Progress report on "Satan" the XJ650 Seca

So i thought id update everyone on my bike.

Ive found that the spacer in the rear wheel assembly is missing, which is why the rear locks when tightened. Sourcing a replacment currently.

Ordered a new neutral switch and washer. $30 of genuine yamaha goodness. If im lucky itll also be where my oil leak is comming from. Fingers crossed!

Lastly, getting the beast running - the damned evil hitachi carbs.
Im still trying to twiddle with these monsters.
Will be rechecking the float height soon and then try and dial it in enough to get her run/idling on all four. Then ill battle with the syncing etc.

If that dosent work ill have to sell her or bite the bullet and buy a set of keihins...

Hopefully this unhappy start to motorcycling will soon be overcome.

Stay tuned!

 

If you follow the "Church of Clean" those carbs will be fine.

Gary H.

 

so it runs but not on all four cylinders?
did you check for spark at the plugs for each cylinder ?
could be bad plug or you need to trim the plug wire back 3/8 " at the cap

 

I thought I had cleaned my fuel system (tanks/carbs etc..) Ok and had the thing running. BUT then it stopped starting (eh?) Reluctantly I pulled the carbs
and found there was still crud in the bowls (even though I had an in-line filter) and the slides/needles (which I didn't take apart before) were sticking/sluggish . So gave 'em another going over checking the choke, pilot circuits etc.. and lo and behold an almost instant start. I have since pulled the tank again and cleaned with a handful of wood-screws and diesel followed by a rinse and phosphoric acid. It will go back on with a new inline filter once I have softened the carb rubbers again with wintergreen - oh the joys..

Cheers

J

 

er, "wintergreen" ?
stu

 

Rocs and a100man, im pretty sure the carbs are good. I think its just setup and syncing etc at this point. Not sure. Mabey ill replace the float needles to be safe too.

Xj550h, plugs n leads are all ok. Think the cylinders are getting too much go-juice. Just need to dial stuff in.

 

Methyl salicylate aka wintergreen oil (a component of Deep Heat curiously). simmer your rubbers in a 50:1 diluted mix for 30-40 mins or until 'done'. Softens the rubbers considerably, however I think the effect is temporary ( a few weeks).

 

oh

 

smells good too

 

And you can make flavored candy with the leftovers.

 

We used to use it back in the day to refresh rubber platens in various types of computer printers. Not sure how easy it is to find anymore. I remember one day back in 1994 when the local drugstore was discontinuing it, and all the guys in the repair shop where I worked stocked up at the clearance price.

 

Hey all. Anyone know the length, inside and outside diamaters of the rear wheel spacer that sits in the final drive when you put the rear wheel on?
Need to search old school style for one at a wreckers.. .

 

Never mind the spacer/collar specs. Ordered a new one from yamaha $30 inc freight from interstate.

Now just gotta dort those damn carbies. Ugh.

 

Spacer/collar fitted. Rear wheel issue fixed!!!
Next up this weekend is pulling the exhaust and collector, drain oil and replace the faulty neutral switch. Fingers crossed!

 

Before you put a new neutral switch in, pull the old one, clean it, and test it. Most of the time they are just inoperative because of built up sludge.

 

Hi k-moe. Cant even get a tool in to get the old sucker out!

Am head scratching this one at the moment...

 

You might have to drop the exhaust.

Gary H.

 

You have to drop the exhaust (which it sounds like you've already done), and cut about a 1/4 diameter of your least-favorite socket away. As you've found, the frame is in the perfect place to just barely prevent clear access.

 

Yup exhausts and collector are off, headers still on but not in the way.
Oil is out.

So where do i cut my socket, anyone got a pic to guide me please?

 

makes you want to just ground the wire ....
you cut away about a 1/4 of the side wall of a 1/4" drive socket or about two flats of the bolt
i would start mid way on the flat and cut 1/2 flat a full flat and a half flat for contact points

you may have to grind side flat to make socket D shaped instaed of round do not cut into the drive square





chacal sells one this is his discription
HCP15718 Aftermarket neutral position switch REMOVAL SOCKET. On many models, it's almost a physical impossibility to remove the neutral switch from the crankcase "well" without removing the exhaust system or removing the engine from the frame.....the left lower frame tube conspires with the exhaust system to make it unbelievably difficult to access the switch. This special "open side" socket is the proper size to squirm through those restricted spaces and make it possible to remove and re-install the position switch without going through a tremendous amount of effort. Standard 1/4" drive socket should be used with a 3" extension bar, or, it's even easier to use when attached to the HCP13516 flexible shaft driver listed below.
$ 11.95