Xj550 seca electrical

Hi guys, let me start off saying I'm new to the forum and to motorcycles. I got a good deal on a trade on an 81 xj550 seca - stocked, except for the handle bars, I believe. I've always wanted a bike but never wanted to pony up the cash for one.

OVERALL the bike is in good condition there's nothing major wrong with it (that I know of as of now) I've had the bike a few days, when I picked it up the PO went over it and showed me things, etc. It started up after a few tries and stayed running. It needs a choke cable, so I have to hold it by hand until it's warmed up.

I noticed while revving it (the night I got it home) that the lights get dimmer/brighter. Didn't know what that could be, figured maybe it was because the bike sat for a long time before the PO traded to me.

But now, a few days after its been home, I can't get it to start and stay running. It tries to start but doesn't seem to have enough juice to fully turn over. I pulled the battery and checked the charge, it needed it, so I charged it up and tried again. It started, ran for 3 seconds at 2k rpms with choke, then died and won't start again. Fuel was on prime ( I've read if the bike has been sitting to start it on prime and then switch to on once it's running, good or bad?)

I haven't taken the bike for a ride at all (not permitted/registered/insured yet). Not sure if that could be why, the battery isn't getting charged and just dying? Where should I go from here? I'm charging the battery again as I type this, I'll be going back out to try and start it again.

I also checked the fuses and they've been hard wired with electrical tape, and the battery connections are also just taped to the wires...so...yikes.





Like I said I'm totally new to motorcycles so bear with me.

 

Also, the side covers are just zip tied to the frame... not really sure on the original connection for these? The plates are kinda beat with chips and breaks along the edges...

 

Can't figure out if I can edit thsee posts so I'll keep posting with new info:

After the battery charged for the second time, I went out and started it up, took a bit of cranking but it finally turned over and stayed running (while I held the choke wide open). Stayed running after it was warmed.

I'm going to try it again tomorrow and see what happens. As far as the wiring situation goes, I guess I'll do the best I can. The only thing I've ever wired up is a sound system in some of my first cars, but sadly they looked just like this, electrical tape holding the connections, HA. I guess that's what youtube and Google is for now.

Any suggestions on fuse box situation?
I don't have a manual for the bike, but did a bit of research, just wondering if anyone can tell me the optimum oil to use, as she's pretty dry at the moment. Yikes. There's a lot more I'm finding out about the bike the more I check into things. I'm hoping the exhaust is stock and just painted black...but it may be an aftermarket in which case the carbs would hopefully have been tuned, I've never seen this model bike in person so not sure exactly what the factory exhaust looks like.

Don't flame me too hard, bike pros, I got this as a beginner bike and project. Hopefully I don't need to sink a ton of money into her

 

Well, if you want to keep those fuse holders you can just buy some butt connectors and connect the wires that way, or if you're willing to do some soldering you can get some heatshrink, solder the connections then cover them with heat shrink for insulation. OR you could buy an inline fuse block and put 1/4" spade connectors on the wires and plug them into an inline fuse box. There are a couple threads about swapping out fuse blocks if you check the DIY how-tos section

JASO MA certified, there is a member here named Kmoe with a super informative link in his signature, with any luck he'll comment here shortly, or if not I can dig it up for you.

EDIT: Found it. http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/choosing-the-correct-oil-for-a-wet-clutch-motorcycle.43702/

As for whether anything is stock, I know nothing about the seca's except they look so damn cooo.

 

Great, thank you for the info. I will be doing a lot more reading on previous threads as well.

I've never had a carburated vehicle before, what are some tell tale signs that the carbs needs to be tuned/synced? I believe the exhaust to be aftermarket, and I've read that with these bikes changing the air box to pods, and changing the exhaust causes issues and the carbs need to be rejetted and tuned.

If they were not changed, and the exhaust was, would it run like crap? I have no base line as to how the bike should sound or run, so I'm just trying to find out what to look for. As of today, just idling in my yard after I got it started it seemed to be idling fine, and revved fine, once I can actually go for a short ride in the neighborhood I'll be able to tell how it actually rides.

Thanks again for any help.

 

Well, You've got an old bike, and since you're the new owner you don't technically KNOW everything that's been done or not been done. So from a maintenance standpoint it would be a good idea to check your valve clearances which is awesomely easy on these bikes. Then look at your carbs, do they look brand new? If not they probably could use a cleaning/tuning. You'll also want to do some other safety oriented things like upgrading your brake lines, checking your rear brake pad to make sure it isn't starting to come apart and if you haven't already you should check out the information overload hour.

As for telling how they carbs are doing by the way the bike runs i'll let someone more experienced tell you that. I'm still a work in progress when it comes to carbs..

 

I'm no expert on the 550s, but your exhaust LOOKS to be aftermarket. Is it 4 into 1? I don't think Yamaha put those on XJs. As for symptoms that your carbs need a cleaning? Well, there's a lot of them, and many are exactly as you describe your bike. As for the fuse box, again, I'm no expert, but I would not trust the electric taped set up on yours... check this out for ideas:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/how-to-install-an-aftermarket-fuse-box.6350/
Also read this:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/in-the-church-of-clean.14692/
and this:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/
And just cuz you mentioned driving it to test it, you better check this first:
http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/safety-alert-drum-rear-brake-bike-owners-please-take-a-look.15874/
that should keep you busy for a minute or two!

 

cool wiring diagram for you
http://frankjohansson.com/stuff/xj550/XJ550ElectricalDiagram.html.
How old is the battery?


information over load a must read
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-information-overload-hour.27544/

as your rpm increases and decreases so does your voltage which might account for your light getting bright and dim with rpm change. as well as a failing battery
when your battery gets below 10 volts the bike will not start but starter will still spin strong it has to do with the tci unit
following from info over load hour
voltages
For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):

* approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
* 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts (all models except XJ700-X and XJ750-X)but for now lets work on your charging system


battery voltages after charge
100% Charged:
Using a syringe Hydrometer: 1.265
Using a Digital Voltmeter: 12.60 volts
Using a Floating-Ball Hydrometer: 4 balls floating

 

this link below is to xj4ever.com he is a supporting vendor the link has a lot of good reading links as well as all the parts you will need len is xj4ever his name in the forums is charcal if you start a conversation with him he will help you with parts.

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/forums/xj4ever-supporting-vendor.23/


yes that is an aftermarket exhaust

 

The exhaust and side covers are not stock. As XJ550H said, on these bikes, you need to maintain an engine speed over 2k rpm in order to keep the battery charged. You said you haven't ridden it so that would cause a drain on your battery. The lights getting brighter as the rpms go up is caused by the battery charging up. Until you ride the bike and not let it just idle, the battery will continue to need to be recharged. A battery that is getting weaker will also make the bike more difficult to even get started. These bikes need a fully charged battery to start easily as well as clean and properly adjusted carbs and proper valve clearances. I would clean the carbs and check that the valve clearances are in spec. Links for this were posted earlier by another member. You also need to visually check the rear brakes for delamination of the brake shoes. Check the date codes on the tires. If they are over 6 years old, they should be replaced. Visually inspect the tires for damage or cracking. You have a really nice looking bike. Good luck with it. You will love it.

 

Thanks guys this helps alot. I'll have to check the rear brake as mentioned. I don't want it to lock up on me. The PO said the brakes were new, the front brakes look good. And the tires are also new, thankfully I don't need to drop money on those. I'll read up on the valve clearances and cleaning the carbs.

And I also found out the exhaust wasn't factory last night while researching some more. Looks like they came with dual 2 into 1, mine has the 4 into 1. There's no brand or markings on it so I have no way of telling which exhaust it actually is. It's a bit rusty at the headers, doesn't seem too bad, I may remove it and get the surface rust off, repaint and then depending how it looks I may wrap it.

Thanks guys

 

More links!: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/airhead-valve-adjustment-with-pics.14827/

That's an awesome picture heavy write up on changing the valve shims. Just reading through it gives you a good idea on whats involved and how it's done.

 

Great read, Thanks a lot. Seems like a relatively easy job.

 

Hard wiring would eliminate the fuses. Twisting wires together and tapping them is called a bad connection. Imo eliminate future headaches and confusion...install a box, solder and shrink wrap them or use the waterproof butt connectors to make them solid connections. Make it correctly run, then go over all the scheduled maintenance to make it road worthy. Because the exhaust is aftermarket you'll need to remove the carbs to verify and record what jets are installed. It's a good looking bike. Hope this helps.

Gary H.

 

it looks like a mac look at the end of muffler there may be a name there . you can paint it with gas grill paint its high temp works well no sanding required . the stock exhaust is better discribed as 4 into collector box then out to 2 mufflers.
I see it still has the center stand make sure the po mounted the bracket an left side of bike(as you sit on it) it should be L shaped it keeps the centerstand from hitting the exhaust and also from coming up to far causing the chain to drag across the center stand

 

Ok so I'm attempting to remove and clean my carbs this evening, any tips? Looks like it will be a pain in the ass to remove, how does anyone wiggle that thing out of there, do I need to remove gas tank or air box?

I can't see them being able to come out without pushing the airbox back (if even possible)

I read a thread about removing and cleaning and it said to push the boots back into the airbox itself... gave it a quick try a minute ago and Im nervous about breaking a boot or the plastic rim of the airbox... Doesn't exactly go in easy, maybe I'm not understanding it correctly?

 

Since yours is a 550 and mine is a 650 there is probably a difference in space but what I do to take mine on and off (and i've done a lot of that lately..) is I remove the boots between carb and air box first, take out the two outside ones first then the inside, and for the inside I usually take a flat head screwdriver, slip it between the boot and the box then pop that end of the boot out and push them down and out of my way, then loose up the carb from the motor boots and you should be able to pull it back and wiggle it out of the boots then just pull it sideways from between the motor and box.

I'm sure one of the 550 guys will pop in soon to give you a better example though.

 

Thanks for quick reply, I can't get the boots off at all because there is no where for them to go, I can't pull them back off the carb to intake side because they're so close to the airbox. Reading the thread that says to push them back into the airbox makes sense, but they're not soft enough to just mash into a smaller hole, seeing that they have a lip on them to keep them OUT of that smaller hole lol. Could I heat them up to make them easy to bend?

 

Ahh, Mine were extremely soft and easy to manipulate - I also have sneaking suspicion that mine aren't stock. I've seen where some people boil their boots before the install to make things easier, so if you could heat them up then the same should work with pulling them out.

Also if you haven't already it is a bit easier with the tank and seat removed so you can see better and have a touch more room for manipulating. If you are planning on taking the motor boots off make sure to number them or snap some photos - it took me awhile to find the right sequence when I had to put mine back on. In fact, take as many pictures as you can through the whole process and your life will be easier.

Sorry I couldn't give more help on finesse, but I inherited my "Hulk Smash" parts removal skill from my dad .

 

Alright I got them all off, just having trouble disconnecting the hose. Pulling with everything I got to try and separate these. The connection to the carb itself is bad too, looks alot older than this hose, and seems weak at the connection with the spring clamp. From what I can see, the carbs looks pretty clean, the parts are moving freely, not gummed up. I'm probably wasting my time