Bleeding brakes

do I need a brake bleeder? Or can I use brake lever?

 

It depends on your model. You should add yours to your signature.

If the master cylinder is on the handlebars like on my xj700n then you can probably get away with using the brake lever.

I understand that some of the Seca models have a smaller master cylinder hidden below the instrument cluster that can be difficult to bleed. Rather than using a brake bleeder I have read that you can fill the system in reverse by pushing the fluid into the bleeder valves using a syringe.

The are a lot of detailed postings on this so you should do some searching on this site regardless of what model you have.

 

The Seca 750 master cylinder is below headlight , a brake bleeder is best option and are cheap think I paid 20$ for mine had it for years good investment for both Bikes and Cars .

 

Get one of these and a foot of vinyl tubing and reverse bleed the brakes. Took me about 15 minutes after a complete rebuild of calipers, master cyl, and brake lines. Fill the syringe, attach the tubing to the syringe and then to the bleeder valve and push the fluid into the caliper and up into the master cyl pushing the air out the top. Syringe is available on eBay and any farm supply store and probably Walmart.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60ml-Plast...571104?hash=item3f682abd60:g:-lgAAOSwqfNXo0cH

 

Chacal caught that I had a link to a 60 cc syringe instead of a 60 ml syringe. Here is a link on eBay, but I think you can also find them at most drug stores and farm supply stores. Sorry for the confusion—just glad Chacal caught it.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Catheter-T...461049?hash=item41ad01f5b9:g:TF0AAOSwwE5WU4Qc

 

I got one of these. It works pretty good. Much easier then not having one. I also paid about half the list price.

https://m.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-63391.html

 

The thing that makes the brakes difficult to bleed is the way the that caliper castings were drilled. How difficult they are varies by the complexity of the system (the Seca 750 master cylinder has small quality-of-life issues, but does not contribute to the difficulty of bleeding the brake system on that model).

I tend to use a vacuum bleeder (for expedience more than to get the air out), but I also employ a vibratory sander to help work any air bubbles out of the calipers, up the brake lines, and out through the return port of the master cylinder. I use that method regardless of what motorcycle I'm working on.

 

I use a large syringe similar to the post above, only I got it from the kitchen drawer (turkey baster). Hopefully, my wife will never notice as she no longer bastes turkeys...until she finds out I used it in the garage...then this turkey will be basted...

 

Contact the President--he pardons one turkey each year.

 

But the President wouldn't have any influence on my wife.

Moderators...I'm not making a political statement....

 

FYI 60ml =60 cc or, if your prefer, 2 fl.oz (approx)

 

I will: those turkeys deserve to die!

 

so i can eat them

 

I was referring to politicians!

 

me too.

 

I did this last night, 4 hrs later, lever still mushy 81-Xj750seca. Any thoughts?

 

What I do to bleed the system.
1. get a large syringe from a farm store and about a foot of vinyl tubing (you can also use a 2-stroke oil mixing syringe).

2. Cut 6" of tubing and attach that to the end of the syringe. Remove the Syringe plunger. You now have a funnel to fill the master cylinder with.

3. Break loose all four bleed fittings (be sure to put down cat litter or drip pans).

4. Tie the brake lever to the grip.

5. Fill the master cylinder and syringe.

6. Wait overnight (or at least a few hours)

7. You should now see brake fluid coming out. Close the bleeders, and untie the brake lever.

8. Bleed the brakes as normal, starting with the anti-dive bleeders, then the brake caliper bleeders. Remove the funnel.

9. You aren't done yet. There will still be some air in the system. The next step cures that, no matter what method you use to fill and bleed the system.

10. Use a vibratory sander (no sanding pad) and slowly run it along the brake lines, calipers, and distribution block from bottom to top. This will move any remaining air bubbles up into the master cylinder. Tap (or vibrate) the master cylinder to get the air bubbles to come out of the return hole. This process can also be done with a box-end wrench or other similar tool, and tapping the calipers and lines (it just takes longer).

11. Do one final bleed normally, just to be certain that the calipers are fully bled.

12. Use a flashlight to check the fuid level in the master cylinder. It should be below the fill neck. Unfortunately there is no dip-stick or sight glass on this master cylinder, so unless you empty it and measure out the fluid you will need to just eyeball it. If the fluid level is too high the brakes can hydrolock and not release.

 

Kmoe, good method, but I always seem to get hung up on step 6....patience is not my virtue.