Fuse box replacement

Just spent my Sat morning of the long weekend replacing my original fuse box.

Was fortunate that 5 of the existing wires were long enough to solder to the tabs on the box.
Picked up up all of the required components from Len at XJforever.
I have included photos of the installation.
The fuse box was slightly tall to fit under the seat in the original location, so I got out my Belt sander and removed a couple of mm on the bottom to give me some clearance. Made sure there was enough of the bottom remaining to provide clearance for the fuse holders.
Also applied some 10mil PVC tape to the bottom of the fuse box as a gasket, as there is no room for anything thicker.
Soldered all connections, even tho I had connectors. All soldered joints received heat shrink tubing.
Checked all votages prior to removing the old fuse box.
Removed wires on input side of the existing box, stripped and added shrink tube prior to soldering.
Completed output side of box.
Checked all votages prior to "Shrinking" tubing, all checked out.
Shrunk tubing, taped up harness, installed box( screwed it down to airbox)
Only think missing is the labeling, which my " shop assistant" will produce with her lable maker.
All in all, added some reliablity to my ride.
I had the main blow out on me a couple of months ago, had to MacGyver it to get home. ( cigarette foil works when in a pinch. Non smoker. Good thing someone threw it away for me)
Can now relax about this component now.

 

Sweet! Looks super clean! On a completely unrelated topic, do you have any plans for the Saturday morning of the next long weekend? Wanna do another fuse box?
I scared of electrons!

 

Matti, changing out your fuse box is super easy. I had never touched a motorcycle before and had it installed in about an hour. just use the connectors, a pair of needle nose pliers to crimp the connectors down and some heat shrink.

 

I'm afraid that is not a method which will provide a lasting electrical contact. Use a proper crimping tool. You won't regret it.

 

The connectors that Len sells fit perfectly, however I chose to solder all of the connections.
I only had to add wire to 3 input circuits, even after stripping to clean, new wire.
I will save these connectors for something else.
I bought a 40watt soldering iron and some 0.8mm rosin core solder.
With wire stripping, sliding on heat shrink tubing, twisting wires together, heating connection and soldering, took less than 5 min per connection.
If you don't get your crimping correct, as k-moe stated, you will be back at this again.
It may cause a ghost in the machine and you may be looking for this mystery electrical gremlin.
" I installed a new fuse box last year, how could that be the problem???"
Not that crimping is not a good connection, IMO soldering is the best connection.
Practice your soldering skills on some scrap wires.
Ensure you have a good soldering iron. I bought mine at a local electronics components outlet. $8 for a 40Watt iron.
If your iron is too small, it will take too long to heat, you will end up getting frustrated and getting cold joints. This is a bad as not crimping correctly.
Just saying take your time, do it correctly, which ever connection method you choose.
Matti- love to come help, but I need to do some compression testing and checking my valave clearances to figure out if my mill is worth rebuilding this winter.
I had some minor smoking tail pipes last time I rode.
Thinking it is a combination of oil viscosity and old valve guides
98,000 km on the clock.

There is a great pictorial of replacing the fuse box by another member here.
I will try to find the link.
Give it a shot, no electrons involved, unless you leave the battery connected!!


Enjoy your " Labour Day" holiday in the Great White North.

 

Motorcycles vibrate. Aircraft vibrate. Aircraft connectors are crimped. Soldered connections (if not done with a degree of expertise) will fail before a crimped connection will. The advantage of crimped connections is the ease with which they can be made, and the repeatability and speed of completing the job. I save my soldering for PC Boards and the odd inline splice.

 

Agreed.
If soldering is not your forte, crimping is great.
However, both must be completed correctly.
The solder joints in the existing fuse box was not the failure, the fuse holders failed.
At least in my case.
I expect the joints and new fuse box will outlive me.

 

Matti,
What's the worst that could happen??
Laying on the ground in the fetal position with foam coming out of the corner of your mouth?
Reminds me of the electroshock therapy they did in the 50's -60's.......
Don't forget the rubber piece in the mouth before you begin.....just so you don't bite your tongue
It's only 12v DC.

 

I did the same thing, and relocated my components

 

Thrasher,
Did you make the aluminum base to mount these components to?
Cool.
Sometimes it makes sense to relocate.

 

Yes I did. I used the old plastic piece and pop riveted the aluminum plate to it.

 

Where did u get the fuse block?

 

Upper right corner of this forum.
Len supplied the box and the associated wiring
You can look at my early photos and get the parts numbers
PM Len for pricing

 

Len's username is Chacal

 

Technically, a properly completed crimp is stronger & has better conductivity than a soldered joint
After saying that, these Faston crimps aren't the best but they are probably as good as the bullet connectors used by the manufacturer, as is a soldered joint, provided it's done properly i.e. the conductors are completely entwined before solder is applied. A soldered but-joint will fail with age

Personally I use bullet connectors, crimped with the proper tool and then touched with a dab of solder..... but then I'm a natural pessimist

 

Man. I really should do something like this during my downtime. Parts store didn't have any of the blade style fuse panels in stock so I just threw in a glass style one. Those came out nice.