82 xj750 No idea what im looking at with wiring?!

So on my 1982 Atari i have all wiring is original as far as i know, everytime i drive all the warning lights are on headlight, brake, and all the other indicators that show right on the middle and on and they just bother me so i figured to take the headlight out and figure out how to turn them off or is that how its supposed to be? i dont know my fuel level so i go by the trip distance and would like to fix that. i looked at the wiring diagrams that are on here and im just like i dont understand it at all. i have the help of RAZZ1969 but due to scheduling we cant get together. sorry for being so elementary but is there a pictured step by step of this wiring process?

 

Sounds like the test/reset button is stuck....

 

HOGFIDDLES when I hit that reset button it goes through the headlight and so on and they blink I guess its the test?

 

The test will flash each warning signal once, starting at the top. Does the red warning lamp also flash when all of the warning signals are on? It may be that the harness is unplugged in the headlight housing. If the systems monitor does not get a signal from each circuit it displays the fault. I may have time tomorrow to see if I can replicate your symptoms. It's is also posible that the monitor is faulty (in a weird, and new-to-me way).

 

K-moe you would be a great help if you could replicate that and if you can show me pics on how they go plugged up that would be great! I dont see the red light flashing or on at all i will take that apart also to see if there's a bulb there too maybe P.O took it out because turn signals come on neutral comes on high beam comes on but no red test light on but warning s show up

 

You're right; he could have taken the bulb out. The red flashing light can be canceled, but it resets every time you turn the bike on, and for some warnings it comes back on after a few minutes. That would get annoying if there really isn't a fault. I might not get time until later in the week. Until then you ccan have a look at this thread: http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=21580/highlight=atari+wiring.html
It's about removing the systems monitor, but has the wiring diagram for the systems monitor. Ignore the notations in pencil; those are for the elimination of the systems monitor.

Another, more comprehensive diagram (in color). It's for teh UK Seca, but the monitor wiring is the same. http://sphotos-e.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/482830_525267577519923_1788846871_n.jpg


The wiring connectors for the systems monitor are the largest connector coming from the back of the gauge housing, and can only be plugged into its mate in the headlight housing. If it were unplugged entirely the system wouldn't be lighting up, so there may be corrosion in the plug, broken wires, or the some of the sensors for each warning circuit are missing or broken. I suspect that there may be a combiniation of things going on.

The easiest of the sensors to check is the one for the battery. There should be a wire with a bullet connector coming off of the bundle of wires next to the starter solenoid (white with a red tracer IIRC). use a length of wire to connect it to the positive battery terminal and check to see that the battery warning light goes out. If it does not then we need you to have a look behind the headlight to see what lurks there. If it does turn that warning off then you may just be dealing with sensors not being hooked up, or being faulty.

 

Make certain ALL ground connections are making good contact.

Gary H.

 

There is only one ground in that system. Everything that is monitored loops back to the systems monitor, which is why there are so many damned wires for the thing.

 

Ok there is no bulb in the warning spot I guess that was expected

 

Just so that ya'll know this are the warnings that stay on brk batt head tail and fuel stay on

 

Well that sounds much more like you just have some faults with sensors, and not with the systems monitor. I had gotten the impression that all of the warnings were on.

Battery will be the white with a red stripe that I mentioned earlier.

Brake is a float in the master cylinder that closes when the brake fluid level is low. On the Seca the MC is visible on the right side of the steering neck. On the Maxim it is on the right handlebar. There are a pair of wires coming out of the MC; those are for the fluid level switch.

Head reads the presence of current through the headlight. There may be a corroded teminal, or a disconnected wire. You'll have to search for it in the headlight bucket.

Tail works the same way as the headlamp. If you have a Seca, both tail lamps must light for the warning to go away. Check that the bulbs are of the correct type and raiting, that the socket is clean, and that good contact is being made, as well as for damaged or unplugged wiring.

Fuel will be the sending uint in the tank. You'll have to lift the tank up to check it. There is a small, white, flat connector with two (three?) wires. It may simply be unplugged.

 

I saw a white with red line wire closer to the battery but that line was cut when I hooked a wire to it and touched the batter while the MC was on it didnt do anything... I did see the 2 wires coming from the brake reservoir and they were unplugged but I didnt see any free wires I could connect to

 

Ok I checked for the fuel my tank just has the petcock attached to it no wires or plugs

 

The tail light both come on and I did see a bit of rust in one of the sockets cleaned that up and warning still on

 

You removed the tank to check? The sending unit is in the valley of the tank, and not visible without removal.

 

There is a ground wir coming from the engine almost next to the ground wire that attached to the battery that is not hooked up to anything I tried to connect to the negative side but it doesn't reach

 

Yes I did and got gas all over my pants idk why I wasnt expecting that haha had to drain out the gas that was in there to look at the bottom I but nothing I guess the tank is not for this bike looks like for a 650 or 550 maybe but I do see the plug with 2 wires on it guessing thats for the gas a dark green wire and a black one... for the brake its a white wire with a black line and a black wire coming from it I found another white with black line and plugged that in but I dont see a lose black wire to plug the other one to

 

Hey Jonathan sorry I haven't responded to your last text (working 6 days a week). Ironically I am having the same problem since I put my bike back together. You turn the key on and all the words in the middle stays on and the red light stays on, plus neither button works. I finally, after opening the gauges up for the forth time just took the warning (red) light bulb out, out of sight out of mind. I just keep an eye on the oil level. My gas gauge still works, and I check my lights (head and tail) every every time I get on the bike. BUT I am open to any suggestions on how to fix this.

 

Hey Ralph, no worries I figured something like that was going on. Yea ive always made sure lights work etc. But I just got tired of seeing them now k-moe is helping me troubleshoot my issues

 

“I saw a white with red line wire closer to the battery but that line was cut when I hooked a wire to it and touched the batter while the MC was on it didnt do anything... I did see the 2 wires coming from the brake reservoir and they were unplugged but I didnt see any free wires I could connect to”

The BIT (built in test) is not enabled until after the bike is started. Turn the key on, and all 7 of the middle indicators are illuminated (STND, BRK, OIL, BATT, HEAD, TAIL, and FUEL. The red warning light should also be illuminated. Touching the white/red wire to the battery will do nothing at this point. And, a caution on this, I have read several times that this is acceptable to bypass the battery sensor when a maintenance free battery is used or no sensor is available, however, I would not do this as I am not sure what is inside the gauges. Normally, the sensor is tapped at cell 4, which would be just above 8.5 volts, and suspecting TTL logic inside the gauges it seems there could be a risk of damage.

The BIT should sequence through each line once the motor is started. The gauge set is enabled and BIT initiated by the white wire coming from the generator, which happens to be the same wire that initially engages the headlight relay, and then the diode inside the headlight relay latches the relay until power is removed.

“Yes I did and got gas all over my pants idk why I wasnt expecting that haha had to drain out the gas that was in there to look at the bottom I but nothing I guess the tank is not for this bike looks like for a 650 or 550 maybe but I do see the plug with 2 wires on it guessing thats for the gas a dark green wire and a black one... for the brake its a white wire with a black line and a black wire coming from it I found another white with black line and plugged that in but I dont see a lose black wire to plug the other one to”

Here is pic of the master cylinder hookup inside the headlight bucket:



Proper level in the master cylinder reservoir results in a closed switch position for a continuity close to zero ohms across the White/Black wire to the Black wire. This effectively grounds the White/Black wire during normal operation, which can then be monitored inside the gauge for a low.

Here is the front brake switch hookup:


Pulling on the front brake lever closes the switch, which results in a closed switch position for a continuity close to zero ohms across the Green/Yellow to Brown wire. No schematic on the gauges, but pulling the brake lever and illuminating the bulbs results in a measurable current. If the current is converted to voltage through a sense resistor it can then be monitored to check for a fault condition.

As for the fuel sensor it is hooked up as a rheostat. One end should equal approximately 25 ohms and the other end approximately 325 ohms – measured at the 2 pin connector from the fuel sending unit.

The fuse inside the headlight bucket is for the backlight bulbs in the gauges. That power is routed through the ignition switch. Per the FSM print this power also goes to the plug for the LCD indicator, but pulling it seemed to have no affect on its operation.

Hopefully you can get these working. There are some legitimate warnings on the display that are well worth the effort for a safe ride.

1982 XJ750 Seca used for evaluation