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My 1st Valve cover gasket Replacement

Discussion in 'XJ DIY How-To Instructions' started by Spikethekidd13, Jan 5, 2016.

  1. Spikethekidd13

    Spikethekidd13 New Member

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    Here we got

    For my 1st job on my 82 Yamaha Maxim xj650

    The valve cover gasket looks pretty ugly, and i wanna replace it. Ive read through some of the forums relating to my job and i pretty much get the jift of everything.

    1. Ill need CAM END PLUGS.
    (Id emagin i will need 8 of these for Exhaust and intake)

    2. ill need CAM SHAFT PLUGS.
    (Dont really know much about these, nor if ill really need to replace these)

    3. Obviously the Gasket.

    4. New screws for the valve cover.
    (One concern is the torque of the screws and what specifically i should call these so that i can talk with a tech here in town to get them)

    If nothing can be answered id atleast like to know the Torque specs for the valve cover screws and also weather or not i can find the Cylinder Mounting rubbers in a kit.
     
  2. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    looks like just 1 gasket it has the half moons built in
    and for the bolts

    Gasket, Hd.Cover 1
    5G2-11193-00-00

    Rubber, Mount 1 4G0-1111G-00-00 4 needed

    Rubber, Mount 2 4G0-1112G-00-00 8 needed

    bolts

    Bolt 90109-06604-00 need 4


    Bolt 90109-06605-00 need 8

    www.xjforever.com sells them click the logo in the upper right of this page.

    valve cover bolts too, why are you replacing them?
    from haynes manual

    torq spec.PNG

    while your in there check your valve clearances read it it will help with the cylinder head cover gasket reinstall

    AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics

    the diy forum is more for posting how to do something like the link above.

    the
    XJ Technical Chat
    forum will likely get you faster answers more traffic

    welcome to the forums you will find everything you need here from instructions parts and advice.

     
    Last edited: Jan 5, 2016
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I seem to be refrencing the Airhead Valve Adjustment thread quite a bit lately.

    Pictures to go with XJ550H's answers lie within: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/posts/122016/

    Photos are of an XJ550, but the general head design and valve cover are the same.
     
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  4. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    #1) you don't need these if you have a YICS engine (which is what is supposed to be in your bike). These rubber plugs, which are separate on the earlier (1980-81 non-YICS) engines, are already integral to the valvecover gasket on the '82-up YICS engine gaskets.

    #2) don't know what these are, but they sound suspiciously like the what's mentioned in #1 above......

    #3) yes

    #4) the proper torque WHICH YOU DON'T WANT TO EXCEED is 7.2 ft-pounds (or about 86 inch-pounds).
     
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  5. Spikethekidd13

    Spikethekidd13 New Member

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    #4) the proper torque WHICH YOU DON'T WANT TO EXCEED is 7.2 ft-pounds (or about 86 inch-pounds).[/QUOTE]

    What would i have to do if ive over torqued the 8 bolts?
     
  6. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    loosen and retorque

    unless you stripped them out then helicoils are needed to fix
     
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  7. chacal

    chacal Moderator Moderator Supporting Vendor Premium Member

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    On non-critical fasteners, this is okay to do.

    Just realize that on all fasteners, the process of torqueing actually elongates the fastener.....that is the purpose of torque, to deform (stretch) the bolt by a specified amount, which thus deforms and "locks" the threads together to a given pressure. That's the whole reason there are different GRADES of fasteners (called "CLASS" in metric-speak).....the higher the grade, the more tensile (stretching) strength/ability the material has, and thus the higher torque load it can withstand.

    In the world of engineering and specifications, the actual physical property that is specified is the amount of fastener ELONGATION needed.....and you will see as such in critical, high-performance applications (i.e. aircraft, military, nuclear use). The amount of "torque" necessary is just a substitute/surrogate value which actually translates to what is necessary to produce the desired amount of fastener elongation.

    So just remember........once a fastener has been installed and "torqued", it is elongated. Re-using a fastener to the proper torque value requires ANOTHER elongation of the fastener, and this happens everytime it is re-torqued. Not so much of an issue on valvecover bolts, but on rod bols, clutch spring bolts, head studs, etc.......be wary of re-using old fasteners again and again!
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2016
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  8. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    To add to what Chacal said: When torquing a steel fasterner in an aluminum component, exceeding the torque value will deform, and eventually remove, the threads in the aluminum componenet. That damage is reparable, but it's better to not have to make the repair in the first place. Proper torque is even more important on a YICS engine beause the bolts are shouldered where they contact the head. If the torque value is exceeded the pressure from the shouldered bolt can crack a chunk out of the head, and that is a lot more expensive to fix than simply stripping the threads.

    Also, as to the cam end/shaft plugs. If you happen to have a non-YICS engine you will only need two of those plugs. Only one side of the head has the cutouts for machining the cam bearings, and there are only two cams in this engine (one exhaust, and one inlet).

    If you have a YICS engine you shlould also replace the rubber "doughnuts" on each of the valve cover bolts. These doughnuts are what compresses the valve cover gasket, and when they age they stop pressing the gasket evenly, which leads to leaks.
     
  9. Spikethekidd13

    Spikethekidd13 New Member

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    Oh thanks. Good to know.
     
  10. Tim morris

    Tim morris Active Member Premium Member

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    What is best way to remove old rubber valvecover bolt seals and replace them with out damage on shoulder bolts ????
     
  11. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Diagonal cutters. Snip and twist.
    Use silicone grease and a compression fitting ferrule to slip the new ones on.


    Better description and pics here:
    airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics.14827
     
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  12. cgutz

    cgutz Well-Known Member

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    I too recommend you use a ferrule. XJ4ever has them for about a buck, but you can probably get them elsewhere. I ruined one new rubber gasket because I forgot to use that little brass conical ferrule to slide the gasket on the bolt, even while lubed with silicon grease.

    I also couldn't get a torque wrench into the area to tighten the inside valve cover bolts. I used a regular little allen wrench and finger tightened. Figure my old fingers don't get more than 5-7 lbs of torque. In any case, with new bolt gaskets, it doesn't leak, and they haven't come loose.
     
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  13. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    I used 1/4 inch drive with extentions to get above the fframe
     
  14. Tim morris

    Tim morris Active Member Premium Member

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    It's funny but I found a little plastic cone fitting in my air compressor kit they use for the car probably for like a basketball or something like that anyway I took a drill bit and I reamed it out and the bushings slid over the bolts no problem thanks everyone
     
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