Electrical challenges.

I picked up a 81 XJ 550 Seca. Cleaned the carbs, new battery, new plugs, changed oil, checked fuses etc. Replaced a damaged end cap on the starter, cleaned the starter up. It works fine. Learned on this forum that the headlight only comes on when the engine is running. I have no instrument lights, no brake lights front or rear; however the rear light does come on with the key turned on; engine running or not. No turn signals, no horn. Last Saturday I had the bike running for about 20 minutes. About 10 minutes into the run the instrument lights came on, and the horn worked! Still no turn signals and no brake lights. I wiggled the ignition key, checked all fuses, checked all connections. No luck. Its very capricious. Any suggestions? I appreciated all the great folks on this forum. The XJ 550 is my first 4 cylinder project.

 

Does it still have the original fuse box? If so I recommend replacing it, or at the very least replacing the fuse clips. Your symptoms are a classic example of intermittent contact at the fuse box.

 

Yes. The fuse box is original. Thank you Mr. k-moe. I will try your suggestions. I appreciate you help!

 

Here is a couple of good links in case you have not found them:

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/electrical-fuse-box.41848/#post-367960

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/index.php?threads/xj550-fusebox-replacement.20809/#post-422459

If you stick with the original fuse holder with the Radio Shack replacement they sell two versions. The single style has a larger hole for soldering and works best.

 

Yes! I might even suggest a universal fuse block like the one I got at AutoZone--you can put whatever size fuses you want in it and it's a cakewalk to wire and mount. Works like a charm in my Ramcharger and I'm for sure going to put one in my bikes.

 

That type of fuse box will not work on an XJ. That box uses a common {edited} buss. The XJ wiring harness is fused inline on all of the positive leads.
You want something like this:



I used a six circuit block on my Scea and added an outlet for my GPS and to hook up a battery tender over the winter. Chacal carries one that fits under the seat if you don't want to go to the trouble of looking for one. They come in a variety of heights.

 

you are half right. they employ a common buss, not ground. nothing about any fuse block goes to ground.

FU

 

You are right. Thanks for correcting my mistake. Typing while tired leads to errors.

 

In OP's picture, is that red stuff coming out of the valve cover a gasket? If so, looks like it could be due for replacement! Have you checked valve clearances yet? Might as well do both!

 

I hadn't looked at the pic. The orange looks like RTV. I doubt there is a gasket on that bike (aside from the cam end bits).

 

You have exceeded the limitations of my tiny brain AGAIN! What's RTV?

 

gasket goop. Room Temperature Vulcanizing stuff. Silicone.

 

Room Temperature Vulcanizing sealant. The '81 and earlier bikes used a paper gasket. A lot of them end up with wayyyy too much gasket maker on them (when they really don't need any).

 

Friggin' Vulcans! RIP Leonard Nimoy! Thanx guys. I learn something new here every day. Twice a day if the wife isn't around.

 

Yanno, you are right about that fuse block... teaches me to try to help and think when I'm tired and my allergies are acting up.

At any rate, something different is going in my bikes than the 30 year old things that are there.

 

Nice thread. The fellow I procured the bike from was not a very good owner. As I dig deeper there are a few "What were they thinking" moments. The orange RTV is one of them. There is the rubber gasket but I think when the cover was last removed a replacement gasket was not used. The original one was set back in with a little 'Orange" juice to compensate for the old gasket. I fiddled with the fuse box last night. Cleaning and wiggling the wires gave me lights on the instrument panel! A couple of the glass fuses broke. I will be shopping for one of the recommended above mentioned fuse boxes today. Thank all for your suggestions and experience. Double awesome! I will post my successes.

 

I picked up a blade type fuse holder and was able to install it today. Not quite as nice a fit as the experts but seemed to fit together ok. I was able to adjust the old glass fuse holder to accept the new fuse holder. I was able to fit into the space of the old one complete with the original cover. Lucky me.
I received a new chain, front and rear sprocket. My original sprocket was a 45 my replacement is a 46. Looked around to see if I had a problem with the number of teeth. Looks like we are divided in our opinions. So its on. Maybe I can pop wheelies better with the extra tooth.
I have included pics of the fuse box area and of the sprockets.
Still cant get the turn signals to operate. I guess I will look for a replacement flasher. Suggestions are welcome!

 

one tooth on the back will make a difference but you might not even notice it. Clean up the contacts in the turn signal switch and go over all the connections before you get a new flasher. Tell me you cleaned that old sprocket for the picture, because a sprocket should never be that dry

 

The stock flasher can be disassembled (the cover pops off from around the base) and the contacts cleaned. It's not a sealed unit and corrosion can build up and make it nonoperative.

 

You think the sprocket is dry, you should see the old chain! Bad PO. The bike has not run for a year I am told. I will fiddle with the switch and the flasher. You guys are awesome! Thanks for the great advice. Stay tuned!

 

Regarding your tail and brake lights, they use a 1157 bulb, which is dual power. When the ignition is ON or in PARK, they turn onto low wattage. When either brake switch is depressed, the high wattage part kicks in, giving you full light. However, with enough corrosion, the ground connectors on the sockets can fail, so the blue wire (running lights) grounds to yellow (brake light), making it seem like the brake lights won't come on. Happened on my bike, a buddy's 550, and another 750.

To troubleshoot, disconnect the brake switches. The light should stay on, but on low power. If they get brighter when the switches are connected, the switch is sending an on message. Adjust it, or replace it.

 

Thank you pilotsmack! Since replacing the fuse box. I have an additional miracle. The brake light works when the front brake lever is pulled! Still no brake light when the foot brake is applied. I will use your suggestion and report in. Have a nice Sunday.

 

For the raar brake light:
There is a spring between the axle of the brake pedal and the actual switch.
The spring will stretch and the brake lights will not come on when you push the pedal.
To adjust you can screw the switch up. (I mean rotate the switch and it will move upward in a threaded mount.)

 

Thank you Joris. Tomorrow night I have a few minutes. I will check the status of the switch height.

 

Off-topic, but..............Joris, what is that in your avatar picture?

 

It is the other old thing that consumes a lot of my free time, but also a lot of fun
Actually it is a train built in 1938 and I am part of the group that want to get it back on the rails.

 

Neat!

 

Chacal, I tore apart my turn signal switch. I went slow and careful. There are many small parts. I did get a wink or two from the RH blinkers! I dug to the bottom of the switch and found all three solder joints on the slide plate had come loose. Lame. How do I repair this? Would you have a replacement after market switch. Wires
​

 

Yep, that happens and unfortunately, no replacement switch component pieces are available (only the entire control switch unit). About the only other option is to try and find a cheap used unit on eBay, etc. and try to cannibalize the slider contact assy (and hope it didn't / doesn't suffer the same fate as yours). Or find someone who is REALLY skilled at soldering.

 

I do have a pal who repairs sprinkler timers and commercial Christmas lights. He would be my first choice on a REALLY skilled solder person. Thanks for chiming in!

 

My soldering expert was able to reattach the three wires to the switch slide plate. It took us two tries. The angle of the wires have to be just so. Its a tight fit. I finished cleaning inside the housing, was satisfied that the solder repair would hold and put the switch back together. Lo and behold I had right blinkers!! YES! The left blinker on the front came on but...no flash and nothing on the rear. Darn I did not want to take the switch apart again. I disassembled the rear blinker. Found a red washer and the brass end of a wire laying in the assembly. The center wire inside the bulb socket had lost the brass end plug. I was able to solder the broken end back on the wire and had slid the washer on the wire prior to soldering. This allows the center of the bulb to receive power or it goes to ground. returned all the parts to proper order and we have left blinkers!! I followed the advice of someone in the forum and the rear brake switch not operating. Shortening the spring and adjusting the nut did the trick. We now have ALL electrical lights and switches working! Whew. Thanks again to all suggestions. I think new diaphragms and intake boots are next. Then tires. Strip the tank, front fender, and rear plastic wrap thing (which is the ugliest part of the bike) Drag bars?

 

Cleaned up the inside of the case, too, very nice job!

 

WOW, now that is impressive.

 

So here are a few photos of how we have been able to move along...
Mockup for future bar choice...notice the stripped tank. I kinda like the bare metal look
Chose a straighter bar with a small rise and a small pull back. I think its the look I wanted! I set the old bars as a before/after look.
Notice the rear plastic fender that used to drop down. I hated the look so I cut it off. I still do not like the rear tail.stop light. Will be looking for replacements. Also do not like the HUGE turn signals. Will be searching for replacements. Chacal please chime in on replacements. Also am trying my hand on re-sizing and re-shaping the front fender. So far so good. I did purchase new diaphragms from JPM. They were not a fan of the ones I ordered but I found some on-line documentation that they would work. Keeping my fingers crossed. I also need to find a new home for the horns.

 

Real nice progress!

 

Thanks Skwerly!

 

Your back is gonna get wet.

XJ600 turn signals are a direct fit, and are smaller (but not too small; being seen matters).

 

Thank you kmoe. I hate riding in the rain.

 

I lived in the PNW for 32 years. Rain is just another form of sunshine.

 

Well said

 

what did you do to clean out the turn signal

 

do you just use electrical cleaner to clean the contacts . and or some crocus cloth?

 

I disabled all of the small parts from the bottom of the switch housing. I was really really careful not to lose any solder joints. I used a small fiber wire brush on my dremal motor at the slowest speed so as to not damage any of the plastic parts. This same brush was used to clean up any metal electrical or mechanical contact. I used a small amount of carb cleaner to cut through the grime. I used a small amount of marine grease to lubricate the many moving parts of the switch. It's really tedious work but I wanted the interior to be as clean and functional as possible. Are you having trouble with your swicth?

 

the same problem you are having, gotta say if your inside of parts are that clean and polished , you probaly need welding glasses to look at your bike in the bright sun

 

Yes. Clean them just as you would ignition points.

Posters above: we are discussing the flasher relay, not the bar controls.

 

Well boys and girls, I went as far as I could before parting the the XJ550. I bobbed the back, used the old sprocket for a frame brace. After market mufflers with removable baffles. Smaller turn signals, non-led so I did not have to worry about an LED flasher. I tried to craft my own seat. This was #2. The tape holds it in place while riding. I did get pods despite all of the threads on pods/nopods. It was a good project that I have passon to another owner. XJ Forever was an awesome help in taking me through the process. Thank you!

 

Make sure the new owner hooks us up with the future of the bike

 

Anyone there want to give a guess why my 85 700 (air) is not charging ? I did go to threads on wiring, but to be honest, most of it was way over my head. I am seeing many posts about the fuse box, I had the whole wireing harness off for the total resto and didn't see any fuse box, just one in-line glass 30amp coming from the battery ? Just wondering where to start with the quick and easy.

 

have you checked out the brush length in the alternator? clean the copper rings>
in this link is a good charging system test proceedure.
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

 

Ty 550H, that is the site i'll be going back to, very technical for me, but did learn a few things on it. Cleaning the brushes is the next try for me, right after making sure the fuse that was in the small black square fuse holder mounted on the back frame rail is making contact. As i was reading that could keep alt. from putting current to the battery, RIGHT ?
P.S. I hope you took the Hollywood joke in the spirt that i meant it. By no way would ai make light of your accident and really hope you are doing well and heal guick. Sounds like it was a very horrible accident. So keep your chin up ( sorry, there i go again) lol