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installing fork seals

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Jim Lahey, May 18, 2015.

  1. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    Hey all. I'm redoing fork seals on my 81 xj650h maxim. I needed some advice on proper method of installing new seals. Do I install on outer tube then slide top tube inside(xj bikes write up)? Videos out there I've seen have the seal using the top tube as a slide installer with a driver clamped around top tube.

    Also there is a short two inch spring that same out when I seperated inner and outer tube that I can't find in fork diagram on xj bikes write up. Does anyone know the order this spring goes in?

    Thanks.
     
  2. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    Thanks.
     
  3. Lee66cj5

    Lee66cj5 New Member

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    I use a socket that is slightly smaller than the tube to lightly tap the seal in. The small spring slides over the damper rod that is then inserted into the top tube. The larger spring then fits on top of the damper rod.
     
  4. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    Thanks, I figured out spring location when disassembling other fork.

    Do you install seal in outer tube and then assamble to inner fork or this method?



    I figured out 5/8 spark plug socket reversal with extensions to remove lower hex bolt on second fork, much easier disassembly.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2015
  5. Lee66cj5

    Lee66cj5 New Member

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    I tap the seal in the outer tube first. After the deal is seated then I assemble the inner tube. You may have to tap the seal in with some authority just don't bend it.
     
    Last edited: May 18, 2015
  6. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    Yeah I'm curious because the seals I took out had a definitive, hexagonal crush to seal and seal springs, possibly from a socket, previous install. I like delboys method in the video.
     
  7. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    It's funny because I have a .pdf of workshop service manual that states to use a large socket but even I would use the flat end and extensions?
     
  8. Lee66cj5

    Lee66cj5 New Member

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    The socket I used was just a little smaller than the fork tube so it pushed against the outer wall of the seal. Don't hit it too hard or it will bend.
     
  9. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Use a length of 1.25" PVC pipe, the end cut square and the OD sanded down to fit smoothly inside of the lower fork leg. Another good choice that will not damage the new seal is to wrap the upper fork leg with electrical tape until it is the same diameter as the fork seal, then use the upper fork leg as a slide hammer to tap the new seal into place. Neither method will damage the new seal, which a socket will do.
     
  10. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    I look at new seals and the hex pattern is factory on top side of seal. Thanks for input Lee.
     
  11. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    Thanks KMoe
     
  12. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

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    Here's a pic from manual is it the one that Dotson damper rod#9 image.jpg
     
  13. Jim Lahey

    Jim Lahey Member

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    Thanks too many, that's the diagram in my manual. It's in .pdf format and did not have access at the time of questions. Now that I finished my work schedule time to re-assemble and ride.
     
  14. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

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    Yes pdf is handy but nothing like a book in front of you
     
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  15. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Ok guys
    I’m working on my 650 today and my problem is #9 on the diagram will not come loose. The end inside is not hexed so I can get down there with a spark plug socket. It looks to be perfectly round. The Allen bolt on the bottom is loose enough but I’m not wanting to wreak anything. Thanks for your help in advance
     
  16. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    What you need is a broom handle. Use it in place of the sparkplug socket.
     
  17. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    Ok
    My eyesight is not so good any more but I managed to get one side apart by using my small 3/8" impact. Once apart I could see on part #9 it has a 12 point socket look to it. So a trip to the hardware store and some 1/2" all thread and some nuts did the trick. I cleaned everything all up and installed the new seals and dust covers. It all went together very nice. Now I found the front caliper needs a rebuilt so a parts order is due.

    Thanks
     
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  18. Maxim-X

    Maxim-X Well-Known Member

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    While you have the front end torn down as far as you do, have you considered doing the steering bearings as well? In for a penny, in for a pound!
     
  19. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    I would but this bike only has 6200 miles on it.
    Just some lube and it’s just fine. Wish instead of individual ball bearings they could have used taper bearings.
     
  20. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Tapered bearing kits are available. I'm very happy with mine.
    The stock ball races were notched at only 19,000 miles (likely due to no maintainance being done).
     

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