Start button just clicks

So -- when I press the start button all I get is a click... battery is great and and the bike starts right up and runs great from a bump start - don't even need to get it moving that much, just a walking pace really.

I'm thinking bad solenoids? Thoughts appreciated.

 

short the two solenoid terminals with a hefty screwdriver, --watch out for sparks, and make sure the bike is in neutral beforehand.
does the engine then turn over?
if it does'nt then its probably a dead battery, or dirty battery connections or faulty starter .
if it does then its the solenoid
stu

 

Check your starter solenoid first. Not sure if the 650 (your bike I presume given the tag) has a starter cut out but if you can bump start it I guess it's working fine. And you say the battery is fine too. Often if you give them a tap they may start working again. If you put your hand on it when you hit the starter motor you should feel it click. If it doesn't replace it. They are cheap as on eBay so buy one (or several like I did) and eliminate that before you do anything else. If your good with a multi meter you should be able to determine if it is the solenoid pretty quickly without having to short the connections on the solenoid and the possible problems that can cause. Did it just happen or were having issues starting previously (like press button several times before action, noises from the starter, weak starter motor turn over?).

 

If you have been using the run/off switch on your right handle bar controls instead
of your key switch there may be carbon build up on the brass contacts inside the right
hand control body that would normally be activated by the starter button. If you can
turn the key on and the bike starts by crossing the two poles of the solenoid with a
screw driver there is nothing wrong with either the solenoid or the starter motor. take
the right hand control body apart and clean all the brass contacts. Use a scotch bright
or some other non metalic abrasive, because steel wool or emory filings will get into the works and
short stuff out. clean it, blow it out good, put it back together and try the button again
that might take care of it.

 

I had a similar issue with one of my XJ900's and the problem was the negative lead to the starter motor. The seal and bolt coming off the starter were loose, making intermittent contact. You may want to check your connections, as it worked for me.

 

My first thought is battery, regardless of whether its new or not, or whether you THINK it's good or not.

Put a volt meter on the battery and see what the standing voltage is, then see what the voltage drops to when you try to start it......

 

I followed the steps here : http://xj650.blogspot.com/2009/03/how-to-test-your-starter-circuit.html

Got to step 7 and I'm not seeing any voltage coming from the blue wire ( although it's blue not sky-blue) this points to the neutral switch right but the nuetral light works fine on the display - wouldn't this also be a problem if the neutral switch was bad --- FYI I actually thought this switch was bypassed because I was able to start the bike in gear before even with the clutch out ( yeah I know the risks - my choice).

 

step 7 is asking for a continuity test not a voltage test
did you bypass the clutch safety switch? this would allow you to start bike in gear with clutch out
7. Hook your continuity tester between the battery's ground terminal and the Sky Blue wire coming from the bike's wiring harness for the starter circuit cut-off relay (relay pigtail unplugged). It should read an open state while the transmission is in gear. When you shift into neutral, the tester should then read a closed state. If there's no change, inspect, clean, or replace the neutral switch and its ground and retest. If it checks out, proceed to the next step.

 

I'm not sure if XJs are similar,but, on my Valkyrie the power for the headlight goes through the starter button. If the kill switch is used with the
key on, a small arc happens which can deposit enough carbon on the button contact over time to prevent starting. Of course, check the battery first,
but, guck happens inside the right and left control housings. It's easy to check after the battery. Also the salt air on the coast used to foul up
my motorcycle controls as a kid growing up near Boston.

 

Damn it - you're right - I do have continuity here so I'll move on.

I don't think it's the control switch cos the starter-relay clicks in when i press the button just the same as it does it I connect it direct to the battery.

 

Seems like it might be a bad starter-relay - how do I bypass this to test it.

 

if the relay/solenoid is clicking when you press the start button, then bridge the large terminals with a screwdriver, as I stated in the first reply .
if the engine then spins, problem will lie with the solenoid---simples,
stu

 

from
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

BY-PASSING SWITCHES AND RELAYS:
Starting/Ignition Cut-Off/Neutral Safety relay:
- unplug the safety relay which disables the whole bloody mess but DO NOT leave it that way, fix it right!

as far as testing

Starting/Ignition Cut-Off/Neutral Safety relay:
- due to variations in design and the need for visual reference, you should check your service manual for the proper testing procedures. There are at least three checks that are necessary to perform: a relay coil resistance check, and a relay coil function (powered vs. unpowered) check, and a diode function test.
from haynes manual

 

if you disconnect the wire from the solinoid that goes to the starter you can hook your meter to that bolt and test for voltage when you press the starter button

 

it isn't the same. The headlight runs on a separate circuit that is independent from the starter switch.

 

Guys you can read this to see what I've done http://xj650.blogspot.com/2009/03/how-to-test-your-starter-circuit.html

I have tried to short across the solenoids and that didn't work

I get voltage on the red wire going into the relay and open-continuity on the wires coming from the neutral switch. What's odd is that I don't have two red/white wires coming to this relay - comparing my connection block to the wiring diagram one of the wires that supposed to be red/white is actually black -- the wire that supposed to be light-blue is dark blue and the yellow wire looks white to me. So maybe someone's f***ed with this before.

I tried to bypass this by doing what it says in the manual -- and a fuse blew out. So this got me thinking.

I have to come clean that my digital MM broke so I've been using an analogue one -- I was seeing the voltage shoot right past 10 on that scale so I assume it was at least 12. Just tested the battery again with the MM on the 0-50 scale and I'm seeing like 30v --- how can this be?

 

your voltage regulator may have failed

the alternator is ac and must go through the diodes in the VR to convert to dc.
sine wave for ac is 15 plus to 15 minus total 30 volt potential swing.

 

ok - thanks - so what do I do? Is it safe to ride? Where's the VR and is it easy to replace or test?

 

there should be 4 wires to the relay .
blue wire goes to the neutral switch, then to ground and a black yellow wire to the clutch switch then to side stand relay to the tci
then two red/white/yellow wires . one goes to the starter switch the other goes to the soleinoid the blue wire from the solenoid switch goes to the push button for the starter when pushed connects to ground.
if you connect the 2 red wires together you should be able to use the starter button.

you say you have different colors so lets find the correct ones
continuity check from red wire on solinoid to wires on connector untill you find this wire.
pull the ignition fuse clip mm lead to output side of fuse push in starter button test for continuity to 3 remaining leads
the one with continuity is the other "red" wire .
if you connect these 2 wires it will bypass (with relay removed) the relay circuit.
this will make the starter button activate the solenoid.

 

did you zero out the analog meter? its that screw at the bottom of the needle or a thumb wheel

its the finned thing under the side cover. above the relay you working on
if it is bad it just unplugs and is replaced you will need a dmm to test it.
do you have a manual? it tells how

haynes free download covers 650 and 750
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/837861/Yamaha-Xj750.html

we are talking about an xj650h correct?