HOW TO: Install an aftermarket fuse box

I work at a parts store and all I was able to find was the glass style. After alot of digging I found one that has a covered top that screws down with either 4 or 6 fuses. My supplier was out of the 6 fuse style so I just got the 4. I have a 82 Maxim and it fits great under the seat. It also has spade terminals for easy upgrades or replacement.





Minneapolis guys can PM me and I can set you up. Retail price was about $14-$15.

 

I have the replacement fusebox from Chacal and a 750 Maxim. I made a cardboard model of the new fusebox, and the amount of space available seems really tight according to my measurements. I have searched and found pictures of 650 and 550 fusebox replacements, but I have not run across many Maxim 750 pictures. Can anyone offer a link or give some hints about whether or not this is going to fit, and if you had to move the location a bit, how you did it?

I guess this is another option:

and that sounds like a great idea. My only concern is that the side of the battery behind the side cover might get more road spray than under the seat. Am I off base on this? The spade terminals on my replacement box are pretty exposed.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and/or links to pictures.

 

The Terminal Ends of the Wiring to the Fuse Box were not exposed.

Solder and two Heat Shrink tubes prevent moisture from entering at all.

 

Thanks, Rick! I also looked at that alternative location you showed under the seat on top of the battery box, but have to see if the terminals from the fusebox would fit under the main wiring harness. Soldering the wires to the terminals and using heat shrink would save some room.

More head scratching ahead of me. I'll keep you posted.

 

Great How-to! Thanks Gamaru! Went with the 6 post model so I can wire in a receptacle for charging the ipod and blackberry easily!

 

Just an Editors Note to Fuse Box Replacement Wiring.

The Fuse Box is "A Critical Junction"

If you have the ability, ... Solder the Wires to the Fuse Box.
Avoid using Crimp Connections and Terminal Ends.

Where possible: Use Color Coded Wire matching the scheme.

Soldering and Heat Shrinking ... Splices and Connections will reduce the possibility of a Bad Crimp getting loose.
The Soldered Connection is permanent and can't come loose.

Use Nail Polish to Color-code similar colored Crimed-on Terminals.
RED = Hot = +12Volts - ON

(Use the RED Nail Polish to Color around the HOT Terminal of your Battery, ... too!)

 

A bit excessive and pricey but good sounding...
Would this fit in the same general area as the original fuse panel on an 82 750 Maxim?

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... kitoptions

Size (not including mounting ears): 81mm x 58 mm x 30mm (3 1/4" x 2 1/4" x 1 1/8") - (l/w/h)



Any general comments on his relay kits? I found his site while researching replacement horns. He appears to make good quality kits, but I'm not sure if they are over kill and way overpriced.

 

What's wrong with it?

Violates K.I.S.S. (Keep it simple, stupid!)

You don't want a Buss.
You want individual Circuits,
To properly install that device ... each Circuit Wire needs to have the stripped end "Tinned" with solder.

If you have to solder a connection ... the connection should be Rattle Proof.
The Screws to connect the Circuit Wires to the Buss could vibrate loose.

That's very handsome.
Belongs protecting something stationary and not subject to the elements.

 

I agree. Very cute; but a big bundle of potential failures waiting to happen once subjected to our environment.

Anything we use on a bike has to be Heavy Duty Automotive grade, and then some. The original fuse box was primitive but rugged; only age and a poor choice of materials (the metal used for the clips) made it obsolete.

The modern blade-type fusebox is even more rugged, having eliminated the glass fuses.

 

Okey dokey. But at least it's pretty. LOL

 

Metal_Bob – Good link !
Although the PC-8 is wrong design (bus).

At same website I found:
Metri-Pack 280 3 Fuse Fuseholder for ATM Type Mini Blade Fuses
(3-circuit-mount.jpeg)

I have already replaced my fuses using 4 in-line fuse holders like this:
Cooper-Bussman 30A Fuseholder for ATM Type Mini Blade Fuses
(c-bfuseholderlong.jpeg)

The Metri-Pack 280 is so compact, it makes me think about redoing using two of them.

 

Im going to be doing this to my 81 XJ650 Maxim, a little touch of modern lol

 

This is how mine turned out. I DID need to relocate its' position due to seat clearance issues. This holds both size blades without any issues. I plan I n redo it sometime. I ran out of time to make it neater.

 

I've got 6 terminal fuse box that I think I'll have to relocate on my Seca . Could someone tell the AWG for the wiring into the fuse box and where can I splice into to add another circuit to the fuse box that would be keyed the ignition switch so it only works with the key on? Thanks Jaimie

 

Okay why are pictures missing from some of these DIY write-ups?

 

Some of the photos were hosted by another website. When this site transitioned from the old software those links could have become broken. Some of the members have also moved on and may have deleted their pictures from the hosting site that they used. If you do a google search they may still come up for you to view and save.

 

ah roger

 

Does anyone know how you would wire up a box just like this?

 

You would not without needing to make an entire new wiring harness for the bike. That is a common bus fuse block and the XJ series does not have a common bus electrical system. You can use it to add accessory circuits though.

 

I thought I'd share some bits of my installation on the '81 XJ550 Seca. I'm a fan of the shrinkable butt splices shown in the first picture. The results were immediate in that all lights were nice and bright after the change over!