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Oil/Filter change on 81 XJ650

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Darth_Menace, Jun 30, 2011.

  1. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    Hey guys, first off, yes I did try the search function, but it kept coming back as database error so I thought i'd start another oil change thread. I have never done a oil/filter change on this bike. I changed the oil when I first got it, but the filter bolt thing was stripped so I didnt change the filter. Long story short, just today I got a new bolt welded onto the oil filter bolt and it came off fine.

    I have a new oil filter, oil filter bolt, and ready to rock, but I am not 100% sure what goes where, etc so I thought i'd post here before I go ahead.

    - First off, I have no idea what grade oil to use...I see the Haynes book says 20w40 for over 5 degrees celcius or 10w30 for below 15 degrees celcius (and I see online there are a couple other suggested grades). I'm confused because biking weather is usually over 15 degrees celcius, so neither options in the Haynes manual makes sense. I'd obviously prefer the 10w30 because it's always on sale

    -second, I bought that new oil filter bolt thing, and it came with a black rubber gasket on it. I also got an orange one that looks similar to it, in the oil filter box, and Yamaha sold me one seperately. Am I missing something here or is there another place that those small orange gaskets go?

    -which way does the oil filter go? one way has more of a bump then the other side.

    -after taking off the oil filter case, I see another small bolt facing towards the ground. Am I suppose to take this off and does oil drain out there?

    -My oil level glass doesn't work so it's all just a guess as to how much I put in, and I only have the left kickstand....so once the oil filter bolt and oil drain plug is out, is there anything else I do to make sure it's all out?

    -Where does this spring go?

    Thanks a tonne guys. I'm pumped to get this old oil filter out because it was so gummy.
     
  2. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Dude, you need a book.

    In order asked:

    -20W50 is fine; just be sure you use MOTORCYCLE not "car" oil.

    -The orange o-ring is the same as the black one that's on the bolt; now you have a spare.

    -The flat side goes toward the motor; the indented side faces out, and the spring presses against it, pushing the filter against the motor.

    -Yes. See the pic; that is the drain plug.

    -Your oil capacity is the little number (probably 2500CM3) cast into the clutch cover. That means 2500cc's or 2.5L. You want to add another 300CC's or so, for a total of around 2.8L; and you really need to get the sight glass clean.

    -Put the bolt in the housing, put the spring over the bolt, then the thin washer (that you're probably missing) then put the filter on the bolt ("dented" side facing the spring) and screw the whole mess onto the front of the motor. There is a tab on the top of the housing that should stop against a fin on the motor, to keep it from turning.

    DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE OIL FILTER BOLT; 11 FT/LBS is the spec, not very tight. Drain plug goes to 31 ft/lb.

    DRAIN PLUG:

    [​IMG]


    EXPLODED VIEW:

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    thank you for the help. I do have a book...perhaps not the same as you are talking about.

    How does a person clean the sight glass? I figure if I can attempt it, I had might as well do it before I add the oil
     
  4. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    I cleaned mine when I had the cover off to change the clutch. If you can't see the oil at all, it might be worth it to take it off and clean it.

    HOWEVER...you should have, or be prepared to buy and not ride your bike until it arrives, the "clutch cover gasket". You are supposed to change it, and any good mechanic would. It's a pain in the rear to change it, and if I had to do it again, I would probably just bolt it on and see if it leaks before I went through the trouble of getting the 30 yo gasket off. But theoretically, it should leak if you don't replace it....so you might as well have the gasket handy. Get what I'm saying?

    Once the cover is off, use a q-tip and some type of light solvent to get in there.
     
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  5. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    dudes, I screwed up some place. who knew that a motorcycle oil change could be screwed up, but I did it.

    I emptied what I could...added the amount stated. I tried to start it and it starts to try to start and then the low oil light flicks on for a fraction of a second and it dies. It did this right when I first did the oil change, but i thought it was just the oil wasn't to the right place, and then it started and ran fine and I drove it a bit. now, I went to start it for the first time since that time and it does it again. I don't want to keep trying to start it as I'm sure this isn't good for the motorcycle.

    I put the filter in right and the right amount of oil in. what would be your guess as to the problem?
     
  6. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    does anbybody have a guess as to what;s wrong? I am not gonna drive this thing until i get the problem fixed. who thought an oil change could be messed up
     
  7. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    You can check your electrical connections...I'm not sure if the low oil switch will kill the engine or not, I'm pretty sure it will just turn on the light, if I'm reading the diagram correctly.

    The oil light should come on when you start the bike...

    Make sure there's enough oil...the level switch is only in the sump, it doesn't sense pressure at all. Check for leaks, etc. What kind of oil did you put in it? When was the last change? What did the old oil look/smell like?
     
  8. bigfitz52

    bigfitz52 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    Level switch is only that, just a floaty thing that turns on a light; no interlock with the starting circuit.

    As above; how much oil of what type did you put in?

    Although it's highly unlikely the issues are related...
     
  9. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    I don't see any leaks, and I know there were none before i did the oil change. perhaps I didn't tighten something enough, but I dunno.

    I know for a fact the last oil change was this april as I drained the old stuff out and put some new stuff in as it sat there for two years. April was just an oil change, as the filter bolt was stripped. This last one was a oil/filter change.
     
  10. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    I guess is there is no interlock, i must be "seizing" it. :(

    I put in 2.8 (ish) litres of 20w40 castrol gtx
     
  11. 213chrisp

    213chrisp Member

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    gtx automotive oil?

    or 4 cycle motorcycle oil?
     
  12. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    dunno
     
  13. doc2029

    doc2029 Member

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    If it didn't say 4 Cycle motorcycle oil on the container then it was car oil. Not what you want. My local Napa has this little section for Motorcycle, ATV oils. it is easy to miss I had to ask the first time if they had oil for motorcycles. While I am sure it isn't 100% related, I'd check your containers to see what you did buy, if car oil go back to the store buy 4 cycle motorcycle oil and repeat.
     
  14. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    Just went and bought 20w50 of Castrol GTX. I dont think the last oil i put in was 4 stroke, but I could be wrong. The previous owner gave them to me.
     
  15. doc2029

    doc2029 Member

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    I am gonna go out on a limb saying you put car oil in your bike. Castrol GTX as far as I know and there is a lot of room for me to be wrong here but I believe this is car oil not motorcycle oil. The label will say 4 Cycle Motorcycle Oil. The P.O. may not have known any better, most people don't they just assume oil is oil
     
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  16. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    ya, this is castrol GTX 4 stroke stuff that I bought. I don't know about the previous oil though. But if I did put car oil in there before, it didn't do the stalling out thing like it did now so i'm guessing this seizing thing isn't because of the 4 stroke/car oil problem. But I had might as well start over fresh and see where i went wrong. better than ruining the motor
     
  17. JFStewart

    JFStewart Member

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    Automotive oil has friction modifiers that will cause the bikes started clutch and transmission clutch to slip. It won't cause the problem you are describing.

    This sounds like a carb or ignition problem. Try using starter fluid and see if it continues to run on that. If it does, carbs. If not as soon as it dies pull a plug lead and see if you have spark.
     
  18. day7a1

    day7a1 Member

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    I doubt the problem you are describing is related to the oil...it wouldn't be the first time such a coincidence of action-->problem was simply coincidental.

    If you have oil in it, try to start it, and watch the oil level...it should drop. If it doesn't you might have a bad oil pump.

    Of course, I just re-read what you wrote...are you just anxious to try to start it without oil and cause damage? Sometimes bikes die after you start them...you just have to start them again. I can understand your hesitation if you never cleaned the sight glass!
     
  19. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    uh oh, i found out the problem. I put the oil in and drops came out of the drain plug. I am thinking it is stripped? It surely won't turn to 31ft/lb or anywhere close to it. but then again it doesn't turn freely as I would expect a stripped drain plug bolts to do....

    this is not good
     
  20. Darth_Menace

    Darth_Menace Member

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    or is there a bolt gasket that may be pooched?
     

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