got a new bike

Yes. You can read my mind.
This was only the immediate list to get her off the operating table.
Tires, chain and brake pads still look good but I am going to have everything changed by a shop. They have to take the wheels off anyway, might as well have them do everything while at it. Plus get my inspection sticker.
I think this will be in two weeks or so, depending on how fast I get the bike together and the parts delivered.

 

Trying to do the tune today. I haven't found the air fuel mixture screws yet, but according to the manual they are located on the under side of the carbs facing the engine. How in the world am I supposed to reach them if I have to? Might be a lot of testing, pulling carbs, adjusting, putting them back on etc.

To sync, I believe I need to remove the screws at bottom of the pic (located between carbs and engine) and screw in those adapters that came with sync tool. Manual is not very clear and keeps talking about them being on the carbs.

Keep you posted

 

The pilot screws are on the diaphram side of the carb (essentially in the same place as on your 550).
You're corret about where the adapters for the manometer go.

 

Bike is synced now, radiator back on.
I noticed that I broke the timing window plug when removing it back then. I managed to punch a hole in there which I only noticed today.
Now leaking a bit of oil (well, it actually shoots out in drops). Not a big deal but have to wait for new piece. In the meantime, I will put tank back on and seat. New tires will be here tomorrow. I bought Continental Road Attack 2 Hyper Sport. Never had this brand before but reviews are good.

 

Thanks Moe. Yes, I found them. They are still sealed and I left them that way. At least for now.
The color tune showed a bit lean, but not too crazy. Was still blue, but a bit on the light side.
I will ride it for now (once it is complete) and check again after 100/200 miles.

 

I'll be a bit lean. The late 80's bikes were built well-into the dark age of emissions fudgery. Leanness at idle was the only way to meet the U.S. standard.

Since you're not pulling the blanking caps to get at the pilot screws, it might not be a bad idea to run some Seafaom in the first tank or two of gas.

 

Cool

 

A shame the plug was broken, I might have been able to take her for a short first ride today.
But it's not too bad, still waiting for my new throttle anyway (and a new clutch MC and the rod). Better be safe and hook up the deceleration cable as well.

 

Had a day off today. Cleaned garage first and then got started on bike.
Cooling system is filled, brakes bled. I have her together except front. Wanted to wait until I get my parts.
Even though she is pretty much ready, I am waiting to get the plug. I don't need tomhave oil shooting out while riding. Besides, not sure if it's that's good for the engine anyway.

Oh btw, I had the parts supplier run my vin, it's a 1988 FZR 750 RU. Well, at least the frame is. Engine was a 1987 FZR 1000 CA model.

Here a pic as she sits right now...




I threw on one fairing to see what else is missing. This one I ordered because it had other things attached to it that I need. All in all it was cheaper. I have the same for both sides. I actually like the color scheme.


I also got lucky and found my license plate for her. Had been looking for it for a while now. It's a shame someone chopped the fender. But all good for now. I will restore her slowly and bit by bit.

 

Another one

 

Just remembered: checked the throttle and it does have two ports for acceleration and deceleration cable. However, I can't get the deceleration cable through the housing in order to hook it up. There is a hole, but it's small and might just be for drainage.
I thought because of the difference of frame and carbs, I might have the incorrect right hand control, but the parts number is the same for both models. So not sure how to proceed there.

 

Pics on Internet of throttle look a bit different than what I have. I guess I'll wait until my parts come in tomorrow and see what's going on.
I did take bike up and down alley once. Feels very powerful. Ride was a bit choppy but I did go slow and it was not fully warmed up. It probably just needs a nice long ride to clear up a bit.
My rear brake grips a bit too well and locks up rear wheel easily. And the front dives a bit too much and easily for my liking. I turned in the adjusters all the way to stiffen it a bit. I may need to test and look into it again if it's still soft.
The tail blinkers don't flash, possible that I need to hook up the front again to make them work. I believe the same happened on my MV.

 

Tail blinker is what I thought. I hooked up the front just for fun and it's working.
New throttle was not part of today's package, but my new clutch MC came. It's already on bike and working.
I filled the hole in the plug with jb weld as quick fix. Raining today but hope I can take bike out tomorrow for a quick test ride around the block.
There is also a tiny oil leak at bottom of engine. There were a few drops over night. Nothing to worry about right now as its minimal but it will be on my list.

 

An hour of sanding and 6 thin coats of paint.
Still drying

 

I'll wet sand in a few days and add another layer or two. It's OK from 10 feet but I can do a little better.
I know i should have gone up with sandpaper while prepping but didn't have anything other than 120. I'll make up for it with more layers and wet sanding in between.

Side covers are next but ran out of time.

 

​

 

With my new right hand switch coming this week, I will finally be able to hook up the deceleration cable and take the bike for a ride.
In the meantime, I started reading about rejetting - something I most likely have to do because of the aftermarket exhaust.

Is this article a good write up? http://www.bikebandit.com/blog/post/how-to-rejet-your-motorcycles-carburetor

Basically, I will have to find out how the bike is running first and take it from there, correct? I will check for behavior of the bike and look at spark plug discoloration? Any other ways of finding out what / if it is needed? This is a new to me topic.

 

The only other way to find out what's happening inthe combustion chamber is to use a Colortune plug, or have it run on a dynomometer.

 

Ok, that's what I thought, thanks.
Having looked at the combustion before, should I assume that all is well with exhaust? Remember, it was a bit on the lean side which appears to be normal.
Getting access to the spark plugs is really involved...
Anyway, I will ride first and see how she behaves.

 

Some parts came today: correct right side handlebar control switch and new wheel bearings.

Looks like I have to remove tank and airbox to access and unplug the old switch. Thankfully it is a quick task.
Nose fairing looks good and is ready for install. I am taking Friday off from work and will continue to work on the bike. I am hoping to have the throttle cables sorted by then. This would give me time to test ride it, get my inspection, drop off the bike for tire change and paint the remaining fairings.
Tire change is not a top priority though. I need to degrease the bottom of the bike first and don't want to ruin my new tires.

 

yes, keep your priorities straight

 

Priority one: get it done.
Priority two: post pics/videos.

I can't wait to see how it turns out. That four is gonna roar!

 

Yes, can't wait either. I said it before: while Major Pita is nice, it is this bike that gets me excited. I mean just look at her... And no worries, there will be pics.

I still need to figure out why my rear brake is locking up the wheel so easily after I changed the brake fluid. When i bought the bike, i took it around the block and didn't notice. So this must be new.

 

Ok, I just finished the switch swap (say this one fast 5 times in a row). The connector was different so I just swapped the housing itself. I also replaced the stuck starter button with the one that came with the replacement switch. Everything still works.
I wish there was a little bit more play in the throttle though. I adjusted the cables but still didn't get where I would like to have it.
I will check again next time the tank comes off.
This was good progress which means I can focus on cosmetics tomorrow. Clean and paint.

 

is there a adjuster in the middle of the cable? if there is and all else fails you can carefully cut/grind the lock nut off of that center adjuster and gain a little more slack. then use loc-tite on it

 

You mean lengthwise? No, haven't seen one.
The only adjusters are at the switch housing and at the carburetor.
I will check again tomorrow after the first ride.
Throttle closes fully, but there should still be some play if I remember the manual correctly. Deceleration cable is more lose, so I know it's not that.
Maybe I just missed something this morning and need to consult the manual. But happy this is (almost) sorted. Didn't want to ride with only throttle attched.

 

Double check the cable routing, and the length of the cable andthe length of the sheath. The correct label does not a correct cable make.

 

Will do.
Before I swapped the switch, it was fine and I had the play specified in the manual. So it is a bit weird. I'll unhook the deceleration cable just to be sure. Must be something stupid that I am missing.

 

And don't you hate this "well, it was fine before" kind of thing?

 

Took everything apart again and it ended up being the deceleration cable. When I tightened the adjuster on the carburetor yesterday, it pulled the cable which I didn't notice. I now have about 3-4 mm play which is within specs. Yay.
Thanks for all the support and ideas where to look next time.

Now off to putting the nose fairing back on, need to fill up tires and go for a ride in a few hours.

 

When you get anxious to ride mistakes are made. I made a clutch grenade once and put on brake calipers finger tight once. Go over everything one more time
Shit happens

 

Yeah, I know. Thanks for the advice.

Nose is on..




Lots of sanding today to prep for paint. Should have time to do that as well.
Tank won't happen today but will follow very soon

 

Took her for a spin: Gees, Louise. This bike has some serious power. I mean I am used to it, but this feels different. Maybe because it is not a modern bike where you hardly hear the engine and everything is smooth. Kind of reminded me of a retarded pit bull that is happy to be outside chasing butterflies and you have absolutely no clue what he decides to do next: kill someone or just be a happy pup.

Bike ran fine, had some small back fires in first gear.

The radiator, which was repaired by PO, leaks a tiny bit. I put sealant on it and see if that helps temporarily. I'll replace it.
I also had smoke from oil on exhaust. Could be left overs from valve job, not sure. I need to clean everything and check for leaks. Didn't see anything running down engine.

Third and last: pushing the bike back onto the table, I heard a weird noise. Took me a bit to figure out that the chain now has more slack. I checked before and it was within specs, now it's way over. I'll adjust and see what happens at next test run.

Bike shifts but took me a bit to get neutral in. I will receive my clutch rod today, let's see if that makes a difference.

 

I put in the new clutch rod and figured out why it was bent. The sprocket cover was hitting that rod. Not sure why. It was also broken. I grinder off a bit and now it moves freely.

Chain:
After putting the rear wheel up and turning it, the chain goes from tight to slack.
Reading up on this topic, it sounds like it's time for a new chain. People also recommend to replace sprockets. Wheel is aligned correctly by looking at the markings on the swingarm.

 

now would be the time to try this
http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml
those marks aren't necessarily right

 

But would misaligned wheel cause a chain slack ranging from tight to 1.25 inches slack within half a wheel turn?

And chain doesn't look too groovy anymore, I'll get a new one anyway.

 

no, that chain sat in one position for a long time and rusted differently around the sprockets

 

Yeah.
I am going to order new chain and sprockets. I will have to drop off the bike for tire change anyway, so it's the perfect time to get this done.
This bike I am going to keep anyway

 

Yeah, reading your posts, I figured this'd be a keeper. I enjoyed the comparison to a retarded pit bull. Very appropriate for the Golden Era of Superbike. All the power on earth thanx to the horsepower wars, none of the silly computer interference.

 

My last bike had 166 HP but I didn't feel like it wanted to take off. This one does. Well, no riding until the chain is sorted (already ordered including a new set of sprockets) But it's ok. This gives me time to clean and double check things. Have to slowly get used to it and build trust in the bike that nothing falls off. so double checking everything is good.
I also need to take care of Major Pita and finally get her the oil and oil filter change.

Tomorrow, I will put on the newly painted parts and post pics: Front fender and side covers. Haven't started the side fairings yet. Maybe I do the tank, depending on how it looks with all the other white parts.

 

Kmoe, here is the cause. I don't know how, but the inside was pretty beat up. Two pieces just fell out, the rest was pressed against the rod. No wonder it was messed up. I must take a lot of force to bend it like it was.

 

That is seriously effed up!! I cannot fathom causing that sort of damage without any external sign, nor can I understand the reasoning behind just leaving it go unrepaired.

 

The only thing I found was a little bolt sitting at the bottom. But it didn't look damaged. I thought maybe it fell in there and messed stuff up.

Those rods are very strong. Here a pic of how messed up it was. Looks worse in person. Going to rebuild the clutch slave. The pressure on it must have been high

 

Placed order for new (used) radiator, sprocket cover and clutch slave (found a cheap one).
Going to replace the oil seal around that rod as well. Looks very oily. I have a leak somewhere, just a few drops a day. If I'm lucky it's that. Easy and cheap fix.
Looks like this bike will take a bit longer to fix up. It really is a shame how some people just not take care of their bikes. Not safe either.

 

Well to be fair, it wasn't exactly safe when new

 

Well, i guess you could consider any vehicle with gallons of fuel sitting just two inches above a hot engine as not safe

 

Being born comes with a 100% chance of dying, yet it remains a popular option...

 

Looks like one of the sprocket retaining bolts backed out and ripped the casing

 

Hm, I didn't notice anything unusual about the sprocket but will double check. Good point.
Or the rod was bent right from the beginning and caused the damage over time.

 

Isn't it more of a side-effect of another popular option?