1982 XJ750J Maxim -HELP - No Spark at All

Bought a new battery from Batterstuff about a year ago.....
Shipped dry with bottle of acid.....last week I filled it and charged at a 2 amp rate..... however after charging up to 13.5 volts, the volts seem to drop back to about 10.3 volts after removing charger

Anyway, I hooked up the new battery to the bike, turn on ignition & run switch & then nothing...not even a single crank....

So I removed the the battery all together, hooked up jumper cables directly to my bike's negative ground lead & positive lead wire.....

Result: bike cranked fine but no spark at all to any of the four cylinders.....I am getting 12 volts to the lead wires going into the coils....

I removed my ignition coils to perform a primary & secondary resistance test.... with spark plug caps removed.......they passed

Primary 2.7 ohms - both coils - baseline is 2.5 ohms + or - 15%
Secondary 12.1k & 12.5k - baseline is 11k + or - 15%

However, is there a test for the spark plug caps themselves ????

I can't get any reading of resistance or continuity from them ??? What is with that.....

Is it that I may need a new TCI ignitor ( 5G2-10 ) Type TID14-06 ?????

Pickup coil ???? How can I test ???

Can I damage any electrical components by directly hooking up car battery ( motorcycle battery removed ) and cranking the bike.....she cranks real strong when doing this but no spark.....

Compression check 125 psi across all cylinders....

This no spark condition has me pissed off......

Gas tank is removed with no fuel in bowls.....when dry firing to test for spark.....

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.....

Thanks in advance...

5ofakind

 

kill switch?
a car battery won't hurt a bike.
charge your new battery for 4 or 5 hours, let it set a hour or so, if it says 10 volts you have a shorted cell and it's shot

 

I may be mistaken, but I thought I read somewhere before that wet-cell batteries require less than 1 amp to avoid overcharging. Maybe you fried the battery.

 

Polock,

With the kill switch in the "on" position, the bike cranked strong...but just with no spark to all 4 plugs.......are you saying it could still be the "kill" switch....???

Midnight,
2 amp charging to a moto battery should not kill the battery.....never heard that before.


Bigfitz,

Any suggestions are welcomed.

 

The bike won't "light up" the electrical system fully without a battery actually in the circuit; it would depend on how you hook up the car battery.

But Polock is right; if the battery is putting out 10V it's cooked.

The batteries for our bikes shouldn't be charged at any more than 1.0AH; and a 0.75AH charger is better yet. You can sure as heck cook one on a 2A charger; I learned that one the hard way myself.

 

Bigfitz,

The motorcycle battery was removed......car battery hooked up directly with jumper cables to motorcycle negative ground lead & positive lead wire......the bike cranked solid......all fuses had power......all lights come on.....( computerized LCD monitor lit up......headlights came on.....aux light came on.......

Just no frickin spark to any plug......

I will get another brand new battery if I have to.....what battery tender do you suggest ????

I have a Sears battery charger 2A & 10A charging capability.......but obviously that didn't work well

 

I too have a Sears 2A charger, which is what I fried a battery with.

I use and can highly recommend the Deltran Battery Tender Jr: http://batterytender.com/products/autom ... 0-75a.html

(Don't buy it mfg. direct they're for sale all over for cheaper)

 

He can't by it from the mfg. it says so in the ad. They sell them at cycle gear there's one not to far from you.
Or there's always Walmart.
http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/Battery-Te ... ype=search

 

Bigfitz,

Thanks... I will get one......

Now...getting beyond the battery issue......

what may be creating the 'no spark" issue......

Coils passed the primary & secondary resistance test...

However, is there a test on the caps......continuity or resistance test ? just curious....because I am getting no reading either way out of any of them....

Pickup Coil bad ?????

TCI ignitor Unit bad.....?????

Worst case scenario.......I will replace all 3.....if I have to.....Ouch....along with another new battery & battery tender.....

Buying used ignition coils, pickup coil & ignition coils off ebay can be hit or miss......

Maybe I will put my feelers out here in the Buy Forum .......

Any suggestions ???

 

If you want a battery for your bike. IF yours is fried send me a pm. I got a new one cause I thought the old one was dead. It was the starter. So I've got a extra battery that has been on a charger for the last two weeks. It starts my bike... Just don't have a use for it now.

For free you pick it up. It's two yrs old. I'm in Clairemont.

Jim

 

XJrider92117,

Check your PM

 

I have an idea.....just need a taker who has an 1982 XJ750J Maxim.....

I have a questionable Ignitor box.....TID14-06 5G2-10......I can send it to someone who can plug it into their known good running bike....to see if it fires off & runs their bike....that way at least my Ignitor can be tested......

Any takers.....??? I will pay shipping & insurance on the return......

 

I have an 83 XJ750K I believe that the TCI's are the same but not 100% sure.

I could test it if you like. I believe I even have an extra TCI in the garage I will look when I get home from work.

 

I don't believe testing my ignitor on your good running bike should cause any harm.......the only thing that I see is that it won't start if it is bad.....

Let me know if your TCI matches 5G2-10......much appreciated.

 

It shouldn't. I road-tested a whole bunch of 550 TCI units recently; and the bad one I found only made the bike run crappy, it didn't hurt anything. Once I installed a good one, everything was fine again. All it cost me was a precautionary set of spark plugs.

***A note on testing TCI units: Just because the TCI will start the bike and it will idle, etc., it doesn't mean it's not the cause of the issue.***

The bad one I ran across only started to "fall apart" only after it got warmed up, maybe 15 miles or so. So if you're going to test his TCI for him, put it in and then do a good 20 or 30 miles and make sure it's fine. If your bike begins to act up, pull over and put yours back in. (You'll be carrying it and a phillips screwdriver for just that contingency.)

 

Bigfitz,

I will test the pickup coils on my bike by energizing the system & then hand rotating the reluctor past each pickup coil & will look for 650 ohms on a analog multimeter....Does that sound right ???

And again thanks for the advice on the TCI test to whoever the taker is......I will pay for someone's time & trouble.....

 

NO! Do NOT power up the system!!

Just test the resistance between the p/u coil lead wire (orange or grey) and ground (or the common black ground wire coming off the p/u coils).

 

did you ever look at the side stand relay?

 

chacal,

I must have read your instructions incorrectly then.....

Polock,

May I should try by just unplugging it....Right ???

 

Chacal,


You mention energize in the below test: is the ignition Switch on or off ???

What do you mean by energize then ???




IGNITION PICK-UP COILS:

One of the nice things about the stock XJ electrical systems is the transistorized (maintenance free) ignition systems.......no points to set or timing to adjust (except on 1986 XJ700-X models). All of those dreadful chores are handled for you, automatically, via the IGNITION PICK-UP COILS SYSTEM, and further down the line, via the TCI CONTROL MODULE. These components are generally very reliable, almost to the point of being bulletproof, and as mentioned, are truly "plug-and-play" devices that need no periodic maintenance once installed. However, they are quite susceptible to damage via electrical shorts or voltage surges (i.e. if you jumper the battery incorrectly, etc.).

Checking pick-up coils: the resistance across each pair of lead wires (at the TCI) should be as follows. NOTE: if both coils are out of specifications, suspect a pinched or shorted black ground wire, which is a shared ground for both of the pick-up coils on most models. It is very unlikely (although not impossible, especially in a case of improper jump-starting, etc.) that BOTH pick-up coils would expire at the same time!

A simple test to see if the coils are working, at all is to place a voltmeter (preferably an analog unit) across the Grey or the Orange wire to the Black wire. Energize the system and watch for voltage pulses as you rotate the reluctor past the pickup. This can be done by hand or with the starter.......we'd recommend using the hand method so that the pulses are slow enough to see. These "pulses" are what the TCI "black box" counts and interprets when "deciding" when to fire the ignition coils.

NOTE: the orange lead wire is the trigger wire for the #1/#4 ignition coils, while the grey lead wire is the trigger for the #2/#3 ignition coils.


120 ohms +/- 10% for all XJ650 Turbo models, XJ700 all models and XJ750-X models, XJ900RK, RL, N/FN, and F models, and XJ1100 models.

650 ohms +/- 20% for all XJ550 models, 1982-84 XJ650 Maxim, 1982 XJ650RJC Seca (Canadian, yics-engine), and all XJ750 models.

700 ohms +/- 20% for all 1980-81 XJ650 models and 1982 XJ650RJ (non-yics engine) models.