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1981 Xj550h Alternator Rotor Removal

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Adam Walker, May 6, 2015.

  1. Adam Walker

    Adam Walker Member

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    Howdy.

    tearing down and rebuilding my 1981 xj550h. Going by Clymer manual. I've gotten down to a crankcase on my workbench, and am stuck at rotor removal. I got the flywheel/rotor puller single bolt like it shows in the manual, but it has me using a wrench and a rubber mallet. Can't seem to get the dang thing to work right. Crankshaft turns as I tighten. attempted putting wrench on the left side of the crankshaft (timing plate side) as i tighten the puller bolt, but felt like I may be exerting too much pressure, so I stopped, hit the web, and found this fine website which I will probably be frequenting as i go on with this project (my first). I've watched plenty of youtube videos, and read plenty of other threads in other forums and can't seem to find my answer, so, maybe someone here in the xj family might be better suited to help me in my time of need.

    my first question is, am I using the right tool, and if not, which tool should I use

    my second question is, with engine on my workbench, and top end/pistons/ clutch/shifter/ removed, what is the best way to keep the crankshaft from turning while I remove rotor

    my third question is, wouldn't it make more sense to remove the rotor before removing the shift mechanism so as to use the bike itself in gear to hold the crankshaft steady?

    my fourth question, if anyone has rebuilt a 1981 xj550h from the clymer manual, did anything else come up that could be done a better way than explained in the manual.

    Now that my questions are out of the way, a statement, I am in love....................... with motorcycles
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    You have the correct tool. The rotor is a taper fit, and taper fits can be difficult to break. Using a wrench on the timing plate to keep the crank from rotating is fine. Uou may find using a cheater bar on the wrench will help you hold the crank still while you tighten the rotor removal tool. Once the tool is tight you will hit the tool with the mallet (I prefer using a block of hardwood and a 5 pound engineer's hammer, or a deadblow hammer) to break the rotor free from the tapered shaft. Do not hit the rotor.

    You do not have to tighten the removal tool a huge amount. you just want to put pressure on the rotor and the end of the shaft so it will break free when you hit the rool with the mallet. Sometimes the rotor will move out a little, and you have to tighten the tool up again so you can get the rotor to finally release.
     
  3. Adam Walker

    Adam Walker Member

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    thanks for the help. Ended up using the impact wrench and muscling that thing off.. 34 years and set in stone it felt like.. Excalibur rotor.
     
  4. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    A good taper fit will feel the same way even if its only been assembled for a day. Check your threads for damage since you used an impact.
     
  5. Will VP

    Will VP New Member

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    Stupid question, but are they reverse threads on the rotor bolt? Thank you in advance.
     
  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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