My 1980 XJ650 Project - Not Easy

What jay said...Headlight is latched on when starter spins, off with key turn.

Gary H.

 

I'm sure that I might be thinking of a different model when I was thinking that.

 

Ok, so here's what I found... Multimetered out the fuse connectors for the headlight and getting over 12V. (However fuse holder clips broke in two pieces upon inspection of the glass fuse). Even when the fuse was installed and before I broke it apart I wasn't getting anything (zero volts) directly at the headlight connection. There's no power to the headlight connection inside the lamp housing.

What now? Besides getting a new fuse box. There's something else stopping the flow to the headlight.

 

You are going to want to upgrade the fuse block. The original one has the cheapest crappy fuse clips ever manufactured on the planet.
xj4ever has new fuse blocks with extention wire kits that makes the job easy and professional looking. Plus the push in blade style fuses are available at any auto parts stores.

 

+1 on upgrading to a new fuse box. The kit from Len (XJ4Ever) is nice. It's an upgrade that will eliminate some problems, present and future.

 

Yep. Brittle fuse clips, the most common electrical problem in bikes of the era. Either upgrade as mentioned, or replace with new clips.

 

But I still should get power to the light even if the fuse wires are jumped/connected w a small wire correct? What should I check next?

 

Technically you should but bypassing fuses is risky, if you have a short your harness is goin bye bye.
Make a jumper wire up with a fuse in it so if something goes wrong you will be covered.
Obviously the common terminal on the headlight goes to ground (check ohms to ground on the frame) and your power has to come through the high/low beam switch. Clip one lead from your meter on common and pick back through your harness to the switch. See if the switch is bad or is the problem before the switch.

 

Thanks guys! MN-Maxims, I will do as you suggested and see if I can find anything today. Silly question, does motor have to be running when testing, or since I'm using Ohm setting, just test with engine off and Key on? Still confused about the relay and when it opens/closes and actually sends power to the light. I don't want to be testing incorrectly and wasting my time or chasing my tail.

 

You will only have power to the headlight once the motor has started or at least spun fast enough to send enough voltage to latch the relay. You need to check for 12 volts at the fuseblock, then at the relay. If the diagram above is correct, it should be the R/Y wire. If you have 12 volts there with the key on and not running, then start it and see if you have 12 volts at the L/B wire coming off the relay. If that's good, then you have an issue upstream between the relay and headlight.

Do the gauge lights light up with key on or after starting?

 

No gauge lights are not coming on w the key on or motor started.

 

Check the bulbs.

 

Is this the flasher canceling unit/relay? Is this the headlight relay?

 

Think this will help. See image

 

This might even help more.

 

http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/


Top pic is your self canceling unit.
Bottom pic is the starter safety relay.
The headlight relay is under the left side-cover, below the voltage regulator/rectifier.

 

So I replaced the fuse box today thanks to Len @ XJ4ever and the headlight works now! I had also located the headlight relay and cleaned the connections and plugged it back in. My money is on the faulty fuse box as the culprit for the light not coming on.

I also stopped at the MVA today and picked up my historic tags and registration. After I got the plates and new fuse box installed, and headlight came on, I was able to take the bike for its maiden voyage. Man what a rush!!! I was loving every moment, and boy does this bike rev smoothly to 7k. I was nervous to rev it beyond that in 5th gear, but probably because I was over 80 mph and didn't want to get pulled over.

The one thing I did notice is the front brake feels spongy and I rebuilt the caliper, installed new brake lines, and a new master cylinder. I guess I should try to bled it some more. Any tips are most appreciated.

Thanks again for all the help gurus!!

 

Good deal! Spongey brakes is a symptom of air in the lines. Not the only one but a good/easy place to start. This forum is full of bleeding tips and techniques.

 

I found a post by k-moe describing the brake bleeding technique. He mentioned to tighten the bleeder screw BEFORE the lever contacts the hand grip. Oops! I was pulling in the brake lever, cracking bleeder valve, lever would pull in against the hand grip, tighten bleeder screw, and then release lever.

Once I changed my technique to: Gently squeeze brake lever, loosen bleeder screw, bump brake lever back a few inches while coming to within 1 1/2" of the grip, tighten bleeder screw, and release lever - the brakes firmed up instantly. It took me 2 mins total to finish them off. Took a ride and man what a difference. I can stop quickly and with one finger slow up when coming to a sharp turn.

Now I just need to install my mirrors, get some fresh gas in the tank, and go for a significantly longer ride later this afternoon.

 

Here she is! Mirrors installed, synched again, and ready for a long ride this afternoon.

I realize now the oil level is too high! Not sure why as I was just under the high mark at the beginning of the week. Anyway to syphon oil out to correct level without draining entire system?Thoughts?

To Do:
- Blast and paint header pipes, if I can get the exhaust pipe off! Geez!
- Repair rip in seat
- Get correct length throttle cable from Len.
- Cam Chain adjustment?

 

I'm just dealing with this type of situation now. The consensus was that the oil level doesn't get higher on it's own. It's most likely a combination of your petcock leaking and your needle valves leaking or fuel levels being set too high allowing fuel to get into your crankcase thereby raising your oil level. My petcock doesn't leak a drop but apparently while my biking is running, excess fuel is getting into the crankcase. I'm in the process of rebuilding my carbs now to remedy the situation. Before that though, make sure you are checking your oil level while the bike is on the centerstand and on level ground. Drain some oil if it's still too high and smell it. If there's any fuel smell at all, don't run the bike. It was hard for me to tell if my oil smelled like fuel but I finally came to the conclusion that the oil level wasn't changing on its own and the only thing that can make the oil level go up is fuel getting into the crankcase.

 

Just got back from a 65 mile ride through the countryside. We did a pre run before our ride on Sunday morning w some blokes from church. Love the mountains, pastures, waterfalls, twisties, and all out scenery of Western MD! The bike performed flawlessly and kept up effortlessly with my friend's Dynaglide. I'm still grinning from ear to ear. I've never had an XJ running like it truly should.

Gonna sleep well tonight!

 

I think i just put too much oil in. Doesn't smell like gas in crankcase but I will do a fuel level test to see if i have any stuck needles. I totally rebuilt the carbs with new float needles and needle valves. They are the metal kind without the little rubber tips so hopefully i won't have the sticking issue again.

Is there are way to syphon oil out of the crankcase? I couldn't get a small hose down in there far enough.

 

I think it's tough to get a tube down far enough to siphon oil out. I simply opened the drain plug just enough to control the flow and let a small amount out.

 

Yu can snake fuel line down far enough

 

Why didn't I think of that. Just crack the plug loose enough for oil to slowly come out. Genius!

 

I couldn't get a fuel line/small syphon hose down there far enough. Is there a trick to it?