Xj550 seca electrical

Get copper exhaust gaskets from Len and don't over torque them so as not to snap a header bolt.

Gary H.

 

I had originally put 1gallon in, but then I put another one in and it started running. But now will only run with choke about halfway, at about 1.2k rpm. Didn't have this problem before, once it would warm up I could shut off the choke and it would idle about 1.2k if I remember correctly. It dies as soon as I shut off the choke, unless I keep it going with revs.

 

I didn't torque enough to snap a bolt, but everything is definitely seated correctly. I just don't see how I could have a leak. The little shit gaskets that the PO used were the same as the ones I got, and there was only 1. And it didn't leak before I removed the exhaust to refinish it. But after I replace it, with new gasket it leaks. So I doubled them up and it still leaks. Stuff that I shouldn't be having issues with, are giving me real headaches.

 

If the fuel level is too low, it is not going to start or if it does, it will sputter and die. And, your clear filter might have a bubble, but gas should flow freely if the bowls are emptied.

Put it on prime and do a wet check of the carb fuel level while on the bike to verify you have sufficient fuel for the bike to start and run.

Not sure about the pipes and the exhaust leak, but just make sure any other mounts are loose and the pipes are somewhat floating when you tighten the nuts at the header. Any kind of bind here would not let the pipes seat all the way into the exhaust port.

 

try taking out the inline filter and put it on prime, gas should squirt out. put the filter back on the line but not to the carbs. gas still squirt? good now connect the line without the filter (somehow).
when the line is full of air, the air gets trapped by the filter, it can't go up. so the gas has to get past the air bubble and can't flow fast enough(you run out of gas with a full tank).
once the line is full pinch the lines and put the filter back(small bubbles will work themselves out)

 

loosen the exhaust pipes on the bottom and loosen the collars. now shake and wiggle the pipes as you tighten the collars untill they don't move anymore and only tighten them to 7.4 ft/lbs (not very tight). you'll hate yourself if you snap a stud.
are those pipes marked somehow to identify 1,2,3,4 ?

 

Can we see a pic of the exhaust gasket? You shouldn't need two gaskets to get a seal. And 7.4 ft/lbs is about 1/2 a turn past hand snug. Like polock stated...not very tight at all.

Gary H.

 

They are not marked, but why would the have to be? The exhaust can only go on one way?

 

Ill take a pic when I get home, but I didn't think I needed two, then I read that sometimes two are needed with aftermarket exhausts. So I tried it. I had them snug, then a little tighter, then I was getting leaks so I tightened a bit more. Not worried about snapping a stud cuz theyre not THAT tight. I suppose anything can happen tho, clearly.

The exhaust pipes are matched to correct holes because I didn't seperate them, I removed the exhaust as one unit, Im not even sure of I can seperate these pipes, I think it's a mac 4-1 exhaust.

 

I'll take the exhaust off tomorrow and retry it, although I don't know of anything in the process I could change.

Remove header nuts, remove the mount (only one because it's aftermarket exhaust), replaced gaskets, match up pipes/collars with the studs, hold them close to the head and hand turn the nuts snug then with the wrench, then the mount (by the passenger peg).

Anything I should change in this process?

 

Oh ! Mac 4/1, first take that big heavy muffler off the pipes. put the pipes in the head. get in a position where you can raise and lower the collector end with your foot and feel the pipes in the head, you should be able to tell when the pipe sets square in the head. snug up the nuts and try shaking each pipe left/right. hold the collector that height. if the collector end is sagging down the collars can't pull the pipes square into the head, you have to hold it with your foot.
now do the 7.4 ft/lbs and put the muffler on so it's not pushing the collector up or down.
support the collector as you wiggle the muffler. if you jam the pipes around too much you'll smash the gaskets.

 

I'll take them apart and reinstall this way tomorrow. Thanks.

Also, not sure how I just noticed this today, my front forks/shocks seem really soft. I can hold the front brake and push forward and they drop significantly. I feel like if i were riding it and used the front brake hard it would probably bottom out...They're THAT soft. What should I be checking and or rebuilding on these, are they adjustable in anyway and maybe they're set too soft? Or are they just too old, bike has 19k miles.

 

At 19,000 miles the forks are due for a change of oil at the very least.
By soft, what are you comparing to? Damper rod forks will exibit more dive than a cartridge fork.

 

Not that I've been on many bikes, but my dad's custom iron horse, harley, concourse, and friends dirt bikes (they're pretty soft, like easy to push down) but the others were a lot stiffer than this. I know they're all bigger bikes, but still feels a bit too soft. I can really push the front end down.

 

Alright I have another question:

What would cause the bike to stall after riding it for a mile or less?

I got the bike to stay running, turned out I just needed more gas in the tank. It was on run, but I had only about 1 gal in the tank. I added another gallon and it stayed running with the petcock on run/on.

Started her up this afternoon, warmed up, choke off all the way, idles about 1.1-1.2k not sure if that's ideal but it doesn't stall at idle.

Went down the road a bit, took a cut through street to turn around and it died just after the turn. Started it back up and took off, just before turning onto my street she died again. Couldn't get her started so I pushed her until I got about 3 houses away and tried push starting or whatever it's called, dumped in 2nd and it started and I got in my driveway before she died again.

Not sure what the issue could be? I went for a quick ride the other day, just to make sure it would stay running and it was fine. I put 1.5miles on it after I put 2 gallons in, so I'm assuming it's getting enough fuel to keep the petcock on run?

I didn't think of putting it on reserve when it died because I new I had gas.

Could it be that simple? Or a bad alternator? Voltage seemed fine it was a hair under 12 when I parked, and I could get it started even after it died the first time.

 

thats how the choke works it gets the motor started and as it warms up it increases in rpm and you staet to feather it back to off. i go about 130 miles before switching to reserve which is about 2.4 gallons with 1 gallon in the tank you will have to run on reserve. if it seems to run out of gas check the petcock filter make sure it is clean. this was a problem another poster had dirty petcock filter. try setting your bolts to proper torque. instead as tight as tits.
tighten each nut a few turns at a time moving from pipe to pipe until you get them all toqured down. torque equaly not seperatly

1.2k rpm is the spec for idle.

stalling at 1 mile could be the gas vent is plugged link on how to clean and rebuild cap
http://www.xj4ever.com/gas cap.pdf

test your voltage when you get the bike running at 2k rpm should be 14 volts
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/
For all XJ-series models, the maximum available charging output VOLTAGE should be as follows (all values are approximate):
* approximately 500-2000 rpms: 1.8 volts gradually increasing to 14.2 volts
* 2000+ rpms: 14.2 volts up to about 14.8 volts, with a maximum of 14.8 volts


if you want a factory service manual start a conversation with me , free, it will be on cd,
you need one!

 

Ok it's official I need a new tank. The pin holes that I sealed with jb weld are fine, but apparently there's more than just those few that I found. Because the bottomof the left side has paint bubbling and I peeled one bubble back and its wet with fuel.

And also I think my petcock is bad, (possibly stuck float, not sure how to tell which caused it?) even tho I checked the gaskets when I had it apart. Because the bike has been sitting for 5-6 days and I have fuel/oil mix on the bottom of the carbs, that metal tray thats just below the drain screws, it's like pooled up on there, and also I felt the bottom of the air box seal and it's wet with the same mixture.

I just changed the oil too, so that's super cool. Now I have to do it again. Another $25-30 down the shit shoot before I even ride it.


So if anyone sees a tank for sale please let me know, I only found 1 on ebay and it's junk.

 

Is the petcock stock? If the petcock has failed it's more likely the diaphragm is not sealing allowing fuel to flow when it shouldn't. If you remove the airbox boots and turn the petcock to prime the leaking fuel from the carb throat will tell you which carb valve does not seal.

Gary H.

 

And, you can test the petcock with a Mity-Vac...

1. Disconnect the fuel line from the petcock and run a fuel line from its nipple to a jar or somesuch
2. Disconnect the vacuum line from the petcock and hook up a line from the Mity-Vac
3. When set to On or Reserve, applying a bit of vacuum with the Mity-Vac should start fuel flowing, and releasing the vacuum should stop it pretty quickly. You should not see any fuel getting sucked into the vacuum line.
(4.) You can actually just suck on a test vacuum line by mouth if you don't have a Mity-Vac... but, if you don't have a Mity-Vac, this a good excuse to go buy one... they're not expensive and many auto parts stores stock them... and it will keep you from tasting gasoline if you have a leak on the vacuum side!

 

I'll check the petcock tomorrow, probably end up ordering a rebuild kit, if I can't find a tank soon. Only way to salvage this would be resealing it with por15 or similar, but it was already used before and it currently peeling in large chunks. So I don't really feel like going that route.

Does anyone know of any other make/model tanks that fit? I don't want a maxim tank, not the right look for my bike.

Old honda cb tanks look similar but not sure of the mounting situation they have.

Has anyone used a different tank, I can't find anything other vids on youtube and they don't say what tanks were used.

Thanks in advance everyone