Xj550 seca electrical

That's as far as I can seperate, pulling with all my might, without ripping the thinner hose. Argh

 

Cool. So two or 3 screws are totally stripped, so I wasted my time getting these out because now I can't even tear them down completely. They're pretty damn clean on the inside from what I can see, slides move easy, throttle moves, no stickiness to anything.

So I said F for now, the bike seemed to run good anyway. Was really just checking for ease of mind. But all I've done is piss myself off.

Now I'm trying to get them back on and I'm ready to turn green and bust out of my shirt and kick the bike over. I've never been so frustrated working on a vehicle.

I pushed the intake boots into the box, as instructed by a few different threads I've seen. I had to heat them with a hair dryer because they're so stiff. They're all pushed in. Slid the carbs back in easily, they're seated in the engine boots. But for the &*$#ING life of my I can't get the intake boots to pop back out. There is just NO room to work with. Tried blasting them with the hot air as best I could, but I still cannot get them to pop.

I think I'm going to throw a tarp over it and leave it for a while before I give myself a heart attack.

 

Finally got them back on after over an hour of finessing and cursing.

Good thing is I get to take them back off soon, when I feel like getting those stripped screws out...

Hopefully it's easier next time around now that the boots are stretched like a mother of triplets

 

"That's as far as I can seperate, pulling with all my might, without ripping the thinner hose. Argh

you will have to cut the larger hose off that brass connector to remove it

 

When you feel the need to kick the bike, just walk away and wait it out. Old machines can be frustrating to work on, but if you take it in baby-steps you'll get it all fixed without causing more problems. Stripped screw heads are a common problem. Get yourself an impact screwdriver and use that. There are two things working against you; corrosion, and the screwheads not being Phillips. A phillips driver will tear up the screwheads.

 

nevermind

 

Yes that's what I did. Took a break had a cold drink and got back at it later.

I'll for sure be breaking it all apart again sometime soon. Those stripped screws are still bugging me. I hate when I know something isn't right. I'll have to invest in a good impact driver. I just moved into my own place with my wife, don't have much of a tool collection yet.

I need to check the rear brake and see how it looks before riding it out of the neighborhood, but right now it seems to be running OK. I hear a small tick, hard to tell where it's coming from but it seems louder on the left side, opposite the exhaust. It starts up fine once the battery is charged, and doesn't die out on me. But we'll see for sure once I take her for a ride. Still need to get my permit and get her registered. Don't wanna risk getting pulled over by the fuzz and losing it or getting in even more trouble for no license/permit.

I'm itching to go for a ride though. I love the sound of this bike and really want to hear it at high rpm's.

 

Ok so today was the day to take her for a test ride around my neighborhood and I can't get her started.

She started before I took the carb out, I didn't even do a full break down of carbs because some of the screws were stripped so I just left them alone and reinstalled. All hoses are connected, everything is seated perfectly, etc.

I have to charge the battery every time I start it because I've never taken it for a ride yet so it doesn't get charged. So I hooked up the charger and let it charge. Turn the key, only and it's only reading 12. I started it before like this so I figured it'd work. Petcock to prime, choke, ignition. Crank and cranks and I get nothing.

How can It go from starting up fine on a full charged battery, to not starting at all over the course of a few days, with no changes to the bike at all?...

 

are you disconnecting the charger before checking voltage
you have to check your starting voltage. if you go below 10 volts it is not going to start.
you should get a trickle charge. it would keep you at full charge..

so is your battery discharging over night?

 

Yes I disconnect charger and it reads 12. When I hit brakes it drops to 10, then back to 12. I have a trickle charger I just don't leave it connected because I don't have a garage or anything, the bike is just in my yard under an overhang of roof and a tarp. Don't wanna leave my charger out, connected to an extension cord and such. It doesn't drain over night, usually takes 2 days. But it's been sitting since before I took the carbs out.

I don't know what to check now, its gotta be getting fuel, what would be stopping it now out of no where?

 

its the 10 volts that is stopping you. can you pull the battery and trickle charge someplace? its what you are going to need to do.
full charge is 12.6 with a dmm

 

What is the difference if the battery is in the bike or if I disconnect and get the same charge? It's been charged 100% for hours, according to the charger.

With the charge disconnected, it reads 12v on the bike.

Charger has an "engine start" feature as well, it doesn't start with that either.

I'll try disconnecting the battery and booking it back up after leaving it on the charger, even though it says it's full now anyway and see what that does.

The past 2 or 3 times I've started it was by this same process. Hook up charger for a bit to get it full, disconnect and vroom vroom starts right up.

 

I charged it today for about 4-6 hours while I was at work. Left the battery on the trickle charger at 2v, charger did it's job and charged it.

Try to start the bike again, and all I get is crank crank crank.

What could the reason be? As stated before, it started on a charged battery and ran fine before I pulled carbs, I didn't even take carbs apart due to stripped hardware (thanks PO), reinstall carbs and now it won't turn over.

Is it not getting fuel? I don't see how it could not be getting fuel at this point, but it's the only thing I can think of.

Literally just keeps cranking as long as I hold the button with no sign of engine starting.

Someone point me in the right direction here...

 

Crack each carb bowl drain plug then close it. Got fuel?

Gary H.

 

Ok I just went and tried it again, this time no choke.

I gave it throttle while hitting the button and she started coughing. Released ig ition, Hit the throttle once more, hit ignition and she started. She ran while I held throttle, if rpm wasn't 1.5k+ she dies.

After I did that and had her running I could smell gas terribly, I look down to my left and gas is leaking from the bottom of the airbox.....

There was no leaks before I took the carbs out.

Did I flood it while trying to start it so much the last few days? With prime, choke, etc?

It really poured out of there for a few seconds, I scrambled for some soak up material and the bike died. It continued to leak for a bit, then slowed to drips.

I turned the fuel off and started it back up to run it dry, I figured I'd have to remove carbs again seeing how it's leaking fuel, but after it ran, and then ran dry, I thought hey maybe I f*cked it up by having it on prime for a minute and choking while trying to start, then later blasting the throttle...so I turned fuel back on and let her run for a minute and there was no more fuel leaking. Just residual drips, not a constant flow like before.

Did I flood it/overfeed it, or is my petcock bad, leaky carbs?

 

It's not your petcock. If it was, dripping would not have stopped.

Your carbs are most likely not bad, just misadjusted.

Most likely you have floats set too high.

 

But why all of a sudden would the floats be the problem, when I bought the bike 2 weekend ago it ran fine when I could get it started (battery discharging problem due to not riding it). Since I've been using a battery tender it starts and runs.

I took carbs out a few days ago to give them a cleaning, or at least see if they needed it, but the PO had clearly taken them apart before because 3 screws are totally stripped. So I didn't even do anything other than a visual check of what I could, and the moving parts weren't getting stuck or anything. So I put them back in to finally take it for a test ride (It wasn't legal before) and now I had trouble starting, even with good battery, and then all of a sudden a fuel leaking problem?

How does just removing, then reinstalling carbs cause that?

 

what he said, but the floats might be stuck. give it a few raps with a screwdriver handle. your battery is shot, your going to take it around the block and it's going to stall then you're going to push it home. batteries are important.

 

OK I'll pick up a new battery and see what happens. I haven't seen any fuel leaking since the first incident, so not sure what that means.

Also when I have it running and shift into 1st it dies. It idles fine in neutral, and with clutch in, but as soon as I kick it in first it dies.

Should've just kept the kayak I traded for it, probably get more use out of that thing lol

 

Be sure to check you oil level to make sure you did not contaminate it with gas - may need an oil change now also. Floats will sometimes stick when carbs are first filled, but it usually points to a problem with the float needle valves that will likely need attention in the near future.

Sounds like the side stand is down, or the plunger is sticking when you raise the side stand. Check the side stand switch plunger and clean it up with contact cleaner if it is sticking.