soon replace any rubber bits like your throttle shaft seals and fuel o rings.

 

U got it rustysavage!

Chacal emailed a good bit of info and parts/prices I will probably need so that alone is going to be a big help.

Going to check valve clearance first, then read, read, read, & read on the carb rebuilding technique/procedure...

Then I'll actually get to CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN and most likely clean and clean again

One of my main strengths is the ability to be completely anal about making sure parts are clean. Hopefully I am anal enough the first go-round ;-)

Don't worry 'fitz, I'm gonna hit that rear brake before I ride!

 

Wow! I am sick to my stomach after reading through the parts list for these carbs. This carb rebuild could run well over $1500...? That's just nuts.

How likely is it going to be that I'd need to replace the diphrams etc? Manifold boots are over $200..?

The odometer reads 7721...

Man I may really have made a huge mistake buying this thing.

 

Don't worry, ouchie, if the diaphrams are shot there are some cheap replacements, the boots can be repaired at next to no cost.
Now run things by us a bit at a time.

 

okay will do!

hoping this is gonna run less than $200 in parts

 

Diaphragms rarely need replacing; and if they were to, there is a new aftermarket source for them at VERY reasonable prices.

The key is to clean, disassemble and inspect; then replace those parts that NEED to be replaced.

VERY generally speaking, here in the USA, you're looking at probably between $400~$800 for everything required to do a proper "recommissioning." Some things will simply have to be replaced; others can be refurbished, renewed, restored or rebuilt.

Read the first five or six links under "Cool Hand Luke" in here: http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=27544.html

You probably won't get away for only $200, sorry. Doing the brakes properly is gonna eat that right up.

 

Look on the bright side ouchie, after it's all done you'll be set for quite a few years.