'82 XJ750 Maxim Build Summary + Links to Tech threads

Ooooh. It's got the "QuanTanium non-stick coating"! You sure you want to paint over that? Mmmmm...QuanTanium!
All kidding aside, clever re-purposing! Made me laugh!
I wonder if the life time warranty will still work!

 

Lol it was a tough decision to make but unfortunately the Quantanium (seriously. Quantanium?) coating has to go.

Also please note the "corrugated surface for even browning." I prefer "corrugated surface for effective heat dissipation."

I really don't think I could have scored a better tray without spending 6 hours measuring, cutting, and welding up something of my own.

 

Agreed. It works, it's cheap, it'll look decent, it'll save time! Good thinking. Serious question, though: will the non stick coating take paint? You may have to scuff it to make it work.

 

Well if Quantanium is as non-stick as the label implies then no it won't.

I'll hit it with something coarse before I paint it.

Another fun fact: I received my MV-32 form from the troopers that came by last week. Those guys really saved the day otherwise I would have had to load it up and drive to a station (read my "In desperate need of VIN help"
Thread for more details).

I almost got bold and asked them to VIN verify my Title-less cb750 so that I can send off the info and fees to register it in Vermont (a non-title issue state if the bike is over 15 years old) and then transfer it to PA (who recognizes their title-less registration). By law they will recognize that VT is a non title issue state that also registers motorcycles to out of state-ers, and will have to issue me a PA title.

I decided against that as I had something to prove already, but Laws are fun.

 

I have followed your VIN thread... seems almost as challenging as the work on the bikes themselves. Which would I rather, deal with DMV and troopers and their paperwork, or rewire the Seca? I know which would make me feel better!

 

Haven't updated in awhile. Today I picked up my seat from the upholsterer and he did a fantastic job. It's just mocked up at the moment, but the big news is that with the help of two friends much larger than I, we were able to ride/push it out of my basement.

At this point I have all the parts I need at home except my radiantz led tail/blinkers and some other odds and ends. Now comes the fun stuff! Rejet, wire, and paint! Happy spring!

 

that's impressive.

FU

 

I like the fitment where the tank meets the seat. A lot of custom seats don't look as good in this area as yours does. Not much padding there, though. Your kids will have headaches, and that seat is to blame!

 

That fitment took many hours of me fiberglassing. I took the pan I made to him. I'll be happy if I never have to work with the stuff again.

But I still have to give him credit.

It's not thick, but it's good high density foam, and I live in the city so typically my rides aren't super long. I'll buy a gel pad for any extended rides.

 

Still need to post lots of pictures and complete many little cosmetic tasks, but we're on the road! Need to weld up the exhaust, but I went up two sizes on the main jets and put two shims under each needle and the plugs look fine. It's extremely loud which I dislike, but I've got to say that it runs a million times better than it did when I put it away for the winter, even with the pods and open exhaust.

 

Looks really good!

 

Thanks everyone. So after actually pulling the plugs after a long ride, I'm definitely running lean.

The plugs are white. Now, it could be because of the open headers that they're all white (I'll put it away until the exhaust comes in) but number 4 is totally black. I noticed that the #4 exhaust doesn't get nearly as hot as the others.

I went up two sizes (from 120-124) on the main jets, and also added two washers/shims to the needles.

Should I look into adding larger pilots as well? Any suggestions there? And Why would one cylinder's plug be so black? Guess I should just buy 4 new ones and start from there.

But I definitely don't want to run it until I get it running richer. I should add that my air screws on top are out 3-1/12 turns. Suggestions appreciated folks.

 

double check your float levels. I am guessing that #4 is high and the other three are low.

FU

 

Will do. I've got a lot of painting/tuning to do so now is as good of a time as ever.

Now, exhaust: not too confident in my abilities here...I wanted to go 4-2 with the cans pictures above, but that involves buyin cone eng. collectors, paying the welder, and waiting. Which I'll do...but a quicker solution might be to go 4-4 and use four of those mufflers set side by side.

Fitment of four under the frame aside (I could send 2 of them back if they're too wide), I am assuming I will need to tune it even richer compared to a 4-2 correct?

I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but I have no problem spending an hour or two after work trying different jets for a good result.

 

Lookin good brosef! That seat & pan came out great! I used those same mufflers on mine & you can't beat them for the price. The fiberglass packing on the baffles didn't last very long though so I would suggest ordering a package of fiberglass matt to repack them. I did it on mine after the original stuff blew out in the first 100 miles. It's pretty simple and it made a big difference in the tone.

FtUp could be spot on with his advice on the float levels. Have you tried adjusting the air mix on that one cylinder to bring it up? I wouldn't worry about rejetting now if you're going to be putting mufflers on soon. I bet you'll be real close with a little bit o' back pressure.

 

if you could get a collector box from a 750, that would stabilize the back pressure and make the muffler choice easier. You have to have one part finalized to get the other right.
get fancy
http://www.coneeng.com/motorcycle_components.html

 

All good responses. It's my understanding that turning an air screw counter clockwise (out) will lean it out, no? I I feel as though any more than 3 1/2 turns is pushing it, and I should look to my floats. Does anyone have a DIY on how to make a rack for the carbs?

Bike is parked until I can let the paint on the wheels dry and fashion up an exhaust. May just bite the bullet and get 2 of the cone engineering 2-1 collectors and pair them with 2 of the emgo shorties above. I don't see why I couldn't tack it in place and drive it a mile down the road to the welding shop.

But I'm still considering a 4-4...I'm just a little worried about width. Will measure tonight and have a solution this weekend.

Also I'd like to take a moment to say that plasti-dipping this wheels last fall was a huge mistake. It took me two cans of WD-40 and about 5 hours to get it all off so that I could paint.

If you have a media blaster it's no problem to remove it, but heed my warning. It was miserable without one

 

Can you share wher you got t he frame hoop from? and how is the build going?

 

No. Out is richer.

 

Out = richer. Correct.

Might want to look into getting a Colortune 14mm set for your tool arsenal. Awaiting mine now so I can dial my carbs in for good