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650 maxim refuses to cold start

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by benny_bastard, Sep 13, 2008.

  1. benny_bastard

    benny_bastard Member

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    once the temperature reaches above sixty, there's no problems. however, every time i try to turn over the engine in the morning it refuses to cooperate. the battery seems good and strong, but it just cranks and cranks and the engine won't even sputter. i've been reading posts about the enrichment circuits needing to be cleaned, so i thought i'd just give the carbs a good overhaul while i'm at it. any other suggestions to look for while my bike is taken apart?

    with the mornings getting progressively colder each day, i'd like to get my daily commuter running like a song again!
     
  2. xj650ss

    xj650ss Member

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    check how your starting it as well even after cleaning the carbs (multiple times!) my xj650 maxim 82 still wouldn't start cold without starter fluid turns out if i turn the choke on only half and turn it over without any throttle it fires right up then i can adjust the choke and give it throttle to keep it going but if i give it any gas before it's running I am taking my car that morning! if you check my posts one of them has great instructions left from someone on how to clean the starting jets hope this helps you as it sure helped me
     
  3. benny_bastard

    benny_bastard Member

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    yeah, if mine doesn't start first thing (which rarely happens as of late) then it looks like i'm stuck waiting for the sun to warm things up! it's a major bummer on those mornings when i have to make it to work before seven, though! :wink: i'll check out your posts on the starting jets, though, while i'm elbow deep in cleaner!

    i suppose this is just my bikes way of teaching me not to procrastinate when it comes to maintenance. i was hoping for a rainy day to clean my carbs...
     
  4. xj650ss

    xj650ss Member

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    next time it's cold try the half choke thing like i said, i got this method from another 650 maxim guy and it seems like alot of guys do the same thing so it may just be how it's done with these bikes as they get older, it didn't matter for me how or how many times i took my carbs apart i had the same problem and now i haven't used starting fluid since i tried this! with fuel at $1.50 per liter (around $6 a gallon) where i am right now i prefer not to have extra expenses! how much is premium fuel where you are?
     
  5. benny_bastard

    benny_bastard Member

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    premium is running me about four bucks a gallon nowadays, much lower than it's been for quite a while! i'll definitely try the half choke thing in the morning and try to get her going, though! glad to hear i'm not the only one out there with this problem. i'm planning on doing a tear down of the carbs soon though, as i'm sure they need it regardless, and with the current economy here in the u.s. of a. i have ample spare time from my construction career to tinker!
     
  6. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Improvise, Adapt, Fabricate.
    Here's how to make a frozen XJ-Bike start.

    Stop-offf at your local Auto Parts Store or even a good Hardware Store and get a few feet of Rubber Windshield Washer Hose.

    Pull the Seat of that Cold-Blooded Pig and let some of that Washer Hose down into the Airbox Fresh Air Intake Port.
    Duct Tape the Hose to the top of the Airbox.
    Run the other end of the Hose back along the Frame to the Seat Lock or to where you can access it without pulling covers or lifting the Seat.

    Secure the Hose to the Frame with a couple of wraps of Duct Tape and don't pinch or kink it.

    Here we go.
    It's cold out. You need the Bike to start.
    You're rigged for it.

    Just put the Plastic Tube of your Starting Fluid in the Washer Hose.
    Look at all those light bulbs coming-on over the heads of the Members of our wonderful XJ-Community.

    Could it be this simple?
    Yep!
    Simple as that.
    No fooling around with the seat.
    No trying to get the Starting Fluid in there without moving the seat.
    (Yes! I know you've done it. Don't lie. You're guilty! All of you!)

    Varoom. You're started!

    "Say, Goodnight Gracie"
    "Goodnight, Gracie!"
     
    Stephen Downey likes this.
  7. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    Perhaps it's an old wives tale, but we used to think if you use starter fluid the engine gets addicted to it.
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    No.
    It's not an old wives tale.
    It's true.

    When you're asleep, at night, the engine sneaks-out and goes to a street corner in a bad neighborhood and makes a buy just to get more!
    Worst case is when they get so hooked on it they won't start mid-afternoon in July; just for a shot of Starting Fluid!
    They have to go to rehab.
    It get's out and has go to meetings with other engines that got hooked on ether and some on Nitrous oxide.
    Terrible; just awful.
    It can get so bad you have to have an intervention where all its friends come-over and show it how they start without needing a fix to get going.
     
    Stephen Downey likes this.
  9. wizard

    wizard Active Member

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    That's better, Rick, you're getting your sense of humor back, I thought you had had a S.O.H. lobotomy for a while. :D
     
  10. benny_bastard

    benny_bastard Member

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    i am completely amazed at the simple, ingenious fixes that i've found at this place! thanks rick for the tip! keep your ears perked, though, as i'm pulling the carbs for cleaning today anyway. i know for a fact that they could use it, and it's riding like they need to get syncronized anyway.

    my baptism into the xj world, i'm so excited!
     
  11. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Do a thorough job.
    Fuel Bowl Starter Jets and Siphon Tube.
    Pull Emulsion Tube; Clean everything.
    Pilot Jet and Air Passages; Flush.

    The cleaner you get the whole works; the better you'll get it tuned, after.
     
  12. Gamuru

    Gamuru Guest

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    Rick, you are too funny!

    To those needing starter fluid, buy the stuff with cylinder lube in it. It will prolong the addiction. Won't prevent it... just prolongs it.

    And, if I may, here's a link to making sure the starter enrichment circuit is cleaned properly.
     
  13. benny_bastard

    benny_bastard Member

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    thanks gamuru for the link! i've seen that post before and studied it well, it's gonna come in handy in about ten minutes once i dive in. i've got the carbs pulled and sitting in my tupperware bin waiting to be cleaned...more like they're begging now actually!

    on a side note, however, any suggestions on where to get sync tools? i'll be needing some soon once i get the carbs clean enough to eat off
     
  14. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    Carb tools!:


    FUEL SYSTEM TOOLS:


    THE MOST IMPORTANT TOOLS IN YOUR TOOLBOX:

    xx1) Fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE. Yeah, it's smelly and makes a slippery mess on your fingers, but this stuff is a life-saver for any true wrencher, because it prevents problems down the road. Use it on any metal fastener that does not require a "loctite" thread-locker material to be used. This means on just about every fastener that is carb, engine case, or suspension-related! (except for carb upper and lower rack-mount screws and butterfly valve screws, which do require the use of a thread-lock fluid). If you think that it might, sometime, in the future, need to come off: use anti-seize compound!


    HCP1264 fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based formula in a 1-ounce squeeze tube, for smaller jobs.
    $ 2.95

    HCP1265 fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based formula in a 4-ounce tub with a brush-lid, for larger jobs.
    $ 5.95

    HCP9784 fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard grade aluminum-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $ 9.95


    HCP9763 fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, standard-grade copper-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $ 9.95


    HCP9764 fastener ANTI-SEIZE PASTE, premium-grade nickel-based formula in an 8-ounce tub with a brush-lid, a lifetime supply for your motorcycle!
    $ 17.95


    xx2) The next most important tool: fastener THREAD LOCKER FLUIDS. Use on any fastener that you don't normally ever remove, to make sure that it stays that way. Comes in a variety of formulas, each one designed for a specific use as explained below.

    HCP1266 Low Strength THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6-ounce squeeze tube. This is a semi-permanent formula that provides moderate vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for upper and lower carb rack mount screws and the butterfly valve-to-throttle shaft retaining screws. A little bit goes a long way.......
    $ 5.95

    HCP1267 Semi-Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6-ounce squeeze tube. This is semi-permanent formula that provides good vibration-loosening resistance, while still allowing for easy disassembly of the fastener with hand tools. This formula is recommended for use with 6-20mm fasteners.
    $ 5.95

    HCP1268 Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6-ounce squeeze tube. This is a high-strength formula that provides superior vibration-loosening resistance, and requires the use of heat or special tools to break loose the fastener for disassembly.
    $ 5.95

    HCP1269 Permanent THREAD LOCKER FLUID, 6-ounce squeeze tube. This is both a high-strength AND high-heat formula that provides superior vibration-loosening resistance, and requires the use of heat or special tools to break loose the fastener for disassembly.
    $ 6.95


    b4) Aftermarket 1/2 ounce tub of pure SILICONE GREASE----this is the proper product to use when installing any rubber-based o-ring or seal. Petroleum-based grease will attack rubber, resulting in the deterioration and early failure of the rubber compound. Silicone doesn't affect rubber, provides good seal lubrication, can also be used as a "glue" to hold seals in place during installation, and to aid in the re-assembly of components. Use on throttle shaft o-rings or v-seals, fuel connector pipe o-rings, petcock o-rings and seals, fork tube seals and o-rings, and piston diaphram assembly. 1/2 oz tub goes a long way, because just like Brylcreem, "just a little dab will do ya'!"

    HCP1714 o-ring installation pure SILICONE GREASE:
    $ 6.95



    bb3) HCP8540 Aftermarket carb diaphram rubber RnR FLUID. Dissolved and chlorinated paraffin wax is the best (and perhaps the only) way to safely bring some life back into stiff, worn rubber material... such as that found in those all-important carb piston diaphrams. Years of hard life inside of your carb take their toll, and whenever your carb is apart for service, and generous application of this product will help to clean, maintain, and restore the flexibility, while prolonging their usable service life. 10cc dripper bottle contains enough fluid to do about eight diaphrams. Simple to use, spread on, wait a few seconds, wipe off, repeat and you're done!
    $ 9.95



    Carb Tuning Tools:


    v) IDLE MIXTURE SCREW TOOL is sized and designed for the proper removal and adjustment of the idle mixture screw, preventing the destruction of the fragile straight slot head on these screws. An exact-fit blade is recessed up into a shrouded cover that sits down over the screw, completely and properly capturing the screw head slot....this design not only eliminates stripping out the idle mixture screw slot, but also allows for very fine adjustment of the screw when fine-tuning the carbs (when using a colortune plug, etc.). Knurled top handle provides for a positive grip and 1/4-turn increments are marked for a visual indication of turns. A very neat little tool and it'll last a lifetime or two. Fits: XJ550 all, XJ650 all including Turbo, XJ700 all, XJ750 all, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 carbs.

    HCP254 Idle Mixture Screw REMOVAL AND ADJUSTER TOOL, fits all Hitachi models and all Mikuni idle mixture screws.
    $ 17.95


    The following two tools are used only in "YICS" ("Yamaha Induction Control System") equipped engines. YICS was used on all XJ550 models, 1982-up XJ650 Maxim and XJ650 Turbo models, all XJ700 non-X models, all XJ750 models, 1983 XJ900RK, and 1982 XJ1100 models. The 1980-81 XJ650 Maxim and 650 Midnight Maxim models, as well as the 1982 XJ650 Seca models, did NOT use the YICS system. It has also been reported by some owners that some very early model 1982 XJ650 Maxim models did not use the YICS system.

    YICS bikes have front lower (oil pump) covers on both sides that have a rectangular "YICS" emblem in them below the cast-in YAMAHA wording. Non-YICS models have the oil pump covers with only the YAMAHA wording cast into the cover.

    YICS bikes also use a valve cover that has the word YICS cast into the top surface, while non-YICS models are blank or are cast "YAMAHA" (or "YAMAHA 5VALVE on 700-X/750-X models) on the valve cover.


    c5) Yamaha YICS PORT CLEAN-OUT TOOL----the YICS chamber runs side-to-side in the back of the cylinder head, and is accessed via a 12mm bolt on either end (this is the same chamber that the HCP93 synch passage-block-off tool fits into). This chamber has four tiny passages in the top, one for each cylinder. These passages can accumulate soot and other material over time, effectively clogging or reducing their capability to pass the fuel-air mixture through them, and thus compromising their function. This YICS port probe & clean-out tool has a spear point that can punch through the toughest accumulation of carbon build-up, and has marked notches on the extension rod to indicate exactly how deep into the chamber the tool must be inserted to easily locate the passages. Convenient dowel handle allows for ease of use. A very handle tool to have around! For use on all XJ650 - XJ1100 YICS-equipped engines (not needed on XJ550 engines).

    HCP1282 YICS chamber Port Clean-Out Tool:
    $ 14.95


    vv7) Reproduction YICS PORT BLANKING TOOL---this is the tool you'll need to perform a proper carb synchronization on any YICS motor......without it, you're just wasting time. This block-off tool is used to isolate each cylinder from the others while performing a carb synch. Updated version of the factory #90890-04068-00 tool. Some people claim that this tool is NOT needed to perform a proper synch; we disagree, and so do the Yamaha engineers who designed the YICS system. Quality aluminum tool features a snap-open and shut trunnion handle design like the original. This is NOT a cheap home-made tool and has all the proper seals, dimensions, and high-temp insulators as an original factory tool. IN STOCK!

    HCP93 reproduction YICS Port Blanking Tool, each:
    $ 37.00



    HCP6380 Replacement insulator SEALS SET for the HCP93 tool,
    set of 3 seals.
    $ 4.95



    HCP1410SS 18-8 stainless steel BRISTLE BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, perfect size for cleaning out the YICS passage in the cylinder head of all the built-up baked carbon before using the YICS tool. We recommend the use of an aggressive solvent when cleaning this passage, such as Hoppes #9 gun-cleaning fluid (available at gun shops) or similar.
    $ 4.50




    HCP3735 OEM cylinder head YICS passage BOLT, used on all 1981 XJ550 models, 1981 XJ750 Seca, and all XJ700 non-X engines. Fits either side. Each:
    $ 4.25

    HCP3733 OEM cylinder head YICS passage BOLT, used on all 1982-3 XJ550 models, 1982-3 all XJ650 and XJ750 models, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines. Fits either side. Each:
    $ 1.75


    HCP3734 OEM cylinder head YICS passage bolt WASHER, used on all XJ550 models, 1982-3 all XJ650 and XJ750 models, all XJ700 non-X, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 engines. Fits either side. Each:
    $ 2.75




    j2) Aftermarket Morgan CARBTUNE PRO 4-COLUMN SYNCH GAUGE TOOL.......brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. This is the one that professionals use and recommend, and is superior in design, ease of use, and accuracy versus vacuum gauges and all other versions, whether fluid-filled or otherwise. Uses damped stainless steel sliding dowel rods instead of mercury or the "blue mystery fluid", giving accurate, safe, and easy-to-read measurements. More expensive than other synch tools and worth it. Use it even once and you'll wonder how you lived without it.

    NOTE: this tool is used on all XJ engines, regardless of whether it is a "YICS" engine or not.

    Also, please note! you can sometimes find these same sticks selling at a discount at various places, but most of these places are offering a much older, now-discontinued Carbtune II version, rather than the latest, much-improved Carbtune PRO version that is offered here. The PRO version is much more durable, accurate, and easier to clean and service than the older version.

    HCP96Q Aftermarket Morgan CARBTUNE PRO 4-COLUMN SYNCH GAUGE TOOL.
    $ 114.00


    j3) Aftermarket Carbtune Pro STORAGE AND TRANSPORT CASE for the above carbtune pro synch stick......a heavy duty, nicely made zippered and clasp-closure storage case to hold the gauge and all the accessories neatly and safely. You REALLY want to have this to safely store and transport the (somewhat fragile) synch gauges!

    HCP1287 Aftermarket Carbtune Pro STORAGE AND TRANSPORT CASE.
    $ 19.00




    j5) Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT....brand new, no display box, includes all accessories and instructions. If you really want to tune your multi-carbs to perfection, you'll have to use this unique "see-through" spark plug that allows you to view the combustion chamber flame color in real-time, thus allowing accurate (rather than guesswork) adjustments to your idle mixture screws. Use it once and you won't believe how you ever got by without it, and will pity those who don't have one of their own. Beware: you'll find that a lot of people now want to be your "friend" and have you come and tune on their bikes, once they find out you have a Colortune!

    Also, please note! you can find quite a few of these plugs at a discount at various places, but most of these places are selling an older, now-discontinued "automotive" version of the Gunson colortune plug. While there are no fitment differences between the automotive and "motorcycle" versions of these plugs, just be aware that the automotive versions were designed to be used in a water-cooled engine, and thus have a significantly lower heat tolerance----and if these plugs overheat, the "clear" window either goes cloudy or just simply fractures.


    NOTE: 12mm plugs are used on all XJ550 and XJ700-X models. 14mm plugs are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X, XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models. No XJ-bikes from this era used 10mm plugs!


    HCP95A Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT, for 10mm spark plugs. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "C" are 10mm. No XJ-series bikes from this era used 10mm plugs!
    $ 54.00

    HCP95B Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "D" are 12mm, and are used on all XJ550 models and all XJ700 "X" model bikes.
    $ 49.00

    HCP95C Aftermarket Gunson COLORTUNE TUNING SPARK PLUG KIT. NOTE: NGK plugs that begin with the letter "B" are 14mm, and are used on all XJ650, XJ700 non-X models, all XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.
    $ 49.00



    j77) Aftermarket carb tuning and synchronization AUXILIARY FUEL TANK. This handy plastic mini-tank allows you to conveniently and safely store the small amount of fuel you'll need when operating the engine when the main fuel tank is removed....such as during synch procedures and colortuning efforts. Tank comes with hanger wire, 4' of the proper 1/4" fuel hose, and an in-line on-off valve.

    HCP159 Aftermarket plastic AUXILIARY FUEL TANK, half-gallon capacity. Gravity feed design, not suitable for fuel-injected bikes, but perfect for all XJ models. XJ1100 models will have to use a fuel "T-fitting" to split the outlet hose to the two carb fuel inlet.
    $ 44.95



    af12) OEM and aftermarket carb fuel bowl FLOAT LEVEL GAUGES......let's face it, setting the float level heights on carbs is a real pain in the butt (and that's being as nice as I can be about it!). You normally have to take the carbs on-and-off the bike two or three times to get the settings right, rig up some special leveling fixtures, etc. etc. If you've done it before, you know what I mean. These special tools can help lessen this nightmare (but not eliminate it, sorry!).

    Yamaha service manuals define the float-height be set via the "clear tube" method, whereby you instll a clear piece of tubing into the carb bowl drain outlet, open the drain screw, and then hold the tube upwards against the edge of the carb bowl and see how high up the fuel rises in the tube, and then compare this level to a specified distance below the carb bowl-carb body interface. Although this method IS a correct method of determining whether the fuel level int he bowl is correct, it's a rather cumbersome (meaning: after the fact) procedure for setting the float height.....as it invariably leads to a repetitive cycle of measure > adjust > measure > adjust > etc.......time-consuming, messy, and frustrating. A much better way is to set the float heights the way the factory did, using a pre-determined float height measurement, and then using the clear-tube measure to simply check the results.

    These gauges will allow you to do just that.


    HCP9798 We offer this inexpensive FLOAT HEIGHT RULER that comes with a sliding "pocket clip" (which doubles as a fixed position pointer), allowing you to duplicate your float setting measurements from one carb to the next. Ultra-thin and only a 1/4" wide, this 150mm (6") measuring stainless steel ruler has black etched rulings and is a valuable addition to your carb tool arsenal.
    $ 8.95

    HCP4 Professional quality sliding-arm FLOAT LEVEL GAUGE is specifically designed for measuring float heights and features a sliding arm that allows you to accurately measure the distance from the carb body base to any point on the float itself (normally to the top or bottom edge of the float, when the needle is in its "just-barely-closed" position) and then apply this exact same setting to the other carbs. A great time saver for this technically simple, but very time-consuming task.
    $ 42.00


    HCP1592 OEM clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear rubber tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the graduated fuel gauge up agaist the side of the fuel bowl. Black millimeter markings on the measurement tube allow you to easily determine the fuel level with respect to the bowl-to-body reference point. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ1100 models with Mikuni carbs).
    $ 24.95

    HCP4926x2 Aftermarket clear-tube FUEL LEVEL TUBE GAUGE, used to check the fuel level in the bowls when the bowls are installed by attaching the end of the clear rubber tube to the float bowl drain nipple, and then holding the graduated fuel gauge up agaist the side of the fuel bowl. Unlike the original gauge HCP1592 listed above, this is just a clear section of fuel line and does NOT have the upper end with any graduated markings. For use on all XJ models with fuel bowl drain nipples (all models with Hitachi carbs and XJ1100 models with Mikuni carbs).
    $ 3.50




    Carb Cleaning Tools:


    p1) Aftermarket CARB PASSAGES CLEANING WIRES KITS: these sets of small wire tip cleaners come in a handy aluminum flip-open case, and arae essential for probing and cleaning some of the smallest internal passages within the carb bodies to push out and free up solidified fuel "gunk" and other obstructions before blasting the passages with cleaner and compressed air. The #6 and #7 size wires are the only sizes small enough to fit into the tiny jet passages and emulsion tube holes and clean them properly (without the risk of "re-sizing" the hole by mistake). NOTE: even the smallest #6 wire is too large to clean the starter jet down in the bowl! For that task, you'll need to order the correct bowl starter jet drill bits listed further below.

    HCP950 Carb Passages MINI CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET, contains 13 wires (sizes #6 - 26) and a small flat file.
    $ 7.95

    HCP951 Carb Passages MINI-PLUS CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET. Same as the MINI set above, but contains an extra 3 (each) of the #6, #7, and #8 size wires (the smallest ones) so even if you ruin one, you'll have lots of spares (being so thin, they're very easy to break!). The miniature file---which you don't really need---is not included in this set.
    $ 9.95


    HCP953 Carb Passages MAN-SIZE CLEANING WIRES TOOL SET contains 22 small wire tip cleaners, sizes #6-45, in a handy aluminum flip-open case.
    $ 9.95


    z7) Aftermarket wire gauge BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT. As you will quickly discover if you ever try to clean or rebuild your Hitachi carbs, the tiny, non-removable starter jet that is stuck wa-a-a-y down at the bottom of a drilled passage in the carb bowl is next to impossible to clean. For one, did we mention that the jet opening is TINY? And did I also mention that it's stuck way down at the bottom of a small passageway, and basically unreachable? AND THEREFORE, NO ONE EVER REALLY EVEN ATTEMPTS TO CLEAN IT OUT? And that a clogged starter jet not only means trouble starting and idling, but that starter circuit is actually also involved in idle and off-idle performance? Well, how do you actually clean it? Even the tiniest cleaning rod in our carb passage cleaning wire sets (above) aren't small enough to fit through this starter jet (it is THE smallest jet-passage in the entire carb)...

    Well, here's how you clean it: with this tiny drill bit. Just big enough to get through the jet, but not big enough to ENLARGE the jet (that's a huge no-no), this high-speed steel bit can be gently rotated (but never "pushed", as it will break) through the toughest of crud. This is the only way to properly clean these starter jets.

    NOTE: this is a TINY drill bit, and will not chuck into a standard drill chuck. You have to use a mini pin-vise attachment or do it carefully by hand...... ALSO: this drill bit is a mere 1-1/2" long, and as such, will disappear below the top "plane" of the bowl as it goes down into the jet. You will have to use a pair of very slim needle-nose pliers to grip the tip of this drill bit and rotate it!

    HCP2296 BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT, for Hitachi carb bowls used on all XJ650 (except Turbo) models, all XJ700 non-X models, and all XJ750 models.
    $ 11.95


    HCP2293 BOWL STARTER JET DRILL BIT , for Mikuni carb bowls used on all XJ550 models, and all XJ700-X models.
    $ 11.95


    P.S. how do you know when your starter jet is really, truly, zestfully clean? One of two ways:

    a) shine a strong penlight or mini flashlight into the bottom of the bowl, where this jet passage "intake" is located. Look through the top of the bowl down into the jet passage "outflow" passage (this is the passage that the brass suction tube in the bottom of the carb body actually fits down into). Focus your eye carefully on the jet opening and make sure it's clean. P.S. it helps to do all this while in a darkened area....

    http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... rt=15.html


    b) put the spray tip (you may have to gently shape the end of it to a fine point) of a can of carb or brake cleaner into the intake opening of the starter jet and let rip a spray. A STEADY, FINE, POWERFUL STREAM OF FLUID WILL COME OUT OF THE OUTFLOW PASSAGE ON THE TOP OF THE CARB BOWL IF THE JET IS PERFECTLY CLEAN AND OPEN. I mean this stream will absolutely spit out a good 5-10 feet. If the stream isn't powerful and laser-like precise coming out of the jet, then the jet isn't zestfully clean.....

    BTW, when using the spray-stream method of checking the jet, don't even THINK of putting your eye or face anywhere even NEAR the jet outflow path, unless you like a painful and potentially serious trip to the emergency room.



    ft2) Aftermarket twisted-stem WIRE-BRISTLE CLEANING BRUSHES. The greatest tool ever invented for cleaning bored and threaded holes, such as in carb bodies, float bowls, even master cylinder piston bores. Available in either 18-8 stainless steel or brass, these brushes not only help make the job of cleaning parts so much easier, but also insure that threaded passages are clean, clean, clean and less likely to strip or deform when fasteners are inserted once again. All brushes have a "finger-loop" in the end to make twisting action easier. Stainless brushes will last longer and can clean more aggressively, so be gentle when using them on aluminum carb bodies and bowls. Brass brushes are gentle on soft metals like carb bodies, but require more effort to produce a cleaner surface and wear out more quickly.


    Stainless Steel Wire Bristle Brushes:

    HCP1288SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 3mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage galley in the carb body and the carb bowl starter jet passage.
    $ 3.00

    HCP1406SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 4.5mm diameter, great for the emulsion tube inner passage in the carb body and the pilot fuel jet passage.
    $ 3.20

    HCP1407SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 5.5mm diameter, great for the idle mixture screw port, the air jet passages, and the emulsion tube bore in the carb body, and the carb bowl drain screw passage.
    $ 3.50

    HCP1408SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 8.0mm diameter, great for the throttle shaft bore, the emulsion tube bore, and the air/fuel pipe bore in the carb body.
    $ 4.50

    HCP1409SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 9.5mm diameter, great for the float valve seat threaded bore in the carb body.
    $ 3.50

    HCP1410SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, and the starter/enrichment circuit seat bore in the carb body.
    $ 4.50

    HCP2762SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, and the starter/enrichment circuit seat bore in the carb body, and can also be used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 master cylinders.
    $ 4.50

    HCP2912SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, and can also be used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550, XJ650 Maxim, and XJ1100 master cylinders.
    $ 5.00

    HCP2764SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Seca and Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 master cylinders.
    $ 5.00

    HCP2766SS 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 19.0mm diameter, not really useful for anything carb related, but a really big, beefy, meaty, bouncy brush that looks really impressive in your toolbox!
    $ 5.00

    HCPSS-SET Complete set of nine different 18-8 STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRISTLE BRUSHES (all sizes except the 19.0mm), gives you all the sizes needed to clean your carbs, YICS port, and master cylinder bore (when that time comes).
    $ 32.00


    Brass-Wire Bristle Brushes:

    HCP1288BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 3mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage galley in the carb body and the carb bowl starter jet passage.
    $ 3.00

    HCP1406BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 4.5mm diameter, great for the emulsion tube inner passage in the carb body and the pilot fuel jet passage.
    $ 3.20

    HCP1407BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 5.5mm diameter, great for the idle mixture screw port, the air jet passages, and the emulsion tube bore in the carb body, and the carb bowl drain screw passage.
    $ 3.50

    HCP1408BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 8.0mm diameter, great for the throttle shaft bore, the emulsion tube bore, and the air/fuel pipe bore in the carb body.
    $ 4.50

    HCP1409BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 9.5mm diameter, great for the float valve seat threaded bore in the carb body.
    $ 3.50

    HCP1410BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 11.0mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, and the starter/enrichment circuit seat bore in the carb body.
    $ 4.50

    HCP2762BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 12.5mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, and the starter/enrichment circuit seat bore in the carb body, and can also be used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550 master cylinders.
    $ 4.50

    HCP2912BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 14.5mm diameter, great for the YICS passage in the cylinder head, and can also be used for the master cylinder bore in XJ550, XJ650 Maxim, and XJ1100 master cylinders.
    $ 5.00

    HCP2764BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 15.8mm diameter, great for the fuel/air passage bore in the carb body, and the master cylinder bore in XJ650 Seca and Turbo, XJ700, XJ750, and XJ900 master cylinders.
    $ 5.00

    HCP2766BR BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSH, 19.0mm diameter, not really useful for anything carb related, but a really big, beefy, meaty, bouncy brush that looks really impressive in your toolbox!
    $ 5.00

    HCPBR-SET Complete set of nine different BRASS WIRE BRISTLE BRUSHES (all sizes except the 19.0mm), gives you all the sizes needed to clean your carbs, YICS port, and master cylinder bore (when that time comes).
    $ 30.00
     
  15. LtJackboot

    LtJackboot New Member

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    Mine needs to have the throttle cracked wide open 3 times and then hit the button with the throttle turned just a little tiny bit once it catches and she roars to life. Try to start her any other way and yer' walkin' bud.
     
  16. BluesBass

    BluesBass Member

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    My XJ650L Midnight Maxim also doesn't like cold weather. I was starting her with quick start after a complete carb cleaning failed me, but was advised by a mechanic to NOT use quick start fluid as the ether in it would eat away my carb diaphragms and gaskets. Instead the mechanic recommended using a highly flammable carb cleaner or brake cleaner since they are oil based and won't cause damage to the fuel system.
    I quickly learned which carb cleaner you use matters. I had no luck with the Advance Auto store brand, but for $1 more per can ($3.59 in NJ) Advance carries a brand in a white can with a small blak cap that starts my 650 even in 25 degree weather.
     
  17. BluesBass

    BluesBass Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
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    My XJ650L Midnight Maxim also doesn't like cold weather. I was starting her with quick start after a complete carb cleaning failed me, but was advised by a mechanic to NOT use quick start fluid as the ether in it would eat away my carb diaphragms and gaskets. Instead the mechanic recommended using a highly flammable carb cleaner or brake cleaner since they are oil based and won't cause damage to the fuel system.
    I quickly learned which carb cleaner you use matters. I had no luck with the Advance Auto store brand, but for $1 more per can ($3.59 in NJ) Advance carries a brand in a white can with a small blak cap that starts my 650 even in 25 degree weather.
     
  18. BluesBass

    BluesBass Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Clementon, New Jersey
    My XJ650L Midnight Maxim also doesn't like cold weather. I was starting her with quick start after a complete carb cleaning failed me, but was advised by a mechanic to NOT use quick start fluid as the ether in it would eat away my carb diaphragms and gaskets. Instead the mechanic recommended using a highly flammable carb cleaner or brake cleaner since they are oil based and won't cause damage to the fuel system.
    I quickly learned which carb cleaner you use matters. I had no luck with the Advance Auto store brand, but for $1 more per can ($3.59 in NJ) Advance carries a brand in a white can with a small blak cap that starts my 650 even in 25 degree weather.
     
  19. cutlass79500

    cutlass79500 Well-Known Member

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    Carb cleaner will eat rubber parts up faster then starting fluid will. Not to stray from the problem but either will take 1 heck of a long time to destroy your diaphrams and there are no gaskets to destroy thru the intake track. can be several things making it start hard when cold. 1st when you cleaned your carbs did you clean the little passage out in the float bowl bottom its the size of a pin where it picks up fuel. 2nd Are the choke plungers all working correctly. 3rd float levels correct. Most of the time its #1 easy way to check fill the hole where the pipe goes into the float bowl see if it comes out the float bowl hole at the bottom next to where the pipe goes.
    It could be from low compression but i kind of doubt it
     
  20. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    I don't get down to 25...but every morning I push the choke all the way open, hit the button, then slowly close it until it starts....it's always a different spot depending on the temp. Somewhere in there, though, is the perfect mixture...
     

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