Problems

Did a gasket kit on my engine to reseal everything. Thats not the problem tho. I have a couple things.

1. When push the start putton the start just spins inside doesnt engage the starter clutch, Time for new startor?
2. Clutch cable is super loose tried adjusting it nothing works maybe over stretched?
3. clutch doesnt engage/disengage even tried pulling it with my hand the lever wont move maybe aligned wrong

 

knowing what bike you have would help.

(Going off of what I know JX750)
If the starter is spinning but the bike will not turn over then the problem is most likely in the starter clutch. The only way the is the problem is if the shaft is broken of the gear is striped. Both would most likely make a nasty sound.
the other two are related

everything needs to line up properly. I had to remove my clutch cover a couple of times to get everything correct. Follow the instructions in the manual (i don't remember the steps offhand) also this is assuming you or PO removed the clutch cover at some time.

 

Sorry its an 81 xj650 maxim...i put a multimeter to the battery fully charged over night only read 9.5V

 

New battery time.

 

Could that be the problem with is not starting?

 

yes it will not start with 9 volts the electronic ignition will not work with that low of a battery.
also may not be spinning the starter fast enough to engage i am not sure on that. I hope someone will correct me if I am wrong about the starter

 

Low voltage will keep the starter from spinning fast enough to allow the starter clutch to engage. It will also prevent the TCI from being able to fire the ignition coils.
Start there and check back with the results.

When you replaced the gaskets how far did you tear the engine down? Which gaskets got replaced?

As for the clutch: Per Rick ( I miss Rick as mich as I miss Fitz).

"I've tried leaving 1~3mm of Freeplay at the Clutch Lever.
Frankly, leaving slack makes riding these Bikes miserable.
1st Gear Clunk.
Red-light Creep.
And the one I really hate, ...
NEUTRAL Fight.

The Engineers made Fine-Tuning the Throw-out, ... Eazy!

There's a Cable Slack "Knurl & Lock Wheel" ... right on the Perch.

Set the Knurl so you can Adjust it, ... BOTH ways.
50~50
May be tightened.
May be loosened.

With the Knurl set to give you what you need, ...
Adjust the BOTTOM End.

Its tricky; because the Cable Bracket at the Lower-end is not user friendly.
Modify it.
Drill two holes through the Lower Bracket.
Secure the Lower Adjustment Barrel in the Adjuster with a pair of Plastic Ties close to the ends of the bracket.
So you can loosen the Cable Adjusters and not have the Cable fall-out.

Get the Freeplay out of the Case Rod.
Get a Looong throw at the Arm.
Check to see that the Upper Cable Sheath is seated TIGHT in the Knurl.

Use the Lower Cable Adjusters to take-out ALL the slack in the cable.
Adjust the Cable to ZERO-LASH.
Get all the throw your Bike has to give.

Fine tune by adjusting the Knurl on the Clutch Perch.

No Clunk ... No Creep ... and, ...

You can get the damn thing into Neutral without risking damage to the Dogs on the Shift Drum or Bending the Forks.

Now, ... you Adjust the Clutch with your Thumb and Index Finger."


Now then..... What else needs doing? Valves checked? Brakes rebuilt? Rear brake shoes checked for delamination?