1985 Maxim X 700 Issues

I recently became the proud owner of a Maxim X 700. Bike is in very good condition, with just minor issues. Got some questions for you guys, I'm sure there is information about some of this stuff I'm going to ask on this forum, but I'm new and figured it'd be fun to talk to some fellow owners.

1. Bike came with pod filters, but was not rejetted for them. They weren't on long, I was told they were only put on because the stock airbox was broken. My question is, are there any aftermarket filters that give roughly the same airflow as the stock one? Bike runs good, but is a little on the doggy side, which I suspect is due to it running lean. Checked the spark plug, and it is a little grey close to the electrode, with tan at the base. I want to keep the bike as stock as possible, but it seems like finding a stock air box is going to be difficult. I definately don't want the pods, the ones on there are pretty cheap, I'd much rather have one filter for all four carbs that doesn't require rejetting (A man can dream).

2. My bike is water cooled. When idling the temperature gauge gets just a little past the black on the gauge, but not quite in the red. The fan does kick on, but it does when the temperature is about at the edge of the black, and it definately takes a little while to get it down. This was on a 80 degree day. Is this normal? When I get up to speed it definately stays cooler. It most likely is running a little warmer if the bike is running lean.

3. Petcock on my bike needs a rebuilt. Someone added an inline shutoff valve right after the petcock, which does its job, but eventually I do want the get the petcock rebuilt. Been able to find some kits online for it, but if someone has good experience with one let me know!

Another question, is the manual for the XJ700X the same as the XJ700? Or do the water cooled bikes get their own manual?

These issues aside, I absolutely love the bike and am happy with my purchase. Paid $1250 for the bike, 25000 miles. Attached a picture if people want to look.

 

this link is for rebuilding the petcock
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threa...um-fuel-valve-w-pics.25058/page-4#post-465884

you will not find a replacment filter that works like the airbox.

thay are 2 different factory servive manuals

HCP1143 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all 1985-86 XJ700 non-X (air-cooled engine) models.
$ 89.95

HCP1145 Reprinted factory SERVICE MANUAL covers all 1985-86 XJ700 "X" (water-cooled engine) models. NOTE: this manual can also be used by owners of the 1985-86 XJ750-X models, as those bikes are 98% identical to the XJ700-X models. The main differences will arise in a few engine and carb specifications, as the 750 engines used a different crank and rod (a longer stroke was used to gain the extra cubic inches; the cylinder bore---and thus the pistons, rings, jugs, heads, etc.---remained the same).
$ 89.95

 

Thanks for the info. Might try wrapping a sock around the pods to see if i can get them dialed down.

 

there are threads in the mod forums of members who have had success in the pod conversion you should search for them with the search box above. some have been quite inovative to get it done

 

I got a service manual for my air cooled XJ700n off Ebay. You might try there. Seems that I've seen somewhere that getting an air box back in the bike is a real pain in the backside. That said, you can probably find an air box on Ebay.

 

But not as bad as trying to jet for pods on cv carbs which weren't engineered to use them. Pods would be alright if there was a actual kit that would allow the bike to dial in equal to having the air box...there isn't any.

Gary H.

 

Found the airbox for an '85 XJ700, doesn't sound like its the water cooled verson, but I would think its most likely the same airbox on both bikes. Will have to return if I discover it doesn't work. I wanna try all I can to get back to stock! I believe I have some valve adjustments to do in my future as well.

 

you can look up parts on www.yamahapartsnation.com if it is the same part number it will fit i use it as a cross referance for parts

 

Just checked the parts diagrams on the XJCD; the airhead part number is 1FG-14401-00-00, while the X is 1AA-14401-00-00. I get the impression they are the same part.

Pretty much. There's a post floating around here where one person put in a sensor with a lower threshold, so the fans kick in sooner - can't seem to find it right now.

 

nevermind.

 

Thank you all for the information! Looking at the diagram of the stock airbox it would definetely be way more restrictive than pods. I'll most likely try and get the airhead one. I definately want the pods to go, the ones on their are very cheap. I wrapped the pods with some paper towels for now to cut down the air, but thats more of a bandade solution. Looks like crap as well.

On another note, I was successful at finding both the owners and service manual on scribed.

 

Here's the thread for the fan switch mod:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/maxim-x-radiator-fan-switch-modification-update.40133/

You may want to flush out the cooling system and back flush the radiator while you at it too.

The stock air box for the "air cooled" 700 will work. However, you will need the correct carb boots and clamps that are properly sized for the 33mm Mikuni carbs. Read through this thread and contact Chacal for the proper ones:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/xj-parts-catalog-section-c-fuel-system.44642/

Getting the stock air box installed with the engine in place is tough. You will definitely need to remove the carbs and starter. Make sure you heat up the box with a heat gun to help it flex a bit when getting past the bulge for the starter on the rear of the engine case.

May I also suggest getting the valve clearances in spec. At 25K, it's due.

Tony

 

Just a suggestion - do your carb cleaning and rebuilding first, and get the bike running smoothly before you put the airbox on. It's normal to have to take the carbs on and off several times to get them cleaned properly, and that's way easier to do before you hook them up to the airbox and boots. Fiddle with jets only when everything else is already perfect, or you'll be chasing your tail.
It's true that the bike will probably run better than with the airbox than it does with the pods assuming that the carbs are clean, the slides move freely, and there are no leaking throttle shaft seals, etc. But don't assume that the pods are the only issue. The bike should run 95% good with the pods, then do the airbox to bring it up to 100%.

 

Gary H.

 

+100 ^^^ The airbox play a vital role in ideal airflow and combustion.
All of the work needed to have a good baseline for tuning can be done on the bench. The only time carbs would need to be removed multiple times is if something was left undone, or someone insists on running things non-stock and needs to dial in the jetting.

 

I was told the carbs were gone through by a mechanic a month before I bought the bike, but were not rejetted. Why no rejetting was done with the pods, I do not know. I did order an airbox, should be here in a week. In the mean time, I mine as well take y0ur advice and go through the carbs. The bike does really run fairly well, fires right up when cold and idles smoothly for the most part, but it definitely seems like it should have more low end torque. It seems to bog down when given throttle. I taped up the pods with Gorilla tape, put in a new spark plug, and took the bike out for a quick run to see what color the spark plug would turn to. Spark plug came out light grey, but not white. Needless to say, I most likely won't be doing anymore running until I get the stock air box on. Is it a lot harder to remove the carbs with the stock airbox on? Is this why you hear about people destroying it sometimes?

I wanna get as much work done on the bike before college starts up again in a couple of weeks.. Gonna be my commuter between work and class! At least until it starts snowing around here...

 

It's a good looking and well built bike. It should run equally as well.

Gary H.

 

Hate to go against the conventional wisdom, but my 750X has been running for years with pods and running very well, thank you very much. In my case it's unavoidable because the of the engine swap I did (750X motor in 650 Seca frame). Maybe it would run even better with an airbox but to say that it can't run smoothly with pods is just plain wrong.

But anyway, the point of my earlier post is that if you wrestle the airbox in, and put on the boots, and the bike still isn't running well because the carbs are dirty, you will be kicking yourself that you didn't pull the carbs and clean them when it was easy (yes, it is quite a bit more work to remove and reinstall the carbs when the airbox is on). That's all I'm sayin'. And it sounds like that's what you decided to do, so you should be fine.

 

Yeah, that'd be like tilting at windmills... too Quixotic!

 

Didn't see anything about checking valve clearances? It's a big job but very important to engine survival! Many a dead Maxim X due to a burnt valve and subsequent broken piston with head of valve stuck in it. Have my eye on one in town at a small shop. Bike looks like new with broken valve and piston. Owner has been looking for spare engine for YEARS.. I told him good luck. maybe I can get it cheap enough and use my good engine from my bike

 

Gotta see that bike x water cooled Ina 650 seca frame post a pic please

 

No one is trying to discredit you. Truth...the carbs were not engineered to use pods as a option. There are members, like yourself, that have had success running pods. No one said it's impossible, we say it's difficult to dial the carbs in because the air intake is so erratic it's difficult to jet for the correct amount of fuel to allow a stable/constant enough mix into each cylinder to make the hp needed.

Gary H.

 

Gary H.

 

Thank you all for the great ideas. How long does the valve clearance take? Keep in mind I haven't done much engine work in my life, but I do hands on work every day at my job. I consider myself decently handy. My bike is at 24700 miles.. so I really should do it soon.

Also, this is the weirdest thing. When I bought the bike, the guy told me the 4th cylinder warmed up a little slower than the others, and he was right. So, one day I decided to switch the spark plugs of cylinder 3 and 4. Started the bike, and the now the 3rd cylinder warmed up slower. I thought for sure it was just a bad spark plug. Switched the spark plugs back, and the 4th cylinder warmed up slower once again. I replaced both of the spark plugs, because they were old and needed to be replaced, plus I wanted to see the color a new spark plug would turn to. Started the bike up, now the 3rd cylinder warms up slower again.. The bike idles smooth, with the exception you can hear it miss every now and then. I also noticed the 1st and 2nd cylinders both seem to warm up quicker than the 3rd and 4th. I'm starting to think its the coil, since the 3rd and 4th cylinder share a coil. Haven't tested it yet, and my multimeter is very crappy, but I hope its just a bad coil.

 

No they don't, actually. 1-4 share one coil; 2-3 share the other.

 

Yeah.. I literally just realized that when I looked a little closer at it. Shucks

 

#4 is the last bowl to receive fuel. Try turning the petcock to prime for 30 seconds prior to starting the bike to fill the bowls.

Gary H.

 

My petcock doesn't work, but their is a fuel shutoff valve which was added. I most likely won't be rebuilding the petcock any time soon, due to the fact the shutoff valve does work, just requires me to remember to shut it on and off. I am also cheap and lacking the time to do a rebuild soon.

That being said, I will try to open the valve for 30 seconds before I start the bike. My airbox is suppose to get here tomorrow, I most likely will be pulling the carbs and starter off today. I think I'm going to do my valve adjustment soon as well, do any of you have a suggestion for a feeler gauge that worked well for you? Also, does the camshaft have an arrow or anything on it to make sure the timing is correct?