Signals not flashing; horn not working when stopped

I just did that. when I disconnected the headlight, the lights are blinking after 2000RPM. So it's not the headlight. is it possible that my signal relay has too much resistance? I tested it last night and the lights blink at 14V after 2000RPM.

 

it is 3.5 ohms for starter relay. what did you get?

I will go test my signal light relay

 

open and clean contacts at this point you should be cleaning any connector you remove
electrical spray and dielectric grease.
have you cleaned the grounds, at motor and frame from battery as well as the battery connection?
clean ground at coils, and ground at pickup coils.

start cleaning the bulb sockets and connectors.

what voltage are you getting at the battery at idle and when lights come on ?
check volts at flasher connectors. and horn.

 

this is the test for flasher relay. I have a 94 ohm reading on my flasher problem is that it is a coil in parrell with a 150 ohm resistor
you have to isolate the contacts to get a true reading of the coil the coil is heavey wire so it is doubtful it has failed
more likely the resistor or cap has failed (timing circuit)
coil is 246 ohms you have to slide an insulator between the contacts
resistor is 150 ohms, capacitor is 1200uf electrolitic


just to be sure the flasher is 2x the size of the other relays

 

^ What he said (about deoxidizing the wiring connectors). You likely have plenty of voltage; it's just not all getting to where it's needed. Think of corrosion as being like holes in a garden hose.

 

have you ohmed out the alternator? what were your results?
what are your battery voltages at idle and 2k rpm?
did you clean all of the grounds as suggested, including ground under cover where pick up ccoils are?
do you have glass fuses or have you upgraded to blades?

can you answer in detail please it would help a lot.

 

I saw this picture on my Haynes manual as well. But wondering, do I turn ON bike, disconnect the started relay, use voltmeter:

1) connect 1 tester lead to BR, (brown?) cable and the other to ground
2) connect 1 tester lead to Br/wh, (brown/white?) cable and the other to ground
3) where is this?
4) What is Ch and or Dg?

 

yes tur on key
Br is brown
Br/wh is brown with white stripe
ground can be battery or frame bare metal, test ground connection back to battery positive looking for 12 volts
Ch is chocolet
Dg is dark green

you should leave flasher connected and check wire at back of connector

 

Alternator:
* field coil windings: 5.7ohms
* stator (3 white wires): 0.8, 0.9, 0.9 ohms

Battery Voltages:
OFF: 13.12 (thought just pulled out of charger)
ON: 11.79 to 12.5 (the voltage is dropping... so I kept measuring until it dropped to the lowest) - also note that motorcycle started instantly so I don't have starter issues

1,000RPM (idle): signal lights ON, no flashing, horn works @ 13.3v
1,500 RPM: signal lights ON, flashing, horn works @ 14.36v - 13.96v
2,000 RPM: signals flashing, horn works @ 14.6v


I noticed these characteristics:
13.3v - lights ON, no flash
13.8v - lights ON, SLOW flashing
140-14.3 - lights ON, flashing

I cleaned the grounds with a dremel tool brush on the ground cover as you suggested

Still on glass fuses.

 

what voltage do you have after the glass fuse?
go buy a fuse holder put clips on the ends and see if your results change, there are better ones than the one pictured.
clip it across your signal fuse where the wires are crimped to the clips

 

you measurements are out of spec this could be your problem check them again.
Alternator:
* field coil windings: 5.7ohms
* stator (3 white wires): 0.8, 0.9, 0.9 ohms


Checking Alternator Stators:

Measure the resistance across each pair (white1 to white2, white1 to white3, and white2 to white3) of the three white wires (white1, white2, and white3) at the connector; the specifications should be:
0.46 ohms +/- 10% for all XJ650, all XJ700, all XJ750, and XJ900RK models.

Checking Alternator Rotors:
Measure the resistance across the two lead wires (usually brown and green) at the connector; the specifications should be:.
4.0 ohms +/- 10% for all XJ650, all XJ700, all XJ750, XJ900RK, and XJ1100 models.
Note that worn, dirty, or damaged alternator brushes can affect these readings, as can "dirty" copper commutator rings on the rotor face (where the brushes contact the rotor):

 

[QUOTE="do you have glass fuses or have you upgraded to blades?[/QUOTE]

My motorcycle shop said that my fusebox was 'melting' into the plastic and recommended I change it. Should I upgrade to 'blade fuses' and new fusebox?

 

test

 

My motorcycle shop said stator is on the way out. Now if both are out of spec, which is the one I should change first? I'm thinking stator (is this the wound copper thing where you can take an eraser and clean it) might be easier to change first no?

The rotor is a pain in the ass to remove and requires two people.

 

I would revisit brushes for length and check the springs, make sure brushes float properly would be easier to replace brushes then re test ohms

both at same time put in gear and foot on the brake ( tighten the adjuster first). one man operation.

yes up grade you can go blade and box or inline fuse holders as I pictured. both will cost the same, your choice.
I would do this first

 

do not take tis the wrong way but the info you just shared with us would have been VERY HELPFUL if you stated it in the first post of this thread.

melting fuse box.
bad charging system parts....

you are getting volts but no amps
recheck brushes. can you borrow another meter to redo the test.

does your headlight dim way out? battery keep going dead?
alternator should have affected all lights

I still would do fuse box first.

 

Thanks! I went downstairs just now and noticed that my horn is working but the lights do not flash when the motorcycle is in ON position (but engine not started).

 

This is a pic of my fusebox. don't see any 'melting' but i'll change it.

Also for Chacel to see when replacing with ATC fusebox.

 

that is not a stock fuse holder. but good news is you should be able to just plug in the new box.
try changing the signal fuse or swap it with headlight fuse see if the problem moves with the fuse.

or swap the wires for head light to signal fuse see if the problem moves with the wires

or plug a 10 amp blade fuse into the quick disconnects of your signal wires

 

If you've checked everything else above, I had problems with turn signals not flashing at idle. They did flash when rpms were above idle. Problem was two fold:

1) weak battery
2) 23w instead of 27w bulbs in the turn signal (this fixed the problem for good)