Valve clearance - exhaust side

I am going through my valve clearances. I was able to get the clearances for all valves. I was also able to take out the shims on the intake side, once I had a magnetic pick-up tool. However, I can't seem to get the shims out of the exhaust side. I've tried the two on the left and both will come out of the bucket, but not out from under the cam. Anyone have any tricks to try for this? I'm using the zip-tie method, by the way.

Thanks.

 

I found the secret. I had to run to Lowes to return something for my wife. I checked out the other magnetic pick-up tool. It's about half the size of the one my wife picked up. Worked like a charm.

 

I hope that you have a shim in each bucket before you rotate the engine. Your verbage makes it sound like you might not be doing that.

 

Yes, I have only done one bucket at a time, replacing the shim before rotating to the next one. Thanks for pointing it out though, as I would hate to make that mistake. I'm curious what happens when a shim is left out, but not curious enough to find out for myself.

I spoke too soon regarding the success of getting out shims. I have two that I still can't seem to get out, the second and fourth on the exhaust side. I can't get a feeler gauge between the shim and the cam when I have the shim up. I have tried with the cam in multiple positions. I'm calling it a day and will try it again either tomorrow or Monday night. I've come too far to button it up without knowing the each shim. I currently have, going from left to right, .127, .102, .102, and .102 on the exhaust. Shims are 275, ?, 275, and ?. Intake has .127, .102, .063, and .063. Shims on the intake are 285, 290, 290, and 295. So I know I need to get the clearances adjusted and not put it off. Oh, and I have to try cutting a slot in one of the screws from the lower plate that snapped. I'll be putting PB Blaster on it for a couple days to give it a better chance of coming out.

 

Walking away and giving yourself time is always a good choice.

 

Light, are you saying that (#1) you can't get the feeler gauge in there when attempting to check clearance? Or (#2) that even when the zip tie is holding the valve open there is still no clearance that you can't get a feeler gauge in there?

If it is #1, having no clearance is possible. You'll have to pull that shim out, and put a thinner one in that will give clearance (to get a feeler in there) which will then give you the opportunity to check the gap and figure out what exactly needs to be in there.

If it is #2, it seems odd that that you can't get a feeler in there. Make sure you have the cam lobe pointing completely away from the shim. The shims are in there on an angle so "away" is not exactly straight up . The cam lobe tip needs to be at a 90 degree rotation from the surface of the shim.



*diagrams are not to scale, names have been changed to protect the innocent and all shims and cam lobes have done their own stunts...

 

use the 12 gauge insulated solid wire could be your wireties are not thick enough to give the clearance to remove shims.
or double up on the ties.
I had similar problems with wire ties went to wire it went smoothly
and as photo showes 90 degrees is best

 

Nuch, great diagram. I am able to get the feeler gauge in when checking clearances, just not when trying to get the shims out. Perhaps I don't have it quite at 90 degrees.

XJ550H, I will try the wire method (today if I can get away with it - wife and kids are big on doing family things on Father's Day, and I am not complaining about that). I have plenty of wire from home improvement projects. The clearances are significantly off, so something has to work.

 

I also have had good luck with a plastic coated wire hanger.

 

nothing like a day of fixing XJ's and checking valve shims together to bring a family closer together
Happy Fathers day

 

I did that, the bucket will scrape some material on the edge of the cam lobe. Not what you want to do. I ended up using a different head and cams so it wasn't too big a deal.

 

X2, I had the same issue. Going to 12 ga wire worked great.

 

bend your ziptie like this and give it a try

 

It is done. I changed to the wire and there was an amazing amount of space. I also ensured the cam was as pictured in Nuch's graphic. Thanks for the help folks. I really appreciate it. Everything is back together and running again. Now I'll get the right shims and complete the final steps in the initial maintenance since purchasing the bike last year.

 

Be sure to keep a record of your curent clearances and which shims are where. That will make the next adjustment go much faster.

 

Yes., Sir. I have all work written in a notebook so I can go back and see when things are done. I will probably also record it on a spreadsheet, just in case I ever lose the notebook.

 

LOL!

I often take a peek at the forum before I head out to work... Good laugh to start the day, so thank you!

 

XJ550H has a point. I have some great one on one time with my 14 year old fixing the bike. Same thing with my 23 year old when he stops over to give me a hand.

 

I'm sure this is a dumb question. I'm assuming that the shim is the adjustment to the valve clearance. Where do we get shims? Thanks

 

From either Len Chacal at xj4ever, or contact hogfiddles for shim pool info

 

What is a shim pool

 

An exchange system where you get the shims that you need, and the pool gets the shims that you no-longer need, all for the cost of postage.

 

Very cool!
Thank you

 

Does the pool send the tool or what is the best place to purchase the valve adjustment tool? Thanks

 

I used the magnet on a stick method to take out the shims. It made it really easy. Just make sure you get one with a small magnet. The first one I purchased was too big. The shim pool is an excellent option if they have the sizes you need.

 

Many (most?) people here use the zip tie/wire method, as opposed to using the tool. XJ4Ever sells the tool at the link on the top right of every page.

 

The bucket tool can be purchase from XJ4Ever or you can use wire/ zip tie down the spark plug hole.

 

bought the tool
tried modifying the tool to work on all the valves
gave up
used zip ties and a magnet
lived happily ever after

 

I have 2 tools both are now paper weights . need mods to work correctly I go wire/ziptie method


I use 12 ga. house wire, with zip ties you need thick wide ones or double them up
you will also need a small flat blade screw driver to fit bucket slot.
and a teleascoping magnet or hemostats to remove shims
I also picked up plastic shims from xj4ever. used as place holders when waiting for my shims

the shims are the second thing I do when I bring home another XJ,
while waiting for correct shims I can do other systems checks and wiring connector cleaning as well as inventory the bike.

 

Thank you!

 

So when using the shim pool I need to leave the wire in until I get the shims in the mail?

 

So when using the shim pool I will need to leave the wire in until I get the shims in the mail?

 

No. You cannot move the cams with a shim removed without damaging the shim bucket or cam. The procdure is to measure clearances, remove one shim to find its value, then reinstall that shim before moving on. With care and attention to how the valve train works it is possible to measure clearance on one valve while removing/replacing a shim from another.

Leaving the wire in a valve when turning the engine far enough to extract another valve will result in a piston contacting the open valve(s) and bending or breaking the valve(s).

I suggest that you re-read AIRHEAD VALVE ADJUSTMENT with Pics before proceeding with clearance checks.

 

Take a look at the diagram I drew for myself when I first went under the valve cover. I found it easier to first check ALL clearances, and write them down (the numbers in decimal form). I'm a bit OCD! Can't move on until I finish each task... heh... Then I went around again and pulled each shim to get the number off of them. (the numbers [250 through 275] in the rectangles). Make sure you take note of the exact placement of where you are getting your info from. When you get through all 8 and you have your info, you can do the math and figure out what you need. There's several strings in this forum discussing how you do that.

 

I was just thinking about this and Nuch posted! I was going to say, you only need to go through the valves twice and by writing clearances down, you should come up with a list of shims you need and shims you'll have left over. I sent both lists to the shim pool (Hogfiddles) and got back the shims I needed, and systematically went through the valves, first replacing shims I where I already had the new thickness in hand. As I removed the old shims, I would have thicknesses required for the remainder of the valves. Clean and send the left over shims back and you're good to go!

 

Very nice guys, that clears it up, sorry I misunderstood.
Thank you!

 

Don't be sorry. You learned today.

 

Is that the G point location on our XJs ?

 

Are we still talking about motorcycles?

 

Mine did run better after I touched it there.

 

K-moe's drawing sidetracked me for a moment, lol !

 

Yup....that's the spot

 

Now I know the reasons why I keep coming back here. Only one is the XJ knowledge base. I can only imagine what it would be like if we could all be in the same room together with a good German draft on tap. Party somewhere in the middle of the US?

 

Wouldn't that be cool, especially standing outside the pub, draft in hand, looking at all the XJ's lined up!

 

What time should we meet up? I'm thirsty!

 

Gella's Diner and LB. Brewing. Hays, Kansas. Noon Tomorrow. Start riding.

 

I thought it's called "CNYCC"

 

Uh... a little more notice would be nice... heh... Maybe over the summer? How many teachers are on here? Summer off to ride across country? Tempting by the way... A mere 22.5 hours away from me (http://www.lbbrewing.com) and Holy Crap if that is not DEAD CENTER of the US. But you knew that already didn't you k-moe...

Indeed. I've already attended that one... and you can put me on the list for 2017!

 

Count on it!